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Posted: 12/8/2003 6:13:31 AM EDT
fair price for an ar15?

ALL Colt except RRA lower. Tapco , 20" , A2 all of the finish gone on the edges of the upper, but a lot of the anodizing still there.

found a bushmaster A3 HB with 5 USGI mags, 200 rds. ammo, bushmaster case, tapco scope mount for $850 and i really want to try a flattop 16".
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:42:42 AM EDT
So, it's a Colt 20" A2 HBAR that is fairly well used on a RRA lower. That correct? How many rounds through the upper and lower? Is the lower all RRA or did you build out a stripped lower with a Colt parts kit?

Adco has RRA uppers for $390 and complete lowers for $216 (plus FFL fees). Thats a new RRA A2 20" rifle for $606, plus FFL fees and shipping.

I have seen complete RRA lowers for around $200 (plus tax) at recent gun shows.

Some guys are willing to pay more for Colt parts. I'm not one of them.

For me, it would really depend on how many rounds are through that upper. I haven't been shopping used rifles, but you may want to contact some local stores and see what they've got.

Hope this helps some.

Link Posted: 12/8/2003 11:14:28 AM EDT
most of the guys i know will pay more for a colt. a friend of mine is a gunshow nut and he stated that in his observation the colts sold first at gunshows, then bushmaster, then rra.
don't matter to me long as i get it for next to nothing.

bookhound i am sending you mail
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 11:44:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/8/2003 11:44:56 AM EDT by BookHound]
Got your mail, thanks!

Actually, a lot of guys I know will pay more for the Colts too. There is really something to be said for Colt quality. Bradd_D can attest to this. He recently did a lot of comparing of Colt parts to RRA parts and he was impressed enough to sell me his RRA stuff to fund a Colt project. He explained to me some of the things, like how the Colt showed signs of the QC department checking the steel hardness behind every lug on the bolt.

One thing you don't hear much about is QC issues with Colts. There is a reason for that.

Link Posted: 12/8/2003 5:25:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By BookHound:
Some guys are willing to pay more for Colt parts.



Hey! I resemble that remark!
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 4:34:14 AM EDT
J3, ar15 fire control parts and carrier. when you painted the alumihyde did you completely buff the upper or just hit the rough spots then paint. and how did it come out?
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 6:02:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/9/2003 6:05:28 AM EDT by Muddy]
I'm going to have to take issue with the Colt QC remark. It sounds to me like some have been reading the Colt propaganda too much (we are the original makers, we have the military contract, and blah..blah...blah).

I had a good friend that purchased a post-ban HBAR match and had nothing but problems with it. The weapon would not feed out of anything other than the 5 round mag they sent it with. We tried 4-5 different types of GI 30 round mags, including Colt mags that worked in other AR/M16's without a hitch and after two trips back to Colt all they did was polish on the feed ramps and it still didn't work.

Now I'll grant you that every manufacturer makes a lemon now and again; hell, my Glock 19 had a barrel with a chamber that wasn't reamed deep enough and needed to be swapped and I love Glocks.

My other issue with Colt's civillian stuff is that it is NOT mil-spec. Big hole pivot pin, big hole fire control group pins, sear blocks, and no sear relief in some of there uppers. Not to mention they keep changing the design of the tail end on the bolt carriers so that now it's not even an enclosed circle. Do I need to go on?

Bottom line is that if you want the little horsey and Colt name on an AR and that's worth more to you than 90% of the gun being mil-spec (less full auto parts) then go for it. I'll stick with RRA or Bushmaster.
Link Posted: 12/10/2003 3:31:32 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Muddy:
I'm going to have to take issue with the Colt QC remark. It sounds to me like some have been reading the Colt propaganda too much (we are the original makers, we have the military contract, and blah..blah...blah).

I had a good friend that purchased a post-ban HBAR match and had nothing but problems with it. The weapon would not feed out of anything other than the 5 round mag they sent it with. We tried 4-5 different types of GI 30 round mags, including Colt mags that worked in other AR/M16's without a hitch and after two trips back to Colt all they did was polish on the feed ramps and it still didn't work.

Now I'll grant you that every manufacturer makes a lemon now and again; hell, my Glock 19 had a barrel with a chamber that wasn't reamed deep enough and needed to be swapped and I love Glocks.

My other issue with Colt's civillian stuff is that it is NOT mil-spec. Big hole pivot pin, big hole fire control group pins, sear blocks, and no sear relief in some of there uppers. Not to mention they keep changing the design of the tail end on the bolt carriers so that now it's not even an enclosed circle. Do I need to go on?

Bottom line is that if you want the little horsey and Colt name on an AR and that's worth more to you than 90% of the gun being mil-spec (less full auto parts) then go for it. I'll stick with RRA or Bushmaster.



Congratulations Bookhound! Anyone who can get Muddy to post, is really doing something.

I am with Muddy on this one. RRA and Bushmaster seem to be the best bang for the buck right now. (Pun intended)

I would say that the 20" HBAR is probably worth around $600 - $700.
Link Posted: 12/10/2003 4:25:22 AM EDT
comment: i personally have been thinking of purchasing one of the RRA m4 type uppers, i don't have a quality issue in my mind. just thinking if POSSIBLY the rifle were to be sold in the future the average joe thinks "colt".

J3, you didn't bake yours or anything just painted and assembled right? how does it hold up now (scratches, flaking,etc.)
Link Posted: 12/11/2003 2:22:24 AM EDT
It is about the best no bake paint I have used.You do not have to bake it. It is thicker than the other bake on finishes and can cause problems with pins and detents in holes if you do not clean them out. Wears ok I guess never really tried to abuse it. CLP does not seem to hurt it. They say on the can it full hardens in about a week but it seems like it takes about a month to me. Maybe I just put it on too thick or something.
Link Posted: 12/11/2003 7:02:02 PM EDT
Interesting read for anyone who is interested...

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