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Posted: 7/14/2017 8:13:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Correct, I don't recall ever hearing about a rewelded SP1 since virtually all of them went out for commercial sales. No reason for one to ever be cut up by the military and sold for scrap.
You have listed the major downsides. 1. No fence. This is a cosmetic issue some folks really cant get around. It also means no front takedown pin detent. (as there is no place for the dent and spring to go) 2. You will need to use an offset pin of some sort or have the front ears "sleeved" with bushings. However, even if the ears have bushing put in there will still be no front push pin detent. So that means you will still have to use some sort of captive type of front pin. Most folks ditch the screw together type front pins once they have bushings installed and go with some sort of KNS style front takedown pin where there is a push button so you don't have to use a screwdriver to change uppers. Which brings up the cosmetic issue again for some folks having some type of non-mil spec style front capture pin. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/668597/kns-push-button-pivot-pin-315-diameter-ar-15-matte Overall having the large hole front takedown pins it makes swapping uppers slightly more cumbersome. 3. The only other downside is that the front ears on an SP1 are much thinner. I have never heard of a SP1 failing at the front ears...but there is a lot less material up front. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:02:19 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Correct, I don't recall ever hearing about a rewelded SP1 since virtually all of them went out for commercial sales. No reason for one to ever be cut up by the military and sold for scrap. You have listed the major downsides. 1. No fence. This is a cosmetic issue some folks really cant get around. It also means no front takedown pin detent. (as there is no place for the dent and spring to go) 2. You will need to use an offset pin of some sort or have the front ears "sleeved" with bushings. However, even if the ears have bushing put in there will still be no front push pin detent. So that means you will still have to use some sort of captive type of front pin. Most folks ditch the screw together type front pins once they have bushings installed and go with some sort of KNS style front takedown pin where there is a push button so you don't have to use a screwdriver to change uppers. Which brings up the cosmetic issue again for some folks having some type of non-mil spec style front capture pin. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/668597/kns-push-button-pivot-pin-315-diameter-ar-15-matte Overall having the large hole front takedown pins it makes swapping uppers slightly more cumbersome. 3. The only other downside is that the front ears on an SP1 are much thinner. I have never heard of a SP1 failing at the front ears...but there is a lot less material up front. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:04:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Sometimes the sear holes weren't drilled in the right spot.
When I was at AGW, we did a bushing conversion on a SP1 MG and used the small KNS pin. It was way better. That's what I'd do. Still not as good as a milspec pin, but everything depends on pricing. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:06:31 PM EDT
[#4]
I own an NFA SP1. It's been reliable and no issues. And they are cheaper for the concerns listed which in my mind don't matter if you plan to shoot it.
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:13:43 PM EDT
[#5]
As long as the price is right I don't see an issue. If you can over look the missing fence, large pins and the fact that it says AR15 instead of M16 you can get a significant discount compared to a M16A1 or A2.
When you are on a budget you have to make some sacrifices, for an entry level M16 you either pass on looks and get a lower in spec or you get a non-colt lower that looks good but risk it not being in spec. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:20:05 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As long as the price is right I don't see an issue. If you can over look the missing fence, large pins and the fact that it says AR15 instead of M16 you can get a significant discount compared to a M16A1 or A2. When you are on a budget you have to make some sacrifices, for an entry level M16 you either pass on looks and get a lower in spec or you get a non-colt lower that looks good but risk it not being in spec. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:44:01 PM EDT
[#7]
I think spartikis means the tolerance specs. How well another upper fits, magwell, etc.
With the colt SP1 the receiver itself should be in spec, but the conversion is of course dependent on the origin. With a non colt lower, the lower itself is often not perfectly in spec. They weren't made in the 80's the same way they're made today. Then you also have the same concern with the conversion as you would with the SP1. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 10:47:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Another question.... I ran across someone talking about using a SP1 bolt carrier, it wasn't in the context of machine guns but just seeing "SP1 bolt carrier" made me think "WTF is a SP1 bolt carrier".
There isn't any special BCG for the SP1 is there? Other than those 2 things mentioned before it is essentially a universal / interchangeable parts ar15 just like any other semi ar15, right? |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 10:50:12 PM EDT
[#9]
Right
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Posted: 7/14/2017 10:56:17 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Another question.... I ran across someone talking about using a SP1 bolt carrier, it wasn't in the context of machine guns but just seeing "SP1 bolt carrier" made me think "WTF is a SP1 bolt carrier". There isn't any special BCG for the SP1 is there? Other than those 2 things mentioned before it is essentially a universal / interchangeable parts ar15 just like any other semi ar15, right? I have a auto connector/ RLL, and like it a lot. But a converted SP1 can not use the factory SP1 carrer, it needs a m16 carrer. 
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Posted: 7/15/2017 4:24:46 AM EDT
[#11]
One other point to mention, is that the Colt "large hole/.312" pivot pin" upper receivers do not have an auto sear relief machined from the factory. If you simply toss one of these "SP" uppers on a lower with an Military M16 auto sear, the auto sear will bind against the upper receiver when the sear is rotated forward. This can actually break the auto sear or even the lower receiver at its auto sear hole.
Luckily, it isn't a major deal to machine the auto sear relief cut into an SP1 upper receiver. Taken all together though, these little annoyances and potential problems are what reduce the price of the SP1 to a point much lower than that of original Colt full autos. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 9:31:35 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One other point to mention, is that the Colt "large hole/.312" pivot pin" upper receivers do not have an auto sear relief machined from the factory. If you simply toss one of these "SP" uppers on a lower with an Military M16 auto sear, the auto sear will bind against the upper receiver when the sear is rotated forward. This can actually break the auto sear or even the lower receiver at its auto sear hole. Luckily, it isn't a major deal to machine the auto sear relief cut into an SP1 upper receiver. Taken all together though, these little annoyances and potential problems are what reduce the price of the SP1 to a point much lower than that of original Colt full autos. I'd ask who converted the SP1 lower as that would have some bearing on value at least in my mind. Several reputable smiths did them and I've shot those from LaFrance and HTA, both are outstanding performers. The must have accessory for me is a KNS anti-rotation sear pin as I could see the standard pin rotate during firing. Since the sear hole has not been anodized after being drilled I was concerned about possible wear, the KNS pin solves that issue and was a true drop in part. Sure you need two screwdrivers to swap uppers, big deal, the only thing that does is add two minutes to the process. You will eventually see wear around the pin hole from careless handling of the screwdrivers but its just cosmetic. The other area that will show use is inside the lower where the material was machined for the sear itself. The finish will disappear due to cleaning solvents over time, I guess if one had the lower re-anodized it would cure that ill. I find comfort in the fact that it's a forged Colt lower and they were arguably the best of breed at that point in time in terms of machine work and QC. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 9:37:57 AM EDT
[#13]
What's it going to cost you?
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Posted: 7/15/2017 10:24:19 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I came to mention this as large pin Colt uppers are available and work fine once sear relief is machined. Years ago Daniel Defense manufactured large pin flat top uppers which are nice additions to the collection. I'd ask who converted the SP1 lower as that would have some bearing on value at least in my mind. Several reputable smiths did them and I've shot those from LaFrance and HTA, both are outstanding performers. The must have accessory for me is a KNS anti-rotation sear pin as I could see the standard pin rotate during firing. Since the sear hole has not been anodized after being drilled I was concerned about possible wear, the KNS pin solves that issue and was a true drop in part. Sure you need two screwdrivers to swap uppers, big deal, the only thing that does is add two minutes to the process. You will eventually see wear around the pin hole from careless handling of the screwdrivers but its just cosmetic. The other area that will show use is inside the lower where the material was machined for the sear itself. The finish will disappear due to cleaning solvents over time, I guess if one had the lower re-anodized it would cure that ill. I find comfort in the fact that it's a forged Colt lower and they were arguably the best of breed at that point in time in terms of machine work and QC. I guess the no fencing and the large pin are a turnoff, but considering it can be converted I am still kind of confused why someone would rather a non-colt upper when the front pin issue can be fixed. I've seen multiple people on other threads say SP1 would be their last choice, but wouldn't a reweld be the last choice?? Maybe they mean last Colt choice (which would be obvious...)? |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 10:29:35 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's it going to cost you? |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 10:50:12 AM EDT
[#16]
I don't know if you've thought about this; but do you have any "lesser" mg's? If your in the 18k ballpark and you sell something in the 6-8k area, you can get into an a1, which would take away an reservation you might have.
This is exactly where I was, and what I did a few weeks ago. No regrets whatsoever. I really think had I went with a conversion(including an SP1) during the 12 month wait I might have had some regret. The reason being, it's so much money already(18k), what's a few more on that for piece of mind, collector value, etc. At the end of the day it's still a full auto ar15 though 
No matter what it'll be awesome. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 11:00:37 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't know if you've thought about this; but do you have any "lesser" mg's? If your in the 18k ballpark and you sell something in the 6-8k area, you can get into an a1, which would take away an reservation you might have. This is exactly where I was, and what I did a few weeks ago. No regrets whatsoever. I really think had I went with a conversion(including an SP1) during the 12 month wait I might have had some regret. The reason being, it's so much money already(18k), what's a few more on that for piece of mind, collector value, etc. At the end of the day it's still a full auto ar15 though
No matter what it'll be awesome.  .
My thinking is kind of the opposite though, since the front pin issue is easily fixed from m60joe that really just leaves you with no fencing being the only downside. As long as the seller has a guarantee, you hit the range and if it works it works, along with all the other things I've been told to check, right?  lol
I don't have a ton of interest in collectors value, since a1/converts are both going up, its not like the converts are being left behind while a1's are appreciating |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 12:38:29 PM EDT
[#18]
Gotcha, I sold a m10/9 in order to boost myself from the conversions. But then again I bought the m10 with that as a possible plan, just didn't think I would do it so quickly.
What is also similar to your situation, is that a friend set me up locally with a fantastic, unbelievable deal, and without that I don't know where I'd be currently on my search for an m16. As far as the collector value, all I meant was the fact that it is a colt m16, which left the factory as an actual m16, as opposed to a semi auto which was converted later. Prices will all continue to rise, most likely in a proportional ratio or close anyway. So the monetary issue really isn't one. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 1:07:24 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gotcha, I sold a m10/9 in order to boost myself from the conversions. But then again I bought the m10 with that as a possible plan, just didn't think I would do it so quickly. What is also similar to your situation, is that a friend set me up locally with a fantastic, unbelievable deal, and without that I don't know where I'd be currently on my search for an m16. As far as the collector value, all I meant was the fact that it is a colt m16, which left the factory as an actual m16, as opposed to a semi auto which was converted later. Prices will all continue to rise, most likely in a proportional ratio or close anyway. So the monetary issue really isn't one. Why are you guys so she with prices? It helps us all out when values can be tracked over time. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 1:54:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Not shy....I mentioned it in another thread a few weeks ago.
NIB, single owner, all original colt m16a1-22k |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 2:23:35 PM EDT
[#21]
I have an SP1 conversion that runs great. Currently has an LWRC psd upper on it and has eaten 1,000's of rounds. Mine looks to have been converted by Colt per the NFA paperwork. Just a word of advise, it you don't plan to have your ears adjusted, buy a few offset pins...not just one. They will eventually shear at times, ask me how I know
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Posted: 7/15/2017 2:49:53 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And that deal was?... Why are you guys so she with prices? It helps us all out when values can be tracked over time. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 2:54:05 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have an SP1 conversion that runs great. Currently has an LWRC psd upper on it and has eaten 1,000's of rounds. Mine looks to have been converted by Colt per the NFA paperwork. Just a word of advise, it you don't plan to have your ears adjusted, buy a few offset pins...not just one. They will eventually shear at times, ask me how I know |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 4:00:04 PM EDT
[#24]
$200 minimum to mod it, and it doesn't fix the issue 100%. It'll always be inferior to the milspec pivot pin.
I'd take a completely in-spec non-Colt over the SP1. I'd also consider a welded receiver if it was in-spec and X-ray showed no voids, etc. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 4:04:19 PM EDT
[#25]
Nvm
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Posted: 7/15/2017 4:56:27 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
$200 minimum to mod it, and it doesn't fix the issue 100%. It'll always be inferior to the milspec pivot pin. I'd take a completely in-spec non-Colt over the SP1. I'd also consider a welded receiver if it was in-spec and X-ray showed no voids, etc. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 5:36:04 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I came to mention this as large pin Colt uppers are available and work fine once sear relief is machined. Years ago Daniel Defense manufactured large pin flat top uppers which are nice additions to the collection. I'd ask who converted the SP1 lower as that would have some bearing on value at least in my mind. Several reputable smiths did them and I've shot those from LaFrance and HTA, both are outstanding performers. The must have accessory for me is a KNS anti-rotation sear pin as I could see the standard pin rotate during firing. Since the sear hole has not been anodized after being drilled I was concerned about possible wear, the KNS pin solves that issue and was a true drop in part. Sure you need two screwdrivers to swap uppers, big deal, the only thing that does is add two minutes to the process. You will eventually see wear around the pin hole from careless handling of the screwdrivers but its just cosmetic. The other area that will show use is inside the lower where the material was machined for the sear itself. The finish will disappear due to cleaning solvents over time, I guess if one had the lower re-anodized it would cure that ill. I find comfort in the fact that it's a forged Colt lower and they were arguably the best of breed at that point in time in terms of machine work and QC. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 6:09:58 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Conversion was done by Northwest Arms, any info on them? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I came to mention this as large pin Colt uppers are available and work fine once sear relief is machined. Years ago Daniel Defense manufactured large pin flat top uppers which are nice additions to the collection. I'd ask who converted the SP1 lower as that would have some bearing on value at least in my mind. Several reputable smiths did them and I've shot those from LaFrance and HTA, both are outstanding performers. The must have accessory for me is a KNS anti-rotation sear pin as I could see the standard pin rotate during firing. Since the sear hole has not been anodized after being drilled I was concerned about possible wear, the KNS pin solves that issue and was a true drop in part. Sure you need two screwdrivers to swap uppers, big deal, the only thing that does is add two minutes to the process. You will eventually see wear around the pin hole from careless handling of the screwdrivers but its just cosmetic. The other area that will show use is inside the lower where the material was machined for the sear itself. The finish will disappear due to cleaning solvents over time, I guess if one had the lower re-anodized it would cure that ill. I find comfort in the fact that it's a forged Colt lower and they were arguably the best of breed at that point in time in terms of machine work and QC. Let's be honest here most problems originate in the upper. So take your most reliable upper (and an adapter pin if it's a small hole upper) to check fit and function. Even better would be a large pin Colt upper with sear relief. Another option for us SP1 guys would be to bore the front pin hole out on several uppers to .312" with the correct offset, hell uppers are cheap these days. Lastly a word of caution on the conversion method itself - I would make sure it's been converted by drilling the sear pin hole and not via a DIAS thats married to the lower. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 6:45:35 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've never heard of them - sorry. As long as you test fit a few uppers and fire it I think you're good. Let's be honest here most problems originate in the upper. So take your most reliable upper (and an adapter pin if it's a small hole upper) to check fit and function. Even better would be a large pin Colt upper with sear relief. Another option for us SP1 guys would be to bore the front pin hole out on several uppers to .312" with the correct offset, hell uppers are cheap these days. Lastly a word of caution on the conversion method itself - I would make sure it's been converted by drilling the sear pin hole and not via a DIAS thats married to the lower. Regardless of if I get one of these or another non-colt convert, when checking fit do you just mean play between upper and lower? And as far as testing some of my non-colt upper on it, the BCG in the current large pin upper on the SP1 and my non-colt upper don't need any "special" work right? Everything (BCG and uppers/parts) work just like any other ar15 other than when using large pin Colt uppers? Lastly, as far as the adapter goes, is this all I need for my small pin upper?  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 7:45:03 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just the 3rd hole at the top for the sear pin hole right? Regardless of if I get one of these or another non-colt convert, when checking fit do you just mean play between upper and lower? And as far as testing some of my non-colt upper on it, the BCG in the current large pin upper on the SP1 and my non-colt upper don't need any "special" work right? Everything (BCG and uppers/parts) work just like any other ar15 other than when using large pin Colt uppers? Lastly, as far as the adapter goes, is this all I need for my small pin upper? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/414057/Colt-SP1-adaptor-pin-254791.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've never heard of them - sorry. As long as you test fit a few uppers and fire it I think you're good. Let's be honest here most problems originate in the upper. So take your most reliable upper (and an adapter pin if it's a small hole upper) to check fit and function. Even better would be a large pin Colt upper with sear relief. Another option for us SP1 guys would be to bore the front pin hole out on several uppers to .312" with the correct offset, hell uppers are cheap these days. Lastly a word of caution on the conversion method itself - I would make sure it's been converted by drilling the sear pin hole and not via a DIAS thats married to the lower. Regardless of if I get one of these or another non-colt convert, when checking fit do you just mean play between upper and lower? And as far as testing some of my non-colt upper on it, the BCG in the current large pin upper on the SP1 and my non-colt upper don't need any "special" work right? Everything (BCG and uppers/parts) work just like any other ar15 other than when using large pin Colt uppers? Lastly, as far as the adapter goes, is this all I need for my small pin upper? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/414057/Colt-SP1-adaptor-pin-254791.JPG |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 7:17:00 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just the 3rd hole at the top for the sear pin hole right? Regardless of if I get one of these or another non-colt convert, when checking fit do you just mean play between upper and lower? And as far as testing some of my non-colt upper on it, the BCG in the current large pin upper on the SP1 and my non-colt upper don't need any "special" work right? Everything (BCG and uppers/parts) work just like any other ar15 other than when using large pin Colt uppers? Lastly, as far as the adapter goes, is this all I need for my small pin upper? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/414057/Colt-SP1-adaptor-pin-254791.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've never heard of them - sorry. As long as you test fit a few uppers and fire it I think you're good. Let's be honest here most problems originate in the upper. So take your most reliable upper (and an adapter pin if it's a small hole upper) to check fit and function. Even better would be a large pin Colt upper with sear relief. Another option for us SP1 guys would be to bore the front pin hole out on several uppers to .312" with the correct offset, hell uppers are cheap these days. Lastly a word of caution on the conversion method itself - I would make sure it's been converted by drilling the sear pin hole and not via a DIAS thats married to the lower. Regardless of if I get one of these or another non-colt convert, when checking fit do you just mean play between upper and lower? And as far as testing some of my non-colt upper on it, the BCG in the current large pin upper on the SP1 and my non-colt upper don't need any "special" work right? Everything (BCG and uppers/parts) work just like any other ar15 other than when using large pin Colt uppers? Lastly, as far as the adapter goes, is this all I need for my small pin upper? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/414057/Colt-SP1-adaptor-pin-254791.JPG Nothing special about BCG's other than they need to be FA M16 profile carriers, bolts are the same. I have seen brand new FA M16 carriers that were out of spec and would not trip the sear but thats rare. I disagree that these SP1's are inferior to the non-Colt conversions based on the lack of fencing and the large front pin. They're range toys and I've never had a mag fall from the magwell because I bumped the non-fenced release or busted the front lug off an upper due to their thin walls. I did buy a used DD large pin upper and the pivot hole became slightly elongated after god knows how many rds, DD replaced it no questions asked! The lower itself has never given me grief, all FCG parts, grips and buffer tubes fit with ease and I attribute that to Colts QC efforts. Can't say the same for some of the non-Colt lowers I've handled. Don't let the front pin scare you and forget that goofy KNS pin with it's detents, they're the most aggravating thing you could put on the gun. You need 2 tools to remove it - one to push the detent release pin and another (spent case) to push the pin out from the opposite side. Just use the SP1 front pins from Colt which have a captive detent, they don't walk out while shooting as some would have you believe. edit / correction: The pins are .312" but the holes are .315" and the one piece pin with captive detent is from DPMS which looks to have been discontinued. The original Colt large pivot pins are a two piece screw type. Using both dimensions, .312" & .315", may help when searching for them. Sorry for any confusion. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 5:09:05 PM EDT
[#32]
I've got an SP-1 RR. Highly recommend M60joe small pin conversion.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 9:58:40 PM EDT
[#33]
Are there any issues with 10.5 uppers (suppressed or unsuppressed) when going full-auto or is it a "if it runs semi-auto" I likely can run the same upper/buffer auto?
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Posted: 7/16/2017 10:54:35 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are there any issues with 10.5 uppers (suppressed or unsuppressed) when going full-auto or is it a "if it runs semi-auto" I likely can run the same upper/buffer auto? http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_23/199901_10-5-Upper------and--thing-won-t-run-.html The issue you're most likely to encounter is called "bolt bounce". |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 10:43:17 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are there any issues with 10.5 uppers (suppressed or unsuppressed) when going full-auto or is it a "if it runs semi-auto" I likely can run the same upper/buffer auto? Also just because something runs in semi doesn't mean it will run in auto. 1 round a second is different that 15+ rounds a second, bolt bounce being a common issue. |
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Posted: 7/18/2017 12:31:07 AM EDT
[#36]
Bought the SP1 today
 .. I am going to have the small pin bushings put in while I wait
My question is... should I have M60joe look it over even though its not a reweld and its in great shape? His words.. "It will cost $90 to look over the receiver and list the results to you" Thanks for the help |
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Posted: 7/18/2017 9:25:52 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bought the SP1 today .. I am going to have the small pin bushings put in while I wait
My question is... should I have M60joe look it over even though its not a reweld and its in great shape? His words.. "It will cost $90 to look over the receiver and list the results to you" Thanks for the help M60joe will check every measurement, including the placement of the autosear pin hole (which was done by the third party, not Colt) and which, if it is even slightly off, can cause timing issues. In addition, he deals with repairs every day, so he will be able to spot other issues -- for instance, if it was ever run in 9mm without a ramped bolt (common back in the '90s), you could have slightly enlarged hammer or trigger-pin holes. So that $90 will give you the peace of mind that your receiver is 100%, and thus when you try new configurations, you can rule out receiver spec issues. FYI, when you take delivery, you should also switch to a brand new hammer, selector, trigger and disconnector, plus new hammer, trigger, disconnector and recoil springs. I always use Colt factory parts, because they have the highest QC on FA parts. Springs are the equivalent of oil in your truck -- they reduce wear by cushioning impact while the gun cycles. So I routinely replace the hammer & trigger springs every 10k rounds if I'm only shooting 5.56 uppers with 14.5" through 20" barrels. With shorter barrels or other calibers (7.62x39, 9mm, etc.) you may need new springs in as little as 5k rounds. HTH. |
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Posted: 7/18/2017 9:52:44 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Remember, while Colt built the host, someone else did the conversion. M60joe will check every measurement, including the placement of the autosear pin hole (which was done by the third party, not Colt) and which, if it is even slightly off, can cause timing issues. In addition, he deals with repairs every day, so he will be able to spot other issues -- for instance, if it was ever run in 9mm without a ramped bolt (common back in the '90s), you could have slightly enlarged hammer or trigger-pin holes. So that $90 will give you the peace of mind that your receiver is 100%, and thus when you try new configurations, you can rule out receiver spec issues. FYI, when you take delivery, you should also switch to a brand new hammer, selector, trigger and disconnector, plus new hammer, trigger, disconnector and recoil springs. I always use Colt factory parts, because they have the highest QC on FA parts. Springs are the equivalent of oil in your truck -- they reduce wear by cushioning impact while the gun cycles. So I routinely replace the hammer & trigger springs every 10k rounds if I'm only shooting 5.56 uppers with 14.5" through 20" barrels. With shorter barrels or other calibers (7.62x39, 9mm, etc.) you may need new springs in as little as 5k rounds. HTH.
Appreciate all the help in this post |
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Posted: 7/18/2017 1:43:41 PM EDT
[#39]
Congrats man!
Your a month behind me, so I'll let you know when I get mine
Here's to hoping it's less than 9 months!! Check out specializedarmament.com for colt parts |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 3:23:50 AM EDT
[#40]
I would for sure have M60 Joe check the receiver and, as Tony K suggests, replace the FCG with a new Colt package (or a Geissele F/A set if you like those) and replace all springs. Specialized Armament can get you all the proper factory Colt parts you need. Congrats on your new weapon!
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Posted: 7/19/2017 11:00:02 AM EDT
[#41]
I would agree, especially if you are sending it to M60Joe for bushing installation you might as well have him check over the rest of the host. The big cost/risk is putting the receiver in the mail to get to him. Once it arrives there, its a no-brainer to spend the $90 bucks on the check.
You will probably recoup your $90 investment if you ever decide to sell and the buyer knows that the gun has already been looked over. The only downside is he wont provide an official receipt for confirmation of work performed. If you contact him and conduct the full process via email you will have the email chain as proof of the work done, so I would suggest doing the transaction via email with the SN in the subject line and print it out to keep it in your archives as it could be worth extra to a future buyer to know who did the bushing install and blueprint check. Plus it will be proof of step up basis for capital gains tax purposes in the event of a future sale. As other posters have noted, I would also swap out all the guts and springs with new Colt parts. The best source for Colt parts I have found is Ken Elmore at Specialized Armament Warehouse. He is expensive and slow to ship but you will get verified Colt parts. On my latest receiver build/upgrade I tried to shortcut having to go through SAW and bought parts from a seller on gunbroker " (who purported to be selling Colt lower parts and even showed actual Colt parts in the listing) and ended up getting crap non-Colt parts for my efforts along with a getting screwed over on a sizeable restocking fee to send them back. Good luck and congrats on the M16. |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 11:30:05 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would agree, especially if you are sending it to M60Joe for bushing installation you might as well have him check over the rest of the host. The big cost/risk is putting the receiver in the mail to get to him. Once it arrives there, its a no-brainer to spend the $90 bucks on the check. You will probably recoup your $90 investment if you ever decide to sell and the buyer knows that the gun has already been looked over. The only downside is he wont provide an official receipt for confirmation of work performed. If you contact him and conduct the full process via email you will have the email chain as proof of the work done, so I would suggest doing the transaction via email with the SN in the subject line and print it out to keep it in your archives as it could be worth extra to a future buyer to know who did the bushing install and blueprint check. Plus it will be proof of step up basis for capital gains tax purposes in the event of a future sale. As other posters have noted, I would also swap out all the guts and springs with new Colt parts. The best source for Colt parts I have found is Ken Elmore at Specialized Armament Warehouse. He is expensive and slow to ship but you will get verified Colt parts. On my latest receiver build/upgrade I tried to shortcut having to go through SAW and bought parts from a seller on gunbroker " (who purported to be selling Colt lower parts and even showed actual Colt parts in the listing) and ended up getting crap non-Colt parts for my efforts along with a getting screwed over on a sizeable restocking fee to send them back. Good luck and congrats on the M16. but I've yet to see someone lose one (even searching Google) other than "apparently" once, but they didn't even send it registered mail so IMO that's already the start to a sketchy post that I saw it in
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Posted: 7/19/2017 12:36:22 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the answers.. Ya, dont remind me about the mail but I've yet to see someone lose one (even searching Google) other than "apparently" once, but they didn't even send it registered mail so IMO that's already the start to a sketchy post that I saw it inI personally use registered mail with full insurance and have never had one get lost yet (knock on wood). One other tip I can offer is to be very clear and upfront about how you expect the item to be returned to you. I have found that just because you send something of high value to a FFL/SOT via registered mail with full insurance...it doesnt mean they will send it back to you the way it came to them (or necessarily even ask how you want it sent back). A couple year back I had to chase down the mail truck on a Friday afternoon which had my HK Sear coming back from a burst pack install and which was shipped in a flat rate box with no insurance. I was able to track the mail guy down in his little motorized USPS ricksha a couple neighborhoods over with my sear package mixed in with a bunch of misc. amazon packages. I have even had folks screw up shipping it back after I told them to use USPS registered. Needless to say, I am now "overly communicative" on how I expect my kit to be shipped back. |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 5:58:09 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Look at the tacked thread in this sub forum: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_23/199901_10-5-Upper------and--thing-won-t-run-.html The issue you're most likely to encounter is called "bolt bounce". So can I just buy any quality 10.5 and 14.5 upper and as long as I am ejecting around 3:00 and it doesn't feel like its being beat to hell I am good? I feel like I am asking an extremely novice question but I have never had a single worry about "wearing out" my $100 lowers so it never really came up to ask. I figure maybe a gemtech adjustable suppressor bolt so I can just switch uppers (and take a suppressor on/off) without running a block on an a2 and I've seen some reputable people vouch for the bcg toning things down. Other than some pain in the a$$ 9mm builds (which I dont plan on using) I have never had an issue with things running smooth |
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Posted: 7/20/2017 11:21:20 PM EDT
[#45]
Anyone? Bueller, Bueller, Bueller
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Posted: 7/21/2017 7:02:59 PM EDT
[#46]
I've run an Enidine hydraulic buffer for a long time and never had any bolt bounce issues. I'm just not able to offer any advice other than be careful running suppressed piston uppers and dumping Beta mags!
Pretty sure that range trip was responsible for a broken hammer pin, chewed up buffer tube and a leaking Enidine buffer.
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Posted: 7/21/2017 7:25:40 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
While that is a good read it talks about having an issue. If I pick up a 10.5 upper and its ejecting at 3:00 without any bolt bounce and is running fine is there anything else I need to look into? To be honest I don't think twice about wear shooting my other Ar's, but I feel like I am going to be overly cautious now. When I add a suppressor to my current setups with a 10.5 the extra weight and a brake keeps it from feeling overgassed and running hard enough though it may be, and I really dont think twice cause I shoot it well, even on the move. So can I just buy any quality 10.5 and 14.5 upper and as long as I am ejecting around 3:00 and it doesn't feel like its being beat to hell I am good? I feel like I am asking an extremely novice question but I have never had a single worry about "wearing out" my $100 lowers so it never really came up to ask. I figure maybe a gemtech adjustable suppressor bolt so I can just switch uppers (and take a suppressor on/off) without running a block on an a2 and I've seen some reputable people vouch for the bcg toning things down. Other than some pain in the a$ 9mm builds (which I dont plan on using) I have never had an issue with things running smooth |
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Posted: 7/21/2017 7:38:52 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IMO adjustable gas blocks are better than an adjustable BCG, less recoil and less gas to the face Do you find adjusting the gas necessary when running an 10.5" unsuppressed PSA, BCM etc upper (as far as wear goes) or is this more of a thousands of rounds suppressed issue? |
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