Soak the holes around the wheel studs and hub with penetrating fluid and let it soak over night. In the morning take a decent size hammer and wack the rotor between the wheel studs all the way around. I use an old retaining pin out of a differential as a punch so I can get close to the studs without hitting them.
If that doesn't work..then try hitting it from behind. Hit, spin the rotor a bit..hit, spin the rotor.
Once you get it off take some emery cloth, sand paper and clean the hub really good where it goes through the rotor.

No..don't worry about those washers. They are used to hold the rotor on during the assembly process at the plant.
As far as penetrating fluid..I have used "release" and it works very well. Better then WD40 anyway.
Driving around won't help because the rotor / hub fit is a very tight tolerance so the rotor won't move around. That's why your having such a bitch of a job getting it off!

Quoted: with a rubber mallet

You might as well hit the wall if you're using a rubber mallet. use a real machine hammer (ball peen) or a carpenter's hammer if that's all you have. A rubber mallet is just going to bounce off.

The thought of paying someone $150.00 to do this seemingly simple job motivates me,that and not having $150.00 to begin with..lol

I've saved a ton of money over the years doing my own brakes,oil changes,tune ups,etc.
I should caution you though..when it comes to brakes..if you aren't sure what your doing..get it done at a shop..brakes aren't something to screw around with.
Another tip for ya. Before you take the caliper off, take a small pry bar or big screw driver and insert it between the inside brake pad and rotor and gently pry the pad away from the rotor. What you're doing is forcing the piston back into the caliper. Pry it back until the metal plate on the pad is touching the caliper.
Removing the cap on your master cylinder makes it easier as it gives the air  somewhere to go when the brake fluid is forced back into the master cylinder. Just don't forget to put the cap back on tight!!!
If you don't do that..you won't get the caliper and new pads back on. It's much easier to do when the caliper is still bolted to the spindle if you don't have the specialty tool for doing this.
You can use a c-clamp to do it after but it's a pain because you're limited in movement due to the rubber flex line.

I'd soak it good and let it sit all night. In the morning..get the biggest hammer you can and first do the between the studs thing then hit it from the back.
I've used a maul before. Don't wind up like a major league batter (you don't want to start breaking the rotor and have chunks of it flying at you.)  but good hits. The added mass of a maul sometimes is the ticket.
I would say your last alternative is to heat the rotor around the hub. The only problem with that is..you run the chance of boiling the grease out of your wheel bearing and or ruining the seals.

Are ya having fun yet?

You're welcome.
Did ya clean up the hub with emery cloth where the rotor meets it?

for the next time!

Quoted: On a related note...I am getting really uneven pad wear.The inside pad of the passenger side was almost non-existent,while the outside pad had 50% wear left.The driver side pads were worn pretty evenly.Pretty amazing considering these were stock pads and I have 90K miles.Pads last a long time if ya know how to drive Any suggestions besides replacing the whole friggin thing ?

Sounds like the caliper on the passengers side isn't sliding like it's suppose to. The caliper slides on the bolts that fasten it to the spindle when you apply the brakes which pulls the outside pad against the rotor. I should have suggested to you to make sure the bolts are nice and clean and smooth before you put it back together.

Clean them up really good. A wire wheel on a bench grinder works very good. Any good quality grease will work good. Just don't go crazy with it and end up having it splash on the pads or rotor..greased up brake pads don't work real well.