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Posted: 12/2/2017 9:51:39 AM EDT
[#1]
What I'm trying to determine is whether you have sufficient neck tension so the bullet won't move until the powder is building enough pressure to burn cleanly.
* What method are you using to crimp? I use a Lee FCD with very good results. It also increased accuracy. I'm not one of those guys that crimps everything, but if I'm not getting good accuracy, one of the first things I try. Neck tension, we know your bullet diameter is .308. Your sizing ball should be .002 to .003 smaller for good neck tension. * Please measure your sizing ball and post that number. * Also the history of your cases. # of times fired? * Once fired factory cases? * Form them yourself without annealing? * Mixed headstamps? * Consistent trim lengths? *Do a single quote of this post and please answer * questions. Change the color of the font in your answers. [color=#00ffff]Like this. (The underlined A icon. Blue is the best color to use.)[/color] |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/4/2017 12:22:00 AM EDT
[#2]
I got it figured out. Now I just need to sell all of this powder that I bought that didn't work.
What I settled on was Enforcer. Shot multiple 5 workups without a hitch. 10.5" 1:8 barrel. 175 Gr. SMK 2.1" OAL CCI400 8.0 Gr. 995 985 993 989 983 8.5 Gr. 1064 1042 1039 1048 1063 9.0 Gr. 1123 1113 1112 1107 1109 9.5 Gr. 1174 1187 1176 1165 1179 Next chance that the weather cooperates, I'll go back with some different OAL's and see how things go with 8.5 grains. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2017 1:47:01 PM EDT
[#3]
Anyone loading Nosler 125 ballistic tips?
I was thinking about trying lil gun. |
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Posted: 12/8/2017 2:11:40 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By steelworker:
Anyone loading Nosler 125 ballistic tips? I was thinking about trying lil gun. |
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Posted: 12/9/2017 6:20:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By steelworker:
Anyone loading Nosler 125 ballistic tips? I was thinking about trying lil gun. |
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Posted: 12/10/2017 12:21:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By steelworker:
Anyone loading Nosler 125 ballistic tips? I was thinking about trying lil gun. But with a 125 gr Speer TNT, I settled on 19.5 grs Lil'Gun. Cases I formed from LC 223, Wolf SRM primers, OAL 2.045. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2017 2:18:41 AM EDT
[#7]
I am right at 20 gr of 1680 in a 10.5" with 125 grain bullets.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/10/2017 11:42:30 AM EDT
[#8]
Nosler 125 BT's with H110 powder 2157 fps with 17.5 grains with oal at 2.060" using LC cases and RP 7 1/2 primers. Hodgdon's max was at 17.8 grains and I started to see some pressure signs at 17.8 grains. Very accurate in my 16" AR. H110 same as Win 296.
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Posted: 12/10/2017 5:38:15 PM EDT
[#9]
Speer TNT Varmint Bullets 125 Grain Jacketed Hollow Point
Hornady InterLock 125 Grain SST Both are flat based bullets so i prefer to load them conservatively and not push them to hard. 17.6 grain's of H110 for the TNT out of my 16 inch build 17.4 grain's of H110 for the SST out of my 8.5 inch build. CCI # 41 primers lake city brass. Both loads work well in both guns i just prefer the HP moving a little faster out of the 16 inch rifle. |
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Posted: 12/24/2017 5:10:40 PM EDT
[#10]
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Posted: 12/29/2017 5:12:41 PM EDT
[#11]
Picked up a CZ 527 Blackout. Dies are on the way; I've been reading about the options, what people have been using for loading subs, and I'm not seeing a very clear trend. This rifle will exclusively be used for subsonics, plinking but also some hunting (maybe close range coyotes, foxes, groundhogs, raccoons, etc..). We'll see how that goes, maybe I'd be willing to try using it for short range deer down the road too.
Anyway at the moment I'm looking for bullet and powder recommendations. Seems like a lot of guys prefer to shoot a mid-range size bullets out of their bolt guns, say 168-175s rather than the 220s. I'm looking for accuracy and quiet, if it's cheaper that's great too. Based on a couple of things I've read, to start, I'm zeroing in on 175gr SMKs with Unique. Any reason to look elsewhere? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks |
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Posted: 1/1/2018 9:26:00 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
Damn....I knew I wanted to order something else with my last midway order... More Temiplaq.... Hope to get back into this soon. I'm going to setup my loading equipment in a storage unit and hope for the best. 208 ELD question. I was loading these and using a OAL if 2.250" I picked up a box or Hornady "Black" 208 Amax, as something to get a idea how close I was to that load. I just got the can for it, so now with real velocity numbers, I can fine tune the load. With my load, adding the can didn't add anything to velocity 
So that load is in the low 900's (I was told expect aprox 10%) The Hornady load is advertised at 1020fps muzzle and I'm at 1017 with a 10" barrel w/can 1st thing I did was measure the OAL... 2.200 So.... .050 shorter The Amax and ELD IS the same other than the tip material, correct? Heres my plan and would love some feedback. Cut my load back .2gr and stuff them in .050 deeper. Load 5 Also load 5 @ my loading and stuff them .050 deeper , and check the numbers. Maybe even bump my load up .2gr AND .050" deeper. Had anyone noticed a difference in accuracy with OAL changes with ELD subs? My untuned load without a can was... 208 ELD (m) wolf primers 11.2gr of A1680 2.250" OAL Whos shooting the 208 ELD with a can, and is willing to comment/ share what they may have learned? What did I learn? Can made zero diff in numbers. IN MY SBR WITH MY LOAD!! As always dont do / load anthing you read online. Work up TULA primer 2.12 COAL 11gr Shooters World Black Out Powder (I use batting in my subs to hold the powder in place) 5 rounds: hi 995 Lo 951. Avg 976 
@mybronco2 |
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USA
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Posted: 1/3/2018 10:41:19 PM EDT
[#13]
If you need powder, buy cfe blackout. H110 didn't work for me at all suppressed and 9.5"barrel.
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Posted: 1/4/2018 12:14:07 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lifer109:
If you need powder, buy cfe blackout. H110 didn't work for me at all suppressed and 9.5"barrel. 
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Posted: 1/24/2018 12:30:38 AM EDT
[#15]
Guys I'm noticing that there are now .300 BO specific magazines.
What's different about these compared to standard .223 magazines? Do they somehow fix the need to use the .250" ogive, hump seating depth thing? Motor |
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Posted: 1/24/2018 1:37:08 AM EDT
[#16]
My guess is it's for the heavy bullets used in subsonic loads.
Probably took the front bump out that the neck rides on in a 223 mag that's in the way of the long bullets you can't seat with the .250 ogive method. |
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Posted: 1/25/2018 6:30:34 PM EDT
[#17]
The Magpul 300 Blackout PMags have the feed ribs in a different location tha in the 5.56mm magazines, and I’m pretty sure dryflash3 is right about why. I haven’t had a chance to play with the ones I got to see how the rib position affects feeding with various bullet weights, but I expect they’ll run just about anything with up to mag-length COAL.
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Posted: 1/26/2018 11:00:15 PM EDT
[#18]
Tag!!! 300 Blk upper arriving Monday. New caliber to start reloading for
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Posted: 1/26/2018 11:33:50 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tnriverluver:
Tag!!! 300 Blk upper arriving Monday. New caliber to start reloading for 
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ID, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2018 5:00:49 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I've shot the Nosler BT's, but can't find my notes for that bullet/load. But with a 125 gr Speer TNT, I settled on 19.5 grs Lil'Gun. Cases I formed from LC 223, Wolf SRM primers, OAL 2.045. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 2:10:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#21]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
No scrapes with that bullet. I started with the Lee expander, tried the M die and quit using the Lee. I suggest you size to .310 after powder coating. Lee doesn't make that size, I just opened up a .309 sizer. Drill motor, dowel, 400 grit sandpaper. Stop often and size a bullet to check your progress. Good luck Custom dies ETA: it says lead time six weeks. I recall mine taking about two maybe three weeks. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 11:22:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By archad:
What length of barrel,velocity and accuracy? Thanks Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By archad:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I've shot the Nosler BT's, but can't find my notes for that bullet/load. But with a 125 gr Speer TNT, I settled on 19.5 grs Lil'Gun. Cases I formed from LC 223, Wolf SRM primers, OAL 2.045. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 11:25:58 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon:
Lee does make a .310. Cutom order. Does not take that long to get one. Custom dies ETA: it says lead time six weeks. I recall mine taking about two maybe three weeks. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Unkydon:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
No scrapes with that bullet. I started with the Lee expander, tried the M die and quit using the Lee. I suggest you size to .310 after powder coating. Lee doesn't make that size, I just opened up a .309 sizer. Drill motor, dowel, 400 grit sandpaper. Stop often and size a bullet to check your progress. Good luck Custom dies ETA: it says lead time six weeks. I recall mine taking about two maybe three weeks. .309 to .310 isn't much. Measure often as you can put metal removed back on. Takes about a half hour, or you can wait 6 weeks. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 12:34:31 AM EDT
[#24]
If you are annealing cases before forming, how far up the neck would you anneal, just the neck or would you anneal the shoulder as well since I would be forming the shoulder...?
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Posted: 2/4/2018 2:49:15 AM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Or you can do it yourself with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a dowel turned by a drill. .309 to .310 isn't much. Measure often as you can put metal removed back on. Takes about a half hour, or you can wait 6 weeks. But it is available from Lee. |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 1:13:29 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Buck_Naked:
If you are annealing cases before forming, how far up the neck would you anneal, just the neck or would you anneal the shoulder as well since I would be forming the shoulder...? Done properly annealing is done by temperature. You use a drop of 750 degree Tempilaq on the inside of the neck. Let dry it will be light blue in color. As case turns and the torch flame is on the neck you watch for the dot of Tempilaq as case rotates. After about 3-4 seconds it will be clear, that's when you stop heating and drop case into a pan to cool, do not drop in water. For proper annealing case should air cool. Compare your just annealed case to a 5.56 round that is factory annealed. Should look the same. You get any silver color on the case, it's over annealed. Tempilaq is a must have and a bottle lasts a long time. 750 Tempilaq |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/5/2018 1:08:07 AM EDT
[#27]
I didn't anneal a single case before forming and now have over 10 firings on those cases without a single issue. I took unknown amount of times fired Winchester .223 cases and ran them through a FL 300 BLK sizing die with the expander removed. Then I used a trimmer to get them close to final trim length. Deburred, chamfered, and then FL sized again with expander and finally trimmed to size. Another deburr and chamfer and loaded.
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Posted: 2/5/2018 2:42:58 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
It's not a matter of how far up the neck to anneal. Done properly annealing is done by temperature. You use a drop of 750 degree Tempilaq on the inside of the neck. Let dry it will be light blue in color. As case turns and the torch flame is on the neck you watch for the dot of Tempilaq as case rotates. After about 3-4 seconds it will be clear, that's when you stop heating and drop case into a pan to cool, do not drop in water. For proper annealing case should air cool. Compare your just annealed case to a 5.56 round that is factory annealed. Should look the same. You get any silver color on the case, it's over annealed. Tempilaq is a must have and a bottle lasts a long time. 750 Tempilaq Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Buck_Naked:
If you are annealing cases before forming, how far up the neck would you anneal, just the neck or would you anneal the shoulder as well since I would be forming the shoulder...? Done properly annealing is done by temperature. You use a drop of 750 degree Tempilaq on the inside of the neck. Let dry it will be light blue in color. As case turns and the torch flame is on the neck you watch for the dot of Tempilaq as case rotates. After about 3-4 seconds it will be clear, that's when you stop heating and drop case into a pan to cool, do not drop in water. For proper annealing case should air cool. Compare your just annealed case to a 5.56 round that is factory annealed. Should look the same. You get any silver color on the case, it's over annealed. Tempilaq is a must have and a bottle lasts a long time. 750 Tempilaq |
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Posted: 2/11/2018 11:42:41 PM EDT
[#29]
Bump per request.
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Posted: 2/20/2018 6:59:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#30]
I am getting ready to reload 300 BO as I just used up the last of my 300 Whisper reloads that were loaded in the mid 90s. I had loaded 500rds way back in 96 as a deer load and use really haven't shot the contender much and sold my SSK upper in 2001 or so.
This time I am looking to load subsonic as I am getting a 300 Blackout upper to start again. I have a stockpile of three or more 5-gallon buckets of poor reputation 223 FC brass. I put it away planning to use with the 300 Blackout Subsonic as the pressures are much less than a 300 supersonic or 223/5.56 load. To confirm, do I have the steps right here (it's been over 20 years) Note. The brass is all polished and sorted in the buckets. 1. Deprime 2. Remove primer pocket crimps 3. Cut 223 brass to 300BO length Debur outside of case or chips will build up in your 300 blk sizing die and scratch your cases. Anneal case neck, lube case 4. Full length resize Remove lube 5. Turn down necks Not necessary, lot of bad advice out there. 6. Anneal case Should be done before forming shoulder. Trim to final length, I trim to 1.360 as it's an even number. 10. Finally reload My goal s to dig out my old gear but I know there are better ways now so I need to find a way to mass produce this brass. I figure each bucket has 4000 or so cases so it is worth the time up front to do this right. Then I might just do all the brass as I'll never load it with 223 or 5.56 as I don't trust the case heads unless I load them light but I have better brass for 5.56 anyways. I Wouldn't convert FC cases without first checking the web thickness. The old FC 223 cases were known for thin webs and primer pockets that loosen fast. FC is the only headstamp I have not converted to 300 Blk. LC are the cases you want. Thanks in Advance eta, sorry I hit the edit button instead of the Quote button I meant. dryflash3 |
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Posted: 2/23/2018 4:54:16 PM EDT
[#31]
Thanks dryflash!
I have the RCBS tool to turn down thick necks so it can’t hurt to measure and do them as needed. The only really new item for me is the mini chop saw and nifty jig to chop the 223 brass. Last time I did them I used a hacksaw then used 221 fireball brass exclusively. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2018 5:02:07 PM EDT
[#32]
What do you have for a brass trimmer, Quarterbore?
I take my .223 brass and run them in my 300 BLK die with the decapper removed. Then, using my Forster case trimmer with the .223 guide in it, I trim down to just over max case length. Back through the 300 BLK die with decapper and a final trim to size with the .308 guide in my Forster. Chamfer and deburr thrown in the mix as well. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2018 5:14:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Anti_Russian]
[#33]
Noob questions (might as well be - I've forgotten a ton). Righto - haven't reloaded for about 10 years.
I have a Lee single stage 'breech' press, and 5.56 Lee dies. https://leeprecision.com/breech-lock-challenger-press.html Are any of the Lee 5.56 dies also good for 300 AAC without resetting them, or should I just buy a whole new set (3-piece or 4-piece?) of 300 dies? This will be for reloading factory brass, not for cut-down brass. Edit: I see that the die sets now come with a powder dipper. Does anyone use the powder dipper that comes with the Lee die kit? Thank you in advance. |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2018 5:19:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Good evening.
The 300 BO cartridge will be a totally different die set. The 300 BO is based off the .223Rem case but the two are very different cartridges one being .224 caliber and the other being .308. |
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Posted: 2/23/2018 5:28:51 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Quarterbore:
Thanks dryflash! I have the RCBS tool to turn down thick necks so it can't hurt to measure and do them as needed. The only really new item for me is the mini chop saw and nifty jig to chop the 223 brass. Last time I did them I used a hacksaw then used 221 fireball brass exclusively. I haven't found any headstamp that I had to neck ream. But different lots of cases can be different. Maybe I've just been lucky. Many folks use that chop saw/jig method with good results. I use a Band Saw I already had and made my own cut off jig. |
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Posted: 2/23/2018 5:35:42 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Anti_Russian:
Noob questions (might as well be - I've forgotten a ton). Righto - haven't reloaded for about 10 years. I have a Lee single stage 'breech' press, and 5.56 Lee dies. https://leeprecision.com/breech-lock-challenger-press.html Are any of the Lee 5.56 dies also good for 300 AAC without resetting them, or should I just buy a whole new set (3-piece or 4-piece?) of 300 dies? This will be for reloading factory brass, not for cut-down brass. The outside diameter of the 2 cases are the same, but they have different length shoulders and 300 blk is a 30 caliber, not a 22 caliber like 223. So you will need a set of 300 blk dies. I prefer to seat bullets and crimp in separate dies and use a Lee FCD for crimping. Added it to my Hornady 300 blk dies. Edit: I see that the die sets now come with a powder dipper. Does anyone use the powder dipper that comes with the Lee die kit? No, I use a powder measure to dispense charges. Thank you in advance. |
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Posted: 2/26/2018 2:59:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Adirondack47]
[#37]
Ive been really impressed with what Ive seen from the Barnes 110 Tac-TX round on deer sized game and tried to order some from MidwayUSA last weekend. After finding out that they wont ship loaded ammo to their "brothers in arms/customers" in NY, I decided that I am going to dig out the reloading gear and try and slowly work my way back into it this summer. I wull be running the pills out of a 16" barrel Troy PAR.
Any good load data floating around out there for the 110 Grain Barnes Tac-TX bullet and W296 Powder? Any special precautions that need to be taken with once fired 300BLK brass? Should 300BLK be crimped? |
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Posted: 2/26/2018 4:07:51 PM EDT
[#38]
What distance do you guys like to zero at for subsonics? I'm using a CZ527 bolt action and will only be shooting subsonics. For hunting and critters never farther than 150 yards most likely, and while I may occasionally use it for fun at ranges beyond that, it's not a priority and it would be rare.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2018 4:46:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Anti_Russian]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
For cheap bullets, don't over look the plated ones from Extreme. I imagine that I would want to reload 110 grain bullets. But, really, for two-gun practice or matches (I've never done a match yet) - if I decide to use that 300 platform instead of 5.56 - I guess cheap and even subsonic would be fine around here. I watch Ian and Karl shoot two-gun matches out west, but they have huge tracts of open land to make distance shots a thing, where-as I can't imagine a 2-gun distance around here being over 70 yards or so. |
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Posted: 2/26/2018 5:25:52 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Anti_Russian: Thank you. These ones? https://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm I imagine that I would want to reload 110 grain bullets. But, really, for two-gun practice or matches (I've never done a match yet) - if I decide to use that 300 platform instead of 5.56 - I guess cheap and even subsonic would be fine around here. I watch Ian and Karl shoot two-gun matches out west, but they have huge tracts of open land to make distance shots a thing, where-as I can't imagine a 2-gun distance around here being over 70 yards or so. |
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Posted: 2/26/2018 6:10:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Quarterbore]
[#41]
I was asked what I have above:
I use a RCBS Rockchucker to load, I have one of the Harbor Freight mini cut off saws and just ordered one of the better jigs to cut down brass. I also just bought an annealing machine from Annealeez. My case trimmer is a Forester unit and I have a Dillon Super Swager. I also have a RCBS neck turning tool but I ordered one of the Sinclair drill shell holders to spread up that process. Lastly my dies at this point are Redding 300/221 fireball dies from the mid 90s. The rest of my stuff is basic RCBS gear. I still hope to process my shitty FC brass and use them for subsonic loads. I’ll save better brass for supersonic loads. |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2018 8:33:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: paduce]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Adirondack47:
Ive been really impressed with what Ive seen from the Barnes 110 Tac-TX round on deer sized game and tried to order some from MidwayUSA last weekend. After finding out that they wont ship loaded ammo to their "brothers in arms/customers" in NY, I decided that I am going to dig out the reloading gear and try and slowly work my way back into it this summer. I wull be running the pills out of a 16" barrel Troy PAR. Any good load data floating around out there for the 110 Grain Barnes Tac-TX bullet and W296 Powder? Any special precautions that need to be taken with once fired 300BLK brass? Should 300BLK be crimped? 110gr Hornady Z-Max bullets over 19.8gr Alliant 300MP powder, lit by a CCI450 primer has shredded one hole at 100yds out of many rifles. 110gr Hornady Z-Max bullets are amazingly accurate and really cheap. Don't let the funky zombie theme marketing fool you. ETA: No special precautions that I'm aware of. No need to crimp if your dies expander ball is giving you good neck tension. I often use a Lee factory crimp die to give a really light crimp just because I really like the feeling of uniformity that it gives me. Just my own OCD thing and totally optional. |
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Posted: 2/27/2018 3:59:45 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By paduce: I have tons of data and trigger-time with 300BO but none with Barnes 110gr Tac-TX. 110gr Hornady Z-Max bullets over 19.8gr Alliant 300MP powder, lit by a CCI450 primer has shredded one hole at 100yds out of many rifles. 110gr Hornady Z-Max bullets are amazingly accurate and really cheap. Don't let the funky zombie theme marketing fool you. ETA: No special precautions that I'm aware of. No need to crimp if your dies expander ball is giving you good neck tension. I often use a Lee factory crimp die to give a really light crimp just because I really like the feeling of uniformity that it gives me. Just my own OCD thing and totally optional.  . Thanks for the data.
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Posted: 2/27/2018 10:06:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: CodDawkins]
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Adirondack47:
Ive been really impressed with what Ive seen from the Barnes 110 Tac-TX round on deer sized game and tried to order some from MidwayUSA last weekend. After finding out that they wont ship loaded ammo to their "brothers in arms/customers" in NY, I decided that I am going to dig out the reloading gear and try and slowly work my way back into it this summer. I wull be running the pills out of a 16" barrel Troy PAR. Any good load data floating around out there for the 110 Grain Barnes Tac-TX bullet and W296 Powder? Any special precautions that need to be taken with once fired 300BLK brass? Should 300BLK be crimped? Barnes brass - 110 TACTX - H110 20gr - Wolf 223 primer - 2.25oal - light crimp - 2215fps - 10.5barrel |
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Posted: 2/27/2018 11:18:37 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By timccart:
Here is my H110 data ymmv Barnes brass - 110 TACTX - H110 20gr - Wolf 223 primer - 2.25oal - light crimp - 2215fps - 10.5barrel Be sure to work up to this load. |
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Posted: 2/27/2018 10:55:50 PM EDT
[#46]
I’m saving my Barnes brass for fancy loads. My converted brass is fine for plinking and practice.
Since I had zero commercial brass to start with, my original loads were all with converted brass. Work ups were (mostly) with LC cases. I recommend checking out any load with different brass to see if it is brass-dependent. SOME loads might be, particularly subs. |
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Posted: 2/27/2018 11:04:54 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Adirondack47:
Ive been really impressed with what Ive seen from the Barnes 110 Tac-TX round on deer sized game and tried to order some from MidwayUSA last weekend. After finding out that they wont ship loaded ammo to their "brothers in arms/customers" in NY, I decided that I am going to dig out the reloading gear and try and slowly work my way back into it this summer. I wull be running the pills out of a 16" barrel Troy PAR. Any good load data floating around out there for the 110 Grain Barnes Tac-TX bullet and W296 Powder? Any special precautions that need to be taken with once fired 300BLK brass? Should 300BLK be crimped? |
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Posted: 2/28/2018 7:31:32 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sheltot:
Try here. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sheltot:
Originally Posted By Adirondack47:
Ive been really impressed with what Ive seen from the Barnes 110 Tac-TX round on deer sized game and tried to order some from MidwayUSA last weekend. After finding out that they wont ship loaded ammo to their "brothers in arms/customers" in NY, I decided that I am going to dig out the reloading gear and try and slowly work my way back into it this summer. I wull be running the pills out of a 16" barrel Troy PAR. Any good load data floating around out there for the 110 Grain Barnes Tac-TX bullet and W296 Powder? Any special precautions that need to be taken with once fired 300BLK brass? Should 300BLK be crimped? |
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Posted: 2/28/2018 9:18:15 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Adirondack47: Are H110 and W296 generally considered to be the same powder? |
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Posted: 3/4/2018 4:03:07 PM EDT
[#50]
Got back from the range without any Chrono data for the Nosler 220 Subsonics. I got all sensor #2 errors on my magnetospeed 8.5gr H110, CCI 400 Primers and handmade brass out of PMC 223 donors.
Last trip I couldn't get any of the mags I brought with me to cycle from the left side with them loaded to 2.1" Good news, Magpul 300blk magazine worked flawlessly Bad news, the 220's tumbled and hit about a two foot to the left at 100yds. Ignore the rest of the bad groups the big ol' flat holes up top were the 220's 
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