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Posted: 10/11/2019 10:02:54 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Even faster. 
Although slowing the print travel speed down, and upping the temperature to the maximum each type of filament can handle should make them tougher/stronger. |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 10:30:48 AM EDT
[#2]
@Notso
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Posted: 10/11/2019 11:04:23 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: From my limited understanding of 3D printing, that would help with layer adhesion but not actually make the material more wear resistant. My layer adhesion is really good, I don't think I can make these stronger without using a different material. |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 11:09:22 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tend to agree with this. By the time it wears out, you'll have to strip down your AR15 for cleaning anyway. The only thing stopping me from printing a bunch of them is that hand engraving them (for ATF compliance) is a pain in the ass. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm not sure if taking the time to enforce the material is really worth it. Just print a bunch of them and once worn down, toss it and put another one in. |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 11:47:42 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is an interesting subject (partially because I've only bought, not built, ARs and so don't understand the internals well). I'm assuming (I also don't know anything about 3d printing) you can't print a SN, or whatever the ATF requires, on it when its created? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm not sure if taking the time to enforce the material is really worth it. Just print a bunch of them and once worn down, toss it and put another one in. |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 12:33:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Yeah I could have done the engraving in the print, but typically 3D printed engraving does not turn out well unless the text is very large. I have to engrave our entire company name (which happens to be really long), as well as city, state, country, caliber, model number, and serial number. The only way to fit that is to use the smallest allowable letters which is 1/16"
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Posted: 10/11/2019 12:41:48 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah I could have done the engraving in the print, but typically 3D printed engraving does not turn out well unless the text is very large. I have to engrave our entire company name (which happens to be really long), as well as city, state, country, caliber, model number, and serial number. The only way to fit that is to use the smallest allowable letters which is 1/16" 
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Posted: 10/11/2019 12:45:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sounds like you have to put that on all the non-contact sides of the link as it is! |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 7:17:56 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Honestly the wear looks pretty similar between the two designs. I think the fact that the first one needs to flex isn't going to contribute to premature failure. I think that one is going to wear through the impact area (where the bolt carrier hits it) before the hinge fails. But that's just a guess. I'm thinking about making the second one out of aluminum to see if it works. Thanks! |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 11:05:16 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If the hinge does fail....or any other failure...any chance this breaks into a a couple pieces and then screws up the gun? Doesn't seem like a big deal to tape one of these somewhere on the stock or keep a spare inside a grip. But it would seriously suck to have this jam up the gun when it wears out/breaks. Thanks! The worst scenario would be that it prevents the bolt carrier from coming all the way forward and prevent you from separating the upper from the lower. But I'm betting this is pretty unlikely, and whatever failure you encounter would be pretty easy to clear. |
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Posted: 10/11/2019 11:13:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The worst scenario would be that it prevents the bolt carrier from coming all the way forward and prevent you from separating the upper from the lower. But I'm betting this is pretty unlikely, and whatever failure you encounter would be pretty easy to clear. Once again, just from a technical and "cool factor" perspective, I appreciate the time you've put into making and testing these for us! |
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Posted: 10/12/2019 7:30:29 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well sure, anythings possible. I imagine a piece of plastic rattling around in the fire control group could jam something up eventually. The worst scenario would be that it prevents the bolt carrier from coming all the way forward and prevent you from separating the upper from the lower. But I'm betting this is pretty unlikely, and whatever failure you encounter would be pretty easy to clear. Thanks! |
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Posted: 10/12/2019 12:53:12 PM EDT
[#13]
What bolt carrier is used?
I know that a RLL requires an SP-1 carrier. |
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Posted: 10/12/2019 1:02:42 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What bolt carrier is used? I know that a RLL requires an SP-1 carrier. |
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Posted: 10/12/2019 6:54:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I tend to agree with this. By the time it wears out, you'll have to strip down your AR15 for cleaning anyway. The only thing stopping me from printing a bunch of them is that hand engraving them (for ATF compliance) is a pain in the ass. |
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Posted: 10/12/2019 7:10:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure I understand that - are you saying you can't 3D print it with a serial number you programmed into the image to be printed, you actually have to engrave them post printing? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure I understand that - are you saying you can't 3D print it with a serial number you programmed into the image to be printed, you actually have to engrave them post printing? Quoted:
Yeah I could have done the engraving in the print, but typically 3D printed engraving does not turn out well unless the text is very large. I have to engrave our entire company name (which happens to be really long), as well as city, state, country, caliber, model number, and serial number. The only way to fit that is to use the smallest allowable letters which is 1/16" |
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Posted: 10/18/2019 1:52:58 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Could you bend a cut piece of an aluminum can over that edge and pin it to the plastic in some way to make it more resilient. |
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Posted: 10/19/2019 8:53:53 AM EDT
[#18]
A thin piece of aluminum can would hold up worse than the printed plastic. The carrier would cut right through it.
Disclaimer: I’m an 07/02 as well. Tried both versions. They don’t always fit depending on the depth of the shelf in the rear of the lower. None of my LMT lowers work, for instance. There’s not enough space under the rear takedown lug to close the receivers. The bottle opener design does work in the PSA KS47 7.62x39 system. It’s pretty overgassed so it runs at 1000+ rpm, pretty fun. I used nylon x with the carbon fiber in it and it held up well in AR15s but the KS beat the heck out of it in short order. |
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Posted: 10/19/2019 8:19:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used nylon x with the carbon fiber in it and it held up well in AR15s but the KS beat the heck out of it in short order. |
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Posted: 10/19/2019 8:53:32 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did you compare they NylonX against standard pla or others? |
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Posted: 10/21/2019 7:56:16 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A thin piece of aluminum can would hold up worse than the printed plastic. The carrier would cut right through it. Disclaimer: I’m an 07/02 as well. Tried both versions. They don’t always fit depending on the depth of the shelf in the rear of the lower. None of my LMT lowers work, for instance. There’s not enough space under the rear takedown lug to close the receivers. The bottle opener design does work in the PSA KS47 7.62x39 system. It’s pretty overgassed so it runs at 1000+ rpm, pretty fun. I used nylon x with the carbon fiber in it and it held up well in AR15s but the KS beat the heck out of it in short order. |
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Posted: 10/23/2019 6:44:42 AM EDT
[#22]
how do you expect pallet banding to keep the right shape?
I would think you'd need to use something a bit stiffer and possibly even heat treat it afterwards to harden it. You'd be better off cutting a strip of aluminum and bending it to the right shape. File it to time it. Remember that these things need timed. you can get lucky with them working on your first try, but just like a DIAS or LL they need to be the right dimension to trip the disconnector at just the right time. just bending flimsy pieces of metal and throwing them in your lower isnt the best idea when home depot or your average scrap bin has the right stuff. If its too flimsy after you bend it, heat it up and drop it in some used motor oil |
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Posted: 12/28/2019 9:38:59 PM EDT
[#23]
What 3D printers are y'all using to print these?
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Posted: 12/28/2019 10:24:37 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What 3D printers are y'all using to print these? |
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Posted: 12/28/2019 10:58:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Cheapest would be a Prusa clone.
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Posted: 2/12/2020 4:18:24 PM EDT
[#26]
Did you ever end up making the type2 one in metal?
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Posted: 2/12/2020 4:41:58 PM EDT
[#27]
Forgot about this thread.
Someone sent the OP or the other SOT an 'improved' design, IIRC. |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 9:11:38 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I tend to agree with this. By the time it wears out, you'll have to strip down your AR15 for cleaning anyway. The only thing stopping me from printing a bunch of them is that hand engraving them (for ATF compliance) is a pain in the ass. |
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Posted: 2/16/2020 6:27:58 AM EDT
[#29]
How tight do the tolerances have to be? You could use one as a core for sand casting in aluminum if it will work after some shrinkage. Or print it at 107% or whatever before casting.
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Posted: 4/15/2020 8:35:03 PM EDT
[#30]
Signed up to comment. Would undersizing the top part of the print a little bit and applying a thin-ish coat of JB weld provide suitable wear protection? Might be able to add some holes or stripes with wider bottoms to help with retention; a bad ASCII art representation might look something like /_\
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Posted: 5/4/2020 1:06:04 AM EDT
[#31]
Did you ever consider having it metal printed? Yes, it's more expensive. But just to try out something different.
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Posted: 5/4/2020 9:20:07 PM EDT
[#32]
There is a Glock Auto Sear on the DetDesp LBRY website. Wanna give that a try?
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Posted: 5/13/2020 3:18:43 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You know, it's kind of hard to tell since I can't manipulate it with the upper receiver attached. I could be wrong about it not flexing. But it does not have the obvious hinge point that the first one has. It seems like it just kinda floats around in there, and it gets out of the way by pushing down the disconnector and dropping down. It's possible that it is somewhat flexing during this process, I'm not sure. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Very interesting, I hadn't realized exactly how it worked when I looked at it. Does it not flex off the upper retaining pin? You know, it's kind of hard to tell since I can't manipulate it with the upper receiver attached. I could be wrong about it not flexing. But it does not have the obvious hinge point that the first one has. It seems like it just kinda floats around in there, and it gets out of the way by pushing down the disconnector and dropping down. It's possible that it is somewhat flexing during this process, I'm not sure. |
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Posted: 5/13/2020 3:30:48 PM EDT
[#34]
Couldn't you coat this thing in a really hard epoxy to reduce wear?
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Posted: 5/17/2020 5:11:33 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Type7SOT: https://i.imgur.com/YbDBUvv.jpg Unfortunately I'm pretty slammed so I don't have time to test today. But I will soon. Try increasing the shell layers which will reduce infilled. You might not be able to due to how small that object is but you should be able to see the changes in your slicer on a per layer basis. |
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Posted: 5/19/2020 3:38:32 PM EDT
[#36]
Since this is 3D printed, you don't necessarily have to replicate the design choices used for bent metal. There are some changes that would seem to be appropriate.
Quoted: A lightning link works on the same principal but is not the same design as a swift link. You are correct there is no 3rd position as designed. However, some people have used highly modified fcg's to make lightning links select fire. It should be possible in the same way that the lightning link select fire is done. |
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Posted: 5/25/2020 11:45:07 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have a small branding iron made up, serial numbers you can use a small number punch set, you could even heat the punches I actually tried this for an SBR Glock. Results weren’t all that great. |
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Posted: 6/7/2020 8:47:59 AM EDT
[#38]
@Type7SOT
Any updates? |
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Posted: 6/7/2020 1:35:35 PM EDT
[#39]
There was a new design sent his way way, but he has indicated, that he is 'SWAMPED with business' as was the other S.O.T. who posted.
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Posted: 7/5/2020 11:46:29 AM EDT
[#40]
this plastic device is designed incorrectly.
the surface that contacts the carrier needs to rounded to fit the half moon of the bolt carrier contact point. square plastic hitting half moon rounded carrier is wrong. with a real lightning link a SP1 carrier or modified carrier is needed for best function. square hitting square. since this is 3d printed it would be very easy to curve that area for less wear on the plastic. you can clearly see where the half moon of the carrier is eating up the square contact point. round that area and reduce the width and you will git 3X or more life. @Type7SOT Two versions shown below. both showing wear caused by contact point not being rounded. if it were hardened metal it would not matter but since it is plastic it matters. another fix would be to remove the half moon on the carrier and make that area flat/square. this is usually done with a LL setup and SA carrier.  
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Posted: 7/5/2020 2:13:43 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: this plastic device is designed incorrectly. the surface that contacts the carrier needs to rounded to fit the half moon of the bolt carrier contact point. square plastic hitting half moon rounded carrier is wrong. with a real lightning link a SP1 carrier or modified carrier is needed for best function. square hitting square. since this is 3d printed it would be very easy to curve that area for less wear on the plastic. you can clearly see where the half moon of the carrier is eating up the square contact point. round that area and reduce the width and you will git 3X or more life. @Type7SOT Two versions shown below. both showing wear caused by contact point not being rounded. if it were hardened metal it would not matter but since it is plastic it matters. another fix would be to remove the half moon on the carrier and make that area flat/square. this is usually done with a LL setup and SA carrier. https://i.imgur.com/r0nEiTN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uGDEsCd.jpg I considered this. Matching the shape of the swift to the carrier in the forward position wouldn't prevent the points adjacent the buffer retainer slot from digging into the surface. This is because it is in the up position while the bolt is to the rear and before it can be pushed down by the bolt, those points have to hit it somewhere. |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 3:25:50 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: this plastic device is designed incorrectly. Quote HistoryQuoted: this plastic device is designed incorrectly. Yes. the surface that contacts the carrier needs to rounded to fit the half moon of the bolt carrier contact point. No. It should be flat where it fits the bolt carrier flat contact surface. |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 3:50:49 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes. No. It should be flat where it fits the bolt carrier flat contact surface. |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 4:09:28 PM EDT
[#44]
Quoted: Yes. No. It should be flat where it fits the bolt carrier flat contact surface. Quoted: That's what I'm thinking. It doesn't work like a sear. It is pushed down by the bolt carrier, not forward. The bolt carrier has to roll over it. |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 4:50:05 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It doesn't work like a sear. It is pushed down by the bolt carrier, not forward. The bolt carrier has to roll over it. I have no idea how many cycles it would last. If I redesigned it, I would design it closer to a DIAC with a pivot point permanently made part of it.  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/5/2020 5:17:24 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The larger model (that hooks under the rear lug) appears to rely on pivoting the plastic. The surface could be redesigned so it catches the carrier forcing the pivot rather than relying on going under the carrier. I have no idea how many cycles it would last. If I redesigned it, I would design it closer to a DIAC with a pivot point permanently made part of it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/57761/2cqio7b_jpg-1491485.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It doesn't work like a sear. It is pushed down by the bolt carrier, not forward. The bolt carrier has to roll over it. I have no idea how many cycles it would last. If I redesigned it, I would design it closer to a DIAC with a pivot point permanently made part of it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/57761/2cqio7b_jpg-1491485.JPG Both of them function the same, one relies on the material flexing (pivoting) and the other the entire part moves. I'll look at it in CAD, but I don't see how you could move the pivot point to a place that it would be able to translate the movement properly. |
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Posted: 7/6/2020 12:42:23 PM EDT
[#47]
This information is not for illegal use.
 Attached FileIt appears that for it to function off of the forward movement of the bolt carrier, the pivot point would have to be near where the auto sear pin is on a full auto lower. I think the only way this could be 3D printed would be if there were two parts printed and then a steel pin used as the pivot point. I doubt one of the Type 7 Class 2 SOTs will do any kind of endurance test on these. Maybe if all the ammo was donated? |
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Posted: 8/5/2020 3:16:23 PM EDT
[#48]
Just curious. If the point of this thing is to depress the disconnector when the bolt slides back, how do you prevent the Hammer from following the bolt home; or is that how it works?
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Posted: 8/5/2020 3:54:26 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just curious. If the point of this thing is to depress the disconnector when the bolt slides back, how do you prevent the Hammer from following the bolt home; or is that how it works? It's just based on the geometry, the bolt won't push on the DIAS until it's far enough closed (assuming everything is to spec) so you don't get hammer follow. |
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Posted: 8/5/2020 4:10:18 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's just based on the geometry, the bolt won't push on the DIAS until it's far enough closed (assuming everything is to spec) so you don't get hammer follow. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Just curious. If the point of this thing is to depress the disconnector when the bolt slides back, how do you prevent the Hammer from following the bolt home; or is that how it works? It's just based on the geometry, the bolt won't push on the DIAS until it's far enough closed (assuming everything is to spec) so you don't get hammer follow. @twentyeggs It pushes the disconnectors down when the bolt is moving forward. It has to be timed right so the hammer doesn't fall prematurely. |
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