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Posted: 1/24/2016 12:32:06 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hp6: I'm glad someone started this thread. I bought a franklin arsenal tumbler about two weeks ago when it was on sale. I have yet to use it. I just ordered a AMK PXL Extra Large PowerMag Hand Release Magnet from Amazon. It costs twice as much as the franklin arsenal one, but the reviews were better. My plan is to decap the brass, run it in the tumbler with lemon shine and dawn (maybe armor all wash like someone here suggested), separate with a Dillon separator, rinse off the brass (now that I don't have to worry about the pins), and dry. I will use the magnet to pick up the pins out of the water. I read somewhere that people cover the magnet with plastic wrap to keep it dry. I'm really hoping that this is cheaper than buying media for the dry tumblers. I was going through quite a bit before. It seems that the initial cost of the equipment for wet tumbling is higher, but the water and soap will make up the cost difference in the long run. I also got tired of all the dust. The next time you guys put in a "long squirt of Dawn" please measure the amount in a measuring cup. I would like to compare what people are doing. I use a 2 second squirt of dawn. So start squirting and count to 2, you're done. Way too messy to measure. Use a 45 ACP case full of Lemishine. No magnet needed to separate pins from water or cases. Waste of money. Use separator (dry tumbler type) to take cases out, then you have water and the pins left in the bucket. Slowly pour water out of bucket on ground. When the last of the water is leaving, you can see it and all that is left in the bucket is pins. Stop pouring. Easy peasy. |
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Posted: 1/24/2016 7:12:41 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hp6:
I will use the magnet to pick up the pins out of the water. I read somewhere that people cover the magnet with plastic wrap to keep it dry. I've been told that the plastic on the magnet is to make it easier to separate the pins from the magnet. Without the plastic, the pins can work inside the "housing" and stick directly to the magnet. |
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Posted: 1/24/2016 11:33:10 PM EDT
[#3]
I'm pretty satisfied with mine. For handgun cases I don't use the pins. I decap the brass before tumbling so it will dry easier. I found the outside of the cases look great and even the inside of the cases and primer pockets are cleaner from the washing action. Rinse and dry and the brass is ready to load. I also like the lack of dirty media dust.
I haven't tried rifle cases without the pins yet. |
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Posted: 5/4/2016 5:03:06 PM EDT
[#4]
I had a small amount of .223 I wanted to clean and a bunch of .40. Since there is no media to cause them to get stuck together, I put them in at the same time.
Worked just fine. I had to separate some nested cases on the drying towel but nothing was stuck together. 
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OR, USA
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Posted: 5/4/2016 5:19:59 PM EDT
[#5]
Didn't notice it in this thread but wanted to let you guys know about using Armoral Wash & Wax instead of dish detergent. I still use the 45 case of Lemi-Shine. The Armoral makes it so the cases don't start to tarnish again in a few weeks. It also acts as a case lube for 9mm.
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Posted: 5/4/2016 5:52:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Piratepast40:
Didn't notice it in this thread but wanted to let you guys know about using Armoral Wash & Wax instead of dish detergent. I still use the 45 case of Lemi-Shine. The Armoral makes it so the cases don't start to tarnish again in a few weeks. It also acts as a case lube for 9mm. I've been using that for awhile. I know it has come up in other wet tumbling threads. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 5/24/2016 12:06:34 AM EDT
[#7]
The tail end of a few years of shooting... Two hours later... 
It looks brighter and bling-ier because its under LED workbench lighting, just need to up the Lemishine a bit and it will be perfect. If you're on the fence at all, get one!!! |
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USA
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Posted: 5/24/2016 10:35:24 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJE:
I've been using that for awhile. I know it has come up in other wet tumbling threads. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJE:
Originally Posted By Piratepast40:
Didn't notice it in this thread but wanted to let you guys know about using Armoral Wash & Wax instead of dish detergent. I still use the 45 case of Lemi-Shine. The Armoral makes it so the cases don't start to tarnish again in a few weeks. It also acts as a case lube for 9mm. I've been using that for awhile. I know it has come up in other wet tumbling threads. How much is needed? May look into this. |
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Posted: 5/24/2016 2:58:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bearcat24:
How much is needed? May look into this. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bearcat24:
Originally Posted By AJE:
Originally Posted By Piratepast40:
Didn't notice it in this thread but wanted to let you guys know about using Armoral Wash & Wax instead of dish detergent. I still use the 45 case of Lemi-Shine. The Armoral makes it so the cases don't start to tarnish again in a few weeks. It also acts as a case lube for 9mm. I've been using that for awhile. I know it has come up in other wet tumbling threads. How much is needed? May look into this. Two cap fulls is usually what I use... that's probably a little more than needed. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/12/2016 2:05:12 PM EDT
[#10]
Just found this thread thanks to dryflash via another thread. After reading through it I noticed some complaints about the FA colander media separator. I found just buying the colander/separator unit...no bucket kit...and a Lowe's/Home Depot generic 5-gal bucket to be very effective...though not with the delivered splash guard and bucket spindle mounts. Those provided separator mounts that clip to a bucket are cheap and flimsy, and IMO they hold the separator up too high from the water in the 5-gal bucket. I found that if you notch the 5-gal bucket deep enough to hold the separator spindles but not too deep so that the separator constantly bangs into the bucket while spinning, you can get the separator deeper into the water and still retain the separator sufficiently. The deeper submersion does a better job of getting out the pins. I've done two loads since getting my FART, and I've been amazed to not find a pin remain with the cases. Maybe I need to buy a lottery ticket.
On the rubber seals on the FA tumbler container, I found that simple mineral oil from a drug store/Walmart applied thinly to the gaskets/seals allows the rubber to make a better static contact with the container and lids. This is an old trick for O-rings and rubber gaskets in many applications that makes for a good seal without introducing other chemicals that might be incompatible...though I doubt the earlier suggestion of silicone grease causes any problems. I do know the mineral oil is less messy as it quickly washes away, whereas silicone grease is intended to "stick around" more effectively. These FART tumblers are great. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/12/2016 7:50:41 PM EDT
[#11]
I just started using the FA and was also lead here from a thread I started. I'm using the Graf & Sons media separator and it's great for this. The lid keeps the pins in and it doesn't take a whole lot of water to get it up high enough that the basket rotates through the water. This helps pull the pins out and also rinses the brass. I do an initial rinse in the drum, then it goes to the separator. If there's still suds I'll dump, fill, rotate again. Once clear I dump the water from the separator put the basket of brass back in to get the excess water out of the cases. I rotate it for a bit then give it a fast spin, rotate, spin again...a few times. The fast spin gets more water out, rotating slowly re-orients the brass for the next spin.
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Posted: 8/12/2016 11:58:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Both of the above 2 posts need to doublespace after complete sentences.
Just can't read that.  |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/15/2016 11:42:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Both of the above 2 posts need to doublespace after complete sentences. Just can't read that.
This is the only forum I've heard that complaint on, I can read them just fine. I try to do the space thing but I naturally revert to normal typing. Is there something about this forum that makes it hard to read on some computers or just the readers' eyes? Can you read normal typing on other forums? |
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Posted: 8/15/2016 11:54:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RestrictedColt: This is the only forum I've heard that complaint on, I can read them just fine. I try to do the space thing but I naturally revert to normal typing. Is there something about this forum that makes it hard to read on some computers or just the readers' eyes? Can you read normal typing on other forums? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RestrictedColt: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Both of the above 2 posts need to doublespace after complete sentences. Just can't read that. This is the only forum I've heard that complaint on, I can read them just fine. I try to do the space thing but I naturally revert to normal typing. Is there something about this forum that makes it hard to read on some computers or just the readers' eyes? Can you read normal typing on other forums? It's both. Notice that 95% of posts here are double spaced, the other 5% are ignored. Your choice which you want.  Now back on the topic of Fart tumblers. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 8/17/2016 4:21:57 AM EDT
[#15]
I've been using the Harbor Freight wet SS tumbler for a couple of years and I thought I was getting my brass clean.
Then the FA unit went on sale with free shipping, so I couldn't resist. I was foolish to have waited so long. The FA was not all that more expensive than the dual HF unit plus media. The big surprise is how well the FA tumbler cleans my .223 and 6mm BR brass; MUCH better than the HF tumbler. Plus the ability to fill the FA with water reduces the amount of neck lip damage. I typically run it for 90 minutes. I use a Frankford Arsenal Standard Media Separator at a cost of $9. It's a deep colander which fits down inside a Home Depot 5 gal bucket. I dump the drum full of brass and media into the separator and rotate it back and forth while rinsing with clean water. Then I shake it a little bit, transfer the brass to a smaller bucket for another rinse and swirl, back into the separator for another shake, and that takes care of the media. I recover it from the big bucket by pouring the pins into a big sieve. A magnet takes care of any rogue pins. I roll the brass around in a terry cloth towel and dump it into a big SS baking pan. I place this in the clothes dryer using a tennis shoe rack. If you don't have a rack for your dryer, put the brass into a mesh sports bag, tie a knot in the neck, and trap the neck in the dryer door. It will hang inside the door and not bang around. Drying time is about 25 minutes. No need for a uni-tasker drying system, but check with your wife first. ;) |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/20/2016 10:32:26 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lazyengineer:
So I got my tumbler - and it's pretty neat! According to the instructions, you can wet tumble raw brass (prior to depriming or processing), and when so doing - skip the media. So I did that. The thing I'm wondering about now, is if that was such a good idea. Drying the cases seems to be going very slow, and I have real doubts that I'm going to be able to fully dry down into the primer area, in all those crannies just through the flash hole, with the spent primer still in. Because don't I now have water trapped down in the primer area? Which leaves me wondering about corrosion. Espeically if I do long term storage. And also straight up ammo reliability for the pistol brass, if I run that through a progressive with water trapped under the spent primer, and the progressive will immediately primes after decapping. How do most people manage this? I have set brass out on a cloth, outside in the wind - and that didn't do much. So I brought it on, and set it by the fireplace, but heck, how do I even know the area under the spent primer is actually dry? I can see this might work for rifle brass, shortly before resizing and then retumbling with media soon after that. But for pistol brass, that you're going to store in bulk before doing progressive runs in a few months.... [Edit: cleaned up some of the sentence structures] I know this is old but I figured I'd chime in. Put your brass in the oven and get them up over boiling temp and they'll dry pretty quickly. I go 250 in a convection oven with decapped brass, I rarely do primed cases. You can safely go higher and shorten the time it takes to get the cases up to temp., helpful with primers still in. Annealing doesn't start till 500ish so there's plenty of wiggle room in the temperature used. When you think you might be there pop a couple primers out, the blackened crud makes it easy to tell if there's any moisture left, you'll then know how long it takes for the next time. Warming the brass above room temp helps, using a desiccant helps, but once you hit the phase change temp (boiling) it's a million times faster. Crossing over to the phase change takes a bump in energy, more heat or more time; basically it'll go from 210 to 211 degrees fairly easily then take more energy to hit 212 (boiling temp at sea level). If it's quiet you might hear them sizzle when they hit the magic number, confirmation that you're in business. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 9:56:55 PM EDT
[#17]
I bought one of these tumblers a few months back but have not used it yet.
I used to do "volume" 223 brass in a cement mixer with about 750 cases and 25 pounds of corn cob medai. I'm ready to slow down a bit and will most likely be doing 6.5 Grendel brass first. |
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Posted: 9/21/2016 10:50:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RestrictedColt:
I know this is old but I figured I'd chime in. Put your brass in the oven and get them up over boiling temp and they'll dry pretty quickly. I go 250 in a convection oven with decapped brass, I rarely do primed cases. You can safely go higher and shorten the time it takes to get the cases up to temp., helpful with primers still in. Annealing doesn't start till 500ish so there's plenty of wiggle room in the temperature used. When you think you might be there pop a couple primers out, the blackened crud makes it easy to tell if there's any moisture left, you'll then know how long it takes for the next time. Warming the brass above room temp helps, using a desiccant helps, but once you hit the phase change temp (boiling) it's a million times faster. Crossing over to the phase change takes a bump in energy, more heat or more time; basically it'll go from 210 to 211 degrees fairly easily then take more energy to hit 212 (boiling temp at sea level). If it's quiet you might hear them sizzle when they hit the magic number, confirmation that you're in business. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RestrictedColt:
Originally Posted By lazyengineer:
So I got my tumbler - and it's pretty neat! According to the instructions, you can wet tumble raw brass (prior to depriming or processing), and when so doing - skip the media. So I did that. The thing I'm wondering about now, is if that was such a good idea. Drying the cases seems to be going very slow, and I have real doubts that I'm going to be able to fully dry down into the primer area, in all those crannies just through the flash hole, with the spent primer still in. Because don't I now have water trapped down in the primer area? Which leaves me wondering about corrosion. Espeically if I do long term storage. And also straight up ammo reliability for the pistol brass, if I run that through a progressive with water trapped under the spent primer, and the progressive will immediately primes after decapping. How do most people manage this? I have set brass out on a cloth, outside in the wind - and that didn't do much. So I brought it on, and set it by the fireplace, but heck, how do I even know the area under the spent primer is actually dry? I can see this might work for rifle brass, shortly before resizing and then retumbling with media soon after that. But for pistol brass, that you're going to store in bulk before doing progressive runs in a few months.... [Edit: cleaned up some of the sentence structures] I know this is old but I figured I'd chime in. Put your brass in the oven and get them up over boiling temp and they'll dry pretty quickly. I go 250 in a convection oven with decapped brass, I rarely do primed cases. You can safely go higher and shorten the time it takes to get the cases up to temp., helpful with primers still in. Annealing doesn't start till 500ish so there's plenty of wiggle room in the temperature used. When you think you might be there pop a couple primers out, the blackened crud makes it easy to tell if there's any moisture left, you'll then know how long it takes for the next time. Warming the brass above room temp helps, using a desiccant helps, but once you hit the phase change temp (boiling) it's a million times faster. Crossing over to the phase change takes a bump in energy, more heat or more time; basically it'll go from 210 to 211 degrees fairly easily then take more energy to hit 212 (boiling temp at sea level). If it's quiet you might hear them sizzle when they hit the magic number, confirmation that you're in business. I usually set the oven at 300, and once warm put in the brass, then set it to 250 once I put them in. Cook for an hour and water is gone. |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 11/28/2016 12:27:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dan-357]
[#19]
Just picked up a FART, I have been wanting one for awhile and finally pulled the trigger on it.
First batch came out pretty great! 
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Posted: 12/28/2016 10:43:36 AM EDT
[#20]
I decided to pull the trigger on a FART. LOVE IT! Also decided to get one of the FA Brass Dryers from Amazon, works great! It's fast an convenient.
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Posted: 12/29/2016 12:29:48 AM EDT
[#21]
I received a FART as a Christmas present. I love it.
It tumbled 450pcs .308 with no problems. I haven't tested the claim on the box of "1000 5.56 cases". I will??. I use a t-shirt over a bucket and the strainer end to separate the pins. I pour out most of the water then put a t shirt over a bucket. It acts as a strainer. Continue to pour/shake until I get most of the pins out. I dump brass on a white t-shirt with towels underneath to dry. I run an oscillating fan while it dries. I find the pins stick to the t-shirt ALOT less than towels. |
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Posted: 1/10/2017 1:05:42 AM EDT
[#22]
Another advocate of not using the pins, as a compromise between bling and time.
Today I loaded up ~1200 pieces of decapped 9mm, along with ~ 2 tsp of dawn (1-1.5 second squeeze) and 1.75 cases of lemi-shine in 45ACP shells. Tumbled for 90 minutes, rinsed a few times and done! Some of the primer pockets are still a bit dirty and the inside of the cases are not mirror finish, however spending less than 5 actual 'me' minutes between loading and spreading them on a towel to dry, I'll take the 'less than perfect' outcome 8 days out of the week. 
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Posted: 1/10/2017 1:49:49 AM EDT
[#23]
With my water I use 2 45 ACP cases full of lemishine. Instead of dawn I use wash and wax soap you use to wash your car with. It leaves a little wax on the cases to prevent them from tarnishing before you get a chance to load everything up.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/10/2017 3:11:20 AM EDT
[#24]
I just tumbled 500 case of 308 with pins. There was not enough room left in the barrel to allow enough agitation with the longer brass. ran 2, 2hr runs changing the water in between each run and adding lemishine and soap. I think 400 cases might be tops in a FART and still get them clean.
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Posted: 1/11/2017 12:39:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ppknut]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout:
I just tumbled 500 case of 308 with pins. There was not enough room left in the barrel to allow enough agitation with the longer brass. ran 2, 2hr runs changing the water in between each run and adding lemishine and soap. I think 400 cases might be tops in a FART and still get them clean. By my calcs, weights, and measurements on .308's, The FART maxes out their 30 pound limit (including water, Dawn, pins) at about 430 to 450 (de-primed). While I'm sure you can get more in the drum, I figure Franklin Armory knows the limitations on their design. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/25/2017 7:37:07 PM EDT
[#26]
Has anyone else had problems with this unit leaking? I can't get either side to not leak and I feel like I'm going to break the caps if I tighten them any more.
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Posted: 3/25/2017 10:14:11 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KaBar3:
Has anyone else had problems with this unit leaking? I can't get either side to not leak and I feel like I'm going to break the caps if I tighten them any more. but otherwise; Yes. They gotta be tight to keep it from leaking. |
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Posted: 3/25/2017 11:58:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: RegionRat]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KaBar3:
Has anyone else had problems with this unit leaking? I can't get either side to not leak and I feel like I'm going to break the caps if I tighten them any more. I agree that one small improvement they could/should make on the FART is the lids. Some ears on both the lids and body that help apply torque would be good. |
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Posted: 3/26/2017 1:44:30 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RegionRat:
With large diameter threads, it takes lots of torque to generate gasket clamping load. I agree that one small improvement they could/should make on the FART is the lids. Some ears on both the lids and body that help apply torque would be good. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 3/26/2017 3:13:48 AM EDT
[#30]
I bought one about a month ago. Having issues with the caps leaking tho. Kind of annoying unless I tighten them hernia tight.
But my process is Deprime Dump in the brass fill with hot water Squirt in some dawn and dump in some lemishine and let er go |
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Posted: 3/27/2017 10:21:20 AM EDT
[#31]
I have a bottle of mineral oil, and I use a Q-Tip and swab a thin layer of mineral oil on the rubber gaskets before screwing the cap on, which really helps them to seal well. No more leaks.
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Posted: 4/22/2017 12:40:40 AM EDT
[#32]
Just got my FART today and have a noob question for those that lube their pistol cases to make press operation easier. Would you lube, decap & resize and THEN wet tumble & dry? That obviously adds another step to the process, but seems like it would result with the most blingy brass inside & out.
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Posted: 4/23/2017 12:05:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Scott_In_OKC:
Just got my FART today and have a noob question for those that lube their pistol cases to make press operation easier. Would you lube, decap & resize and THEN wet tumble & dry? That obviously adds another step to the process, but seems like it would result with the most blingy brass inside & out. So I decap, then wet tumble, then lube and size. If need to get the lube off, I either rub it off or dry tumble again. |
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SOM
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Posted: 4/24/2017 1:34:33 AM EDT
[#34]
I have the FA tumbler and also really like it.
My old HF with home made drum is now on baffle cleaning duty. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2017 3:42:59 PM EDT
[#35]
Hey has anyone figured out a simple/expedient spare tumbler for this unit? I like the FA rubber lined drum, as the rubber should cushion impacts, and the shape induces good churn. I'd like another, but can't seem to find one on the cheap.
I've updated my procedures with my FART. I deprime rifle brass while it's still dirty, and wet tumble with SS chips, to clean out the primer pockets as well as everything else, and also to get more assured and more rapid drying of rifle cases. I then lube and resize. I then tumble again, without media, to rinse out everything. but also as a quality assurance step, since if I missed any media removal in the first go, the water rinse in the second tumble, should remove it this time (is my theory). And this gets off the wet-lube. Trying to get the last bit of media out of the single drum I have, is a hassle, and it'd be nice to just have one drum for media usage, and another drum just for wet usage - hence the ask of approaches to having a spare drum. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2017 5:26:12 PM EDT
[#36]
Cheaper Than Dirt sells the spare drum for $69.55.
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USA
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Posted: 5/9/2017 11:47:26 AM EDT
[#37]
get the magnet. it works great to pick up the pins
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN659G?tag=vglnk-c102-20 |
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Posted: 5/10/2017 7:32:26 PM EDT
[#38]
Tumbler is on the way. Found some Lemi Shine Booster. Do you use the same amount as the
regular Lemi Shine? |
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Posted: 5/10/2017 8:13:50 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By farl:
Tumbler is on the way. Found some Lemi Shine Booster. Do you use the same amount as the regular Lemi Shine? Didn't see any of the regular lemi shine. Going to figure it out this weekend. |
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Posted: 5/14/2017 10:59:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Sinister]
[#40]
Not sure if it's peculiar to the Frankford or all of the rotating tumblers but I found that Dillon spray lube doesn't wash completely off even with 3 hours of tumbling, leaving 5.56 cases a little off-color. It took three tries (changing water every hour) to get OK-bling.
The large Dillon case media separator works well to separate pins and brass if you fill it with water to the brim -- the pins drop off and go to the bottom of the tub. The Frankford magnet is nice. I thought it was a good investment, though I'm torn (time-wise) between dry and wet. |
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Posted: 5/14/2017 11:34:47 AM EDT
[#41]
I have found wet tumblers clean best and a dry tumbler with plain corn cob to remove the lube the best.
And with a dry tumbler, there is no drying time. You can remove lube with a wet tumbler but you have to double the amount of Dawn and clean tumbler and pins every so often. You do that by running tumbler with no brass, normal amount of Lemishine and Dawn. Also remember the amount of Lemishine depends on your local water chemistry. For me a 45 ACP case full is perfect. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/15/2017 11:37:41 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I have found wet tumblers clean best and a dry tumbler with plain corn cob to remove the lube the best. And with a dry tumbler, there is no drying time. You can remove lube with a wet tumbler but you have to double the amount of Dawn and clean tumbler and pins every so often. You do that by running tumbler with no brass, normal amount of Lemishine and Dawn. Also remember the amount of Lemishine depends on your local water chemistry. For me a 45 ACP case full is perfect. For spray lubes like One-shot, etc, I've heard a couple people mention that the wet-tumble doesn't work as well, and either do dry lube, or have to run their wet tumbler a real long time. |
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Posted: 5/15/2017 12:54:36 PM EDT
[#43]
I used to wet tumble cases for a friend that used one shot for lube.
Worked exactly like in my previous post. The common mistake made is not to double the amount of dawn. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:36:05 AM EDT
[#44]
Has anyone tried trisodium phosphate or TSP?
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Posted: 5/24/2017 8:09:21 AM EDT
[#45]
Why? Lemishine is cheap and works well.
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Posted: 6/1/2017 12:33:01 AM EDT
[#46]
Just got my FART today, my magnet comes tomorrow. Can't wait to try it out. I use Unique lube, so I'll have to stick with dry tumbling to remove the case lube. Still, after losing some of my brass i processed a few years back (when i was just starting out) recently due to corrosion of pocket primers, I'm excited about having clean pockets and bright bling.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 7/15/2017 11:56:29 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 345Hemi:
Mine sat for 2 weeks inside my wet tumbler 
Came out dark grayish and the nickel cases were ugly as hell. They still shot fine. I just did this but 16 hours instead of 2 weeks |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 7:29:49 AM EDT
[#48]
Just tried without pins on rifle brass. Outside looks great, inside not so great. Pretty sure its the bottle neck. Will be doing pistol today without pins to see if inside gets cleaned or not. Tumbling works great but those friggin pins suck using a magnet to pick them up.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 9:19:06 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bearcat24:
Just tried without pins on rifle brass. Outside looks great, inside not so great. Pretty sure its the bottle neck. Will be doing pistol today without pins to see if inside gets cleaned or not. Tumbling works great but those friggin pins suck using a magnet to pick them up. To me, the results are worth the extra effort, but then again, I also de-cap before tumbling which a lot of people say is a waste of time as well. Hopefully, you are happy with the pistol results after trying without the pins. Be sure to let us know how they look. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 9:57:46 AM EDT
[#50]
I saw one post mention it, so I thought I would mention my experience with suppressor baffles in my FA tumbler.
Rim fire stainless baffles get caked and are a pain to clean without using "the dip"; after about a thousand rounds of 22 I run my baffles through the FA tumbler, with pins, and Dawn, for two hours. They come out like new, and no rounded edges thus far. |
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