Redding powder measures!

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Redding powder measures!

Posted: 10/17/2017 10:17:29 PM EDT

I know there are many on here who put the redding PM on the top of the list of best in class.

Today, I was actually blown away.

I reload for my 22 TCM rifle. It has a very small case capacity. The difference between 11.26gr of H110 and 11.36gr of H110 is accuracy and over pressure.

I lucked into 2 Redding PM. A larger rifle one and a smaller pistol (looks like) PM. I was impressed with the rifle one. I used it on my 300 RSAUM and got 60.2 to 60.3gr of H4895 consistently. It was awesome.

Today with the smaller measure and H110, it was 11.3gr on the dot every time for 40 rounds. I would not have believed it if I hadn't hand measured every one to make sure because of the small cases, it has become a habit.

I know H110 measures very easy, and I have seen it myself and accepted the +or- .2 I get from my dillon PM. But this was awesome.

If anyone is on the fence about a Lee or RCBS or Redding... Redding has my vote.

Pic because... Reasons.

Attached File

Posted: 10/17/2017 11:47:55 PM EDT

[#1]

I have been posting my results with my Redding PM's for years.

Ball powder measures exact, flake + or - .1 gr.

I was loading some H-4198, an extruded (looks like a log) and 1/2 of my thrown charges were exact, the other half + or - .1 gr.

The secret is a waxed PM (Minwax paste wax) and good technique.

Posted: 10/17/2017 11:59:11 PM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:
The secret is a waxed PM (Minwax paste wax) and good technique.

View Quote

Do you mean you wax the interior "funnel" of the powder measure metal base, the drum or all of the above and more?

I polished mine from Redding's sad rough casting to smooth shiny, slippery metal but did not wax it. With H335 a 10 round average will be on the money and a few individual charges will be .1 high or low so not bad consistency but I'm all for better.

Posted: 10/18/2017 12:17:38 AM EDT

[#3]

Disassemble PM to the basic parts. Coat all internal metal surfaces with wax, let dry and wipe off.

Wax the interior of the hopper.

When reassembled you won't believe how smoothly the handle moves up and down.

No the wax has no effect on the powder, I've been doing this for 10 years now, and I would have noticed by now if it did.

Posted: 10/18/2017 6:59:29 AM EDT

[#4]

Thanks.
Now I will have to make a Wally World run for wax. My powder measure gets stuck on stick powder. The mfg told me to re-edge the parts that seal off the chamber while it closes. The edges got slightly damaged when I took it apart the first time to clean before use. Another goodie that should have been mentioned in the owner's manual.

Posted: 10/18/2017 8:07:29 AM EDT

[#5]

I bought a Redding off eBay when W296 would leak from my Lee Perfect Powder Measure. No leaks from Redding. Just would be nice to easily empty when done.

Posted: 10/18/2017 8:20:55 AM EDT

[#6]

Interesting.

My first PM was a Lyman 55B. Not much good for the IMR powders I like.

My second PM is a RCBS uniflow. Better for IMR powders, but not perfect.

I bought a Lee because I read it was better. It wasn't. It's back in it's box on a shelf.

The RCBS is very good with ball powders. With BLC2 I've weighed 1 of every 10 charges (chosen at random) for 400 rounds and had none more than 0.1 grains off. With H335 I've done the same and had all 40 randomly chosen charges come up dead on. No variation found.

But, if a Redding will do that on IMR4198 and IMR4895, I'll have to start looking for one.

How are they on pistol/shotgun powders like Blue Dot, Red Dot, 800X, etc?

Posted: 10/18/2017 10:13:39 AM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:
I bought a Redding off eBay when W296 would leak from my Lee Perfect Powder Measure. No leaks from Redding. Just would be nice to easily empty when done.

View Quote

Mine is mounted to a wood bracket securely bolted to a shelf above my bench.

The bracket has a female Hornady LNL bushing, the PM has a male LNL bushing.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/858110/hornady-lock-n-load-press-and-die-conversion-bushing-kit

Half a turn, on or off.

Drill hole slightly smaller than the threads on the female bushing, with Vice grips turn female bushing into the wood bracket.

Posted: 10/18/2017 10:16:06 AM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
Interesting.

My first PM was a Lyman 55B. Not much good for the IMR powders I like.

My second PM is a RCBS uniflow. Better for IMR powders, but not perfect.

I bought a Lee because I read it was better. It wasn't. It's back in it's box on a shelf.

The RCBS is very good with ball powders. With BLC2 I've weighed 1 of every 10 charges (chosen at random) for 400 rounds and had none more than 0.1 grains off. With H335 I've done the same and had all 40 randomly chosen charges come up dead on. No variation found.

But, if a Redding will do that on IMR4198 and IMR4895, I'll have to start looking for one.

How are they on pistol/shotgun powders like Blue Dot, Red Dot, 800X, etc?

View Quote

Flake powder + or - .1 gr.

This is with a waxed PM using good technique.

Posted: 10/18/2017 11:25:27 AM EDT

[#9]

OP, what was the resolution of your scale's display (electronic or mechanical)?

One "advantage" of ball powder over extruded is more uniform charge weights. The thing is, in every test I've ever run, I get more consistent velocity results and better accuracy from extruded than ball - even when charges are hand weighed.

Focusing on charge weight uniformity misses the mark (pun intended).

Posted: 10/18/2017 8:13:27 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
OP, what was the resolution of your scale's display (electronic or mechanical)?

One "advantage" of ball powder over extruded is more uniform charge weights. The thing is, in every test I've ever run, I get more consistent velocity results and better accuracy from extruded than ball - even when charges are hand weighed.

Focusing on charge weight uniformity misses the mark (pun intended).

View Quote

I was using a Gempro 250. So .02gr I think.

I love extruded powders in most rifles. Like I stated in the OP, my larger redding PM throws within .1g with H4895.

But alas, I see no extruded powders suitable for 22 TCM.

Posted: 10/18/2017 9:02:47 PM EDT

[#11]

I've had a number of powder measures over the last fifty+ years. I use only Reddings now including a couple of Match Grades, a BR-30 Competition, and one regular model. The newest one is probably at least thirty years old. I've had one custom bench-rest-type measure that wasn't as consistent as a Redding.

Posted: 10/18/2017 10:40:58 PM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
I've had a number of powder measures over the last fifty+ years. I use only Reddings now including a couple of Match Grades, a BR-30 Competition, and one regular model. The newest one is probably at least thirty years old. I've had one custom bench-rest-type measure that wasn't as consistent as a Redding.

View Quote

Welcome to the Reloading Forum.

Posted: 10/18/2017 11:04:39 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
Disassemble PM to the basic parts. Coat all internal metal surfaces with wax, let dry and wipe off.

Wax the interior of the hopper.

When reassembled you won't believe how smoothly the handle moves up and down.

View Quote

Inside the powder drum as well?

Posted: 10/18/2017 11:40:29 PM EDT

[#14]

The idea is to coat all internal parts with a coat of wax.

It is a powder safe lubricant/coating.

Posted: 10/19/2017 8:46:01 AM EDT

[#15]

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:40:59 AM EDT

[#16]

30 or so years ago I was loading .280 and .270 for me and a couple of friends.

Read an article in the American Rifleman that stated that you should use the Redding BR-30, BUT, cut the load in half and drop TWO charges per case. So, I would drop IMR 4350 into the cases by charging the case twice. The loads were near perfect and the cutting of the powder grains was way, way lessened. We then as a control weighed the charges for all 100+ cases for the .270 and the powder charges were less than .1 grain variance. When loading near max I still do it this way.

Still loading IMR-4831 surplus ($2.00/#) from a 100# keg and only do it that way.

Posted: 10/19/2017 10:16:57 AM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:
30 or so years ago I was loading .280 and .270 for me and a couple of friends.

Read an article in the American Rifleman that stated that you should use the Redding BR-30, BUT, cut the load in half and drop TWO charges per case. So, I would drop IMR 4350 into the cases by charging the case twice. The loads were near perfect and the cutting of the powder grains was way, way lessened. We then as a control weighed the charges for all 100+ cases for the .270 and the powder charges were less than .1 grain variance. When loading near max I still do it this way.

Still loading IMR-4831 surplus ($2.00/#) from a 100# keg and only do it that way.

View Quote

Interesting, thanks for posting this technique.

Posted: 10/21/2017 10:17:59 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
Disassemble PM to the basic parts. Coat all internal metal surfaces with wax, let dry and wipe off.

Wax the interior of the hopper.

When reassembled you won't believe how smoothly the handle moves up and down.

No the wax has no effect on the powder, I've been doing this for 10 years now, and I would have noticed by now if it did.

View Quote

I'm going to try this on my Dillon powder measures.

Thanks for the tip.

Posted: 10/21/2017 10:25:50 PM EDT

[#19]

Quote History

Quoted:

Interesting, thanks for posting this technique.

View Quote

A tech from Redding suggested that when I called to ask about the specs and throw capacity for just that reason.

Makes perfect sense.

Posted: 10/22/2017 11:14:04 AM EDT

[#20]

I did a similar upgrade to my elderly Pacific measure, and it helped it immensely as well. It was smooth to begin with, but so much better afterwards.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Redding powder measures!

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