my 2000 Z71 has run absolutely perfect for 105k miles, never a burp or stutter, but I just had a local shop do it's first tune-up (Yeah, I was 5k late) and now it idles low, kinda stutters, and kinda halts on acceleration. I would just take it back, but other things happened with this place that make me not trust them, so I want an idea what it could be before I just trust them when they tell me the opto-smorgafyer it outa wack and it will cost me $2000.

Any ideas?

Defective rotor?

i think the 2000 still used the standard small block chevy which would still be a distributor motor.  the 2001 or 2002+ trucks use the LS series motors.  if its stuttering and all that they may have put the plug wires on in the wrong order... oops.  check simple things first: firing order, cap, rotor, plugs, etc.  the simplest explination is USUALLY the right one.  good luck.

Cool, thanks for the ideas guys, I'll look at all of those.

and yes, none of the check engine lights are on.

Quoted: i think the 2000 still used the standard small block chevy which would still be a distributor motor.  the 2001 or 2002+ trucks use the LS series motors.  if its stuttering and all that they may have put the plug wires on in the wrong order... oops.  check simple things first: firing order, cap, rotor, plugs, etc.  the simplest explination is USUALLY the right one.  good luck.

The LS series was in full use in GM pickups by 2000, 1999 was the transition year.

You have any idea what all they did in the tune up? If they replaced the O2 sensor it may be the culprit.

In the mean time make sure all your plug wires are secure, spark plugs are tight, the air filter/breather assembly is together properly and all harnesses are in place.

Quoted: Quoted: i think the 2000 still used the standard small block chevy which would still be a distributor motor.  the 2001 or 2002+ trucks use the LS series motors.  if its stuttering and all that they may have put the plug wires on in the wrong order... oops.  check simple things first: firing order, cap, rotor, plugs, etc.  the simplest explination is USUALLY the right one.  good luck. The LS series was in full use in GM pickups by 2000, 1999 was the transition year. You have any idea what all they did in the tune up? If they replaced the O2 sensor it may be the culprit. In the mean time make sure all your plug wires are secure, spark plugs are tight, the air filter/breather assembly is together properly and all harnesses are in place.

hmm, thts the one thing i always confused

Can you tell us exactly what they did (is it on the bill)?  If the idle is under 500rpm and sputtering, you might want to start looking for a vacume leak.  

Quoted: Can you tell us exactly what they did (is it on the bill)?  If the idle is under 500rpm and sputtering, you might want to start be looking for a vacume leak.

Just the standard 100k service. I think it is just a fluid swap (trannie included) new uber plugs, air filter, etc.

My first thought was vacume leak.

I haven't been able to check the stuff you guys already mentioned yet, I'm driving my car right now and my truck is parked at my new house while I'm still in the rentel. I get over there tonight.

Well if they ran a top end cleaner through the motor they would have most likley used the booster line.  So give the brake booster vacume connection a check first.  Also, check the connections at the Mass Air Flow and the thorttle body, tighten up the clamps alittle.  If it was major issue it should have started throwing an SES by now.  And as mentioned, check the plugs and wires.  I know NAPA wires made for LSX motors don't always snap into the coil packs all the way.

Mudbug,
I've got the same truck with more miles (151K) and a somewhat similar problem.  My stutter usually occurred at low RPM when the engine was in overdrive, usually between 1300 and 1700 RPM.  Stutter, surge, miss, whatever, no engine codes.  After checking the usual things, I changed the plug wires.  Stutter gone, ran great again . . . for ten minutes, then engine code for MAP/ MAF, stutter back.  Changed MAP, stutter gone . . . for three weeks, engine code and stutter back.  Changed MAP again and MAF . . . stutter gone for 10 miles, engine code and stutter back again.  Guess what I'm trying to say is check the plug wires and make sure they didn't leave one loose and if you've still got the originals (like I did), spend the $50 and change 'em.  That seemed to take care of the first part of my problem.  Don't mean to hijack your thread, but if anybody reading has got any ideas for me, I'd appreciate it.  Thanks.