User Panel
Mine likes Gen3 PMAGs (all gens) as well as Lancers and Tango Down ARCs.
I don't have any aluminum mags to test. |
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http://i66.tinypic.com/2lk380o.jpg I still can’t figure out why thirty round gen 3 pmags won’t fit when the hammer isn’t cocked, but they don’t. Everything else I have seems to work fine. View Quote Try 28 rounds instead of 30. |
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I finally got into the bullpup game, I just bought a KSG and a RDB from the guide. Great prices!
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Quick question for you new RDB owners....
Living behind enemy lines in Marylandistan, rifles need to be >29 inch OAL. I know the RDB doesn't meet it, but a simple pin and weld muzzle break would fix that. How is muzzle device that comes with it attached? I believe I read somewhere that it has a jamb nut, so it should be relatively easy to remove. Yes or no? Also, is the barrel profile wide enough to accept a pin/weld job easily enough? Lastly, does anyone have a measure on the length to the shoulder of the threads on the barrel? How long of a muzzle device would I need? Thanks in advance. |
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I shot mine today with no issues.
After I got it home I noticed every screw was loose, all of them! Except the rail because I already used red loctite on those. The four screws on the top cover are critical, as they hold the rails in place. Now that I tightened every screw 30 round gen 3 pmags fit. So far I’ve had no major issues but whomever assembled these things at keltec sucks. |
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I shot mine today with no issues. After I got it home I noticed every screw was loose, all of them! Except the rail because I already used red loctite on those. The four screws on the top cover are critical, as they hold the rails in place. Now that I tightened every screw 30 round gen 3 pmags fit. So far I’ve had no major issues but whomever assembled these things at keltec sucks. View Quote |
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Quick question for you new RDB owners.... Living behind enemy lines in Marylandistan, rifles need to be >29 inch OAL. I know the RDB doesn't meet it, but a simple pin and weld muzzle break would fix that. How is muzzle device that comes with it attached? I believe I read somewhere that it has a jamb nut, so it should be relatively easy to remove. Yes or no? Also, is the barrel profile wide enough to accept a pin/weld job easily enough? Lastly, does anyone have a measure on the length to the shoulder of the threads on the barrel? How long of a muzzle device would I need? Thanks in advance. View Quote |
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I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality.
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I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality. View Quote |
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I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality. View Quote I banged, snagged, and dragged my gun through a series of obstacle-shooting courses in the mid-40s like a goober without hurting anything or having any issues, if that helps . There was another goober doing the same thing with his as well, also with no issues. Speaking of; issues: the rough-edged steel sling clasps KT includes tear the absolute shit out of the gun, and if using the steel loops right behind the trigger guard, they tear the shit out of the softer sling clasps. After slinging the rifle single-point all day, I looked down & saw a layer of silvery powder from the clasps all over the side of the gun, lol. Gotta get me some of those wire-loop-tie thingies going forward. The gun slings well, though; short & flat-sided, with a muzzle that hangs down on single-point setups. |
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Can you point me to the facts about how those materials will likely warp in the cold? I would love to read them. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I FOd on the deal from sportsman’s guide. Seems like a neat idea, but just not... robust enough. The frame relies too much on thin plastic that, while probably perfectly durable, is likely to warp/shift in the cold or under load. I sold it at a very small loss and used the money to build 2 PSA ARs of superior quality. Thermal expansion between the steel upper and plastic lower is more likely to cause an issue with the fit of the takedown pins, which are crazy tight in most guns as-is. Lose a few thousandths across the length of the lower in cold weather and you might be needing a punch-set to take the gun apart. Takedown is an area I think the gun could maybe use some more development work in, though I think they are on the right track. Any time you have more than two locating pins for this sort of assembly (the lower has three) you are gonna have binding problems. |
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Quoted: On my 'standard' RDB, the distance from the buttpad to the front of the gas block is 23 inches. I believe that length is the same between the different models (it's kind of set by cocking handle travel). The RDB-S/survival is 26" OAL, so I think any of the longer fixed-brakes should work. The RDB-C says it's 30" and has a longer foregrip so the barrel isn't all ant-eater-ey View Quote Can you help me out with how the flash hider is attached? Is there a jamb nut holding it in place? |
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Can you point me to the facts about how those materials will likely warp in the cold? I would love to read them. View Quote I emailed Kel-Tec about a replacement pin and they mailed one to me, no questions asked. |
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What pin gets hot on the handguard? Is it hard to avoid? View Quote |
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I’m not worried about the plastic/polymer quality. I’m mainly worried about the monkeys that assemble them, they might have gotten fired from century arms.
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I’m not worried about the plastic/polymer quality. I’m mainly worried about the monkeys that assemble them, they might have gotten fired from century arms. View Quote |
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I shot mine today with no issues. After I got it home I noticed every screw was loose, all of them! Except the rail because I already used red loctite on those. The four screws on the top cover are critical, as they hold the rails in place. Now that I tightened every screw 30 round gen 3 pmags fit. So far I’ve had no major issues but whomever assembled these things at keltec sucks. View Quote |
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Quoted: Don’t over torque the last screw in the rail. It should be the only one with a wavy lock washer on it. It’s not meant to be completely torqued down. It’s supposed to allow the rail to move a bit as barrel gets hot. Supposed to prevent vertical stringing as the barrel heats up. On my RDB it was the one loose screw. View Quote I ended up getting rid of the rifle anyways. Good idea but poorly executed IMO. |
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Ordered one from SG yesterday. Never bought a firearm from them. For those who bought the RDB from them, how long after you placed the order did you get the shippping notification and receive the gun? I’m slightly impatient...lol.
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Ordered one from SG yesterday. Never bought a firearm from them. For those who bought the RDB from them, how long after you placed the order did you get the shippping notification and receive the gun? I’m slightly impatient...lol. View Quote I would be surprised if it didn't ship by tomorrow, although they may be a little backed up with Black Friday. |
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Ordered one from SG yesterday. Never bought a firearm from them. For those who bought the RDB from them, how long after you placed the order did you get the shippping notification and receive the gun? I’m slightly impatient...lol. View Quote |
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Quoted: They ship really fast in my opinion. I beleive they are in Ohio and I am in Az. From order to delivery to my FFL its usually 3-4 business days. View Quote |
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So the RDB 2.0 has; -1" shorter barrel (meh) -MLOK handguard (okay, folks have been waiting for one since the rollout demo a year+ ago) -Buttstock can get 1.5" longer (the gun already has a fairly long LOP, folks really need it longer? I suppose that explains the MSBS/Grot) View Quote So you're not getting a 1.5" longer stock, the fully open will be basically where your stock is now, but with the option to collapse it an inch or whatnot which will then be less than 26" overall. I had an RDB, shot good, wasn't the silencer god-host I was hoping for (piston pop/gas), but was fun. Luckily I sold it a while ago so I didn't lose my ass after this price drop. If/when the S model comes down in price I'll probably get that one for the different magazine release and lighter overall, but that's a way off. |
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Attached File
I love my RDB! Good trigger out of the box, adjustable gas to regulate suppressor or recoil impulse and I just added the Hera grip which gives great ergonomics! At $712, it is a ridiculously good buy! |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/129929/RDB_with_Hera_Grip_jpg-761566.JPG I love my RDB! Good trigger out of the box, adjustable gas to regulate suppressor or recoil impulse and I just added the Hera grip which gives great ergonomics! At $712, it is a ridiculously good buy! View Quote I love the looks of the RDBs in the other thread with S and C handguards, but after putting a VFG on mine, there is no going back. |
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I had to uninstall the magwell for my RDB. While its nice for easy reloads its too flared for coupled mags and drums like my Magpul D-60. Something to be aware of if you're thinking of buying the magwell.
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Did KT ever release the "Tactical Model" with the MLOK rail and other updated features?
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