Trying to load up some 500 grain hornady xtp beowulf rounds.


Hard to find a good oal


Whats going wrong here? Are these primers (cci 350's) getting hit because the bullet is sitting on the lands?


They function(!?) but do not drop free.

not dropping free and dented primers related?

Thanks!!

Take a sharpie marker on a dummy round and cover the bullet and shoulder.

Drop it in the chamber and close the bolt.  Eject it carefully and it should show where the issue is.

Dented primers are usually due to the free floating firing pin. Potential for slam fire but common and mostly a non issue.  Follow normal firearm safety rules when chambering.

I'm seeing what looks like clear signs of touching threads. Is that what you see?


How far back can this bullet safely go?


I know people have shot this similar combo.


I'm using RL7, AA has no minimum charge for a 500 grain bullet, only a max of 40 ( rl7).

Doing a little analysis of other similar loads I'm going to try ~36.5 of RL7 but If I push this bullet back further, I just don't know what's safe.  

The primer marks are normal. The floating firing pin lightly hits the primer when the bolt slams closed.

I see this on AR-15, M1Garand, M1A, MAS 49-56, I think you get the picture.

Motor

Your OAL seems excessive for the bullet you're using. I see what appears to be rifling marks on the nose of the bullet, suggesting your bullet needs to go a bit deeper into the case. Depending on the level of your current powder charge, you may also need to adjust your charge weight downwards a mite if you're already loading to the max pressure level.

I would seat that to the cannelure.

You are jammed into the rifling.

AA lists no minimum charge for rl7, just a max of 40.

These are all at 36.5

Is that low enough charge to safely seat the bullet back farther?
I can't find rl7 min charge info -anywhere- for this setup.

Being 3.5gr under maximum on a casing with that amount of capacity l don't see any problem at all seating back to the canalure from where you are now.

Motor

The data said to have it longer...   But I get it.

People end up with the cannelure way up, below is some commercial ammo and the picture looks like they have it at AA spec ( which won't drop free )


https://detroitammoco.com/product/12-7x42mm-aka-50-beowulf-500gr-xtp-20-rounds/

I see (from the link) what you mean. This is obviously a situation where the bullets being used were not specifically designed for the caliber.

Since as you said, the BW only gets the mouth flare removed (taper crimp) the canalure on the bullet means absolutely nothing and serves no purpose.

I've seen this many times before most recently with the Hornady 140gr .277 in which they moved the canalure on so it could be crimped in one of the newer calibers like the 6.8 or possibly one of the short magnums.

So now when I load it in a .270 Win the canalure is well beyond the case mouth but who cares because it's not being used anyway.

What is peculiar in your situation is that it appears the "standard" OAL is not working in your particular firearm.

If I were you I'd adjust my OAL just enough to make them work then go .010" deeper to allow for differences and or a little creep forward when the bolt slams closed.

I simply think that your leade is just a little short like we run into with auto pistols like XDs and recently a Kimber 9mm compact.

Motor

Drops free perfect if I push it in to 2.135


I made 4, we'll see what happens next time I have a minute to shoot.

Why are you using magnum pistol primers in a rifle round?

Because the .50 BEO is technically a pistol cartridge.  Many may argue that, even though it is a straight walled cartridge; but regardless, the loading data recommends that specific primer.


To the OP, the Lyman manual recommends a 2.165 OAL for that projectile.

I'm at .135 and it doesn't quite fit in a pmag. Few more thou aught to do it.


my 36.5 charges did well. Evidence of gas behind the case mouth so I need to bump it up.

If data a pressure signs will allow you to go hotter no harm in trying but sometimes with semiautomatics sooty casings are just simply the norm. It's because there is still pressure in the bore when they begin to eject.

Motor

These are essentially my first reloads. I've read up on sign of too much pressure, but never seen it.


So i'm going slow. Really don't want to blow my face off!