Just an FYI...
so you don't do like what I did and booger up the decapping assembly of your die....
loosen the decapping die as much as you can and when the die is upside down let the decapping rod drop down as much as it can.
If you can drill with a drill press and clamp the die in place that would be ideal.
What I noticed with a handheld drill is that once the bit makes it through the case head, it pulls hard and fast the whole drill downward. If you don't have a vise to lock the die into upside down, you can always unscrew it from your press, and then re-insert from inside the press, upside down, and screw it upward into the press. The the brass headstamp will be facing your ceiling.
So the point of the bit wrecks your decapping pin and/or decapping rod assembly...if you're not careful with a handheld drill.
Then you're really screwed unless you have a replacement on hand already.
You will also need a 1/4 X 20 tpi bolt, a flat or fender washer and a spacer...could be a conduit connector/coupler or a socket. IIRC, I think last time I used an 18mm deep well socket.
I ended up making my own clone of the Dillon case lube using liquid lanolin and HEET in the red bottle from wally world's automotive section. Also while at wally world I picked up a clear plastic spray or squirter bottle that has graduations on it.
I put my .233 brass in an aluminum, rectangular baking pan. I get the brass all lined up nice and neat next to each other with the headstamps touching the long "wall" of the baking pan. Then I give them a misting with the homemade lube. Then I go do something else for like 10 or 15 minutes. I guess that gives the alcohol time to flash off. Then I very carefully tip one end of the pan up so the brass rolls to the other end of the pan. Then I give them another misting...letting the alcohol evaporate for 10 or 15 minutes before dumping the pan into my 650's casefeeder.
The other thing I will do is squirt WD40 or Kroil up into my dies and then swirl a Qtip up inside them. That gets a lot of the crude out.