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Posted: 1/30/2006 4:48:20 PM EDT
My CMP order arrived over the weekend. I received a correct grade Greek HRA, along with a field grade Greek SA. Here are a few pics of the HRA straight out of the box. The finish on the stock doesn't look too bad, so I'm debating on if I want to do anything to it or not. On the other hand, the field grade that arrived at the same time is in dire need of some major TLC. The only recommendations I've seen or heard so far are linked from Different's website. I'm afraid that if I try to take the metal off the handguards I'll break something, but I'm also concerned about the easy-off damaging the metal. Any suggestions?

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d40/rwsduc/HRACorrectGrade.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d40/rwsduc/HRAreceiver.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d40/rwsduc/HRAreceiverside.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d40/rwsduc/HRAbarrelgastube.jpg

Link Posted: 1/30/2006 6:33:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/30/2006 6:33:29 PM EDT by FRO]
I dont know about the field grade but if you do anything to the HRA you have pictured you will alter a new condition rifle stock and handguards. It will seriously devalue your rifle.
Dont put any chemicals on it. Just heat it up by leaving in the sun, or shooting it on a summer day at the range. Have a towel ready to wipe the stock with, as a little oil may seep out of the grain.

If you want to refinish the field grade stock use the formbys/ minwax furniture refinisher and then apply a few coats of boiled linseed oil. The furniture refinisher will not harm the stocks color badly and wont hurt the metal either.

Link Posted: 1/30/2006 7:30:14 PM EDT
Leave it alone, rub only with BLO. That is a nice rifle. I just got a GK Collector, used BLO only.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 5:00:43 AM EDT
What's the TE and MW?
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 5:32:16 AM EDT

Originally Posted By SLYHUNTR:
Leave it alone, rub only with BLO. That is a nice rifle. I just got a GK Collector, used BLO only.



+1 I'd leave the correct or collector grades alone. If you want to restify something, I'd stick with mixmaster service grades or lower

Blitz
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 6:54:29 AM EDT
Looks pretty darn nice to me.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 8:44:53 AM EDT
Thanks for the advice and compliments. The finish on the hand guards is a bit more dull than the rest of the stock (possibly different type of wood?). If anything, I might give those a linseed oil (or tung oil?) rubdown in an attempt to get them to match a little better. Rest assured, I don't plan on stripping any of the wood on this one.

As for TE and MW, I don't have any gauges to check that with at the moment. I'll post the condition if and when I ever buy some gauges.

The wood on the field grade SA that I received at the same time is pretty ugly in comparison to the correct grade. That's the one that I would like to refinish, but I'm in no hurry to do anything of the sort just yet.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 8:49:46 AM EDT
Your wife will knock your head if you get cosmoline on that carpet.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 9:28:13 AM EDT
Go to surplusrifles.com. They have an article on the removal of cosmoline.

You take a metal gabage can, lay it on its side, mount 4 lights on the topside in side the can, put a rack on the bottom to keep the stock of the bottom, turn on lights, put syock on rack, close lid and walk away for a few hours. Cosmo comes out.

Read the article.

now if only my rifle ould come in, it's been only a week and a half. I am already going nuts from the wait.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 10:03:31 AM EDT

Originally Posted By NoHarmNoFAL-01:
Your wife will knock your head if you get cosmoline on that carpet.hr



Not anymore! I gave up the wife so I could have a corvette, ducati, kawasaki, bulldogs, and more guns than I can shoot and clean in one day. Oh, I almost forgot, and a NON-livein girlfriend that likes all of the above!
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 11:28:18 AM EDT
Oven cleaner rarely shows its damage right away. And it doesn't mess up every stock. That is why some swear by it and later just keep it a secret that they ruined a stock. I will admit it. I screwed one up. Half the shotgun butt tinted green after it had been dry for a week. ( I might not have rinsed completely or maybe I did. The point is Citristrip and KleenStrip do not do that at all.)

Do not touch that stock with any thing other that mineral spirits and more oil over time.

The stock is likely an HRA. It is not an exact science but some of the same HRA oval characteristics of the " big back porch".




You might consider a spare stock for shooting and toting around. Dougsstockpile.com frequently has HRA's on aution on ebay. They are mostly beaters with Korean rack numbers that you can refinish.


JR
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 1:49:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By racecar:
Oven cleaner rarely shows its damage right away. And it doesn't mess up every stock. That is why some swear by it and later just keep it a secret that they ruined a stock. I will admit it. I screwed one up. Half the shotgun butt tinted green after it had been dry for a week. ( I might not have rinsed completely or maybe I did. The point is Citristrip and KleenStrip do not do that at all.)

Do not touch that stock with any thing other that mineral spirits and more oil over time.

The stock is likely an HRA. It is not an exact science but some of the same HRA oval characteristics of the " big back porch".

i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51/Rotor_/th_4cfef900.jpg


You might consider a spare stock for shooting and toting around. Dougsstockpile.com frequently has HRA's on aution on ebay. They are mostly beaters with Korean rack numbers that you can refinish.


JR



Thanks for the insight here. My SA field grade is a Greek return that has a serial number on the underside of the stock, on the top right side (covered by the receiver), and inside the forend portion on a label with words like Skytte & Kampviser, along with "HTK" and what appears to be windage and elevation information for 300 meters followed by "Klik". All that (useless info?) said, is this stock just a run of the mill beat up Greek stock that is "safe" to attempt to refinish, or is it prudent to leave it as is and learn to like the looks of it?

Sorry for all the rookie questions, these are my first two Garands and I'm still waiting on a few Scott Duff publications to arrive that will hopefully answer most of my future questions. Thanks in advance!
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 3:36:49 PM EDT
Can you post more pics of the HRA correct? What was the TE/MW?


Scott
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 3:57:49 PM EDT

Originally Posted By scottryan:
Can you post more pics of the HRA correct? What was the TE/MW?


Scott



I don't have any gauges to check TE or MW at the moment. I'll try to remember to order some gauges the next time I buy some accessories. Just when I thought I had everything I needed...

As for pictures, I've posted all I have taken so far. If there are any particular views you'd like to see, let me know and I'll try to post some more in the next day or so.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 4:28:09 PM EDT
I have used a product called Purple Power on 3 Garands that came from the CMP on both the wood and the metal. I mix it about 2 parts HOT water to 1 part Purple Power and let them soak for a couple of hours. It will put the cosmo right to the surface on the stock. Then I use a soft bristle brush to gently scrub the surface of the wood and rinse with hot water.

Some of the smaller parts of the trigger mechanism, etc. go to soak in a gallon can of carburetor parts cleaner.

When the wood is dry, it gets a light sanding to drop the grain, a steaming to raise the dents/dings, another light sanding and then rubbed with boiled linseed oil.

I would not do that to the correct's stock...that would get denatured alcohol and some gentle scrubbing.

It may not be perfect but it certainly works.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 6:38:49 PM EDT

Originally Posted By rwsduc:

Originally Posted By scottryan:
Can you post more pics of the HRA correct? What was the TE/MW?


Scott



I don't have any gauges to check TE or MW at the moment. I'll try to remember to order some gauges the next time I buy some accessories. Just when I thought I had everything I needed...

As for pictures, I've posted all I have taken so far. If there are any particular views you'd like to see, let me know and I'll try to post some more in the next day or so.



The TE/MW should be on the data sheet that came with the rifle.

The data sheet is inside the buttstock.


Scott
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 8:25:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By rwsduc:

Thanks for the insight here. My SA field grade is a Greek return that has a serial number on the underside of the stock, on the top right side (covered by the receiver), and inside the forend portion on a label with words like Skytte & Kampviser, along with "HTK" and what appears to be windage and elevation information for 300 meters followed by "Klik". All that (useless info?) said, is this stock just a run of the mill beat up Greek stock that is "safe" to attempt to refinish, or is it prudent to leave it as is and learn to like the looks of it?



The news flash is that the CMP is not above swapping a part or stock during inspection or the creation of a Correct rifle.

The HRA was probably force matched but no one will ever know it, Who cares! You have great HRA with correct looking wood and beater SA to shoot. Of all the places Garands went before getting to the CMP, Denmark was one of them. Skytte & Kampviser does not look like Greek to me. It sounds like wood from a woodless Dane that got slapped together at the CMP. It is a replacement stock for the original SA any way. No loss of collectable there. Fix it up. I do recommend getting some $20.00 beater stocks to experiment with.

If you ever have a thought about messing with the HRA stock PM me and I will talk you out of it. No purple power or stripper. It is possible to clean and maintain it without those things. To avoid a long post go join this forum and fill up before doing.

p102.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm34

JR
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 5:14:23 AM EDT
Scott

The TE/MW should be on the data sheet that came with the rifle.

The data sheet is inside the buttstock.

Scott


I double checked inside the buttstock (empty) and the paperwork in the enclosed plastic bag. Unless I'm overlooking the obvious, I don't see anything stating the TE/MW.
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 6:25:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2006 6:26:09 AM EDT by scottryan]

Originally Posted By rwsduc:
Scott

The TE/MW should be on the data sheet that came with the rifle.

The data sheet is inside the buttstock.

Scott


I double checked inside the buttstock (empty) and the paperwork in the enclosed plastic bag. Unless I'm overlooking the obvious, I don't see anything stating the TE/MW.



Interesting. I don't know what to say. Maybe look under the foam in the box?
Link Posted: 2/2/2006 10:19:25 AM EDT

Originally Posted By scottryan:

Originally Posted By rwsduc:
Scott

The TE/MW should be on the data sheet that came with the rifle.

The data sheet is inside the buttstock.

Scott


I double checked inside the buttstock (empty) and the paperwork in the enclosed plastic bag. Unless I'm overlooking the obvious, I don't see anything stating the TE/MW.



Interesting. I don't know what to say. Maybe look under the foam in the box?



I looked there too, guess I'll have to climb down off the wallet to buy some gauges.
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