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Posted: 8/3/2014 9:51:49 PM EDT
Buddy that owns Texas Certified motors here in town called me to his business yesterday and told me this was mine and he wanted me to have it.
So I got it home and looked it over, ordered all new tie rod ends, adjusting sleeve, drag link and some electrical stuff to get some things in order. It has a 360cui motor and runs fairly well. Gonna slowly give it some repairs and love over the winter months. 
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Posted: 8/3/2014 10:13:33 PM EDT
[#1]
Cool truck.
Any trucks from 1976 around here are rotted up to the door handles. 
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Posted: 8/4/2014 10:15:45 PM EDT
[#2]
The 360 is a torque monster, though not so good on gas as you can imagine. If it's an automatic make sure your foot is FIRMLY on the brake pedal while shifting, otherwise you'll lurch backward a couple feet while passing through reverse LOL.
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Posted: 8/4/2014 10:38:37 PM EDT
[#3]
Dose have a load of torque. Once the tires start to spin they just keep spinning.
It has a strange powerband, not quite like a big block but more than a small block. It's been a while since I owned anything but a Honda with a four banger. |
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Posted: 9/1/2014 4:12:15 PM EDT
[#4]
Update.
After replacing the front I-beam axle bushings, radius arm bushings, drag link,tie rod ends and king pins the truck drives like ne. Also installed 2 1/2' duel exhaust with Jegs deep tone chambered mufflers and an H-pipe and a set of Headman 3' collector headers. It woke the engine up some but was still running rough, so I did a tune up on it and found someone had installed a Petronix distributor and had the timing way off. It was about 30* BTC with the carb adjusted to make it run that way. Rolled the timing back to 12* and adjusted it to run smooth. Holy crap it woke the thing up. It ran way to good to be a 360CI, so I did some checking on the casting #'s on the block and checked the stroke of the crank. The stroke turned out to be almost 4.00".
The casting numbers on the block confirmed the best case scenario........ Yep it is a 1968 428 interceptor. 
Here is a short cellphone vid of it running. |
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Posted: 9/1/2014 5:30:49 PM EDT
[#5]
SWEET!!!
I'm going to give you a little advice that if you'll heed will net you the single biggest HP, drivability and economy gain you can imagine. Buy yourself a wideband O2 gauge and tune by it! |
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Posted: 9/1/2014 10:02:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The casting numbers on the block confirmed the best case scenario........ Yep it is a 1968 428 interceptor. Nice score!! 
The odds are pretty good that you do have a 428 but the block casting numbers will not tell you definitively what engine you have. 390-428 used the same casting numbers. All you know for certain by checking stroke is that you have a 428 crank. If it is a C8ME-A block, then it is a good chance that it is a 428 block. There was no "Police Interceptor" specific block. You could just as easily have a 428CJ short block. What are the head casting numbers? They are between the center 2 exhaust ports. Which intake does it have? There were 3 different cast iron intakes used on those engines. You also do not know what year the engine actually is by the block casting numbers. The actual casting date code is below the oil filter adapter as viewed from below. It will be in a number/letter/number format. (Year, Month, Date) |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 12:03:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Date code 7E10
Block code.C6ME-A C6ME-A '66 - '70/ 428 c.i.d. 428-4V, Police Interceptor, May Or May Not Be Drilled For Hydraulic Lifters… Look For Oil Galleries 
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:01:35 AM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:02:53 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: SWEET!!! I'm going to give you a little advice that if you'll heed will net you the single biggest HP, drivability and economy gain you can imagine. Buy yourself a wideband O2 gauge and tune by it! Which brand do you recommend? I've been looking at the AEM kit.
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Posted: 9/2/2014 7:21:35 AM EDT
[#10]
Send those wheels back to the 90's!
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Posted: 9/2/2014 11:50:24 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Send those wheels back to the 90's! I'm keeping them. I have a nice newer set that will fit this truck. But I wanna run it retro the way it is. 
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Posted: 9/2/2014 12:14:03 PM EDT
[#12]
Congrats OP, the FE motors are some of the most under rated motors of all time. Great toy, now if gas was 35¢ a gallon, it would make a great daily driver!
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Posted: 9/2/2014 2:13:00 PM EDT
[#13]
More than likely it is a 390.
C6ME-A is a common casting number used on FE blocks. Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 3:10:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which brand do you recommend? I've been looking at the AEM kit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
SWEET!!! I'm going to give you a little advice that if you'll heed will net you the single biggest HP, drivability and economy gain you can imagine. Buy yourself a wideband O2 gauge and tune by it! Which brand do you recommend? I've been looking at the AEM kit. I had the AEM and thought very highly of it. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 3:15:44 PM EDT
[#15]
From diyford.com:
The "Drill Bit Test” This one test is the single best way to quickly identify an assembled FE block, and credit for it goes to FordFE.com forum member David "Shoe” Schouweiler. You only need the simplest of measuring tools– some drill bits. The following is paraphrased from several of Dave’s responses to block identification questions posed on the forum. Remove the center freeze plug from the side of the engine block. Using common drill bits, then slip the shank portion of the largest possible bit in between the center cylinder cores through the freeze plug opening. The size of this largest drill bit indicates which water-jacket core was used to cast the block. If you can only fit a 1/8- or 9/64- inch drill bit shank between the cylinders at the largest gap position on the block, and a 10/64-inch bit doesn’t fit anywhere, then they are 427 water jackets. 406/428/DIF361/DIF391 blocks allow a 13/64-inch drill bit shankto fit into the gap at the largest position. MCC361FT/MCC391FT blocks (MCC = "mirror 105” marking) allow a 14/64-inch bit to fit between the cores. Regular 360/390/410 blocks hang around the 17/64- to 19/64-inch water-jacket space at the largest position on the block. These are only approximations, but tend to be close. Even if you do have the good jackets, be sure to sonic map the cylinders before boring. If the core has shifted, it could cause problems. It is not at all unusual for FE engines to have considerable core shift. And the oft-raced and abused 427 engines seem to have some of the thinnest cylinders. A block with core shift has cylinders that are thicker on one side and thinner on the other. This can leave the cylinder wall too thin after machining, compromising strength and piston-ring seal. |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 3:46:14 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number 330 was a FT engine and not a FE. Quoted:
Block code.C6ME-A C6ME-A '66 - '70/ 428 c.i.d. 428-4V, Police Interceptor, May Or May Not Be Drilled For Hydraulic Lifters… Look For Oil Galleries Where are you quoting this from? That block was most likely drilled for hydraulic lifters. C6ME-A could be a 352, 390, a 410 or a 428 block. The fact that you have a 428 stroke crank would likely make your engine either a 410 or a 428. The date code means that the block is a May 1967 cast block which would make it 1967 model year. What heads and intake do you have? |
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Posted: 9/2/2014 8:20:32 PM EDT
[#17]
Block code.C6ME-A Pulled the left/pass side head off to look a the intake / exhaust valve and lifter on cyl #4 had a rattle in it. turned out to be a bent push rod and bad valve guide. pulled the headand while I was in there I checked the bore and it was 4.162 which tells me it is a 428 bored ,030 over. Stroke is just a tad under 4.00" Seems to be a fairly recent rebuild, just look at the rockers and oil galleys in the pick before I pulled the head, 
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Posted: 9/2/2014 11:36:27 PM EDT
[#18]
What heads and intake does the engine have?
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Posted: 9/2/2014 11:56:31 PM EDT
[#19]
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 9:20:05 AM EDT
[#20]
I'd make it factory again, body wise...
Sweet ass truck. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 9:32:30 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.) Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.  |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 1:45:17 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
330 was a FT engine and not a FE. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number 330 was a FT engine and not a FE. FT/FE are all related, forged cranks in FT and larger front snout on crank. Cheap forged crank up grade was to use the FT crank after cutting the snout down And ill stand by that C6ME-a can be 330, 352, 359,360, 361,389, 390, 391,410 or 428 Casting numbers on FE's basically mean squat |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 2:00:58 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FT/FE are all related, forged cranks in FT and larger front snout on crank. Cheap forged crank up grade was to use the FT crank after cutting the snout down And ill stand by that C6ME-a can be 330, 352, 359,360, 361,389, 390, 391,410 or 428 Casting numbers on FE's basically mean squat The extensive machine work and balancing does not make the FT a "cheap" option these days unless you (or a buddy willing to work for beer) own or are employed by a machine shop. The fact that it is obviously a FE engine configuration would make it statistically unlikely to be a FT block although not completely unheard of with a nearly 50 year old engine block. All which really needs to be done with the bare block is to install the distributor shaft bushing in the block for the FE distributor shaft size. This bushing was factory installed in the MD version of 330FT engines. If you have a bare block, that (distributor shaft passage size) is the quickest method of identifying a FT vs FE block. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 3:06:34 PM EDT
[#24]
What a logistical nightmare!
Just how many different v8 engines did ford feel they needed to have between 330 and 360 cubic inches? |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 3:47:56 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The extensive machine work and balancing does not make the FT a "cheap" option these days unless you (or a buddy willing to work for beer) own or are employed by a machine shop. The fact that it is obviously a FE engine configuration would make it statistically unlikely to be a FT block although not completely unheard of with a nearly 50 year old engine block. All which really needs to be done with the bare block is to install the distributor shaft bushing in the block for the FE distributor shaft size. This bushing was factory installed in the MD version of 330FT engines. If you have a bare block, that (distributor shaft passage size) is the quickest method of identifying a FT vs FE block. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
FT/FE are all related, forged cranks in FT and larger front snout on crank. Cheap forged crank up grade was to use the FT crank after cutting the snout down And ill stand by that C6ME-a can be 330, 352, 359,360, 361,389, 390, 391,410 or 428 Casting numbers on FE's basically mean squat The extensive machine work and balancing does not make the FT a "cheap" option these days unless you (or a buddy willing to work for beer) own or are employed by a machine shop. The fact that it is obviously a FE engine configuration would make it statistically unlikely to be a FT block although not completely unheard of with a nearly 50 year old engine block. All which really needs to be done with the bare block is to install the distributor shaft bushing in the block for the FE distributor shaft size. This bushing was factory installed in the MD version of 330FT engines. If you have a bare block, that (distributor shaft passage size) is the quickest method of identifying a FT vs FE block. Key word..."was" Too many options today to use an FT crank. And never said it was a FT motor only stating the Fact that casting numbers on FE's can belong to a wide range of engines |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 4:52:38 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What a logistical nightmare! Just how many different v8 engines did ford feel they needed to have between 330 and 360 cubic inches? It is actually straight forward. You did not get a 330 unless you had a HD truck (F600, etc). The same goes for the 361/391 motors. Your typical F150 got a 352, 360 or 390 depending on what year it was. The 360 pretty much replaced the 352 as it was essentially a 390 block with a 352 crank. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 5:46:13 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is actually straight forward. You did not get a 330 unless you had a HD truck (F600, etc). The same goes for the 361/391 motors. Your typical F150 got a 352, 360 or 390 depending on what year it was. The 360 pretty much replaced the 352 as it was essentially a 390 block with a 352 crank. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What a logistical nightmare! Just how many different v8 engines did ford feel they needed to have between 330 and 360 cubic inches? It is actually straight forward. You did not get a 330 unless you had a HD truck (F600, etc). The same goes for the 361/391 motors. Your typical F150 got a 352, 360 or 390 depending on what year it was. The 360 pretty much replaced the 352 as it was essentially a 390 block with a 352 crank. Don't forget about the y-block and any one of the half dozen 351 iterations. I never understood Ford's truck powertrain schizophrenia from the 60's to 80's |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 6:16:04 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't forget about the y-block and any one of the half dozen 351 iterations. I never understood Ford's truck powertrain schizophrenia from the 60's to 80's You make it sound like they were all options concurrently.. 
The Y block was replaced by the FE in the early 1960s. Ford only ever used the 351W and 351M in trucks. Not quite 1/2 dozen.. 
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Posted: 9/3/2014 6:26:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You make it sound like they were all options concurrently..
The Y block was replaced by the FE in the early 1960s. Ford only ever used the 351W and 351M in trucks. Not quite 1/2 dozen.. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Don't forget about the y-block and any one of the half dozen 351 iterations. I never understood Ford's truck powertrain schizophrenia from the 60's to 80's You make it sound like they were all options concurrently..
The Y block was replaced by the FE in the early 1960s. Ford only ever used the 351W and 351M in trucks. Not quite 1/2 dozen.. It's not so much that as it appeared as though every couple three years ford would decide the truck engines were all wrong and change it up to a completely different architecture. And of course it would have been too simple on the guy servicing the thing years later to have made sure all the transmissions were the same bellhousing pattern. In tucks Iirc dodge had 2 engines between 330 and 360 GM one two if you count the olds diesel International one Ford 6? |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 6:52:50 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not so much that as it appeared as though every couple three years ford would decide the truck engines were all wrong and change it up to a completely different architecture. Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not so much that as it appeared as though every couple three years ford would decide the truck engines were all wrong and change it up to a completely different architecture. Ford ran the 351W in trucks for almost 30 years, the 302 for longer and the 460 for about 25ish. What are you talking about??? 
Quoted:
And of course it would have been too simple on the guy servicing the thing years later to have made sure all the transmissions were the same bellhousing pattern. . Ford had only 3 concurrently for about 10 years and then only 2 from there on out. Quoted:
In tucks Iirc dodge had 2 engines between 330 and 360 GM one two if you count the olds diesel International one Ford 6? In "passenger"/light duty trucks, from the mid 1960s into the late 1990s, Ford only had 4, never more than 3 concurrently and 2 of those 4 only had a couple of year and a few years life span so it is not worth complaining about as that brings it down to 2 for nearly that entire 30 years.
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Posted: 9/3/2014 7:03:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Lotsa potential there
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Posted: 9/3/2014 7:04:38 PM EDT
[#32]
Just answer the original question.
Between 1960 and 1980 how many v8's between 330 and 360 ci did ford use in f series light duty trucks? And how many trans bellhousing patterns span this 20 year range? Don't you think that having even extra ONE oddball trans pattern is kinda retarded? Why didn't they do like everyone else and standardize? |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 7:53:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just answer the original question. Between 1960 and 1980 how many v8's between 330 and 360 ci did ford use in f series light duty trucks? And how many trans bellhousing patterns span this 20 year range? Don't you think that having even extra ONE oddball trans pattern is kinda retarded? Why didn't they do like everyone else and standardize? Small block, FE big block and M pattern / 385 are all I remember. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 8:06:11 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just answer the original question. Between 1960 and 1980 how many v8's between 330 and 360 ci did ford use in f series light duty trucks? And how many trans bellhousing patterns span this 20 year range? Don't you think that having even extra ONE oddball trans pattern is kinda retarded? Why didn't they do like everyone else and standardize? I already answered your question. There were only 4 different V8 engines between those 2 CID limits during that 20 year period. None of the transmission patterns can really be considered "oddball". Ford simply chose to make their "small block" families small and their "big block" families big. Take the "small block" family for instance. Ford used the same bellhousing pattern on 7 distinctly different engines (221 to 351 CID) during the time period from 1961 to about 1997. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 8:06:13 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight. http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.) Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future. http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.
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Posted: 9/3/2014 8:15:48 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.) Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future. http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.
Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection. |
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Posted: 9/3/2014 8:34:13 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.) Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future. http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.
Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection. Tag on the rear end says 3:00 gear ratio and code says 28 splines if it is original to the truck. |
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Posted: 9/4/2014 5:04:09 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tag on the rear end says 3:00 gear ratio and code says 28 splines if it is original to the truck. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.) Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future. http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.
Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection. Tag on the rear end says 3:00 gear ratio and code says 28 splines if it is original to the truck. That'll be good for gas mileage but if you're planning on doing much showing off or towing, use the setup I listed above with a posi of some sort, 3.50 and 31 spline axles for peace of mind.
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Posted: 9/4/2014 8:46:36 AM EDT
[#39]
It has a posiloc or limited in it now, cuz it is hard to make it break loose one tire.
Long double black marks and even second gear chirps leave dual stripes .
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Posted: 9/9/2014 10:58:40 AM EDT
[#40]
If you go the route, like I did, Edelbrock heads, intake, carb and cam, you might as well get a set of Harland Sharp rockers. Plan on buying new motor mounts as well, ask me how I know.
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Posted: 9/21/2014 10:53:47 PM EDT
[#41]
Update/ 1stround of parts ordered.
Gonna pull the heads off and port them a bit and get the machine shop to install larger valves, guides and seats. Went with a 600cfm carb to get better low end response. I'm wanting torque over horsepower. Summit Racing Summit Racing Equipment Order Confirmation Thank You! Billing & Shipping | Payment | Order Confirmation Print this document for your records Status: Order #28XXXXX Customer Number: 1118XXXXX Order Date: 9/21/2014 10:32:00 PM Shipping Method: Ground Your Order Purchased Items Part # Item Status Price Qty Line Total EDL-7105 Edelbrock 7105 - Edelbrock Performer RPM FE Intake Manifolds Order this item and get free delivery and handling on your entire order! Oversize fees also waived on this item. Valid on orders shipped in the contiguous United States. Ready to Ship $384.97 1 $384.97 EDL-7224 Edelbrock 7224 - Edelbrock Intake Manifold Gaskets Ready to Ship $14.97 1 $14.97 EDL-8507 Edelbrock 8507 - Edelbrock Intake Manifold Bolt Kits Ready to Ship $23.97 1 $23.97 EDL-8710 Edelbrock 8710 - Edelbrock Carburetor Spacers Ready to Ship $30.97 1 $30.97 SUM-111434 Summit Racing SUM-111434 - Summit Racing® Copper Exhaust Gaskets Ready to Ship $29.97 1 $29.97 SUM-220104-B Summit Racing SUM-220104-B - Summit Racing® Dual Feed Fuel Lines Ready to Ship $47.97 1 $47.97 SUM-G1418 Summit Racing SUM-G1418 - Summit Racing® Carburetor Gaskets Ready to Ship $1.97 2 $3.94 SUM-G1421 Summit Racing SUM-G1421 - Summit Racing® Carburetor Stud Kits Ready to Ship $4.97 1 $4.97 SUM-G1484N Summit Racing SUM-G1484N - Summit Racing® Pipe Plug Kits Ready to Ship $10.97 1 $10.97 SUM-M08070 Summit Racing SUM-M08070 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetor Throttle Lever Extensions Ready to Ship $8.25 1 $8.25 SUM-M08600VS Summit Racing SUM-M08600VS - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetors Ready to Ship $279.97 1 $279.97 Part Subtotal $840.92 Order Subtotal $840.92 Ending Balance $840.92 |
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Posted: 9/29/2014 11:42:36 PM EDT
[#42]
Ordered a set of Heads with 2.090 Intake Valves and1.650 Exhaust Valves.
Lunati Voodoo cam,lifters and timing set, 2,400 rpm stall converter and a bunch more parts. So it looks like the motor is coming out in a few weeks. Looking at my rocker arm choices for the lift and spring pressures it will be running. Think I'm gonna go with the Carol Shelby engine company FE set. |
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Posted: 9/30/2014 12:19:00 PM EDT
[#43]
When I built mine the Carol Shelby parts weren't available yet. You will have a certified stump puller when your done. now if gasoline was just 31 cents a gallon again...
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Posted: 10/15/2014 8:45:23 AM EDT
[#44]
Well, I have all the parts now.
Looks like I'm gonna pull the engine this Sunday and get this party started. Now Carter fuel pump and 3/8 fuel line going in also. I'll post some pics if when we get started. |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 2:18:47 PM EDT
[#45]
Small update.
Well this thing has turned into a real project. I'm about $4,500.00 deep in parts now, waiting on the machine shop to finish their work. |
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Posted: 11/29/2014 2:49:48 PM EDT
[#46]
Keep us updated, my first "car" was a '69 F100 long bed. Mine had. 302 and three on the tree.
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Posted: 11/29/2014 11:38:03 PM EDT
[#47]
Engine removal.
New intake and carb. 
Rebuilt heads with cobrajet valves. 
New three core radiator. 
Headers blasted,painted and baked to 650* 
Removed old leaf springs and replaced with x-heavy camper special springs. 
Installed 4.5" lowering kit and leafs in the rear. This pic was taken just after I lowered it off the lift. It sits about 1" lower than in the pic. 
New heater core. 
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Posted: 12/1/2014 11:08:13 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, I have all the parts now. Looks like I'm gonna pull the engine this Sunday and get this party started. Now Carter fuel pump and 3/8 fuel line going in also. I'll post some pics if when we get started. If you are replacing the fuel lines, go to 1/2" feed to pump, and 1/2" to the carb. No mater what mods you make in the future you will have enough fuel supply to feed the motor. If you are mechanically inclined, also replace the in tank fuel pick up with a 1/2" line. |
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Posted: 12/1/2014 3:22:11 PM EDT
[#49]
What did they charge you for those heads? Did they blend the bowls for the larger valves? It looks like they left the small intake and low exhaust ports alone. You may want to check your header port alignment.
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Posted: 12/1/2014 8:58:18 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What did they charge you for those heads? Did they blend the bowls for the larger valves? It looks like they left the small intake and low exhaust ports alone. You may want to check your header port alignment. $700.00 for the heads, three angle with SS cobra jet valves and the correct valve springs for my cam. Bowls were blended some, not as much as I would like. Might do a little more work on them before they go on the motor. Headers fit well. These are basically the same casting as the heads that were on the motor. The small intake ports still flow pretty well and I am shooting more for torque not so much horsepower. I just want a solid, strong street motor. I had to reel myself in on some things I wanted to do to it because I wanna drive this truck for a few years and have a truck I can use as a truck . |
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