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Posted: 11/11/2003 9:29:50 AM EDT
I was wondering if any one could help me? My rifle wasn't ejecting the spent casings and they were staying in the receiver and trying to go in with the new round. I noticed that the extractor was loose and that I could move it with my finger. The spring or pin whatever the proper term is was not broke just seemed old and worn out. Century sent me a different set installed them and now the bolt won't close I have to pull the bolt back and let it slam on the shell to get it to lock. When I fire it the casing flips all the way around and stays in the receiver and tries to load with the new round and jams. Has anybody had this problem or have any ideas about what could be wrong.
Link Posted: 11/12/2003 7:38:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/12/2003 7:54:09 AM EDT by Dano523]
How loose is your trigger housing to the receiver? How much play is there between the grip housing and trigger pack?

Can you push up on the housing in the front (at the shelf) and get the pack to rise up. If you can, then you will need to shim the shelf to keep the ejector (trigger pack) up and prevent the ejector from slipping below the slot in the bolt as it passes over the top on ejection.

Can you push forward on the trigger and feel the pack rising up in the grip housing. If you can, then you will need to shim the front of the pack to the grip housing.

As the bolt comes back, the back of carrier will raise the ejector into the groove of the bolt face to eject the case off the bolt. If the trigger pack/grip housing is slipping down on the receiver, the ejector does not ride high enough in the bolt slot to pry the spent case off the bolt face.
Since the ejector is hardened steel, bending the tip of the ejector is out, and the only fix is to make the pack sight higher in the rifle (the correct position).

This can be done by shimming the receiver/housing shelf, or if the housing sits tight, then shimming the front of pack to the housing to make the pack sit higher in the grip housing. Because the selector retains the trigger pack in the grip housing, you will be able to see how far up you can shim the front of the trigger pack and still get the selector back in the rifle, by simple looking at the alignment of the pack/housing hole for the selector.

P.S. On a HK, you have to allow the carrier to run forward on it's own power (HK slap). Do not ride the handle back down when cocking, or the carrier will not fully lock up the bolt.
Link Posted: 11/12/2003 9:09:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/12/2003 9:10:29 AM EDT by Indianwithagun]
Thanks a lot for the info I'll give it a look see.
Link Posted: 11/21/2003 12:20:04 AM EDT
That did it thanks a lot for the help!!!!!!!!!
Link Posted: 11/24/2003 11:41:50 AM EDT

P.S. On a HK, you have to allow the carrier to run forward on it's own power (HK slap). Do not ride the handle back down when cocking, or the carrier will not fully lock up the bolt.


I ride the lever to save my finish as I have a metal lever and slapping it causes the cocking tube to take a beating. I don't have a forward assist (like that many people do on 9x rifles) so I just jerk the rifle forward and it locks the bolt.

I also had a problem with my ejector lever not catching the case on the way out because the lower was sitting too low and loose. I ended up welding a shim to the reciever shelf.
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