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Posted: 7/20/2003 12:40:27 PM EDT

I shot 3 bandoleers of the "P" stamped Korean ammo. It shot fine. I cleaned with Windex, bore cleaner, and CLP and put in the safe for 3 weeks. Checked it today and the barrel is sandpaper. Brown flaky stuff proves it was corrosive ammo.

I am pissed...

Link Posted: 7/20/2003 12:48:31 PM EDT
I would be too.
Link Posted: 7/20/2003 12:54:36 PM EDT
Holy shit! Where'd you get the ammo?
Link Posted: 7/20/2003 1:04:15 PM EDT
Man I hate it when that happens, some more info on this ammo www.battlerifles.com/viewtopic.php?t=12903&highlight=korean
Link Posted: 7/20/2003 1:07:59 PM EDT

I bought a can of 400 of this stuff, and have neglected to shoot it because it was kinda tarnished. Is there any way to tell WHICH lots are corrosive, and which aren't?hell, now I don't wanna put it thru my M1.
Link Posted: 7/20/2003 1:34:28 PM EDT

The "KA" stamped stuff has been reported corrosive. I cleaned with Windex even though I shot the "PM" stuff.

I don't understand it.

Anyway, I think I'm going to go with the NEW Olympic or PMC stuff from now on.


Link Posted: 7/20/2003 2:24:21 PM EDT
Stay away from Olympic ammunition. I bought a box to try in my Garand. The weapon was workimg fine with Remington UMC. When I tried the Olympic ammunition, the extractor blew out of the bolt and the bolt lug came out of the operating rod. We checked the brass, it looked like someone made the rims with a hammer, they were very rough. We tried one round in my friends bolt action. It was very difficult to chamber. I will not buy any of this junk again.
Link Posted: 7/20/2003 2:24:58 PM EDT
Shooting corrosive primed ammo requires daily cleaning for several days afterwards. Unless you get all the copper out the ammonia has no way of getting to the plated over corrosive salts.

Cleaning once and putting away won't do it. As this message illustrates.

-- Chuck
Link Posted: 7/20/2003 3:02:30 PM EDT
I've had a can of 30-06 ammo (250rds) for 3-1/2 years now but nobody knows who made it so I won't shoot it.

Could you tell us what the markings are on the case head for that korean stuff.I may have some and not know it.
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 5:28:19 AM EDT
that really fricking sucks, that is not a cheap gun, i would be pissed, was this advertised as corrosive
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 8:08:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/21/2003 8:08:27 AM EDT by raf]
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 9:28:24 AM EDT
I have shot several hundred rounds of the PS stamped Korean ammo with no problems at all... it it hotter ammo and I have only cleaned the barrel on the 2 Garands that I have shot the PS stamped stuff through... and no rust or anything else......
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 11:51:44 AM EDT
Korean ammo didn't ruin your M-1 sir. You did.
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 12:07:41 PM EDT
Some lots of the ammo are known to be corrosive. When in doubt, just give the rifle a nice warm sopay bath, clean and oil well. You will have no problem after that. I've been shooting corrosive ammo for years, I've never once had a problem.
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 3:45:01 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Chuck:
Shooting corrosive primed ammo requires daily cleaning for several days afterwards. Unless you get all the copper out the ammonia has no way of getting to the plated over corrosive salts.

Cleaning once and putting away won't do it. As this message illustrates.

-- Chuck



I guess this is all the more reason to use something like Butch's Bore Shine or another amonia based copper remover. Kills two birds with one stone.
Link Posted: 7/21/2003 4:03:48 PM EDT
I just checked my M-1 after fireing 100 rounds through it two weeks ago. I shot the PS 75 ammo and my bore is fine.
Link Posted: 7/29/2003 4:23:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/29/2003 4:24:35 AM EDT by WTFBILLY]
Don't be afraid of corrosive ammo! Shoot it! And enjoy your rifle. Remember corrosive ammo is all the US military had until the 1950's. And most other countries long after that. The trick is to clean, clean and reclean. The Army (and other services) used to teach that after a day at the range you would clean your rifle and then clean again everyday for the next three days. You can do it once and be done with it. The windex trick is good, but Hot soapy water is the trick. Don't be scared these rifles wern't made to be safe queens. They are battle rifles. You know,days and weeks in the mud,dirt,snow, rain ect. Just strip your rifle and give it a good hot bath. The hot water will neutralize the corrosive primer salts and your fears are gone. Then clean and oil as normal. You will never have a problem. We have gotten spoiled by the quick clean up of modern ammo.
Link Posted: 7/29/2003 2:13:48 PM EDT
use pamolive not windex. I shoot that stuff in my 1903A3 and only clean it with a boresnake. No corrosion yet.
GG
Link Posted: 7/30/2003 8:43:33 AM EDT
I have some surplus .30-06 that was belted that I think might be corrosive even though the seller said it wasn't and when I posted the lot number and head stamp info here at arfcom I was told it wasn't, but I got some minor rusting from it.
Does the Hoppes copper solvent have ammonia in it? That's what I've been using since I first noticed the rust and so far I haven't had any more.
Link Posted: 7/31/2003 5:17:26 AM EDT
What kind of bore cleaner did you use? You should use a good copper solvent like Butch's Boreshine or even a stronger Sweets 7.62. The windex/soapy water/water-ammonia mixture is good for disolving salt particles on the surface of your bore. But everytime you shoot a corrosive round, there is a copper residue being plated on the top of the previous layer which may already contain some salt from previous rounds fired. If you dont remove these layers of copper completely and immediately, then the bore will be rusted w/o you even knowing it.

Also, windex or other salt disolving agent you use contains water! Make sure you get the water out completely before moving to the next step of cleaning. After washing the surface salt out, just wet your barrel thoroughly using a good copper solvent (no, Hoppe's #9 is not a copper solvent, but Hoppe's BR is). Let is sit for 30 minutes or so. The chemical will break down the copper residue in the bore. Then use a bronze bore brush soaked with copper solvent, give it a good stroke 5-10 times depending how much ammo you shot. Run dry patches until it comes out clean. Then apply some oil as preservatives .... done. I have been shooting corrosive ammo out of my C&R guns for 5 years at least, including 8mm FN49. I ruined one barrel because I took the word of the gun dealer who sold me some Yugo 8mm ammo and claimed it as non-corrosive. It was an expensive lesson to learn, but I learned it well: no more ruined barrel since then.

Also clean your gas cylinder, bolt face and op-rod piston if you shoot corrosive ammo out of your M1.
Link Posted: 8/2/2003 5:35:05 AM EDT

I used Windex, Shooter's choice lead remover, and CLP.

I bought some Casey's 2 in 1 bore scrubber. It seems to be stronger, it actually burned my skin when I touch it!

Anyways, lesson learned.

Just gives me a reason to buy a couple more M1s.

Link Posted: 8/7/2003 11:14:22 AM EDT
SAME THING happened to me!!!I am thinking about a rebarrel now...She shot 1.5 MOA when I got her from the CMP. All I was gonna do was get some new furniture and a repark but now I dunno...Let me know how are you gonna restore your barrel...I had the same brown fluufy stuff....
Renny
Link Posted: 8/9/2003 1:44:17 PM EDT

I'm just gonna buy another M1.

By the time you rebarrel, you could pay for a new rifle.

Link Posted: 8/21/2003 5:19:14 PM EDT
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I was always told that the easiest way to check for corrosive ammo was to take a round, pull the projectile and empty the powder. Stand the empty casing up on a sheet of steel and "punch" the primer. Wait a day or two and then look for the corrosive effects on that sheet of steel.
Link Posted: 8/22/2003 9:41:34 PM EDT
MP906
Before you give up on your m1 go here:


http://pub113.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm54
There's several threads on how to restore and clean rusted and dark bores.
Link Posted: 8/23/2003 3:57:32 PM EDT
MP,

the bore may look rough, but it does not mean it no longer holds the group. My first Garand is a Blue Sky import from Korea. The bore looks no better than an old sewer pipe. The bore surface is rough, pitted, dark, you name it. But the muzzle is still tight and it still holds its own in various Garand matches. I took 1st and 2nd places in at least 3 matches shooting this gun. I remember how the hard core garand collectors laughed at my M1 when they found out that it was a Blue Sky .... but they went silenced when they learned that the Blue Sky took 2nd place that day ...

Just take it out and shoot it, if it still shoots well, leave it as it is ... Shoot it till the bore is completely shot, then you can start thinking about rebarelling it.
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