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Posted: 9/4/2017 9:37:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Most likely the bedding is based on an expoxy matrix filled with particles of glass, steel, aluminum, titanium, or a handful of other materials.
Heat won't do anything but soften the epoxy, and it will also soften the stock, probably to its detriment if you could get the bedding hot enough to make it soft enough to dig out. PYou won't be able to get it soft enough to do more than make a dent with the end of a chisel. Cured epoxy is inert to all common solvents. That leaves grinding the bedding out mechanically. It's a lot of work, but possible. Talk to the guy that did the bedding job, he might fix the problem. If the gun is shooting great, you might consider just leaving it alone. If it's mediocre, maybe the bedding is the culprit. What are the details about the barreled action? Is the barrel square to the receiver? What is the difference in the gaps? Is the stock straight? |
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Posted: 9/5/2017 1:49:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Leave it alone and shoot it
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Posted: 9/5/2017 1:50:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Cured epoxy is inert to all common solvents. Slightly warmed MEK attacks it. Hot water warmed. We used it for years to dissolve epoxy based potting compound. If you left it for to long it dissolved the epoxy in the PC board material leaving fiberglass and copper only. It also dissolved plenty of part coating that was epoxy based. |
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Posted: 9/5/2017 3:14:53 PM EDT
[#4]
I tried MEK on Hysol 9410 adhesive many moons past and got absolutely nowhere. But I am interested in giving it another try on common unfilled 5 and 30 minute epoxies.
I still have nearly a gallon of the 9410. I wonder if the asbestos filler has settled to the bottom of the can. That stuff was difficult to use, a steel spatula was needed to scoop a gob out of the can, then a tiny bit of catalyst was added. The mixture was fairly runny after the catalyst was added. Careful measurement was required, plenty of stirring, and not too much in the cup as it loved to exotherm. I took a class around 2000 that included a couple of men from Oregon. They could not buy MEK in that state. |
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Posted: 9/5/2017 3:28:18 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Leave it alone and shoot it Will write more this evening. |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 2:02:13 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tried MEK on Hysol 9410 adhesive many moons past and got absolutely nowhere. But I am interested in giving it another try on common unfilled 5 and 30 minute epoxies. The 'trick' was the warming. We used it under a fume hood since it boils at about 175 F so there is a lot of vapor pressure (evaporation) at 140 F. MEK is easy to ignite but the explosive range is around 1% to 11% in air. At home outdoors would be a good idea, maybe with even a fan blowing towards it. |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 8:54:53 PM EDT
[#7]
Most of the gunsmiths I knew that built bedded Match rifles removed the old epoxy when doing a rebuild.
They all used mechanical means. Specifically a coarse cutter bit in a flex shaft or Dremel tool. Note that grinding stones and the typical Dremel type carbide burrs usually won't do. Stones load up and stop working, the carbide bits tend to heat up and start melting instead of cutting. I think most of them used specialty toothed cutters similar to these: Cutter bits The bits for wood and rubber are the ones. These have very coarse teeth that eat into softer materials fast. Wear a respirator, epoxy fumes are not good to inhale. Also, these make a real mess from the snow-like shavings of epoxy, so keep a shop vac handy to hold the mess down so you can see the work area. Do this in a well-braced position so the bit can't "run away" and start cutting wood. |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 9:31:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It needs to be warmed to about 140 F. The 'trick' was the warming. We used it under a fume hood since it boils at about 175 F so there is a lot of vapor pressure (evaporation) at 140 F. MEK is easy to ignite but the explosive range is around 1% to 11% in air. At home outdoors would be a good idea, maybe with even a fan blowing towards it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I tried MEK on Hysol 9410 adhesive many moons past and got absolutely nowhere. But I am interested in giving it another try on common unfilled 5 and 30 minute epoxies. The 'trick' was the warming. We used it under a fume hood since it boils at about 175 F so there is a lot of vapor pressure (evaporation) at 140 F. MEK is easy to ignite but the explosive range is around 1% to 11% in air. At home outdoors would be a good idea, maybe with even a fan blowing towards it. I have several burrs for a Dremel tool, and I also own a monster electric die grinder that accepts 1/4 inch shanks. Grind on bedding outside if possible. 140F is close to the glass transition temperature of some epoxies cured at room temperature. Heating a stock made with epoxy could result in a disaster if the stock becomes permanently warped. |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 11:44:17 PM EDT
[#9]
Like I said earlier, the rifle shoots fine. But there is a level of craftsmanship missing that I would have done myself, except I have never bedded an action before and the stock was a brand new Manners T2A @ $850 or so. I was referred to "the place" to get the bedding done, which cost $260. That's damn bloody expensive, and now I have $1110 into a stock. That's unconscionable, but that's the precision game.
You know how you buy something and really want to like it but someone jacks it up and now you don't like the thing nearly as much? That's where I am. I'll get over it, and maybe learn how to bed my own action from this experience. I'll have all winter soon enough. |
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Posted: 9/9/2017 9:14:12 PM EDT
[#10]
I bed my own rifles, for better or worse, because I'm cheap, and just want something that works.
But if I had paid someone $260 to bed a rifle into an $850 stock, I would expect, and demand, top quality work. Your smith has proved he can make the rifle shoot, I'd ask him to make look right too. He want's to work at that level and have a good reputation, he should make you happy. If I was going to remove the bedding, I would be hesitant to use a solvent, any solvent capable of dissolving cured epoxy runs the risk of damaging the stock as well. Seems mechanical means as recommended would be safer. |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 5:43:17 PM EDT
[#11]
A milling machine would be nice.
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Posted: 10/1/2017 8:11:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A milling machine would be nice. |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 5:00:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wish. I wonder if Manners provides that service. Just chuck the stock back into the original fixture and buzz shave the receiver channel. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
A milling machine would be nice. I routinely use them to remove epoxy squeeze out in a Foredom tool. The tooth pitch and angle works well. An aluminum cutter has similar characteristics. I use aluminum cutters on wood in my mill. |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 9:07:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wood cutting bits for a hand tool would be most suitable. I routinely use them to remove epoxy squeeze out in a Foredom tool. The tooth pitch and angle works well. An aluminum cutter has similar characteristics. I use aluminum cutters on wood in my mill. |
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