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Maybe I missed it somewhere in all the reading but who built the door? I want to do a room like this when I build a house but that wont be for awhile.
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Maybe I missed it somewhere in all the reading but who built the door? I want to do a room like this when I build a house but that wont be for awhile. http://www.smithsecuritysafes.com/ |
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whats with the big red beam? is that to support the stainless till the concrete dries? Im not sure there was a reason to have that there. seems like you could have designed the concrete structures properly and avoided the use of that monster. For a vault in a lower floor, you need every support possible if the worst case situation would happen (if the house caves in). With the center support or "big red beam" will increase the ceiling/floor load if the structures falls down. Plus, the beam is inline with the exterior wall. Also using the beam for support of the second floor (beam is load bearing) Bigbore, nice choice on using an engineer for your vault. Most people will try it them selves to save money. I have always said "do it right the first time so you won't have to do it again." |
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Plus, the beam is inline with the exterior wall. Also using the beam for support of the second floor (beam is load bearing) Actually none of the roof/top of the vault is even touching the second floor. As you said it was a good idea to have an engineer design it, its completely free standing and the floor above would be just fine without the vault there. There is an additional beam running parallel to the inside wall outside the vault, which is the load bearing beam. |
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Since I can only tell slightly from your pictures It looks like a 8 or 10 inch wall and the rebar looks like #4 # 7 bars are thicker unless you watched the foundation crew install them or Iron Workers do it . I would be suspect But that is 1 hell of a room I am jealous You are correct, I talked to the foundation guy yesterday and ask about this. The walls and footers have #7, while the top has #4. He assured me, if anyone attempted to get in through the top theres isnt enough difference to matter between the 4 and 7. |
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FYI, #4 rebar is 1/2", and #7 is 7/8" Almost twice the size. #4 is pretty standard for 4" slab reinforcement. But its just a matter of where you stop. You could put 1" steel sheeting around it, then a layer of block. Then add some depleted uranium panels, maybe some krytonite... If someone really wants in and has the time, they'll get in.
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Big Bore Thank you for your honesty .I was only Observing , Certainly not Being Critical. In fact I am envious.I could lock my self in that vault and not see my other have til the next morning.
Fire Stalker I know what the dimensions of Rebar are. all be it i am just a Mere Union Carpenter. The job I am on Has been using #12 bars on 5" centers vertically and horizontally. It is a BITCH to get she bolts (concrete ties) through. Our Forms look like swiss cheese |
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Damn, nice. I would love to have a room/vault like that in my house.
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When is the house warming party? Do you think my wife would let any of you people in her house? At least you got to shoot most of whats going in the vault. |
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I'm taking notes on all these awesome things you guys are putting in your homes.
Walk-in vault. Water furnace. Generator. Wood stove backup. Maybe one day when I do get to build a home, I can incorporate all these things in it. |
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Ceiling going to stay stainless, or some other treatment? stainless. |
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That is going to be a sweet vault. Be sure to post some pics of the finished product because I would really like to see that.
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If you didn't put plywood up yet, don't. Use Hardiboard , You can get it in smooth, or some other options it'll look ten times better and function really good. It's exterior grade, you can paint it any color, or it can be bought prefinished. I sold some to a guy a few months ago for a similiar project,(i run a building supply store) and he loves it. It's strong stuff so it's easy to hang stuff, and he got the smooth, so it's very easy to patch holes if you decide to move something on the wall. I'm in WV so i'm sure they have it over there in Ohio......It will look 1000 times better than plywood, even if your using a AC grade
Edit :Anyway to get you to send me a .pdf or a better image of the pic of the prints? I'm working on designing my house now, and have been trying to figure out how to incorporate a room such as yours. If not i understand, just figured it would be worth asking. |
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If you didn't put plywood up yet, don't. Use Hardiboard , You can get it in smooth, or some other options it'll look ten times better and function really good. It's exterior grade, you can paint it any color, or it can be bought prefinished. I sold some to a guy a few months ago for a similiar project,(i run a building supply store) and he loves it. It's strong stuff so it's easy to hang stuff, and he got the smooth, so it's very easy to patch holes if you decide to move something on the wall. I'm in WV so i'm sure they have it over there in Ohio......It will look 1000 times better than plywood, even if your using a AC grade Edit :Anyway to get you to send me a .pdf or a better image of the pic of the prints? I'm working on designing my house now, and have been trying to figure out how to incorporate a room such as yours. If not i understand, just figured it would be worth asking. +1 on the don't use plywood. Figured you would want the less flammable than normal drywall, or something non flammable - Hardiboard is a good choice. Nice leaving the ceiling stainless - would reflect more light that way. |
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Me=green with envy.
VERY nice looking. Hope to have my own someday. Someday... |
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Don't you all think some nice aluminum diamond plate would look good in there? Wainscotting, cieling, ??? I know a guy that can get it in 4x8 sheets for I think $80.
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Don't you all think some nice aluminum diamond plate would look good in there? Wainscotting, cieling, ??? I know a guy that can get it in 4x8 sheets for I think $80. Not sure how it would look, but walls of plywood are up over 3" of insulation. I should have more pics tomorrow. |
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Very nice job.
If it were my vault, I might still want some stuff inside a safe inside the vault! |
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One thing I will be doing different, My door will be opening to the inside. That way if there is a tornado the family can go into the vault and shut the door and still be able to get out if the house is collapsed all around them. I looked at the inside opening too. If the house collapses in front of the door, you're still going to be trapped under the rubble. If I'm gonna have to be dug out either way, I'll take the extra space in the vault with the out opening door. Hydraulic ram. |
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Maybe I missed it somewhere in all the reading but who built the door? I want to do a room like this when I build a house but that wont be for awhile. http://www.smithsecuritysafes.com/ What model is your door? If its a higher model do you think it was worth the extra money? If not, do you wish you would've maybe gotten a higher end model? I'm looking at their doors and they seem very heavy. |
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Maybe I missed it somewhere in all the reading but who built the door? I want to do a room like this when I build a house but that wont be for awhile. http://www.smithsecuritysafes.com/ What model is your door? If its a higher model do you think it was worth the extra money? If not, do you wish you would've maybe gotten a higher end model? I'm looking at their doors and they seem very heavy. I got the high end door, with all the extras. It has the stainless steel front, honey comb something, magnesum back plate, lock relocator, and a few other things I dont remember. Smith Safes is just 10 minutes from my house, and there was some cash pricing. Looking back, I would have just got the basic door. All the extra stuff is cool, but I really dont think its necessary. |
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Smith Safes is just 10 minutes from my house, and there was some cash pricing. PM inbound. I'm not too far either. Only about 1 1/2 hours from my parents place. |
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Wow. That's very impressive. I hope to one day have a house build with a gun room in it, probably something just like that. I'm sure you'll love it.
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Really impressive guys. I just built a house (well in process) and kind of kicking myself in the ass for not doing this.... But live and learn!
Out of curiosity what is the approximate total cost for something like this if I may ask. I cant wait to see it all finished! |
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tag for pictures of the inside of these once they are finished
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Out of curiosity what is the approximate total cost for something like this if I may ask. Depending on how you finish, Id say between $7 and 10K. |
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Man am I envious. And I thought my 7'x10' block room behind a steel door in my basement was pretty good. Hah! Big Bore, your vault is awesome, as are some others that have been pictured.
Just curious, is your vault the safe itslef? Or will you have multiple safes inside the vault? I have one safe now, and am looking to add another. |
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Just curious, is your vault the safe itslef? Or will you have multiple safes inside the vault? I have one safe now, and am looking to add another. That vault is the safe, I actually sold(once I move) my 2 Libery Franklins to finance the vault. |
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Total cost for everything for me was about 4K. I paid just under 2K for the door. I wish they were closer. Shipping on that was $200 alone and I had to pick it up from the freight company. It's just the basic door with a few little things you have to have. Just to have it painted cost extra. I got the dial combo lock that was standard because I've had issues with a electronic S&G. The guys at Smiths are top notch guys.
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tag.. recommend a tack on this thread; might steal some future reference when i build my own place.
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Was this designed by an architect, an architectural engineer, or a structural engineer? I need a storm shelter/vault but mine will have to be above ground due to excessive ground moisture.
...never mind reread ....structural |
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Alright, thought I had seen insulation there, but didn't see it in the last photo with the foam. It was probably a one time thing with first starting up the heat, and hope you don't have any other problems.
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