There were a couple people asking about the Snap Safe so here is a very brief review.

EDIT: I should have waited to write the full review, apparently several of the bolt holes were not drilled in the right spot and I can't get the final piece together. Will have to contact them tomorrow and see what their plan on resolving the issue is. I can grind the holes larger but that's not exactly something I should have to do ....

EDIT 2: They are sending me a new back panel, hopefully that resolves the issue. FWIW theyre customer service seems helpful. The company was just acquired by Hornady so im sure that's what helps.

EDIT 3: It fits! The back plate arrived and after a few smacks with a rubber mallet it all went together. Once bolted together and assembled it seems pretty solid. If I have some time I might test the extra back body panel against various attacks to see how the steel holds up. I don't have torches or heavy grinding wheels but a safe like this really isn't designed for those anyways, im thinking, sledge hammers, axes, crow bar and a hacksaw, basically common tools people might have laying around the house a criminal could use,


SNAP SAFE TITAN

How it was delivered
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Contents
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Floor Plate - If you look at the pre-drilled holes you can see the double sheet metal construction. Also notice the tack welds in the center, lack of welding at the joints, and how the internal supports (sides where the bolts connect) are a single sheet of 0.08" steel.
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Door with the carpeted board removed showing the internals, its a pretty simple design.
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Close up of the door mechanics. Notice the hollow bolts crimped in place and only spot welded. The internal mechanisms are all 0.08" thick steel.
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Specs and measurements
The door steel is listed as 0.185" (3/16") but measured 0.20" thick
The exterior steel is listed as 0.150" (9 ga steel) but measured 0.160" Combined thickness (its actually two thinner pieces of 0.08" thick sheet metal welder together)
Most of the interior steel is 0.08" thick

Likes:
The door is set into the frame, making it more pry resistant.
The gap between the door and frame is small enough to prevent the use of a pry bar on the door.
The walls and door are thicker than most big box store safes which are in the 12 to 16 ga range. 10 ga is considered to be the minimum thickness to stop non-power tool attacks.
Comes delivered in a discrete box. The truck driver asked what it was and I said "Its some kitchen appliances for the wife" he laughed and said "I bet she will make you put all that together too!" I'm pretty sure he had no clue it was a safe.

Dislikes:
I was disappointed with the exterior walls, they are not solid 9 ga steel, they are two sheets of 0.08" steel tack welded together in a few spots to make a overall thickness of 9 ga (0.15"). I feel this is borderline false advertising, as the layered construction will have significantly less strength.
They use spot welds every 6-9" apart, not continuous welds.
The door bolts are hollow and are just crimped, seems like they could be pulled out or even smashed with enough prying force.

Conclusion:
Im a little disappointed at the quality of the safe, especially for $1148, I expected solid bolts and continuous welds or at least closer and more frequent welds. A few small changes in the design would take this safe from OKAY to GREAT.

Im going to keep it but I would recommend only considering this safe if a modular safe is your only option. For a couple hundred extra dollars you could get a Sturdy safe, which appears to be a higher quality safe. The Titan Snap Safe falls victim to the same flaws big box store safes have...the manufacturers are more worried about it LOOKING like a safe and not it PERFORMING like a safe. With that said I feel its durable enough to handle most non-power tool attacks, just make sure to bolt it down as its only 385 lbs. EDIT 2: After further inspection I have changed my mind, it is really no better than any other big box store Chinese made safe. It is made of thin sheet metal, lacks quality welds, and has terrible tolerances for fitting pieces together.  I secured mine in the corner of small closet, protecting two of the three thinner exterior walls and making the use of large prying or swinging tools difficult due to the limited space around it.

For those who need the flexibility of a modular safe I would give it a 7/10, for those who don't I would say its a 4/10.
Based on the size, quality of construction, minimal fire rating, and being made in China, I would say its roughly equivalent to a small and cheaply made $500 gun cabinet you might find at a big box store, most gun ranges, etc... Youre paying an additional $600 for the modular design.

That's gotta be unfortunate to find out all of that stuff.  

Thank you for taking the time to put together such a detailed review.

A close friend bought a large Snap safe, and I helped him put it together. I am usually a handy and adept guy at assembling things. I have assembled various things since building models as a kid many many years ago. Bit, this safe was a BIOTCH to put together and the loose lining material would  not all stay in place until final assembly. It would have went together nicely in ZERO G GRAVITY! Instructions were overly simplistic and vague too.

I wouldn't buy one.

That is an excellent review, I have kicking around buying one because of the difficulty of getting a decent safe upstairs.  Now I really know what I would be getting.

I wonder if they will change, since they are part of Hornady?

One of several bolt holes that are off by as much as 1/4"

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Thanks for posting this! A few of the recent threads had me looking hard at these and it was difficult to get real answers off the websites.  Based on what you have posted I am going to stay away, as I dont "need" a modular.

Buddy has a zanotti.  Went together well and looks good

Yes, they are very good at "Marketing"

Like you I found it difficult to find any decent info on the safe. There were a couple youtube videos from the company on how to put it together, nothing about the quality, close ups of the welds, bolts, internal parts, etc... I passed it off as it being a newer product and getting a lot of attention, modular safes are sort of a niche market. I think the real issue is its at best a mediocre safe. Its not good enough for someone to bother going out and writing an awesome review nor is it terrible enough in most cases to warrant someone putting together a scolding review.

This is def not a safe. If I actually ever get it put together I would consider it a gun cabinet, it will keep honest people honest and it combined with an alarm system should be enough to slow down your average criminal long enough for the cops to get there. It will do for now, and Im sure I will appreciate the modularity when I move. But once I get to my next home it will probably get downgraded to ammo storage and I will purchase a real safe.

This would be my choice if I were in the market for a modular safe. Small company with attention to quality and details. At least that's my impression over several years, although I have no personal experience with them. I think the other two companies I am aware of that make modular safes, just tried to copy the original and probably cut a few corners to keep the price down a little. Thanks for the review! Hopefully they will tweak their product a little and make it better as you pointed out some of the issues you see.

I believe one of the differences between the Zanotti and the others is their construction process.  I suspect the others are mass produced.  Stamp this pan, drill holes here, etc.  Zanotti builds their safes as individual units, and are actually assembled at the factory prior to being disassembled and shipped.  

This may explain why the holes line up on a Zanotti, but not the others.  

Love my Zanotti.  Everything lined up great and it has stayed solid even with multiple weekly accesses over more than 8 years.  The LeGard dial requires more torque than it did with new, but I've not been as careful as I should with it.  I need to disassemble the door and sort that out.

I've not had to knock it down for moving yet.  That time may be coming.

I've also recently purchased a SnapSafe, albeit a larger model. Putting it together by myself was a problem and I did experience some difficulty lining up the bolt holes, but nothing a little maneuvering couldn't fix.
On paper, I thought these safes had better stats vs others in this price range. Since I rent I needed/wanted the modular design. Zanotti is probably better, but the wait time is ridiculous.
Overall, I'm good with this safe.
Hope it works out for you too.

Replacement back panel arrived and it all went together with a little help from a rubber mallet. Glad it all worked out and they resolved the issue with minimal effort and didn't cost me a penny.

Thinking I might cut up some of the extra steel I have and use it as extra reinforcement in the side wall that is exposed and use what's left text against various hand tools like a axe, hand saw, etc...

Thanks for posting, not much info out there that I have seen.

What do you think of the Double Door they just came out with?

I can't imagine it being that secure?

I too am really grateful I spent the extra coin on a Zanotti. Sturdy was what I had originally eyed, but I'd have had to get a smaller safe to fit it through the door into the room it's kept.

Does anyone know how this compares with Dakota Modular safes.  Helped a friend set his up, installation was fine, no problems but didnt really pay attention to weld quality and quanity.  We did spend a bunch of time getting everything squared up right.  Seems sturdy to me but I dont know squat about safes.

Thanks for posting this review! Guess I'm looking for a Zanotti or etc if I want a second floor safe I can move myself.Enter your zip code here

Do you know the current wait time?

@Flex81

SNAPSAFE REVIEW -- PART I (Long post and separated into ten sections)

I just got the same Snapsafe Titan as Spartikis and would like to add my experiences and opinions about it:

The crate was very well packaged and everything arrived intact and without damage.  I set everything out and was impressed with the workmanship.  The instructions were simple but adequate.  Don't follow the videos online as they are for previous designs and show a different, and wrong, way to install the last interior panel.  Speaking of previous designs, I did a ton of research on pretty much everything that was to be found about this one and apparently Snapsafe has gone through a lot of changes over the last few years.  The first securing system was with straps and snaps, then they went to bolts with wingnuts, and now they have heavy-duty bolts with standard nuts tightened with a socket wrench.  The thickness has also changed, with 14-gauge standard previously with an upgrade option to 9-gauge (2-ply 14 gauge), but now they all come with walls that are the 2-ply 9-gauge.  There are reviews out there from a few years ago of the 14-gauge models that I don't think represent the present-day model.  Snapsafe was acquired by Hornady about a year-and-a-half ago and when I spoke to their tech support, they said they've made a lot of changes and have made something that was "ok" into something much better.

PART II

After researching a lot of safes, I narrowed my choices down to Zanotti and Snapsafe.  I live in a condo and weight was an issue.  Another reason I went modular besides weight is that I didn't want to have a delivery company with "Brad's Safe Company" on the side of their truck showing up as my neighbors are extremely liberal and extremely nosy.  The final reason I chose modular is that I am unable to drill into the floor of my condo as there is conduit and pipe running there there and I have no map -- I needed a safe that I could drill holes in the back and secure it to the wall.  That's easy with a modular safe, but with a welded one it takes some doing and would possibly damage the interior and ruin the fire rating.

Three reasons I chose the Snapsafe over the Zanotti:  I have very limited space and while the Zanotti would have fit, it's somewhat larger than the Snapsafe and it would have been uncomfortably tight.  The second reason is that Zanotti presently has a back log of about six months.  A third, and lesser, reason is that the Zanottie is about $900 more than the Snapsafe for a similar set up.  I'm still going to spend that extra money, but instead on separate layers of security.

PART III

I then set upon installing the safe.  Since I was securing the safe to the wall, I had to first drill holes in the back, loosely bolted the back to the wall, then built the safe standing as opposed to on the floor as in the instructions.  I got the top-sides-bottom together and they fit with no problem onto the back.  Then came the moment of truth:  Would the front fit, or would I have alignment problems like other have?  I placed the front on to the bolts, pushed, then was amazed at how easily it slipped on.  The bolts and holes on my safe were perfectly aligned.  No mallet, no blocks of wood, no cussing.  I was very pleased.

I then bolted everything down loosely, then went criss-cross and back-and-forth about ten times and tightened it all down very snug.  I was skeptical, but it all fit together extremely tightly.  I cannot get more than 1/8" of the tip of a pocket knife into any of the seams, and except for one small strip not even a razor blade will go between the sections.  Very, very tight.  The bolts and nuts are very heavy duty and it's all very solid.  How it compares to a welded safe of the same gauge of steel, I don't know, but it's stout.

PART IV

On the subject of steel thickness, from what I've read even hardened 1/4" plate is vulnerable to the recent proliferation of portable saws of all types.  Most safes I looked at in my price range were from 14 to 12 gauge steel, including the door.  The Snapsafe has a 3/16" plate door, a big advantage, and the channels of the sections are 14-gauge, with an extra ply welded into the floor, ceiling, and walls to make it 9-gauge.  Nothing short of a high-dollar safe will hold up vs electric tools, but for the typical caveman bludgeon and pry tactics, 9-gauge, even if 2-ply, is a big advantage over 14 or even 12 gauge.  While the corners and channels of the Snapsafe are 14-gauge, there are are three layers of that to get through due to the bolt-together design.  It's seems as though it would be much more work to open a Snapsafe like a sardine can than it would be with other safes.

As far as the bolt works, Spartikis was right that they're pressed in, but they seem to be much more secure than just being attached with a 1/4-20 screw like the bolts of many of the big box safes.  They are hollow for the first portion, but then solid thereafter.  He also mentioned that on his the sliding frame for the bolt works is about 14-gauge, but on mine the sliding frame is much thicker, more like 9 or 10 gauge.

PART V

I did have one major disappointment with my safe:  It has no slip clutch on the inside of the rotating mechanism.  If you look at the photo of the bolt works in Spartikis' review, you'll see a nut on the end of his rotating mechanism.  That is to set the tension on the slip clutch.  Mine has no nut and is welded, which means that an attack with an extension pipe on the spinner handles on the outside of the safe would transfer all that stress directly to the lock mechanism, which while solid, is not designed to take that kind of punishment.  I called tech support and they were incredulous.  They checked the safes they had with them and all had a clutch.  I sent them a photo of mine and they confirmed that, yes, there is no clutch.  They then contacted one of their engineers and were told that it's a new design change, one that they weren't aware of, and that the clutch was removed as they've had problems with it failing and making the safe unopenable.  When I explained to them that it makes the safe susceptible to a handle attack, they agreed.  They said that they had no pieces in stock with the clutch and there was nothing they could do.  I was not happy.  I spoke to them again recently and they said that they're working on a solution -- for whatever that's worth.

PART VI

After much thought and experimentation, I was able to modify some points in the linkage that will shear if a handle attack is attempted.  It's solid enough to operate the bolt works, but if severe leverage is applied to the handles, those shear points will fail long before any of that force would reach the lock mechanism.  A lot of time and effort spent on that -- something that in principle I'm not happy to do, but in reality was actually interesting and fun to figure out and design.  That major disappointment solved.

I actually think my modifications are better than a slip clutch:   Even if the shear points are destroyed and lock out a thief, I've designed it so that I can access the internals and open the safe as long as the combination lock still works.  That's not possible with a failed slip clutch.

Overall the workmanship and fit on the shell, the bolt works, and the door is excellent.  The door swings and is aligned perfectly.  There is only about 3/32" gap between the door and the frame, and is also inset from the frame, which makes pry attacks more difficult.  I have the left side of the safe set against a wall, which also great reduces the range of motion and leverage for any pry attack.

PART VII

Although the fit and finish on the structural parts is excellent, the interior has the feel of something from a dollar store.  It's cheap and brittle, the carpeting is loose and shedding in places, and the alignment for the sections is far from perfect.  But that's mostly apparent only on install and once it's all put together it looks and functions fine.  If they have to cut corners, that's a place where I'm fine with it.

As for the fire rating, I have no knowledge to be able to assess that.  The fire blankets fit in fine, and although there are gaps with no fire blanket, according to Hornady a lot of the fire rating comes from the interior boards.

Setting up the interior with only the rilfe rack and no side shelves, I was able to fit 11 long guns, muzzle up and muzzle down, gun socks preventing damage.  One of the rifles has a scope, and three have extended magazines.  I rigged a generic door pouch and was able to hang two hand guns as well as magazines for each.  The rifle rack makes a nice narrow shelf for magazines.

PART VIII

Pros:

- 3/16" plate door.
- Spring relocker.
- Good mechanical lock
- Solid construction
- Excellent fit and finish

Cons:

- Cheap, sloppy interior
- No drill plate
- No slip clutch (on mine)
- While solid, 9-gauge construction is only on exterior panels and sliding bolt frame.  14-gauge (although in layers) elsewhere.  This, however, due to the multi-layer, may actually be a pro over other 14-12 gauge safes.
- Questionable fire rating.

PART IX

I am thinking of doing an additional modification:  The channel of the door frame that the bolts set against when extended (locked) is 14-gauge steel.  Due to the angles of the channel, and that the the door is inset against the frame, it may be enough to prevent a pry attach, especially if the door is secured upright and the left side set against a wall.  I am, however, thinking of adding 1/2" steel bar or even square steel tubing into that channel, cold-welding it in place with an epoxy.  That should add significant strength, and is an area where they went cheap and that I don't approve of.

As for the price, I got mine for $1101.00, shipped.  You could subtract about $250 from that as the price for most other safes doesn't include shipping.  A lot of big box store safes in that price range do include shipping, but most of them have 12-gauge construction at best, including a much weaker composite door.  Apples-to-apple, the Snapsafe is about an $800-900 safe.  Not a bad price for the modularity, and as I needed to secure mine to the wall, that modularity was a necessity.

PART X

If you have difficulty fitting a standard safe, or nosy neighbors, or move a lot, I highly recommend the Snapsafe.  I agree with Spartikis that a few small changes would vastly improve it, but I disagree with him that it's no better than a big box store safe.  Even though it's 2-ply, the 9-gauge sides are much greater protection against bludgeon attacks and the 3/16" steel plate door is leaps and bounds better that the thin-steel composite doors of safes in the same price range.  The tight fit combined with the multiple layers due to the modularity may make it as, or even more, secure than a welded 14-12 gauge safe.

My initial rating:  8/10
My rating after finding out about the lack of a slip clutch:  5/10
My final rating with the shear point modifications:  8.5/10

Spartikis, if you have any more info or questions or contradictions, please chime in.  I appreciate your review and found it helpful.

On Zanotti - at the time I was looking, I think it was about a year.  Bodrika in the next post mentions 6 months.

That is an excellent write up by the way

Thank you.  Spartikis' review was helpful, and I wanted to contribute.  There's also a good visual review on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfpGULGukUA

You'll notice his safe also lacks a slip clutch.

They have changed the design since I bought mine back in 2012. I would have liked four holes to bolt down my Titan SnapSafe but they only had two holes in the center to bolt the safe down at the time. There were no lights so I bough some two Liberty safe LED lights power by AA batteries and use a Remington dehumidifier that I plug in the wall when the beads turn pink/orange.

Thanks for the in depth review. I'll have the same condo problem in a few months.

You mind detailing how you did your shear point mod?

MOD, PART I

First mod is to simply remove the three handles.  The bolt works are smooth enough to operate just by twisting the spindle hub itself.  That will remove most incentive to use a pry extension.  You could fill in the holes with short M12 bolts if you wanted, and cap the heads for cosmetics.

The first shear point is to remove the set screw in the outside hub & replace it with a weaker material.  I actually used a chopstick cut down to 30mm long, followed with a shorter M8 set screw to hold it in place.  It's a bit of a trick to keep the chopstick in place and inserting the set screw, but it's easily done.  The chopstick I used is about 3/16" in diameter and you could also use wood dowel.  I also experimented with 3/16" x 1" nylon spacers and they also work well.  Whichever you use, it's strong enough to turn the bolt works without a problem, but you can easily shear it just by twisting the hub by hand -- no need for any extension.  It works very well.  The hub then just spins freely.  A crude, rudimentary slip clutch.  If it shears, just replace the chopstick.

The downfall to the above is that if the thief has the presence of mind to remove the hub, the spindle shaft is exposed with the set screw hole.  The hole is only 1/4" in diameter, but I guess you could insert a small screwdriver in there and then an extension onto the screwdriver and attack the safe that way.  I have no experimentation with that, but I'd say it's 50/50 chance as to which would break first:  The screwdriver or the lock inside the safe.

MOD, PART II

To prevent that, I built a replacement spindle out parts from the hardware store, with multiple shear points.  It's easy to do if you use wood and plastic.  If it shears from the inside and spins freely, then just cut off the shaft from the outside, push it all in so that it falls down and clears the hole, and open the bolt works with a hook tool.  No need to drill anything.

This info doesn't help a thief as to make it work you have to be able to actually unlock the lock, whether it's digital or mechanical.  Also, the spindle hole in the door is too small to insert a tool large and strong enough to attack the bolt works with the lock engaged.  I guess they could try to reach up and attack the lock that way, but if they mess with it too much, the relocker will engage.  If the thief has enough presence of mind and knowledge to go beyond that, then the safe isn't that safe for any significant length of time.

I probably went too far with the mods as just removing the handles and replacing the set screw would be plenty.  My motivation was being presented with a problem and finding an elegant solution.  Not quite time-efficient, but I chalk it up as time spent on a hobby.

Nice write up, thank you.

Tagged for any updates.

I have the Titan XXL (older single door) and love it. It was heavy, and a bit awkward, but I assembled it minus the door by myself. Sucker isn't going anywhere anytime soon.

I'm looking at the XXL, does it come in one box or multiple boxes? Are the parts manageable enough that one person can care?  Living in condo, garage is 20 yards away from unit with stairs getting from point A to point B. Sucks everything in view of neighbors.

One HUGE box disassembled, as wide as a truck bed. After taking the door off (easily the heaviest part) my wife helped me take all the sections up stairs where I was able to assemble it. I would honestly bring a friend.

What he said, all ten parts.  Mine was easy to install into a closet and I built shelves around it.  The typical burglar in these parts will only have a short prybar, backpack to put small stuff in, plus only a couple minutes before the police arrive.  But to feel more secure about the missing slip clutch (which I learned about from this thread today)   I took off the handles and have M12 steel hex socket grub screws and chrome hex socket plugs on the way.  Will keep an eye on whatever comes from the company in the way of a fix though.

Despite the shortcomings noted in the op review and based on comparisons with other modular safes I'm pretty happy with this one.  But there is one thing about the safe I don't like.  The rotary dial on mine was hard to read even with the Security Safe Light led light (actually made the glare off the dial worse).  Ok in bright room light but in an emergency in dim light or the dark?  Impossible to hit the numbers.



I used a Lacquer Stik paintstick to fill in the numbers.  A piece of paper worked best to wipe off the excess, cloth tended to dig out the paint.




Now the numbers are easy to read.





I had an unexpected surprise when I hit the little Security Safe Light switch in the dark.  The numbers glow bright red like they are backlit.


I learned a lot about safes and what makes them secure or not from this thread and appreciate the info.  <0

Thanks for the info

Those numbers look really good, especially under the security light.

One more mod that I did:  I lined the vertical channels on each side of the door frame with 3/8" square steel bar, using epoxy to secure them.  It should greatly improve resistance against a pry attack.  There are some photos on the net of safes being pried open, with the thin "U" shaped door frames bent out like tin foil by the bolts.

It was only about $15 for the two 53" lengths of bar.  I first did a trial run with taping in some 1/2" bar, but it was just slightly too thick and prevent the bolts from extending.  The epoxy I used was "Pro-poxy 20", which is freakishly strong, but for this job was almost a disaster:  It cures extremely fast, within 8-10 minutes, and I had to move like lightening to get it in there and positioned properly before it hardened up.  I'd recommend something like JB Weld instead, as it gives you more time to fit it in there and wiggle it around.  Just make sure to clamp it in place for a couple of hours.  As a pry attack would pinch the bar firmly between the door frame and bolts, any epoxy should be more than adequate to hold the bar in place.  

There was another mod I was thinking about:  The Snapsafe lacks a hardened drill plate in front of the lock.  The lock on the Snapsafe, however, is mounted onto a cage of sorts (see Spartikis' photos above) welded onto and protruding from the door, creating an air gap of about 1/2" in between the door and the lock.  Maybe this air gap was meant for a hard plate in the original design?  Something that went the way of the slip clutch?  I was thinking of enclosing that cage on the bottom, filling that 1/2" space with ball bearings packed tightly, then enclosing the top.  I suspect, but am not sure, that unsecured ball bearings would spin and do severe damage to a drill bit.  The ball bearings shouldn't interfere with the movement of the lock's shaft.  If any one has any insights to that, it would be appreciated.

I like the visibility now, way better.

On the addition of the steel bars:  Sounds like a great idea and easy to implement.  A couple questions though.  Are you talking about gluing it into the 90 degree angle behind the firestrip?  Wouldn't a pry attack just pop the epoxy loose and push the bar to the left away from the bolts?  How about on the hinge side where there are no bolts?   If I am picturing it correctly the only thing to the outside of the lip is the fiberglass interior wall material.

Yes, in the channel right behind the arrows, directly behind the firestrip on the other side of the metal.  This is what higher end safe manufacturers do.  Of course, they weld it in, but I don't know how important the difference in strength between epoxy and an actual weld would be in this situation.

Will it pop out?  It could possibly be pushed to the left and out, but it would depend on how strong the epoxy is, and the angle of the attack.  If there is a pry attack, they'll most likely be pulling the door forward and the bolts will likely be pulled right up against the 3/8" bar, pinching the it between the bolts and frame, holding it in place and providing reinforcement.  

I put it on both the bolt and the hinge sides, as it's an easy a cheap mod.  It was about 8 bucks for each side, plus the epoxy.  I didn't reinforce the top and bottom as there are no bolts/plate there.

Ok, now I get it.  I was thinking that a pry attack would bend that channel/fold sideways and it might but only after they get past/under the edge of the door.   I wasn't thinking about the door face that they have to get the pry bar under first, which would jam the bolts against the bar like you noted.  Now I see how that simple fix will be very effective and best of all, it won't show.  Thanks!!

You're welcome.  Be sure to completely degrease the steel bars.  It took several passes with brake cleaner and alcohol to get mine clean.  I also took a rough file and scuffed up the two contact sides of the bars.  Last thing I did for prep was use a flat head screwdriver to strip away most of the paint/powder coat from the channel of safe's door frame.  Those two things should increase the strength of the bond.

Here's what it looks like with the handles removed, bolts/caps installed.  Pretty cool looking but enough purchase to operated easily.

Those bolts and caps look very nice and even as though they came from the factory.  I think that will dissuade any extension attacks.