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AZ, USA
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Posted: 7/16/2017 6:08:46 PM EDT
[#1]
I finally broke down and ordered 1 today. Should be here wed. I got it on that JET.com deal for $118 shipped. Looking forwards to it.
I did have a question though. does it mater the temp of the water you use for it? cold, room temp, hot, boiling? |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 7:52:40 PM EDT
[#2]
I use cold water with excellent results.
The key with wet tumbling is the correct amount of brass, water, Lemishine, and Dawn. And don't overload the tumbler. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 7/23/2017 6:10:00 PM EDT
[#3]
So I got my FART and was looking to use it sometime here soon. I'm going to deprime some 9mm and 223 today. My question is, about how many 9mm or 223 should I put in there at 1 time?
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Posted: 7/23/2017 6:27:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ppknut]
[#4]
Given Frankford's 30 lb limit, I started tracking the number of pieces that would make 30 lbs based on the runs I made.
The table below shows the limits I calc'd. I hope it's readable. Damn....it's not readable..... According to Frankford, I believe they indicated about 1000 pieces of .223 for a full load. My calc's suggest about 900 to 950 (deprimed). You can easily get 1000 9mm's in there. Probably not the best idea to run full 30 lb. loads....save some wear and tear on the motor! Let's try the table again...That's a little more legible. 
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 7/23/2017 7:31:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Awesome. Thank you for that chart.
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 7/23/2017 10:51:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: azmp5]
[#6]
well i deprimed about 500 of them and have it spinning, so lets see how it is in a couple hours.
Edit: Well, needless to say, I am impressed. I did warm water, 2x 45acp case fills of lemishine a good squirt of dawn for 2 hours. Brass came out great and even the flash holes were spotless. I may have went alittle heavy on the dawn so I may try alittle less next time. Tomorrow I'm going to try 500x 556 cases and see how it goes. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 7/25/2017 5:22:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: azmp5]
[#7]
I ended up just finishing my 9mm brass off, alittle over 1k. Ran it for 3 hours and it came out just as great as the first set. Needless to say I am really enjoying these results.
I did have a question though. I am debating on getting a universal deprimer or not and/or if i should dry tumble first. Part of me is saying "yes" on getting it so the stuff I shoot / find at the range, i can just deprime and throw in the wet tumbler. My issue with this though is that now i will have to figure out a way to wipe off the case lube after i resize (either dry tumble or wipe each case) Part of me says "no" on getting it because i can dry tumble it "clean" for maybe an hour or 2 and then run the brass through the sizer/deprimer and THEN wet tumble. my issue with this is now i have to do the extra step of tumbling it (dry) then tumble it again (wet). |
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Posted: 7/25/2017 8:11:56 AM EDT
[#8]
The proper way to wet tumble is to decap dirty brass with a universal decap die then wet tumble.
I use a Lee. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 7/25/2017 12:35:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Love these FA wet tumblers, been using it going on two years. Water 3/4 of the way, a generous squirt of Dawn, a dash of lemishine, and a hour or two run time you have great looking brass. Towel off and throw in the FA brass dryer, and you're good to go.
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2017 4:13:11 AM EDT
[#10]
Today I did about 700 or so 556. id say 1/2 was stuff i tumbled already and 1/2 was once fired but still dirty. Kind of mixed about the outcome but I was also trying something new.
first 3 hours was when I used that blue liquid that came with the F.A.R.T. and i didnt add anything else. when it was done it was clean *so i thought* but the primer pockets looked almost untouched and very dirty still. the water came out almost black. something the 9mm cases never did (was more of a light gray) I rinsed out the tumbler and added fresh water. This time i did the dawn and lemishine for 2 hours. When it was done you could tell it was clean just at a quick glance. the water came out dark, but no where as dark as the first go around. the primer pockets were also spotless. i cant say if the F.A. liquid was to blame but i will prob stick with the dawn/lemishine combo. Also, since this is the first time doing rifle brass, can anyone else say if they ever ran into where the inside of the neck looked orangeish? it doesnt look like rust cause i got a q-tip and wiped around it and nothing came off. Thing is, its totally random on the cases that have it, and if i had to guess, i would say its maybe 1 every 20-25 brass that has it. Its mixed headstamps, but mostly L.C. and PMC with some Rem and wolf gold. |
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Posted: 7/26/2017 8:09:39 AM EDT
[#11]
Stick with the time proven Dawn and Lemishine.
It keeps the orange away. |
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Posted: 10/18/2017 6:30:06 PM EDT
[#12]
The Dawn and Lemi Shine Booster works like magic.
I was having trouble getting my suppressed semi auto brass as clean as my bolt action brass. 3 9mm cases of Lemi Shine did the trick. Just Dawn Soap:  Attached FileDawn with Lemi Shine:  Attached File |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/19/2017 6:29:05 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman66:
The Dawn and Lemi Shine Booster works like magic. I was having trouble getting my suppressed semi auto brass as clean as my bolt action brass. 3 9mm cases of Lemi Shine did the trick. Just Dawn Soap: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/335613/20171018_162750-337165.JPG Dawn with Lemi Shine: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/335613/20171018_162920-337166.JPG  looks great! I wanna get one of these. I’ve besrd that lanolin based case line doesn’t wash off that well. Is that true? So wet tumble and dry tumble line off? Does that affect the shine that the wet tumble gives?
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Posted: 10/19/2017 8:08:46 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NathanDrake:
looks great! I wanna get one of these. I’ve besrd that lanolin based case line doesn’t wash off that well. Is that true? So wet tumble and dry tumble line off? Does that affect the shine that the wet tumble gives?My process for rifle brass: 1. Decap with universal decapping die. 2. Wet tumble to high bling. a. dump brass into towel and roll back and forth to get most water off b. throw in dry tumbler to dry completely 3. Size 4. Dry tumble in corn cob for 10 minutes or so to remove lube. You can see when it is gone as the corn cob will no longer stick. 5. Trim, Prime, and load. |
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Posted: 10/19/2017 8:33:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pointman66]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Scott_R:
In my opinion, yes. That's the best way. My process for rifle brass: 1. Decap with universal decapping die. 2. Wet tumble to high bling. a. dump brass into towel and roll back and forth to get most water off b. throw in dry tumbler to dry completely 3. Size 4. Dry tumble in corn cob for 10 minutes or so to remove lube. You can see when it is gone as the corn cob will no longer stick. 5. Trim, Prime, and load. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Scott_R:
Originally Posted By NathanDrake:
looks great! I wanna get one of these. I’ve besrd that lanolin based case line doesn’t wash off that well. Is that true? So wet tumble and dry tumble line off? Does that affect the shine that the wet tumble gives?My process for rifle brass: 1. Decap with universal decapping die. 2. Wet tumble to high bling. a. dump brass into towel and roll back and forth to get most water off b. throw in dry tumbler to dry completely 3. Size 4. Dry tumble in corn cob for 10 minutes or so to remove lube. You can see when it is gone as the corn cob will no longer stick. 5. Trim, Prime, and load. I don't have a dry tumbler, or I would throw them in some corn cob media to remove the lube. My plan for this batch is: 1) Wet tumble 2) Resize and Trim 3) Soak in hot soapy water to remove lanolin lube 4) Wet tumble again with pins to clean primer pockets 5) Prime 6) Load I know it's not the most efficient process, but I want to see if I can avoid buying a dry tumbler. Edit: Does anyone use corn cob media in their FART? I might try throwing some in mine to remove the lube. |
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Posted: 10/19/2017 8:37:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Welp, after a bunch of trial amd error, i found the sweet spot for the lemishine/water ratio. Using anything more than 1/8th of a tsp would result in non shiney brass(some even got so dark it had Grayish tint). While the insides aren't as sparkly as some here, it's a step in the right direction. I might need to try running it longer time and see where that gets me. Either way, after seeing how gross that water comes out, I'm glad I'm not try tumbling dirty brass anymore.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 11/24/2017 11:11:41 PM EDT
[#17]
Picked one up on Amazon for $129. Can’t wait to try it out
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Posted: 11/24/2017 11:42:33 PM EDT
[#18]
Can only add alittle info to this thread. My best result this far has been lukewarm to warm tap water, 1.5 9mm cases of lemshine in the tumbler for 1.5 hrs. This is super fast but leaves just a touch of crud in the primer pocket and nice insides and out. I cut the top off of a 2 liter soda bottle to measure out brass. Filled to the brim is approx 900 pieces of 9mm.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 11/29/2017 2:00:22 AM EDT
[#19]
I’m using dawn detergent but seem to get a crazy amount of soap suds. I’m only using about a handful. But videos I’ve seen haven’t had near that much soap suds
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Posted: 11/29/2017 9:22:19 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NathanDrake:
I'm using dawn detergent but seem to get a crazy amount of soap suds. I'm only using about a handful. But videos I've seen haven't had near that much soap suds I use a 2 second squirt of Dawn. Count to 2 as you squirt, when you reach 2, stop squirting. When you open your tumbler the inch and a half of air space at top should be completely full of suds. That's what you want. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 11/29/2017 1:09:36 PM EDT
[#21]
That’s what I got. Just YouTube videos don’t show near that much. Maybe they let them sit awhile after shutting down
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Posted: 11/29/2017 1:18:15 PM EDT
[#22]
I've run 50 bmg and 9mm with mine. My mixture is 3 9mm cases of dawn soap and 2 lemi shine. All of my brass has come out great.
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Posted: 11/29/2017 2:31:58 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pointman66:
I have only done a few loads with the lanolin lube and wet tumbler, but I didn't notice the lube not coming off. I don't have a dry tumbler, or I would throw them in some corn cob media to remove the lube. My plan for this batch is: 1) Wet tumble 2) Resize and Trim 3) Soak in hot soapy water to remove lanolin lube 4) Wet tumble again with pins to clean primer pockets 5) Prime 6) Load I know it's not the most efficient process, but I want to see if I can avoid buying a dry tumbler. Edit: Does anyone use corn cob media in their FART? I might try throwing some in mine to remove the lube. Seems like a lot of angst on here about lube. I believe it is the resizing that requires it, but only if you do NOT have carbide resizing die, correct? I'm still thinking all I need for now while I learn, is a hand deprimer (got that), a tumbler and case prep center, and I'm thinking about going manual primer tool. I could then have ALL of my brass clean and primed while I decide between single stage turret, or progressive. If I go carbide resizing die, no worries about going back to clean lube off? Just resize, trim and reload? |
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Posted: 11/29/2017 3:30:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Enzo300: Please pardon my noobiness. Studying all of this to decide which directions to enter reloading for .300 AAC. Seems like a lot of angst on here about lube. I believe it is the resizing that requires it, but only if you do NOT have carbide resizing die, correct? No, carbide dies are common with <strong>straight wall</strong> pistol cases. Lube is used for <strong>bottlenecked</strong> rounds like 300 blk. Lube is best removed with a dry vibrating tumbler using plain corn cob. Some folks use the wrong tool (wet tumbler) for this simple process because they don't have a dry tumbler. I'm still thinking all I need for now while I learn, is a hand deprimer (got that), a tumbler Wet or dry? and case prep center, and I'm thinking about going manual primer tool. I could then have ALL of my brass clean and primed while I decide between single stage turret, or progressive. Wrong, cases need to be sized and trimmed before priming. Please do some reading in ABC's of Reloading or the front of a reloading manual to understand the reloading process. You can't learn everything from posts. If I go carbide resizing die, no worries about going back to clean lube off? Just resize, trim and reload? See above answer, carbide 223 die is about $160. Not made in 300 blk. Open up the View Quote to see all my answers. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/26/2018 2:10:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Captain_Howdy]
[#25]
Wow! It's been a very long time since I've been around on the forums but it's good to see my old thread still alive! Seems you guys have been very busy with it so now I will ask you all a question! I have been using my tumbler now and again to clean my brass as I have been loading back
in force here lately. Doing some long distance shooting! But anyways... I have noticed that repeated cleanings of my brass with my FA wet tumbler and the included pins that came with it seem to somewhat 'beat' up my brass over a period of several cleaning cycles. My brass has the appearance of little pings, if you, will all over it...very small but still there. I can only assume the pins are causing this effect. Has anyone else noticed this? I also wonder if this can be changed or affected by using the different media that has the smaller chip-like appearance? Let me know what you guys think or your individual experiences in this matter. Thanks! Wes-- |
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Posted: 1/26/2018 9:12:35 AM EDT
[#26]
This thread was "toggled" by me to keep it out of the archives.
Been wet tumbling since 2010, I have not noticed my brass getting beat up. Can you post a clear pic? |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/26/2018 11:50:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Captain_Howdy]
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
This thread was "toggled" by me to keep it out of the archives. Been wet tumbling since 2010, I have not noticed my brass getting beat up. Can you post a clear pic? I will try and post the best picture I can representing what I can to get my meaning across...  " />as you can see there are numerous pits in the brass...it is no longer smooth as it would be coming from a factory state... let me know what you think... I know this picture is enlarged and thereby maybe exaggerating the effect of what I am trying to get across but at the same time it is not...I am just simply asking a question to my fellow peers...that is all If I have presented a unique problem then I have not meant to do so...but in the same token at some point it will need to be addressed...have I gone too far with my brass? maybe failed in my method? the questions must be answered to prevent my fellow handloaders to end up at my same destination. Anyways...as always...my original intent of this thread from way back was to help and enlighten us all...and now if I am sharing this bit of information to do the same...even if it means that somehow I have failed in my own methods...I don't care...sharing knowledge...even through failure...if that is what it is...to keep others from failing...that is what counts... |
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Posted: 1/27/2018 12:45:22 AM EDT
[#28]
Never seen that on my wet tumbled cases.
Makes me suspect the SS pins have sharp ends. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2018 2:46:21 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Never seen that on my wet tumbled cases. Makes me suspect the SS pins have sharp ends. its results...as you can see my brass doesn't look as good as everyone elses does...I have noticed there are quite a few broken pins in my tumbler when I got it...maybe it was a fluke...or my bad luck...you tell me...so now do you think I am imagining this? Anyway...so far I haven't had any issues with any of my brass...but...I can only imagine it is just a matter of time before I do. I can only guess maybe a dirty chamber combined with rough brass cases to possibly cause an extraction issue? I would hope not...but as a worse possible case scenario there you have it... Anyway...that is why I asked my questions here...hopefully I brought this to attention to the right place...I felt this was the proper place for it. A civilized and focused and subjective place to question a possible problem...(possible)<note could just be my media why I said a POSSIBLE problem but maybe other folks will check into this as well and make sure their systems are good to go as well... |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2018 10:52:14 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
Thanks for the toggle sir...I believe I told you that before :) I will try and post the best picture I can representing what I can to get my meaning across... http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k632/Captain_Howdy1/4ef1f819-5215-4bc5-8cde-b9d3a71b6b05_zpsarmsu81i.jpg" target="_blank">http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k632/Captain_Howdy1/4ef1f819-5215-4bc5-8cde-b9d3a71b6b05_zpsarmsu81i.jpg as you can see there are numerous pits in the brass...it is no longer smooth as it would be coming from a factory state... let me know what you think... I know this picture is enlarged and thereby maybe exaggerating the effect of what I am trying to get across but at the same time it is not...I am just simply asking a question to my fellow peers...that is all If I have presented a unique problem then I have not meant to do so...but in the same token at some point it will need to be addressed...have I gone too far with my brass? maybe failed in my method? the questions must be answered to prevent my fellow handloaders to end up at my same destination. Anyways...as always...my original intent of this thread from way back was to help and enlighten us all...and now if I am sharing this bit of information to do the same...even if it means that somehow I have failed in my own methods...I don't care...sharing knowledge...even through failure...if that is what it is...to keep others from failing...that is what counts... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Captain_Howdy:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
This thread was "toggled" by me to keep it out of the archives. Been wet tumbling since 2010, I have not noticed my brass getting beat up. Can you post a clear pic? I will try and post the best picture I can representing what I can to get my meaning across... http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k632/Captain_Howdy1/4ef1f819-5215-4bc5-8cde-b9d3a71b6b05_zpsarmsu81i.jpg" target="_blank">http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k632/Captain_Howdy1/4ef1f819-5215-4bc5-8cde-b9d3a71b6b05_zpsarmsu81i.jpg as you can see there are numerous pits in the brass...it is no longer smooth as it would be coming from a factory state... let me know what you think... I know this picture is enlarged and thereby maybe exaggerating the effect of what I am trying to get across but at the same time it is not...I am just simply asking a question to my fellow peers...that is all If I have presented a unique problem then I have not meant to do so...but in the same token at some point it will need to be addressed...have I gone too far with my brass? maybe failed in my method? the questions must be answered to prevent my fellow handloaders to end up at my same destination. Anyways...as always...my original intent of this thread from way back was to help and enlighten us all...and now if I am sharing this bit of information to do the same...even if it means that somehow I have failed in my own methods...I don't care...sharing knowledge...even through failure...if that is what it is...to keep others from failing...that is what counts... |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2018 12:53:11 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lazyengineer: Looks like a peening effect. Why? Not sure, but possibly a way overloaded tumbler with way too much brass stuffed in it, run for way too long. As mentioned, if your pins are newish, they probably have sharp edges. I find old pins tend to have fewer problems than new ones. As to media, I switched to chips and like them better. To mitigate risk of fugative chips (which is much rarer than pins were), I do a water-only wet tumble after resizing, to rinse off the lube, and remove any possible hiding chips (of which there never are any). Last time I only ran them for 2 hours. I find with a small load a couple hours is plenty especially if I come home and deprime and get started right after a shooting session... So, back to chips...do you feel you get better results with the chips? Gonna toss that brass after this next usage. I almost think that batch of brass could be soft as well. I haven't notice that peening like that with other batches. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2018 4:34:01 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Captain_Howdy: Pins are 3 years old and have a LOT of hours on them. That particular lot of brass I have shown in that pic has only been tumbled twice and shot 3 times...I keep that lot seperated because I have been using it for testing purposes. I have 100 pieces of it that I keep together. Last time I only ran them for 2 hours. I find with a small load a couple hours is plenty especially if I come home and deprime and get started right after a shooting session... So, back to chips...do you feel you get better results with the chips? Gonna toss that brass after this next usage. I almost think that batch of brass could be soft as well. I haven't notice that peening like that with other batches.  .
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2018 6:08:15 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lazyengineer: As to better results, final product results are pretty similar. being smaller I think chips get into the primer pocket a little better - maybe. That's not why I use chips. I use chips because I like how they don't get wedged in flash holes or across the base of a casing near the bottom. My pins sometimes would http://i65.tinypic.com/2uy6n1v.jpg. redding dies or God forbid get sent down the barrel...well any of it would be terrible... I'm gonna buy a 5 pound bag and give them a go. It's not like it's that big of an expense or I haven't pissed away 40 bucks before if I don't like them anyway. Maybe my pins are bad as well. I got the FA when it first came out and a lot of my pins look like they have broken ends. I often wondered if they didn't just source out a supply of unusable bearing rollers as a pin supply in the beginning...who knows... |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/29/2018 8:42:51 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NathanDrake: looks great! I wanna get one of these. I’ve besrd that lanolin based case line doesn’t wash off that well. Is that true? So wet tumble and dry tumble line off? Does that affect the shine that the wet tumble gives? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/30/2018 1:42:25 AM EDT
[#35]
@Captain_Howdy
Not sure why you would have broken pins. I've had the FART for probably 5+ years and never came across a one broken. Haven't noticed any brass pitting like you showed with those 308 Federal cases. Sounds like changing the pins out would be a good choice. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/30/2018 7:01:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout:
@Captain_Howdy Not sure why you would have broken pins. I've had the FART for probably 5+ years and never came across a one broken. Haven't noticed any brass pitting like you showed with those 308 Federal cases. Sounds like changing the pins out would be a good choice. I got mine late in 2014. I thought it came out spring of 2014. But anyway...Definitely going to replace my media. |
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Posted: 1/31/2018 5:57:46 PM EDT
[#37]
Anybody use the Frankford Arsenal brass case polish over lemishine?
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Posted: 2/8/2018 2:09:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CTRob65]
[#38]
I have finally gone the route of wet tumbling after picking up the FART and I am having some difficulties getting my brass as bling as I have before using dry media.
I just ran a couple batches using the 2 second squirt of dawn and 4 .45 cases of lemishine (I worked up to the 4 cases). My brass is still coming out considerably darker than when I dry tumbled using FA's polish as evident in the photo. I dried using the mesh bag in the dryer trick and it might be my imagination, but I think the brass darkened up after being heated. Has anyone run across this? Do I need to increase the lemishine more to brighten the brass? The left brass was wet tumbled using Meguire's wash and wax/lemishine, the middle dry tumbled with FA's polish and the right brass was Dawn/lemishine. 
edited for spelling errors |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2018 5:00:12 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CTRob65:
I have finally gone the route of wet tumbling after picking up the FART and I am having some difficulties getting my brass as bling as I have before using dry media. I just ran a couple batches using the 2 second quit of dawn and 4 .45 cases of lemishine (I worked up to the 4 cases). My brass is still coming out considerably darker than when I dry dumbled using FA's polish as evident in the photo. I dried using the mesh bag in the dyer trick and it might be my imagination, but I think the brass darkened up after being heated. Has anyone run across this? Do I need to increase the lemishine more to brighten the brass? The left brass was wet tumbled using Meguire's wash and wax/lemishine, the middle dry tumbled with FA's polish and the right brass was Dawn/lemishine. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/197930/brass1-445338.jpg |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2018 9:08:30 PM EDT
[#40]
Not using a FART, yet, but with my mixture of dawn and Lemishine in my HF tumbler, I get darker cases if I leave them in the dehydrator too long.
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2018 12:47:53 AM EDT
[#41]
Using a FART now.... Holy F is it noisy!!
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USA
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Posted: 2/10/2018 9:13:31 AM EDT
[#42]
Wish they would make a mini tub so I don't have to load that big sucker when all i need is 100 done.
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Posted: 2/10/2018 10:59:32 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By number40Fan:
Not using a FART, yet, but with my mixture of dawn and Lemishine in my HF tumbler, I get darker cases if I leave them in the dehydrator too long. Regarding the noise of the FART ... I think a lot of the noise is due to vibrations. I am using the tumbler on the kitchen counter and I can feel it rotating at least 6' away. I never felt a dry media tumbler like I do with the FART. I need to work on a base with springs on it to help absorb the vibration. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2018 7:25:58 PM EDT
[#44]
Mine was sitting on the floor, but it is the drive gears inside the unit that makes it so noisy. At least for me.
I had some discolored brass by rinsing them off with too hot of water, too. |
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Posted: 2/11/2018 12:48:36 PM EDT
[#45]
Just ordered a F.A.R.T and some lemonshine last night. Can't wait to see how it works out. The results posted in this thread give me high hopes...They also make me want to go pickup a bunch of nasty range brass.
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Posted: 2/14/2018 9:08:25 AM EDT
[#46]
Wanting to run my process (with a question) past you guys, I'm just getting into this.
I'm running a Dillon 550C, with a Lee single stage for decapping. My process will be decap on the Lee, FART, then into the FA media separator, then into the FA brass dryer. Dillon 550 after that. At what point am I putting the case lube on? I have dawn, lemishine, FA brass polish (for vibratory tumblers, so may be useless to me), and Dillon case lube. |
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Posted: 2/14/2018 9:21:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#47]
After you have removed any primer crimp and just before resizing.
If you have any more reloading questions, please start a thread and ask, this thread is just about wet tumbling with a FART. Thanks |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2018 9:58:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lmlandlord]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By azmp5:
I ended up just finishing my 9mm brass off, alittle over 1k. Ran it for 3 hours and it came out just as great as the first set. Needless to say I am really enjoying these results. I did have a question though. I am debating on getting a universal deprimer or not and/or if i should dry tumble first. Part of me is saying "yes" on getting it so the stuff I shoot / find at the range, i can just deprime and throw in the wet tumbler. My issue with this though is that now i will have to figure out a way to wipe off the case lube after i resize (either dry tumble or wipe each case) Part of me says "no" on getting it because i can dry tumble it "clean" for maybe an hour or 2 and then run the brass through the sizer/deprimer and THEN wet tumble. my issue with this is now i have to do the extra step of tumbling it (dry) then tumble it again (wet). |
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Posted: 3/1/2018 7:06:10 PM EDT
[#49]
Did y'all receive stainless steel pins with yours?
Not a big deal, but only about half of my pins are magnetic. Fortunately I had a 5lb bag of media for a tiny rock tumbler I used to use for precision rifle stuff. Now I am just throwing away whatever wont stick to a magnet. |
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Posted: 3/1/2018 9:49:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Yeah, the pins that came with mine are a bit...variable when it comes to the magnet.
Some will jump to get to it, some won’t stick unless they make firm physical contact and even then it’s tenuous. |
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