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Posted: 3/1/2006 5:38:07 PM EDT

Hey guys and gals i would appriciate yalls help on this. i need advice on a list i have of parts.

1)$215 superior arms lower with six postion
2)$480 RRA upper with 16 inch R-4 barrel
3)$100 YHM carbine solid four rail forearm assembly
4)$117 Bushmaster A3 carry handle
5)$035 RRA forearm vertical grip made by SOG

and tips on good cheap mags would be nice

and what the heck is a "free float" rail compared to a "non free float"

message back on this board but also if u can email me at GunboyG3@aol.com

feel free to let loose in opinions and advice please
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 6:01:49 PM EDT
I take it you have the tools to assemble this free float rail onto the upper?
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 7:08:45 PM EDT
idk genius thats y i asked wat the difference between free and non free float
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 4:15:01 AM EDT
calm down a bit.


you asked for help and the guy just wants to make sure you are equipped to get it done. if you dont have tools then add that to the list.

check the build it yourself forum along with the rifles,uppers, and lowers. there is everything you could possible want to know in the tacked threads from FAQ's to How to's
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 7:28:18 AM EDT
I really need to create a account for threads like this one.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 7:57:50 AM EDT

Originally Posted By GunboyG3:
and what the heck is a "free float" rail compared to a "non free float"



A free float rail does not actually touch the barrel at the front of the rifle (ie, the barrel is "floating" inside the rail). The free floating barrel will probably be slightly more accurate, as the connection of the rail to the front of the barrel affects the motion of the barrel as a bullet is fired through it.

However, if you want a rifle that looks like a service rifle, free float is probably not the way to go.

I'm not sure what advice you are looking for on your list of parts. I look at that list and say to myself "yup, I could make a rifle with those". Whether it is the right rifle for you or not really depends on what you want the rifle to do. The nice thing about the AR is that you can really take customization as far as you want, ranging from the external accessories to the tiny parts in your bolt. What works best for me may not work best for you, depending on what you want to do with your rifle.

What are you trying to build? The most accurate AR in the world? A rifle that matches US military specifications as closely as possible? A "home defense" AR?
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 8:09:22 AM EDT

Originally Posted By pliftkl:

Originally Posted By GunboyG3:
and what the heck is a "free float" rail compared to a "non free float"



A free float rail does not actually touch the barrel at the front of the rifle (ie, the barrel is "floating" inside the rail). The free floating barrel will probably be slightly more accurate, as the connection of the rail to the front of the barrel affects the motion of the barrel as a bullet is fired through it.

However, if you want a rifle that looks like a service rifle, free float is probably not the way to go.




You can go a free float sleeve with standard A2 handgaurds that will give it a service rifle look.

This if from COZ-45's thread for his logo.


you can do it urself on the computer easy or pay sum kid like 5 bucks or take it to a pro, and boom you got urself the banner. end of story. look im just tryin to get my first AR and im short on cash being 14 so im doin my best and my personal thought is that is the best idea so far. so im trying to contribute to his projects hoping he will contribute to mine with a free Lower cuz as i said when your 14 its hard to earn roughly $1,000 mowing lawns during the summer when you get payed 20 bucks a lawn


Being 14, you will have to have an adult gift the lower to you or wait till you are 18 to buy the rifle legally.

Try not to burn too many bridges before you get to that age, mmk?
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 8:28:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By GunboyG3:
idk genius thats y i asked wat the difference between free and non free float



For your 6th post probably not the best way to talk to someone when your asking a question.
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 11:26:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By GunboyG3:
idk genius thats y i asked wat the difference between free and non free float



I long for the days before the internet where an in-person response such as this one would quickly get an adolescent put in his place...

Link Posted: 3/2/2006 7:39:49 PM EDT
k look i was having a bad day and yes i apologise for the comment i was an asshole. sorry about that. but trust me i think i have everytool known to man you can count on that
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 7:46:43 PM EDT
pliftkl,

im just trying to built a nice but cheap AR with a 6 position stock and a 4 rail forearm with a vertical foregrip with a 16" R4 barrel, so if any of you guys have insight on that feel free to comment(though im stressed so if i send back a total dick comment, dont be afraid to virtualy chastize my butt)

and my last question, if a free float is not touching the end of a barrel and has that large gap, wouldnt it be easy to break if the rifle was dropped or that sort of thing?
Link Posted: 3/2/2006 8:43:06 PM EDT

Originally Posted By GunboyG3:
im just trying to built a nice but cheap AR with a 6 position stock and a 4 rail forearm with a vertical foregrip with a 16" R4 barrel, so if any of you guys have insight on that feel free to comment(though im stressed so if i send back a total dick comment, dont be afraid to virtualy chastize my butt)



If cheap is your criteria, then there are a few things you can do.

1. You can probably build your lower for cheaper than you are buying it. Not by much, but you might shave $50 off. You'd start with a bare lower and a parts kit, then add the cheapest six position stock you can find. Another option in the short term is to consider a fixed stock rather than the multi-position stock.

2. You don't need a carry handle. You can get a cheap, flip up rear sight for $60.

3. A vertical grip is an option. Your rifle will fire just fine without it. I know it's "kewl gear", but you don't need it to have a functional rifle.

Don't be afraid to start with a functional rifle, learn to shoot it well, and then add your "dream components" as you can afford them.


and my last question, if a free float is not touching the end of a barrel and has that large gap, wouldnt it be easy to break if the rifle was dropped or that sort of thing?


It won't break. The barrel is strong. At some point in your future, you'll take an AR apart, and you'll see how strongly it's attached. If you took the rifle and smashed it against a concrete wall, you might bend the barrel, but having an attached handguard wouldn't prevent that.
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 10:48:09 AM EDT

Originally Posted By pliftkl:

If cheap is your criteria, then there are a few things you can do.

1. You can probably build your lower for cheaper than you are buying it. Not by much, but you might shave $50 off. You'd start with a bare lower and a parts kit, then add the cheapest six position stock you can find. Another option in the short term is to consider a fixed stock rather than the multi-position stock.

2. You don't need a carry handle. You can get a cheap, flip up rear sight for $60.

3. A vertical grip is an option. Your rifle will fire just fine without it. I know it's "kewl gear", but you don't need it to have a functional rifle.

Don't be afraid to start with a functional rifle, learn to shoot it well, and then add your "dream components" as you can afford them.



If he truly wants cheap, he needs to haunt the equipment exchange buying used parts till he has everything.

A cheap flip sight can be $60, but I've seen carry handles go as cheap as $40 in the EE.

Just depends how much time and effort you want to put into finding parts.
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 11:03:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/3/2006 11:04:11 AM EDT by COZ_45]
Link Posted: 3/3/2006 2:53:02 PM EDT
haha lol well u know just kinda bein lazy on the keys. shhhhhhhhhhh they need there rest
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