Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Posted: 3/9/2006 12:13:00 PM EDT
Any tips on getting the gas plug off? The one on my spankin' new M1A won't move....figured I'd better check with some other folks before I start beating on it.

Link Posted: 3/9/2006 12:40:52 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/9/2006 2:48:12 PM EDT
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm having a similar problem removing the op-rod. When I went to disassemble my new M1A, I could not get the op-rod off the thing. I pulled it all the way back to the notch and it just won't come-off. It's like it's just a hair enough off that it won't reach the notch before stopping. I even tried tapping the "cocking lever" with a rubber hammer, but was not going to push it much further than that for fear of breaking it off. I've fired 240 rounds through it and haven't cleaned the bolt yet because of this problem. Luckily, it seems very clean so far. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks...
Link Posted: 3/9/2006 7:29:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Red_Label:
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm having a similar problem removing the op-rod. When I went to disassemble my new M1A, I could not get the op-rod off the thing. I pulled it all the way back to the notch and it just won't come-off. It's like it's just a hair enough off that it won't reach the notch before stopping. I even tried tapping the "cocking lever" with a rubber hammer, but was not going to push it much further than that for fear of breaking it off. I've fired 240 rounds through it and haven't cleaned the bolt yet because of this problem. Luckily, it seems very clean so far. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks...



Pretty common on new M1As. (New as in use, not as in recent production QC rumors) Take a small standard screwdriver, or something similar, tape it up so it doesn't mark the metal, and gently pry outward a bit when everything's lined up. After some use and a few field strips you probably won't need the help anymore.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 5:50:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By bishopm14:

Originally Posted By Red_Label:
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm having a similar problem removing the op-rod. When I went to disassemble my new M1A, I could not get the op-rod off the thing. I pulled it all the way back to the notch and it just won't come-off. It's like it's just a hair enough off that it won't reach the notch before stopping. I even tried tapping the "cocking lever" with a rubber hammer, but was not going to push it much further than that for fear of breaking it off. I've fired 240 rounds through it and haven't cleaned the bolt yet because of this problem. Luckily, it seems very clean so far. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks...



Pretty common on new M1As. (New as in use, not as in recent production QC rumors) Take a small standard screwdriver, or something similar, tape it up so it doesn't mark the metal, and gently pry outward a bit when everything's lined up. After some use and a few field strips you probably won't need the help anymore.



Thanks man. That's just the sort of thing I was hoping to hear.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 4:15:47 PM EDT
Brand new, not carboned or rusted in place? Use the proper wrenches, one to stabilize the gas cylinder (Army used to recommend putting a screwdriver sideways between barrel and gas cylinder), the other to get on the plug- as previously recommended.

Probably best not to beat on the wrenches. If the above doesn't work, run some real hot tap water over the hidden threaded portion of the gas plug. It and the gas cylinder will expand at a different rate, and should free up the threads.

If you suspect carbon or rust is freezing things up, you can drip a fair amount of RBC or similar into the gas cylinder from the rear, past the end of the piston. Store the barreled action muzzle down overnight, try again in the morning.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 5:55:57 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 6:01:13 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dano523:
What a bunch of savages (not you RAF)!!!!!!!!

Pull the action from the stock, insert a gas cylinder wench on the cylinder and lay the receiver on a towel on the shop bench (non ejection side down, and make sure that the cylinder wrench is resting on it’s side flats). Drop a 3/8 socket on fixed breaker bar (1/4" short type is all that is needed), then lock the socket on the barrel plug (the end of the socket bar end a few inches off the table), and just push down on the bar to break the plug free (plug spun counter clock wise).

Shoving in a screwdriver between or not back up the cylinder is just going to lead to the barrel spines loosing up (torque transfer to the barrel, or the finish on the cylinder being gouged).

When it’s all said and done, remember to grease the plug threads, and reinstall the plug to 15 in lbs.



Easy with the savage talk there, my use of the screwdriver happens a couple feet away from the gas cylinder, and is a common accepted way to persuade the op rod out of newish '14 types.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 6:07:25 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 8:33:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Dano523:

Originally Posted By bishopm14:
my use of the screwdriver happens a couple feet away from the gas cylinder



That's the problem,

The cylinder needs to be backed up right next to the gas plug or you end up transferring torque threw the barrel (the spines) and cause problems down the road.



Okay, we have a real failure to communicate here. My use of the screwdriver is pertaining to RedLabel's question in the second reply about getting the op rod out of the track, not in any way at all related to the gas cylinder question MSG posted. Yeah, maybe the second question belonged in its own thread, but that's not how it happened.
The need to "persuade" the op rod out on new '14 types is pretty well known, and using a padded blade or similar tool on the rear of the op rod is common.

But yes, you and the others are spot on about using the proper wrenches on the gas cylinder and plug. In civilian non combat use, there's really no excuse not to use the right tools.

Now, in the spirit of good cheer and all, I won't make any of my normal remarks like "typing real slow so I can be understood" or anything. Nope, not gonna do that at all...
Link Posted: 3/13/2006 3:28:09 PM EDT
It sounds like we're all in violent agreement here.

Stuck plug? Apply a couple drops of penetrating oil and let it set a couple of hours. If you own a wrench, you ought to own a bottle of penetrating oil (I mean Kroil or Marvel's Mystery Oil but not WD40). "More torque" seems to be the more popular (and often more expensive) solution.

Ty
Top Top