So a year or more ago ARF recommended I replace the fried 5.2l 318 engine in my 2000 Durango with a salvage or similar.

Picked up a craigslist used 150k mile engine yesterday.  As I am mechanically inclined and rather good at replacing parts, I'm no mechanic.  What would you recommend for me to check, adjust, look out for, replace, update, traps, tricks?

It has a few oil leaks I can fix with a new gasket set.  I've got a compression test gauge, figured I'd spin it with a Milwaukee hole hawg and see if it indicates anything.  If so, maybe new rings, bearings and valve job unless the crank journals, rods and pistons are hosed where I'd do a full rebuild.  If compression is good, would you pull the bearing caps just to be sure?

I'm on a tight budget but I need dependability.  By tight I mean it's buy food or buy parts, I'm not getting both.  The cheaper I can do this the better.  I'm seeing more than 10 different brands of engine kits from Rockauto, NAPA, Amazon and some randoms on the web.  Level of kit varies of course but full engine kits range between $600 to $2500 for non performance goodies.   Any suggestion on good value for kit brand or source?  

I'll be happy if I can get away with new gaskets, rings and maybe lap the valves.

I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to simply buy a rebuilt engine from jasper or some such.  

Parts can seem inexpensive.  The machine work, and tools to do the measurements and assembly are not.  

Replace motor mounts and the hard to reach hoses while the engine is out.

Oil pump

318's never die.
Oil pump is probably the biggest problem.

If you're going to rebuild it just get a 360 (then stroke it to 408 ).

Thanks for the replies!


I had that thought too but Jasper gets up over $3k.  I'm frugal, at that price I'd find a newer vehicle.  If I can keep under $1000 and it lasts for the next 5 years I'll be happy.

I've rebuilt engines before, outside of machine tools I have the rest.  It's just been a few decades and I'm rusty on the "definitely do this" and the things specific to this engine like the plenum plate needing upgraded.

Motor mounts and hoses, check.





That was the original plan, but wanted to check with the ARFpros.  I'd hate to stuff it in there and then find I could have replaced the well known faulty oil galley plug behind the motor mount over the axle and under the exhaust manifold.      Would not be good for the blood pressure.  



Noted.  I guess if this engine looks to need machine work I'll slap it back together and resell it.  If I can locate a long block for close to or under 1k I might pursue that rather than a similar price on salvage.  Any suggestions on reputable yet affordable long block sellers?


Oil pump, Thanks.

You know, I've got a 5.9 in a 95 grand cherokee, will it fit?    What else do I need for the swap?  This may be the back up plan..

You need to look into Mopar LA engines.

The older 318/360 (& 273/340) are flat tappet motors.
The 5.2/5.9 Magnum are hydraulic roller motors.

They're all the same on the outside.
They're all basically the same on the inside.

Intake plenum gasket/plate - the gasket fails and oil consumption goes through the roof.

I have a '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8 that needs to be fixed......

your 95 will bolt in, But the electrical connectors for injectors and such changed in 98.
you would have to pull all your stuff from the 2000 to get it to run.
not sure on the computer except I know the 2 are different, odb I vs odb2.

so you cannot cross parts over to make it run.

It probably would be cheaper to find a wrecked 2000 durango that ran fine and just pull the whole motor and harness as 1 thing, just swap computers and go.

all of the magnum engines are identical for bolting in. just as I said be aware of the usual 96 and up being odbII, and 98 and up have different connectors.

Plenum gasket. Stock timing chain is usually stretched quite a bit. Stock heads are pretty much always cracked, usually doesn't hurt anything though.


Take a look at the cam when you have the intake manifold off.



This freeze plug in the bellhousing was the instigating factor for pulling mine.

How does a California emission engine vary?  The body is from California, the used engine from the midwest.



On the list.  Thanks!


Looks like I'll skip the Jeep/Durango swap.  Thanks for the info.


That cam looks healthy.    I'll double check timing chain and cam.

Thanks everyone.