I don't think you need another one quite yet

My humble submission.  A Superior Ironside 41 (60" tall, 40" wide, 26" deep.)  To the left of the safe (opposite the hinges) is a concrete wall, and to the back of the safe is a concrete wall.  The unit is bolted down using the Redhed sleeve anchors, and it weights in at a sturdy 850lbs.  

I had to remove the sheetrock to get the safe to fit between the sewage access port and the wall.  My plan is to stud in the whole thing, and then build shelving around it.  Possibly with a pegboard or something on hidden hinges that will swing out of the way to reveal the box.  




Using the wiremold prodcut, I am going to run power up to one of the shelves, and then install another double gang box with high and low voltage in it.  Into that box will be two separate raceways, one for network and one for power.  It will have a network jack, and an outlet with USB charging ports as well.  When running the network/power, they come down the wall in separate stud openings, and then go in the box through the same hole, and then back out.  I really dont care to have network and power running in parallel at all, but there is only so much I can do.  



I installed the lights using this kit and just ran around the sides and the top.  And on the top, I put the strip on the ceiling to keep out of the way of the locking bold.
LED Kit with Dimmer

It turns out that 14/2 wire stables cover the ends of the LED connects perfectly.  The weight should be relieved enough so the self adhesive on teh back of the LED strip doesn't give out



I then installed a momentary door switch behind the hinge, and out of the way of the bolt.  I figured I would put it there so that it could not be used as a week spot in the metal, since it is directly behind the giant, thick hinge.  Door opens, light comes on and stays on for as long as the door is open.  



Goldenrod is installed and all all is happy.  



Also, I know some people say not to keep the ammo in the safe.  I have ambitions of moving my previous stack on cabinet down and mounting that to the wall to hold the ammo...but I might have to buy a bigger one

Edit: I am trying to find the link on where I purchased the AR door mat...but for the life of me I cannot find it.  When i do, I will make sure to post it.

I definitely need that door mat.

What is that underneath it?  Do most people leave airspace under to prevent corrosion?

I did some digging.  I bought it from a local place through craigslist.  The ad is now gone, and I for the life of me cannot find the emails back and forth between the guy and I.  







Two sheets of 5/8s ply (I think).  I just used the extra play I had in my garage.  Initially I wanted to do some composite deck boards, as my friend owns a decking company and could get me some for free/cheap.  But he got distracted with having a kid, and wasn't able to get them for me.

it is advised to not let teh safe sit on the concrete for rust issues, but getting under it should be difficult to minimize the ability to get leverage under the safe.

Just bought a Safe Guard Safe Co. GS-31.

i went with hockey pucks at the corners drilled and bolted through them.

Ive seen how rusty the bottom of a safe can get when left in contact with concrete. I used some treated plywood under mine when I installed it a few years ago and it seems to be going well. I'll know for sure when I move it next month.

I think when I do it again Im going to get some rubber sheeting or flooring to put down.

What's up with the network cable?

Just a guess but many people put a hard drive back up system in their safes for their camera system or a network backup to have a second storage in case of fire

As you can see, I use the "stack like cord wood" organizing method. Top lock box has coins, bullion, some cash and important paperwork. Orange box has my NVD Micro in it. There is 12 long guns and 15 pistols in that little harbor freight safe. I may need a bigger safe.

everybody needs a bigger safe

 

You got that right....

Place Holder for mine pics

Well I see your problem, you have all those boxes in there taking up precious room. Only thing in a safe should be guns, all ancillary equipment goes elsewhere..

What you're not seeing in my poor quality pictures is that in the top right corner is a kitchen rack with about six or seven guns under the boxed guns, and on front of every shelf on the right is a pistol or revolver.

Boxed or not, that safe has 52 guns total and 3 complete AR lowers.... I live in a small condo and I have no other place to store the boxes.  That's the best that I can do.

Bought a discontinued floor model Browning.  The door rack sucks and the main racks make it very difficult to fit in oddly shaped guns.

But, it's a lot of cubic footage.


I'm keeping overflow guns on display or in the other safe.  

Getting ready to buy one.  It will go in the basement along the wall that is concrete. The floor is concrete however there is carpet over it. So, can I put it straight on that carpet floor or do I need to put hockey pucks in the corners or do people put them in more than the corners in case it might SAG?  The carpet is your typical basement carpet no additional padding underneath it's just the backing and a very short pile. You could almost putt on it.

What don't you like about the door rack?

 
The top "holder" is non-adjustable, so everything needs to be just the right height to fit in.  Turns out, hardly anything is the right height to have just the barrel at that height.  Plus, the feet on the rack really eat into the square footage of the floor due to the additional clearance needed.  I may remove them entirely and squeeze more onto the main racks.


To be fair to Browning, their newer models have a cutout into the door so things with scopes or carry handles can fit better, but it doesn't solve the height issue.

I'd still puck it, carpet can attract and hold moisture even when everything else looks dry.



 

Safe 1




Safe 2





Safe 3

I feel so inadequate now.

Someone needs to step up and join the gun room thread

Time for another safe.  It will likely be another Fat Boy Jr. as I doubt I'll have a need for safes in a few years once I get around to building my retirement home.  The plan is at least a 12'x12' gun room there.

I like the old stuff .......................

Empty holster is for my Colt Police Positive Special in 32-20 that is being restored.







Wont' fit ......................

Place holder

I got tired of the pistol boxes filling up the top of the safe, and built this pistol rack the last couple of days to give me more safe room.  Added an interior motion LED light, and am happy with the results so far.

Empty Rack - holds 45 pistols.
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Loaded Rack

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What did you use for the rods holding the pistols?  Nice way to utilize the space!

Thanks for your input.  I used a sheet of peg-board, cut to interior safe dimensions and covered in heavy felt, and used #10X4" SS bolts for the pegs.  The bolts are covered with heat shrink electrical wire wrap, just heated each bolt with a propane torch to "melt" the plastic onto the bolts.  Turned my 24 gun Cannon safe into a 60 + gun safe, there's 45 pegs and plenty of room for long guns still.  I wanted to do this for sometime, and finally devoted a day to do it.

heat shrink tubing, great idea!

My son's idea, he's an electronics technician.  I would have never thought of it my self.

Old and new. The mirror image/opposing door BF7240s work really well next to each other.

Phil - I would have done the exact opposite - Hinges on the outside - Did you have a reason for doing it that way???

Good question. I did it specifically so I could open each safe door 180 degrees.

This is what I thought when I first saw the pic.

I have another three in South Florida.

 

Will do when I get a bigger house.

 

CAN WE SEE INSIDE?????????

...

Two combos to open the safe?

A lot of nice safe pics in this thread...allow me to add mine...just received my new-to-me Bernardini Gemvault.

Yep, two separate combinations. One dial and "spinner" controls the horizontal bolts, the other dial and "spinner" controls the vertical bolts.

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