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Posted: 11/7/2005 4:31:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/28/2005 2:17:56 PM EDT by acman145acp]
Just wondering if you do what you use how you do it.............

I had a bookmark that showed how to do it that was kickass but I cant find it........

I "think" I want to use the stuff you cook on......... I've got an old refrigerator I'm going to turn into a makeshift oven..you gota understand I'm a redneck........I've already got an airbrush kit......

Me and an older"60's" buddy of mine have been talking about doing some rifles for a while......he took it to the next level he bought some krylon and tested it out on one of his extra 10/22's this weekend........ while we know it won't last it looks kick ass.......

I will have an oakleaf pattern AR shortly

TEST SUBJECT

I'm not sure how it will hold up cause all i did was degrease it....... semse tough you cant scrape it off with your fingernail...... wont come off with carb cleaner....... will see.......
I'll add another pic at the bottom of a cheap stainless knife my buddy sprayed to check the air brush adjustment.......
Link Posted: 11/7/2005 4:42:54 PM EDT
Ain't done an AR but I've used the shake and bake types, GunKote, on several guns. From J frame Smiths to M1A parts. Use an air brush to spray the paint. You can get it from Brownells.
The stuff has chipped on me and the metal was well prepped. Bead blasted - glass beads, not sand - and well degreased. I think the shelf life is critical. Use fresh stuff, not any old paint.
A friend has done his AR bolts with Gun Kote and swears it is the greatest thing to do to an AR since the shirt pocket was invented. He does 4 or 5 thin coats and then bakes it ina small oven. He's done several 1911 slides as well.
Don't cook the parts in the house! Momma kicked my mean ass for weeks after I did it in my home!
Link Posted: 11/7/2005 5:38:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By danc46:
Ain't done an AR but I've used the shake and bake types, GunKote, on several guns. From J frame Smiths to M1A parts. Use an air brush to spray the paint. You can get it from Brownells.
The stuff has chipped on me and the metal was well prepped. Bead blasted - glass beads, not sand - and well degreased. I think the shelf life is critical. Use fresh stuff, not any old paint.
A friend has done his AR bolts with Gun Kote and swears it is the greatest thing to do to an AR since the shirt pocket was invented. He does 4 or 5 thin coats and then bakes it ina small oven. He's done several 1911 slides as well.
Don't cook the parts in the house! Momma kicked my mean ass for weeks after I did it in my home!



You didn't read my post good I'm building an oven out of a refrigerator

I "think" im going with norrels moly resin.......... I'm not a good painter but my buddy did a kick ass job with just krylon..... I told him I'm supplying matterials hes supplying labor

I also see my "varmit" 16 bull stainless bull brl ar getting a pain't job too not to mention the 2 other lowers that are waiting on uppers............
Link Posted: 11/7/2005 7:55:26 PM EDT

Originally Posted By acman145acp:

You didn't read my post good I'm building an oven out of a refrigerator

I "think" im going with norrels moly resin.......... I'm not a good painter but my buddy did a kick ass job with just krylon..... I told him I'm supplying matterials hes supplying labor

I also see my "varmit" 16 bull stainless bull brl ar getting a pain't job too not to mention the 2 other lowers that are waiting on uppers............



Yep, I read your post. Don't do it in the garage or or the porch - any structure attached to the house. That stuff stinks worse than a sour fa*t. In fact it is poisonous - not good for that beautiful little gun toter you have hugging the rugs in your home.
Norrells moly resin is the same as Gun Kote - all of the shake and bake paints are imported from South Africa.
Metal prep is the most important thing. Make sure the metal is "rough" where the paint can get a purchase on the metal. Two or three thin coats are much better than one. Kphos is a paint on phosphate that will also work really well as an undercoat for the moly resin.
Moly Resin is a "thermoset" paint. It hardens once it hits a certain temp for a period of time. And continues to harden for a period of time after.
Link Posted: 11/7/2005 8:19:27 PM EDT
I've heard that a lot of guys get good results by parkerizing first, then applying the finish. The finish will really lock onto the parkerizing.
Link Posted: 11/7/2005 8:45:56 PM EDT
I did an old school Vietnam era A1 upper that I converted to a 9mm upper. It was all beat up and worn and I used that spray can stuff from Brownells called Teflon/Moly Oven Cure. It turned out real nice. Just followed the directions on the can.
Link Posted: 11/9/2005 5:45:34 AM EDT
Here's some info you could find useful.

www.molyresin.com/molyresin_about.asp
www.lauerweaponry.com/
Link Posted: 11/15/2005 5:45:49 PM EDT
I have used alot of Moly resin, and It is kick ass stuff.

Just Park First, or blast.
Link Posted: 11/26/2005 9:33:19 PM EDT
My first attempt at a camo job...
Link Posted: 11/27/2005 3:25:48 AM EDT
Where is it? Looks like a great job!
Link Posted: 11/27/2005 4:57:34 AM EDT

Originally Posted By 101ABN327:
My first attempt at a camo job...
www.hunt101.com/img/343005.jpg



Look's good..........Now let's hear the lowdown on what you did as far as prep work.........did you sandblast anything or just clean it....... was the lower or upper teflon coated.....

I got my molly resin in I was going to try my browning buckmark monday as a test gun.....it' my shooter so it don't matter how bad it looks
Link Posted: 11/27/2005 10:08:48 AM EDT
I cleaned everything thouroughly with break cleaner. Once dry I painted it with the dark base coat (Krylor camo green). When that dried, I applied the digital shape masks and applied the grey/green coat (Testors SAC Green). Once that dried I applied the tan stencils (Krylon camo tan). Once that dried I applied two coats of clear, flat laquer to finish it off. I took it to H&H Saturday and it did great with 200 rounds down the barrel. I'll see if I can get some more pics posted.
Link Posted: 11/28/2005 6:48:29 AM EDT
Link Posted: 11/28/2005 2:29:48 PM EDT


My partner big chep stainless test subject .......we did scratch some of it off his knife with a screwdriver but even on the stainless with no sand blasting or anything you couldnt scratch it off with your fingernail ..........

I guess I'll learn as I destroy.............

I'm pretty happy with first attempt at this considering I didn't follow all the directions no sandblasting........ Not sure how it will wear but it seem's way better than paint even without sandblasting......... I need a sandblaster now.....

You can still see a little of the gold on the triger didn't try real hard to get it I was more anxious to see if it would stick without sandblasting.........

The finish on this pistol was screwed I have abused the hell out of it so it looks way better than it did..........
Link Posted: 11/29/2005 1:15:23 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/29/2005 7:15:29 PM EDT
You can "etch" the metal with a rinse of diluted hydrochloric acid instead of bead blasting. Of course you want to use gloves and distilled water to dilute the acid and rinse the metal afterward.
The hydrochloric acid you buy for pools diluted by 1 pint to 1 gallon is enough to do the metal. You DON'T want to get it in the bore!
Link Posted: 11/30/2005 5:09:41 PM EDT
Another view...
Link Posted: 11/30/2005 6:23:05 PM EDT
man I couldn't ever camo any of my stuff, no better than I take care of my gear I'd lay it down somewhere and not be able to find it again.
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 6:19:52 AM EDT
Here is a carbine I recently finished in Norrell's Colt Grey:

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