I decided to put a roll bar in my Blazer. It could add some support and protection. I also like the looks of it. I didnt want to go with a full cage due to weight, cost and the space they can eat up. I want my roll bar to be bolt in. Its tied underneith with 5 x 5 plates that are 1/4" thick. Im using 5 x 5 plate on top. The back bars are 4 x 4 and 1/4" as well. The bolts are GRADE 8 with nylock nuts and washers top and bottom.
I have $120bux in materials, this includes the 1 3/4" .134walled DOM, Plates & hardware.
Labor was $120bux for 6- 7hours worth of work for welding, cutting, fitting etc etc. I did this at a friends shop and helped out. He only charged $20bux an hour. The welds are all TIG welded to cut down on splatter.
I havent done the final bolt up. But I like the looks of it. Its not in the way or really takes up any extra space. Still good access for rear passengers. When/if I ever take the topper off. Itll really be nice having it in there.
Here is my Blazer in the shop getting ready for the cage
Here are the bars. For the $120bux for the bars, they prebent the main hoop and cut the plates for me and "fish mouth" cut the straight bars.
Inital setting of the main hoop
Tacking things in place
PUlled main hoop to weld on the feet (base)
Working on the down bars
Welding on the rear feet (base) to the down bars
Welding the down bar to the main hoop
Finally found some time to paint the roll bar.
Here is the paint im using
Here is the tarp and bars prepped for paint, wipped it down with acetone to get it clean
Shot of the welds
I actually hated to paint it. the bars looked so good. oh well. It was bare raw steel and had already started to get surface rust.
Here it is painted. I removed the tarp to gain better access around the bases
And there you have it.
A couple things Im sure someone will bring up;
1) why didnt you remove the topper?
Yes, it wouldve made life easier. the roll bar couldve been welded outside the truck and I couldve painted it outside the truck. A few reasons why I didnt pull the topper. Its 300lbs and I had no real way of getting it off. I didnt have anywhere to store it and didnt want it leave it off for security purposes. I couldnt leave my truck at the shop as we were doing this after hours on our time. I also am not sure if the topper has ever been off. Meaning the seals are "set" and presently it doesnt leak, why tempt fate? It was more of a challenge, but over all was an easier decision to just leave it on.
2) what kind of finish does that paint leave?
THe pics dont do it any favors. THe paint has a "thick" textured look to it. The best way to describe it is like this. Have you ever half ass cleaned a piece of metal and it still had grease, or something on it and when you went to paint it, it wrinkled up. This is like that type of texture. It doesnt look bad, but not super smooth either. But I knew it would have some texture to it and wasnt worried about it. I can always put roll bar padding over it. LoL.
3) Couldnt you just buy one, instead of making one?
No, there presently arent any manufactors that make roll bars for the K5 Blazer. Smittybuilt use to long ago. But it was really thick and heavy and was considered more show than anything.
4) Your first pic shows you painting the bars?
Yes, I thought id jump ahead and prepaint most of the bars to save time later on. This actually COST me time. The paint wasnt dry and we had to handle the bars ALOT and even cut the main hoop down to fit and the down bars. We ended up using Acetone and completely stripping the paint off prior to doing anything with them. Hind site.
5) In the "shot of the welds" pic, there looks like plates under the base?
Yes, there are 2, 1/4" plates welded to the main plate. The way the floor is in the Blazer, its stepped down, towards the outside, so there was no way to have one plate that would fit flush. I didnt want to stack washers to make it even, so we cut some plates and built up the area that needed. The roll bar now fits in this space like a pocket and wont move or shift.
So there you have it.
I have to give big credit to the Fab and Welding Skills of Steve White.
Thanks for stopping by.