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Posted: 7/5/2020 7:57:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VegasSaint: Hey all, I have a bunch of these 150gr RNFP from Berry's for my 30-30 but as they are cheap, I have been trying to make them work for supers. So far it's not really happening due to feed issues. Anyone had any success with these? https://www.diamondkbrass.com/images/P/rsz_30-30cal150grrnfp.jpg https://www.diamondkbrass.com/30-30-150gr-RN-100-ct.html Thanks! What you have to do to get a generic .308 bullet to feed. See my post on page 1 of this thread. |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 8:18:36 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cucamelsmd15: Oh no, I 100% know it's the H110 but I have a ton of it. 20.0gr were just about all 5 shots through the same hole at 50 yards. Anything less were 3-6" sized groups. These are CCI400 primers too which seem to show pressure signs earlier than harder primers. I was more intrigued about switching from the vmax/zmax to Barnes in terms of comparable load data and performance. My supers are used for lots of critter control, so accuracy and terminal performance are important. Here's a PDF from Barnes with load data, including data for H110. They have a 110 grain flat base and a 120 grain boat tail TAC-TX bullet, both of which should be awesome. And here's their performance data on their loading of the 110 grain bullet, including terminal performance in ballistic gel. It looks awesome. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 7/5/2020 9:34:59 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Use the .250 ogive method to determine OAL. What you have to do to get a generic .308 bullet to feed. See my post on page 1 of this thread. I did follow that but I am not sure if I got the measurement spot on. More of a ball park. Also, I am using Magpul 300 BLK mags. Not sure how that is a factor? I had a few double feeds but mainly misfeed where the round was angled up like it had missed the chamber. Thanks. |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 10:51:44 PM EDT
[#4]
With the Magpul mags you shouldn't have to worry about the .250 ogive as the front bump is gone in that mag.
The .250 ogive was a work around for the bump in a 5.56 mag. Why don't you tell us what you're OAL is? Hard to give good answers when you don't have all the facts. |
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Posted: 7/6/2020 12:55:47 PM EDT
[#5]
I’m sure it’s in here somewhere, but what’s the best primer pocket swaging system out there? Some of the converted LC brass I have has very tight primer pockets.
I like the idea of the Hornady, because it’s press mounted so I can set up my press and run 500 through it and be done. |
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Posted: 7/6/2020 5:56:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lilMAC25: I’m sure it’s in here somewhere, but what’s the best primer pocket swaging system out there? Some of the converted LC brass I have has very tight primer pockets. I like the idea of the Hornady, because it’s press mounted so I can set up my press and run 500 through it and be done. For identical head stamps, the Dillon Super Swage is pretty awesome. If not identical, there are other options. I think the best high production rate tool might depend on what press you have. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 7/6/2020 6:01:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: VegasSaint]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: With the Magpul mags you shouldn't have to worry about the .250 ogive as the front bump is gone in that mag. The .250 ogive was a work around for the bump in a 5.56 mag. Why don't you tell us what you're OAL is? Hard to give good answers when you don't have all the facts. I have tried two lengths, 1.975 and when using the .250 ogive method, they were 1.9075. The shorter length had more misfeeding. As I was being cautious and starting low (with H110), velocity was 1600-1700. The lower has an A5 tube with an A5H2 buffer. Do I just need to load them hotter? I do have another lower I can use with a standard carbine buffer and tube. Thanks for your help. |
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Posted: 7/6/2020 11:33:23 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VegasSaint: I have tried two lengths, 1.975 and when using the .250 ogive method, they were 1.9075. The shorter length had more misfeeding. As I was being cautious and starting low (with H110), velocity was 1600-1700. The lower has an A5 tube with an A5H2 buffer. Do I just need to load them hotter? I do have another lower I can use with a standard carbine buffer and tube. Thanks for your help. I was working up slowly and everything was fine at 16.5 grs, 17.0 I blew a primer. So since that day I only use H-110 in 300 blk with bullets 135 gr or lighter. Anything heavier I use Lil'Gun. So I'm hesitant to advise working up as long as you're using H-110. I don't know the numbers of my buffer tube or buffer, I've always use standard carbine 5.56 parts. Try swapping lowers. |
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Posted: 7/8/2020 1:59:01 PM EDT
[#9]
@dryflash3
Been reading this thread. At about page 55 now. Just a quick q. If I'm not using lead bullets, only only factory bullets. Is it necessary to expand my 300 brass before loading factory bullets. I mean more than my standard resizing die? And if so,. Do I expand, then load, then seat the bullet, then crimp in another step, or will the normal for for crimp for me? Or should I wait and get the Lee fcd, and separate steps of seating and crimping? |
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Posted: 7/8/2020 2:28:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TxLewis: @dryflash3 Been reading this thread. At about page 55 now. Just a quick q. If I'm not using lead bullets, only only factory bullets. Is it necessary to expand my 300 brass before loading factory bullets. I mean more than my standard resizing die? And if so,. Do I expand, then load, then seat the bullet, then crimp in another step, or will the normal for for crimp for me? Or should I wait and get the Lee fcd, and separate steps of seating and crimping? If you're using jacketed bullets, 300 blk bullet seating is like any other bottleneck case, chamfer the inside of the neck is all that's needed. What is different is OAL when using standard .308 bullets. Use the .250 ogive method, explained on page 1 in this thread, bullets up to 180 grs. Bullets over 180 gr and bullets designed for 300 blk seat to mag length. I never seat and crimp a bullet in the same die, any caliber. I don't believe in seating a bullet as it's being crimped.  My 300 blk dies and my collection of dummy rounds. Notice the FCD on the right, yes you should get one. The black Sharpie line is the .250 ogive point that should be on the front bump on the mag. The Barnes 110 gr Tax-TX has no line as it's a bullet designed for 300 blk so seated to mag length. I see I explained how to set one up on page 55, and in the last page or so. I was a bit confused as to why I was paged to page 55 of this thread, no new post there of course. Then went to last page of thread to find your post/questions. Welcome to the Reloading Forum, I have enjoyed your posts in Gd over the years. Any other questions, just post them up. I read every post in every thread in this forum. |
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Posted: 7/8/2020 7:47:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: sheltot]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I've had scary results with H-110 and 150 gr bullets. I was working up slowly and everything was fine at 16.5 grs, 17.0 I blew a primer. So since that day I only use H-110 in 300 blk with bullets 135 gr or lighter. Anything heavier I use Lil'Gun. So I'm hesitant to advise working up as long as you're using H-110. I don't know the numbers of my buffer tube or buffer, I've always use standard carbine 5.56 parts. Try swapping lowers. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By VegasSaint: I have tried two lengths, 1.975 and when using the .250 ogive method, they were 1.9075. The shorter length had more misfeeding. As I was being cautious and starting low (with H110), velocity was 1600-1700. The lower has an A5 tube with an A5H2 buffer. Do I just need to load them hotter? I do have another lower I can use with a standard carbine buffer and tube. Thanks for your help. I was working up slowly and everything was fine at 16.5 grs, 17.0 I blew a primer. So since that day I only use H-110 in 300 blk with bullets 135 gr or lighter. Anything heavier I use Lil'Gun. So I'm hesitant to advise working up as long as you're using H-110. I don't know the numbers of my buffer tube or buffer, I've always use standard carbine 5.56 parts. Try swapping lowers. I have to add my concurrence. Working up loads for 147 great loads went from okay to flattened and one popped primer in a tenth of a grain with H110. So I save that for light bullets, Lil'Gun for the mid weights and AA1680 for subs. ETS: I also agree about seating and crimping as separate steps. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 7/10/2020 11:38:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I've had scary results with H-110 and 150 gr bullets. I was working up slowly and everything was fine at 16.5 grs, 17.0 I blew a primer. So since that day I only use H-110 in 300 blk with bullets 135 gr or lighter. Anything heavier I use Lil'Gun. So I'm hesitant to advise working up as long as you're using H-110. I don't know the numbers of my buffer tube or buffer, I've always use standard carbine 5.56 parts. Try swapping lowers. Lower swap will be my next move. I'll grab a different powder as well. |
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Posted: 7/10/2020 11:46:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VegasSaint: Lower swap will be my next move. I'll grab a different powder as well. |
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Posted: 7/11/2020 9:53:29 PM EDT
[#14]
Looking at getting into reloading, prompted by 300 blk shooting subs.
Bump for more info. |
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Posted: 7/12/2020 2:12:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Macumazahn: Looking at getting into reloading, prompted by 300 blk shooting subs. Bump for more info.  Just hit the Subscribe button for this thread to be in you're Subscriptions. |
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WV, USA
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Posted: 7/28/2020 10:55:53 PM EDT
[#16]
Has anyone had success with Brazos Precision 215gr coated 300blk bullets? I'm going to place one more large bullet order and I want to order somewhere that has coated 300blk. They are cheap. Sometimes you get what you pay for, so I was curious if anyone used them?
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Posted: 7/29/2020 12:41:14 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By big_aug: Has anyone had success with Brazos Precision 215gr coated 300blk bullets? I'm going to place one more large bullet order and I want to order somewhere that has coated 300blk. They are cheap. Sometimes you get what you pay for, so I was curious if anyone used them? Yes..I Have..and others have..(maybe not here) but yup..they work.. I got some others from Acme bullets..155gr flat nose that are NOT working but the Brazos (think u technically mean 217gr) but yeah.. Functioning great compared to these acme ones I've got that are jamming cuz I'm having to load them so short . |
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Posted: 7/29/2020 3:12:03 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By s10nova: Yes..I Have..and others have..(maybe not here) but yup..they work.. I got some others from Acme bullets..155gr flat nose that are NOT working but the Brazos (think u technically mean 217gr) but yeah.. Functioning great compared to these acme ones I've got that are jamming cuz I'm having to load them so short . Was using 2400, took 8.0 grs to function. Fed fine, OAL was 1.760. Used the .250 ogive method to find OAL. See my post on page 1 for more about .250 ogive method. |
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Posted: 8/1/2020 4:27:41 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I have loaded a 155 gr FP, Lee mold, meant for 30-30 in 300 blk. Was using 2400, took 8.0 grs to function. Fed fine, OAL was 1.760. Used the .250 ogive method to find OAL. See my post on page 1 for more about .250 ogive method. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 8/1/2020 11:32:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Give us an update when that happens. I ended up admitting defeat on the 30-30 bullets. While waiting for powder I went back to the drawing board and tested chambering dummy rounds at different lengths. Couldn’t get them to work which is shame because I have a ton and they are cheap. On a different track, for those that use the Lee FCD, what amount (measurement) of crimp do you go with? Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/1/2020 11:33:30 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Landshark9025: You didn't happen to chrono those, did you? I've had really good target results with the 312-155 2R but am thinking I'd like something with a flatter me plat for hunting. |
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Posted: 8/1/2020 11:36:26 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VegasSaint: I ended up admitting defeat on the 30-30 bullets. While waiting for powder I went back to the drawing board and tested chambering dummy rounds at different lengths. Couldn't get them to work which is shame because I have a ton and they are cheap. On a different track, for those that use the Lee FCD, what amount (measurement) of crimp do you go with? Thanks. First never follow Lee die instructions unless you want to over crimp by a factor of 4 and make unsightly marks on your cases and your ammo looks like a rookie loaded it. Next install a proper locknut on the FCD. Unless you want to adjust it every time you use it. (Hornady makes the best) Look straight down at FCD while in press. Notice 4 slots that are the gaps between the crimping collets. You start with case run all the way up and slowly lower die until you feel contact. Now adjust die down slightly checking the collet gap closure. Repeat as needed until the collet gap has closed half way. That's what you want. Lock down locknut. Done. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2020 12:05:16 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: You don't use a measurement, you do it by eyeball. First never follow Lee die instructions unless you want to over crimp by a factor of 4 and make unsightly marks on your cases and your ammo looks like a rookie loaded it. Next install a proper locknut on the FCD. Unless you want to adjust it every time you use it. (Hornady makes the best) Look straight down at FCD while in press. Notice 4 slots that are the gaps between the crimping collets. You start with case run all the way up and slowly lower die until you feel contact. Now adjust die down slightly checking the collet gap closure. Repeat as needed until the collet gap has closed half way. That's what you want. Lock down locknut. Done. Good info, thanks. Going off of memory, I think I am a little over half way closed. I'll double check it though. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 12:33:37 AM EDT
[#24]
Dryflash3, seriously, thanks for the effort you put in here.
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Posted: 8/2/2020 3:45:34 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TxLewis: Dryflash3, seriously, thanks for the effort you put in here. 
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Posted: 8/2/2020 11:29:44 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bsev81: I've grown fond of Accurate #9, a lot quieter and cleaner than 1680. I have not tried anything lighter than 220 SMK's though. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bsev81: Originally Posted By czgunner: I'm done with 1680. It's too dirty and too loud. What do you guys have for quiet, clean, subsonic loads? Factory Aero 8" pistol upper, suppressed. Bullet is Nosler CC 190 grain. I've got a smattering of powders. Tried some Reloader 7 yesterday with good results. I've grown fond of Accurate #9, a lot quieter and cleaner than 1680. I have not tried anything lighter than 220 SMK's though. I’ve had good results using AA#9 with 220 SMKs. As noted, 1680 is really loud, which is counterproductive when shooting suppressed. I have not had such good luck with #9 and lighter bullets. Shooting 150s I wasn’t getting primers starting to flatten, and I started blowing primers when I tried shooting them suppressed. I have a fair amount of H110 but only a few thousand mag primers. I’m in good shape for standard SR primers though. So I’m still looking for a good alternative to H110 that doesn’t need mag primers. Although that still tends to give the best accuracy, compared to 1680, Lil Gun, or #9. I stopped using 4227 in magnum revolvers a couple decades ago. It just throws too much unburned powder all over the place. Does it do the same with 300BLK? |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2020 12:14:03 PM EDT
[#27]
Good day all.
To answer GarrettJ's question: Does IMR 4227 magnum pistol powder leave a considerable amount of unburned powder? IMR 4227 has been and is one of my go-to powders for 300BLK. And I don't see any noticeable amount of unburned powder. The only powder I've ever had any problem with unburned powder mess was AA 5744. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 12:56:55 PM EDT
[#28]
4227 burns about 80% in an 8-inch barrel
Only burns about 90% in a 20-inch barrel At least those are the numbers if you believe Quickload. I've fired it in supers and subs. It works OK for subs, and has good load density. A bit slow for supers. If you are shooting suppressed, ANY powder makes the gun filthy. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 1:01:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: W_E_G]
[#29]
By comparison, even Hodgdon CFE/BLK only burns about 65%-70% of the powder charge in an 8-inch barrel shooting 13 grains with 200-grain subs.
Again, that's if you trust Quickload for its powder-burn numbers. Everything super out of the 8-inch gun with no suppressor was very blasty. EVERYTHING. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 1:05:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: W_E_G]
[#30]
If you are worried about primers with heavier bullets and H-110, just REDUCE the darn powder charge.
If you are shooting 150-grain class bullets at supersonic velocities from a 300 Blackout, you're just plinking anyway. So, don't beat up the brass or beat up the gun for plinking ammo. 300 Blackout for any "serious" work is for lighter bullets at supersonic velocity, and heavies for subsonics. Anything else is just plinking. This load should run fine without any primer drama. I wouldn't try hunting elephant's with it. But if all you are doing is punching paper or tin cans, there is no reason to push it.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 1:19:39 PM EDT
[#31]
Here's some chronograph-report and load data from my tinkering with H-110 and the "M80" bullet (which is a 147-ish grain bullet)
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 2:25:25 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By W_E_G: If you are worried about primers with heavier bullets and H-110, just REDUCE the darn powder charge. It doesn't have anything to do with the load or primer hardness, and everything to do with the power. For whatever reason, H110 is more difficult to light consistently than most other powders and I've seen issues with it when using standard primers. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 2:43:26 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VegasSaint: I did follow that but I am not sure if I got the measurement spot on. More of a ball park. Also, I am using Magpul 300 BLK mags. Not sure how that is a factor? I had a few double feeds but mainly misfeed where the round was angled up like it had missed the chamber. I've been loading heavies in .300 Whisper for 15 or 20 years. In the past I had removed the ribs from Pmags, as well as taking a dremil to the ribs on USGI mags to get the long SMKs to load correctly. It's much better now that companies are making .300BLK-specific mags. For what it's worth I've started using different mags for .300BLK than what I use for 5.56 so as to not get the wrong mag into the wrong gun. Using clear or translucent mags helps too. I had a handful of Lancer L5 mags for .458 Socom, and found they work great for the long SMKs with no modification. You can see the stack of 220 SMKs in the 30-round mag. The 110 VMAX in the 20-round mag obviously work. I also threw in one of the modified USGI mags from back in the day so you can see what I'm talking about. 
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Posted: 8/2/2020 3:24:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: W_E_G]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GarrettJ: It doesn't have anything to do with the load or primer hardness, and everything to do with the power. For whatever reason, H110 is more difficult to light consistently than most other powders and I've seen issues with it when using standard primers. Maybe you can clarify what you mean by "light consistently." I had zero duds firing any of the H-110/M80 loads I posted. If there is some "less-than-ideal" standard deviation in velocity, rest assured I do not care. This is not a match-grade gun, and its not being used for match-grade applications. 91% loading density is more than adequate for reliable ignition of H-110 I use MAGNUM small rifle primers for every application that requires a small rifle primer. I do this because the "standard" small rifle primers are notoriously thin. Standard small rifle primers (every brand) run about 0.016" thickness. Whereas MAGNUM small rifle primers (every brand) run about 0.024" thickness. There is no reason to use standard small rifle primers for ANY application unless your gun has such a weak hammer spring, that it cannot detonate a magnum primer. Further, there is no evidence whatsoever that magnum primers increase pressure one iota. I have chronograph-tested both types, and the difference in velocity is non-existent given otherwise identical components (brass, bullet, powder charge, overall length). By contrast, I've had plenty of problems (piercing, blanking, inversion) with standard small rifle primers at 5.56 pressures. The 300 Blackout can easily handle 5.56 pressures. But I will allow that the size of the gas port of most 300BO guns runs the bolt pretty hard, and will generally leave a larger-than-5.56 extractor mark on the case rim. While this may bother some, I've fired such brass four times, and it functions fine, despite the significant extractor mark on the rim. The reason 300BO has a lower recommended SAAMI pressure is because the military wanted the spec for supers to be low enough that their subs would still cycle with whatever-size gas port the military likes to run on their 300BO guns. So more of an expedient/practical decision to set 300BO SAAMI number 7,000 PSI lower than the 5.56 SAAMI number. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 3:51:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: W_E_G]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VegasSaint: Hey all, I have a bunch of these 150gr RNFP from Berry's for my 30-30 but as they are cheap, I have been trying to make them work for supers. So far it's not really happening due to feed issues. Anyone had any success with these? https://www.diamondkbrass.com/images/P/rsz_30-30cal150grrnfp.jpg https://www.diamondkbrass.com/30-30-150gr-RN-100-ct.html Thanks! What "feed issue" are you having? Is the nose of the bullet digging into the little "divider" in the barrel extension that serves as the feed-ramp? I was having problems with the fat(ish) nose of the Lehigh "Controlled Chaos" bullet hanging-up on the sharp edges of that part of the barrel extension. I then spent about an hour tediously knocking-down the sharp edge (particularly the one on the right side) with a stone dremel bit - just running it with my fingers, not chucked-up into the actual tool, and then smoothing with 400 grit. Before I took down the edge, the edge was so sharp it would shave a fingernail like a knife blade. Now its rounded and dull, and better-blended with the receiver. Those Lehigh bullets run like a champ now.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 4:15:51 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By W_E_G: Maybe you can clarify what you mean by "light consistently." How about failure to light off. I had a .357 Max completely fail to light. It was strange. I got a “pop” like a squib, opened the action (T/C Contender) and the case popped out the back from the pressure from the little bit of powder that did burn. The chamber was full of powder, which was discolored to a tan/brown from trying to burn. Also, many reloading manuals note that magnum primers burn around 20% hotter than standard primers and are intended for powders that are more difficult to light. It’s interesting that they specifically mention H110/Win 296 as heir example. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 4:33:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: W_E_G]
[#37]
I've seen the remarks in the loading manuals and every other medium.
I've also tested. My tests show ZERO change in velocity of rounds loaded with magnum or standard primers. ZERO. Who knows what "hotter" means. More primer compound? Different primer compound? Longer duration of flame? But what do I know? I've only been using magnum primers in AR's since the 90's. I'm waiting for the valid research that shows that magnum primers make any difference in pressures. So, you had one dud with the .357 maximum. What are we to infer from that? Duds happen. Even with factory-produced ammo. I very well am familiar with the "detonation" concerns about using slow-burning powders in reduced charges. 91% loading density is not the sort of thing that would fall in that category. And there is a big difference between duds and detonations. While we're at it, how about this little thing from the Quickload manual. Now, the author of it might not know what he's talking about. After all, he only writes software for the firearms industry.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 6:19:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GarrettJ]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By W_E_G: I've seen the remarks in the loading manuals and every other medium. I've also tested. My tests show ZERO change in velocity of rounds loaded with magnum or standard primers. ZERO... I didn’t see where anyone claimed otherwise. You seem to be under the impression that someone is arguing that you should not use magnum primers. If so, I missed it. I had said H110 does better with a mag primer and when you asked what I meant I gave one example. Your quickload reference states that mag primers should be used with spherical powders (of which H110 is one). Which is what I had stated in the first place. I’ve used standard primers with other powders with no issues, but they don’t work so well with H110. That’s all I said. That’s great that you use mag primers for everything. And thanks for all of the extra info. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 8:01:08 PM EDT
[#39]
H110 is a little more consistent with magnum primers because it’s a pretty picky powder. It’s at its best when loaded pretty close to maximum; it’s a powder that goes from “meh” to “WOW look at that flattened primer!” in just a tiny change in powder weight.
I keep my H110 for .30 Carbine, which is what it was apparently developed for. I use Lil’ Gun for 300 Blackout because it’s NOT picky like H110. All my tests were consistent: a little more powder (below max) meant a little more velocity without pressure signs at all. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2020 9:21:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: VegasSaint]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GarrettJ: I've been loading heavies in .300 Whisper for 15 or 20 years. In the past I had removed the ribs from Pmags, as well as taking a dremil to the ribs on USGI mags.... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GarrettJ: I've been loading heavies in .300 Whisper for 15 or 20 years. In the past I had removed the ribs from Pmags, as well as taking a dremil to the ribs on USGI mags.... I have no issues with the heavier bullets, especially with the Magpul 300BLK mags. Originally Posted By W_E_G: What "feed issue" are you having? Is the nose of the bullet digging into the little "divider" in the barrel extension that serves as the feed-ramp? Sometimes it doesn't clear the receiver below the feed ramp and gets stuck there horizontally. Sometimes it is angled up and hitting above the chamber. I can't figure it out. |
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Posted: 8/2/2020 11:33:41 PM EDT
[#41]
I'm wondering what percentage of those all-of-a-sudden flat primers with H-110 were non-magnum primers.
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Posted: 8/3/2020 10:28:16 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By W_E_G: I'm wondering what percentage of those all-of-a-sudden flat primers with H-110 were non-magnum primers. Makes no difference in my experience. H110 is picky. You can run it with either type of primer, and unless you’re “in the zone” that the powder likes for the volume of case that it’s occupying, it’ll give you meh performance, or suddenly much higher pressures. This is true whether you’re loading it with 300 Blackout, .30 Carbine (tough to go too high because of the small case), or .357 Magnum. In fact in my (limited) experience with .357 and H110, there’s a very, very narrow range of powder weights that work with 125 grain JHPs. Much too picky for me when there are other, less load-sensitive powders that do just fine with such rounds. H110 isn’t anywhere near the “only” powder that is sensitive to load density, it’s just pretty dramatic about it. Unique will be filthy unless you load it at the right density - and it likes warmer loads better. Oh, and you CAN load heavy bullets in 300 Blackout with Unique. They probably won’t cycle an AR but they work, and are reputed to be pretty quiet. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 12:19:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: W_E_G]
[#43]
Interested in comments on this load.
This will be a "plinking" load because I have a strong supply of 150-grain FMJ's and CFE-BLK powder. Just want some trigger time with the suppressor at subsonic velocity. I have a better load with 200-grain bullets for "serious" (whatever that is) subsonic work. I point out the 78% loading density. Has anybody actually experienced CFE-BLK failing to light at a density of about this range? I'm not concerned about ultimate accuracy or super-consistent velocities. Just need it to SAFELY function the rifle on the plinking range.  Attached File |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 8:36:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: If you read the first 3 lines of this thread on page 1 you would understand there is no need to bump this thread. Just hit the Subscribe button for this thread to be in you're Subscriptions. Been on Arfcom for years and never knew of that feature. Thanks. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 8:40:50 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TxLewis: Dryflash3, seriously, thanks for the effort you put in here. Ditto on that. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 8:54:47 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By W_E_G: What "feed issue" are you having? Is the nose of the bullet digging into the little "divider" in the barrel extension that serves as the feed-ramp? I was having problems with the fat(ish) nose of the Lehigh "Controlled Chaos" bullet hanging-up on the sharp edges of that part of the barrel extension. I then spent about an hour tediously knocking-down the sharp edge (particularly the one on the right side) with a stone dremel bit - just running it with my fingers, not chucked-up into the actual tool, and then smoothing with 400 grit. Before I took down the edge, the edge was so sharp it would shave a fingernail like a knife blade. Now its rounded and dull, and better-blended with the receiver. Those Lehigh bullets run like a champ now. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/105614/ramps_smooth_jpg-1530142.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By W_E_G: Originally Posted By VegasSaint: Hey all, I have a bunch of these 150gr RNFP from Berry's for my 30-30 but as they are cheap, I have been trying to make them work for supers. So far it's not really happening due to feed issues. Anyone had any success with these? https://www.diamondkbrass.com/images/P/rsz_30-30cal150grrnfp.jpg https://www.diamondkbrass.com/30-30-150gr-RN-100-ct.html Thanks! What "feed issue" are you having? Is the nose of the bullet digging into the little "divider" in the barrel extension that serves as the feed-ramp? I was having problems with the fat(ish) nose of the Lehigh "Controlled Chaos" bullet hanging-up on the sharp edges of that part of the barrel extension. I then spent about an hour tediously knocking-down the sharp edge (particularly the one on the right side) with a stone dremel bit - just running it with my fingers, not chucked-up into the actual tool, and then smoothing with 400 grit. Before I took down the edge, the edge was so sharp it would shave a fingernail like a knife blade. Now its rounded and dull, and better-blended with the receiver. Those Lehigh bullets run like a champ now. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/105614/ramps_smooth_jpg-1530142.JPG The 16" barrel I got for Midway was really edgy on the feed ramps. AR Stoner brand. Yeah, cheap, but there is nothing wrong with the rifling and crown. The burs sucked, but I love shooting that barrel. Anyway, I drilled a whole in the wood dowel and glued in a Dremel stone on the end. Allows you to smooth any machine burs up in the feed ramp from the rear end of the assembled upper. Cover the stone with some cloth laden with polishing compound to slick it up more. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 8/7/2020 9:06:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: networkguru]
[#47]
Great thread.
I am starting to finally after 7 years reload 300blk. Still need a good case trimmer (lyman trim express vs Giraud Triway) and I dont have any primers yet lol. I got some H110 and some Barnes 110g Tac-tx. Just taking my time. Really trying to absorb the hows and the whys? I have a Redding Big Boss 2. RCBS hand prime RCBS balance. RCBs powder trickler RCBS small base dies bought 7 years ago. I got a Lee FCD and will get a Lyman M die expander as well soon. I am converting my own brass as well. I really value the knowledge shared here. Thanks |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 11:29:22 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Flysc: Been on Arfcom for years and never knew of that feature. Thanks. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Flysc: Originally Posted By dryflash3: If you read the first 3 lines of this thread on page 1 you would understand there is no need to bump this thread. Just hit the Subscribe button for this thread to be in you're Subscriptions. Been on Arfcom for years and never knew of that feature. Thanks. So my solution is to edit the first post (thinking that posters will at least read the first post before posting) with a message that thread is toggled. Subscribe is the next best thing about being a Team Member after the green arrows. Thanks for the kind words. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 11:34:49 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By networkguru: Great thread. I am starting to finally after 7 years reload 300blk. Still need a good case trimmer (lyman trim express vs Giraud Triway) and I dont have any primers yet lol. I got some H110 and some Barnes 110g Tac-tx. Just taking my time. Really trying to absorb the hows and the whys? I have a Redding Big Boss 2. RCBS hand prime RCBS balance. RCBs powder trickler RCBS small base dies bought 7 years ago. I got a Lee FCD and will get a Lyman M die expander as well soon. I am converting my own brass as well. I really value the knowledge shared here. Thanks and learn. Started a thread with my techniques, I can post a link if you want. The pic of my case forming steps is in my first post on page 1 of this thread. We are glad to share what we have learned over the years. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 8/8/2020 3:13:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: networkguru]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: When I first got into 300 blk, I found I needed to anneal the cases for the best result, so it forced me to research annealing and learn. Started a thread with my techniques, I can post a link if you want. The pic of my case forming steps is in my first post on page 1 of this thread. We are glad to share what we have learned over the years. I have read some about annealing. If your thread was the one using the chemical (eta. Tempilac) to indicate the temp then I read it. I saved it somewhere. Yep. I do have it. Low budget annealing. I also saw a video of salt bath annealing. I already have propane and MAPP torches so I will probably go your route. Thanks. |
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