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Is that the HBI rail?
I was going to go integrally suppressed (with a CZ carbine handguard) but that Micro-K... |
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Quoted:
Is that the HBI rail? I was going to go integrally suppressed (with a CZ carbine handguard) but that Micro-K... View Quote |
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All, right: I'm convinced. After all, we SBRed these things for a reason; might as well get the most (or least) out of our $200/$400.
I actually asked Rob @ILWT a few questions right after I saw your post and he answered them almost immediately. I assume I'll need HBI's barrel wrench to get the barrel out, correct? Off to place my orders. Thanks! |
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All, right: I'm convinced. After all, we SBRed these things for a reason; might as well get the most (or least) out of our $200/$400. I actually asked Rob @ILWT a few questions right after I saw your post and he answered them almost immediately. I assume I'll need HBI's barrel wrench to get the barrel out, correct? Off to place my orders. Thanks! View Quote |
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I replaced the factory barrel that was really poorly threaded with an ILWT barrel. It pissed me off at the time but that barrel is way more accurate than the original and the Griffin 3 lug has a perfect fit.
Nice rig BTW. |
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Anyone know if ILWT makes a slightly longer K barrel? I want to run basically the same setup but don't want the Omega 9k to be under the handguard at all. Looks like the barrel would need to be another 3/4" longer for my liking.
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Anyone know if ILWT makes a slightly longer K barrel? I want to run basically the same setup but don't want the Omega 9k to be under the handguard at all. Looks like the barrel would need to be another 3/4" longer for my liking. View Quote |
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man, tempted to make my sbr evo an sbr K evo. Thanks for the info for the barrel
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Quoted:
All, right: I'm convinced. After all, we SBRed these things for a reason; might as well get the most (or least) out of our $200/$400. I actually asked Rob @ILWT a few questions right after I saw your post and he answered them almost immediately. I assume I'll need HBI's barrel wrench to get the barrel out, correct? Off to place my orders. Thanks! View Quote |
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Do you have a photo by any chance? View Quote |
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Just the one without the can. I'll see if I can get another. ILWT has some good pics on their site too that may show it better than the one I posted. I actually purchased the CZ carbine comp for the 1/2x28 threads to run on the gun when I'm not running the suppressor. It should look nice out the front. View Quote |
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The barrel is HK Navy style meaning the 3 lug is part of the barrel and the threads are in front of the lugs under a thread protector. This puts the threads outside the handguard.
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Did you need any special tools to remove factory barrel or install new barrel?
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Did you need any special tools to remove factory barrel or install new barrel? View Quote The Op had a pretty easy time with his barrel nut and mine was the opposite. |
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Not to install but getting the factory barrel off was a PIA. Get the HBI wrench. I used a regular wrench until the threads got fubar from slipping off and then grunted it out the rest of the way with a vise grips. Mine also had solid loctite all the way through the nut which I soaked in debonder for a day and a half. Some have very little loctite. The Op had a pretty easy time with his barrel nut and mine was the opposite. View Quote |
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I bought the barrel trunnion assembly as well but if the barrel nut is not turned out enough the forearm assembly is not able to move forward enough to clear the clamshell to access the trunnion. After the work I thought I had a dipshiddity moment but not so much. I still could have missed something possibly.
Edit note: Mine is a gen2 with 1/2-28 threads but the Goobers were full time on my gun as the shoulder of the threads was radiused badly. Thankfully I tested it with a rod at the shop I transfer through. On both the 3 lug and direct thread on factory barrel adapters it scraped 12:00 position through the suppressor. This would cause multiple baffle strikes to which I couldn't hold the can mfgr to account. |
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You might get better results with a comp that has cuts on the top to counteract the muzzle climb on the M11.
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You might get better results with a comp that has cuts on the top to counteract the muzzle climb on the M11. View Quote |
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CaptShiess,
When you changed the barrel out did you separate the two polymer halves of the upper, remove the trunion, then remove the barrel from the trunion? Or just remove the handguard, and remove the barrel? I watched a few Youtube videos, and I think a complete breakdown of the gun is needed, not a lot of effort, just a bit more PITA. NEVERMIND, I looked at the ILWT website, total disassembly is it as the trunion is already attached to the barrel. |
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CaptShiess, When you changed the barrel out did you separate the two polymer halves of the upper, remove the trunion, then remove the barrel from the trunion? Or just remove the handguard, and remove the barrel? I watched a few Youtube videos, and I think a complete breakdown of the gun is needed, not a lot of effort, just a bit more PITA. NEVERMIND, I looked at the ILWT website, total disassembly is it as the trunion is already attached to the barrel. View Quote |
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Have you tried mounting an m-lok vertical grip behind the hand stop? Does the micro-k rail provide enough mounting space for both?
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I am an idiot and need help.
My ILWT barrel/trunnion assembly arrived today, but I cannot get the handguard off, I can't find a Gen-2 video or instructions online. All screws are out, I see no reason the handguard won't come off. I tried giving it a twist, pulling straight off, and even tapped with a rubber hammer. Do I just need more force? Bigger hammer? Work out more? All the prior? |
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It pulls straight off once you remove the barrel nut. It can't twist due to the alignment tab. It can't be removed by disassembling the receiver. You must remove the barrel nut, no exceptions.
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It pulls straight off once you remove the barrel nut. It can't twist due to the alignment tab. It can't be removed by disassembling the receiver. You must remove the barrel nut, no exceptions. View Quote |
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Quoted:That's not true, after fighting with my barrel nut I just used a hack saw to section the OEM handguard so that I could pull it forward. It took all of 10 minutes and all I'm out is a part with little value I was never going to use again anyways. View Quote |
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I got it off earlier today after looking at the schematic, then read the your replys.
Thanks for the help, the round metal ring was in tight and I think that is what was holding it up. I had pulled off the little spring type thing that holds the flash suppressor from turning, I thought that was the piece removed in the video I watched. I need close up pictures to know what part is what. Before I put it all back together I am waiting on the Parker Machine 1/4" sling mounts to arrive so I do not need to take anything apart. BTW, damn loctite must have been on sale, there was a bunch, I just used a regular 20mm wrench from the tool box. |
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Same for mine. So much locktite. Somehow it physically got hot just from removing it!
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Anyone had issues with 165gr ammo not stabilizing out of this barrel?
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