I’ve been looking for one for about 2 years when I finally came across one about 2 days ago. 

Its an import, but it didn’t matter to me all that much. If I wanted a collectors price like my all original type 1 inland carbine - I’d had to wait a lot longer. 

Ive done some research as to the parts in it
Receiver: Dec 1943
barrel: 1/50
trigger guard: 11/40 thru 8/41
trigger assy: 11/44 thru 1/45
hammer: 9/40 thru 6/42
op rod: 12/57 - info says N.m. For the numbers on it???

importer in “EXEL” in Gardner mass. Any one have info on these? 

From what hat I can tell it’s all Springfield and war era aside from the barrel and op rod 

I got the rifle at a steal - as it was an import 

stock is not GI - I’ll replace when I find a suitable one. It has a repaired crack on the upper handguard 

Has the receiver been re-parked?

Here are some photos. Thanks ahain

cheers 

how much you pay?

A little less then $600

Nice!

So I didn’t do too bad then?

shoots and feeds and functions - haven’t put it on paper yet

OP,


You did good.

Now choot it!

Will do! I shot a clip thru it yesterday when the rain died down here in the northeast. Everything went AOK.  Hoping to get it on paper this weekend 

Yeah, that is a nice snag. Congrats!

It is said that EXEL was a sister company of Blue Sky which imported Korean M1 Garands during the mid-to-late 80s. I'm still not sure if EXEL's M1s were imported only from Korean, or whether they repatriated M1s from other countries too.

I have an EXEL M1 with a Nov '43 receiver (serial # 2.19 mil) and an LMR barrel dated 10/53. Remaining parts are a mix of Winny and S.A., so mine's obviously a post-war rebuild.

Check your barrel stamps again: is yours a S.A. or LMR barrel?

My LMR barrel is waaay shot-to-shit, measuring 6 on TE and off-the-chart on ME. Doesn't matter, as I plan to have it re-barrelled over  the winter anyway with a new Criterion 7.62/.308 tube.  Other parts, like the op rod and G.C., look good to go. The stock had been sanded down and re-stained by the previous owner, so any proof-marks were erased.

Again, it's just going to be a 'shooter' M1, but will also pull double-duty as my North Woods/cabin/camping M1. Already have lots of well-vetted clips and a few cases of surplus 7.62 ammo stocked away.

good deal brother.

Awesome buy!

I spent that on my last barrelled receiver!

Thanks for the info

my barrel is for sure marked as springfield

If I recall correctly my SA Garand receiver was made Oct/Nov of 1942 and the barrel is 51 or 52. Mine has the birch replacement stock. Many WW2 Garands were rebuilt for Korea.

I got mine from the DCM in the '90s for $250.

Very cool

im fairly new to garands, but what exactly makes them “correct” ? Is there more like a date range all of the parts should fall into ( in regards to the receiver serial number) - or something like that?

i know this likely isn’t 100% correct, but then again, how many garands are. 

It comes down to the parts design and the markings (or lack of) that will determine when it was made and or used.  There are several excellent books on the M1 that go through these parts in detail.

I think you got a smoking deal.

Haven't seen any kind of Garand around here for that price in a long time.

Will have to look into it

from everything that I took apart, all parts are marked SAI 

all parts aside from the op rod (which is a 1957 NM) and the barrel (1/50)  pre date the receiver - which in my mind would make sense.

thanks for the info

edit: looking for a USGI stock set to replace the mixmaster that’s on it if anyone knows of anyone with one

Sounds like it ought to work-- sounds to me like maybe a postwar rebuild, then maybe National Guard service, and rebarreled before it went to the Koreans. I picked up one of the last of the Blue Sky carbines during the 1991 almost-stampede-- a hundred and twenty-five bucks, fresh repark so it looks like new, and it wasn't shot to death, so serious score-- the M1s can be a bit worn, but they're workable. Go get the headspace checked, then buy some dummy rounds and check the timing, then clean it and follow the lube directions-- and shoot the doors off it. You can swap parts around easily enough if you want it to be "correct," but it still wouldn't be as valuable as a truly original rifle. Seriously cool deal, my friend--