Quote History Quoted:
No no and no. Why no? for the following reasons.
1. The ONLY reason these trucks are marginally hot right now is because of Fast & Loud and Gas Monkey garage. Richard Rawlings is a smart guy and figured out that he has the ability now to drive market trend. Buy a bunch of these crap trucks, blow a rediculous amount of money on them, get them MASSIVE TV coverage and every moron in town will line up and give him stupid money for it at auction. Then....... all of the car dealers who don't know shit start buying these like they discovered an unknown oil well and boom you have a market bubble.
Stay away STAY FAR AWAY.
2. if you must hotrod an old truck, rust drives the price. If there's any rust PASS ON IT. as body work blows out any ability to have the proper investment in one of these
3. do NOT pay more than $4000-6000 (NO MATTER WHAT) for a 60s or 70's pick up truck.
Failure to heed the above will result in you losing your ass, like a LOT.
You want to buy a fun truck that right now is under priced and will only increase in value? Buy one of these
1. early 90's 454SS Chevy 1500
2. GMC Typhoon or Chevy Syclone
3. Ford Lightning (I'm not a Ford guy but I'm talking about the more rounded body that I think started in 95)
View Quote
What???
First off - Screw Gas Monkey on those idiots.
$4-6K for a 60's Chevy truck? No rust?
You can't find a rust free (unrestored) 60's Chevy truck in CA or NM, much less anywhere else.
The classic Chevy trucks have been popular long before RR and Gas Monkey. Now if you are referring to the "Shop Truck" / "Patina" BS- then maybe I can see that a bit, but he wasn't the first (shocker).
The Chevy trucks are easy to upgrade to comfy daily driver status. I have a '65 I'll be building once the kid gets done with college. Power brakes / suspension / steering etc will many times interchange from the newer (70's and 80's) GM trucks to the older models. Bolt on easy - most times.
I helped with a resto on one a few years ago - he liked driving it so much it moved to DD / Year Round status.
'66 C series shortbed (actually started life as a cheaper / easier to find longbed - we used a short bed frame and cut the long bed down. Looks factory. Unless you start measuring stake pockets. There's even a template out there for where to cut / how much to take out etc)
Low Mile 5.3 and Auto from a wrecked 200X Chevy Truck. Added aftermarket AC. Disc brakes, power steering, thing drives great. Gets decent gas mileage too.
If you are handy with a wrench, and you have / can buy a welder and you have some room + time and patience, replacing the rusted metal isn't a big deal, damn near every part can be had now without breaking the bank.
That being said - $12-13K should land you a NICE, ready to drive truck. A co-worker sold his '72 K10 shortbed and it was SUPER clean (zero rust) for $12K a couple of years ago. It needed nothing but a fat wallet (35" tires, 350 small block, 3.73 gears and no OD)
If you do the work yourself you can build what you want for probably less than thought (not counting your labor of course) and learning bodywork and paint is NOT rocket science....again PATIENCE and willing to learn.
I daily drove a 11 second 3rd Gen Camaro for a good bit. Only reason I stopped someone offered me what I thought was a ridiculous price and away it went. (400 SBC chevy, modified TPI, custom tune, T5 manual etc) it was a blast to drive.
If that's what you want for for it. In 10 years no one will be hunting for a 2007 4-Runner....but a 60's Chevy truck???