I have all my parts and form 1 back now I need to start building. What do you folks use to form your freeze plugs? Whats the best method? Do I have to buy a special tool?

Thanks.

The best thing to do is not use freeze plugs. Maybe 2-3 years ago that was the only choice, but there are so many other options theses days that FPs just don't make sense.

Thanks for your unsolicited opinion against using freeze plugs, but I would like an answer to my question.

Amazon, the tool, a vise.


You will also notice a variety of baffles on amazon and ebay.

J&S tactical jig.  Got one for D and C cells.

This.

Your quite welcome. Enjoy your, loud heavy can sir.

I just used a sturdy vise and a plum bob. Worked fine for me. They are centered-ish.

I don't know about the loud part. I have 2 cans with zmachine cones and 2 with freeze plugs. And the plugs are just as quiet as the cones.
But for longevity cones are the way.

OP if you are stuck on plugs Badger Ridge sells preformed stainless plugs.

Well what would you recommend? I already have a SD tactical 7.6" ti tube with end caps that connect to the SD tactical muzzle brake. Can will mostly be used for 9mm, but also 300 blk too.

I used a socket, vise and a lathe center, worked mostly. Had a few that formed off center so they got destroyed.

lol both of mine are a little heavy but far from loud.

Plugs are more durable than people think. Possibly a little heavier since you often add a few more vs cones. 

I don't know what caliber,  mine is .30. I took a copper 1-1/8 coupling which fit nicely inside the Sealed Power 34.3mm FP and inserted a 1-1/8 forsner dril bit to center punch. I drilled a 3/32 hole. I checked center by spinning the FP and verifying the hole didn't wobble. I put each baffle (ATF defines any drilled FP as a baffle) on the coupling and using a 45* puller center (Harbor Freight wheel puller kit) in vise,  squeezed until the center was fully seated and I had a 45* come formed. At this point, the hole is still too small and if you don't maintain perfect alignment, the hole might be off center. I found that rotating the baffle/center and checking and correcting alignment every half turn on the vise helped. I then replaced the 45* center with a cheap HF plumb bob with a steep angle and using the same alignment adjusting technique, enlarged the hole til a 23/64 drill bit would pass. After assembly I chased the holes with the same bit from both ends just to be sure. I checked bore alignment with a GoldTip carbon fiber arrow shaft that needed one thickness of packing tape to snug up. Destroy any rejected "baffles" prior to first shot. I just squeezed them out of shape and threw them away. 

This was my procedure I kind of adapted from several sources. 

Mine is "stupid" quiet on my 8 inch 300BO and my 10 inch T/C Contender in .222 sounds like a 22LR.

I'd like to thank you for your input to this and SD Tactical forum when I was building mine. 

Freeze plugs will work fine.  And they will last quite awhile.  Until cnc machines got cheap a lot of commercial cans looked like freeze plug baffles or washers.  Russian cans do to.

I helped a buddy build several cans.  We ended up building a jig but it wasn't required.  Drilled plugs with small drill bit.  Then placed a plug over a socket that was a slip fit.  Used a large ball bearing over an inch in diameter to do first press and form on a hydraulic press.  Then used a cone from a gear puller or large brake line cone flare.  Then used a 60 degree center finder.  Applied grease on cones before forming to minimize tearing.  

Dorman plugs would form with less force but also would not form as deep a cone without ripping.  The sealed power plugs took more force but also did not rip as often.  We did one can with stainless steel plugs and just welded the plugs together with a lathe turned thread adapter with front volume for blast baffle

Attached File


Attached File

These are one option -

https://www.zmachineworx.com

Venom and DM also have options available. The best place to research that is form1suppressor.boards.net.

Another option is VSRs.

There is just so many options that perform better and have greater durability than FPs. They are more expensive, but you can get a can that are as good or better than commercial offerings.

This was the best that we could do with common tools and the plugs.  However I would like to not we could not notice a difference between these and the ones just done to 45deg.  This process used a socket wrench, a flaring kit that was purchased from auto parts store for $21 (it could have been borrowed free), and the cone out of a drywall gun kit from Lowes (about $4.97).

Freeze Plug cans I have shot and observed had fairly significant wear in short order, like 400-500 rds.  Not abused just causal shooting.  I would advocate other choices.  Currently the Zmachine and DM Radial cones.  I have the Radials, 60s, Rusty's 60s (not tested yet), VSRs and monocores.  If your are going ahead with the freeze plug cans (I do not recommend) for 5.56 I would build a 30cal can with the plugs, it will mask the POI shifts and wear a lot.

While I tend to agree with this statement, my first F1 with formed freeze plugs out performs my cans with turned baffles. Plus, the list of suppliers are dwindling and wait times for parts are getting outrageous.

To the OP, the forming tool JS Tactical sells is the way to go if doing FPs. Just make sure to have extra on hand as inevitably you will need to trash some of them.

I have 4 freeze plug cans, they are all over a year old now and some closing in on two years. They all perform great and I use them regularly. The die from j&s tactical is the way to go for freeze plugs. And with some spacer tubing , you can build you a good reliable suppressor, with very little cash. You do not have to buy fancy stainless or titanium canes to have a good performing reliable tool for your rifle or pistol. Ymmv but that's my opinion.