Would this actually maintain a seal if a can was setup like this?
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I don't know, but I would be worried about 2 things.

1. Not knowing If one or both o rings rolled and became un captured upon install
2. If a failure were to happen it would be directed right at your face.

Not really worried about the failure. If I could space it correctly on say something like a 16" AR15 and have it nearly butted up against the gas block it should be pretty decent. Especially since that area is a standardized area on most barrels at .750 or .625. A lightweight barrel would allow for even more gas expansion as well. As for the orings rolling. If they are thick enough and deep enough into the endcap, I wouldn't imagine that being an issue.


This is all theory at this point and might be something I experiment with at my SOT's place of business or if the HPA ever were to pass.

Theory can be useful to talk about on these items.

Yes, it can work. I have a reflex design almost identical, but I used a single o-ring. You only need to compress the o-ring about 5%, anymore and it can be compromised. Also, I used a Kalrez o-ring. Their expensive as hell, but they can withstand higher temp and I got them for free. There's another way to seal it, without rings,but you need a lot more longitudinal material.

The reflex volume will greatly reduce the pressures that the rings will see. I'd keep my barrel OD to rear cap ID as tight as possible. 2thou around, if you can hold it.

I had even considered an o-ring on the back face that would seal up against the gas block. I have a spare 9mm PSA 10" barrel it's got a band on the barrel meant for a gas block to be clamped incase you wanted to run traditional handguards. It makes me think that maybe doing it the other direction and having it forced up against that would be ideal as it would also act as a shoulder for the can to be tightened against. However that would only really work for a barrel without a gas block as gas blocks are variable depending on brand and style, Most GB's are too small for a reasonable surface with an o-ring as well.

I have had some ideas on how to make this work and it seems pretty easy overall as long as you have a lathe. making a pined and welded setup out of a 5.56 or 9mm to get to the 16OAL would be on my bucket list.


How much space is needed from the tip of the muzzle to the exit of the can is needed to reasonably work well still. Is 4" enough if the can has a HUGE reflex chamber.

You could make it butt against the gas block, but then you're relying on the o-ring staying in place before it seats. Using an interior groove would eliminate that.

You have yet to divulge caliber, ammunition velocity, and baffle type so estimating necessary dimensions won't be easy.

While the T8 Scout Reflex suppressor only extended 4" passed the muzzle, it had a large OD and they were allowed to test, redesign, repeat. The baffles were also stamped and didn't take up much room or add significant weight. Reflex designs are cool, but do not make up for baffles in front of the muzzle. Were you planning to add copper mesh or any sort of dampening material to the reflex portion?

If you use a small brake, like the minimalist, and squeeze as many baffles in front of the muzzle, you may be able to come out with a decent design. I'd think about adding another inch and giving yourself the ability to add 2 more baffles.

Definitely doable. You definitely won't be overgassed

See the last post.

5.56 and 9mm are my primary's.

Was thinking something as simple as copper mesh in the reflex portion.

I have a friend who has mentioned interest in becoming a 02/07sot again. If he does and I get the option to go in on the buinsess with him, I can do all the r&d I want. That's ideal to me. As well as access to a full machine shop and its useful equipment. We talked about building inexpensive cams to see how cheap we could get them put together. This would just be a fun side project. It it wwors out well I'd buy it and form 4 it to my safe at home.

Either way. I like the reflex setup. I had considered something similar in shape to the old sionics setup with a large reflex portion.

Sorry, I thought those were what if calibers.

Cheap cans?

You can come out with a decent design. Just remember, baffles in front trumps air behind.

I have a Form 1 reflex can, 10" tube with 3" of it over the barrel and Rusty made a press fit/set screw mount for it instead of using a traditional OTB mount. It has 7 baffles, a few 1/4" spacers between the cones and a spacer for the OTB portion.  It's on a 12.5" 5.56 SBR.





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