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Posted: 7/6/2017 5:36:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Yes to offset bushing for mating a regular upper to a big-pin sporter lower. Yes to the bolt catch.
For specific spring and buffer recommendations, best wait for some of the members who've done lots of shrike shooting. @tony_k |
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Posted: 7/6/2017 5:42:04 PM EDT
[#2]
I've heard an MG34 spring works well. Are you planning on swapping to a collapsible stock configuration or sticking with the rifle stock and buffer?
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Posted: 7/6/2017 9:58:54 PM EDT
[#3]
You just need an ares shim, ares spring, and a h3 buffer . those offset front adapter pins suck....they break especially in FA.
If its a shooter , not a safe queen send it to m60 joe and have the front hole Sleeved and pinned. As far as setup you just need to change your bolt catch, and use the ares shim to insure your BCG isn't slamming into where the buffer tube screws in aka (receiver extension) Its all very easy if done correctly your receiver will be fine. All else there is too it is stretch/loosen your links and use the right gass setting. Enjoy they are fun, im looking forward to my incoming MM21e. |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 7:50:24 AM EDT
[#4]
If you're using an A2 stock, you need to get the spacer that ARES (or whatever they're calling themselves these days) offers. It looks like an elongated spool that thread comes on, is made from aluminum, and is designed to shorten the interior of your buffer tube to match that of the collapsible stock-type tubes. The Shrike was designed around a carbine-type stock, so there is only one (factory) spring and it's made to work in a carbine-length buffer tube. If you use it in an A2 stock without the spacer, your Shrike won't run.
You need a carbine-length buffer of some sort. Generally heavier is better, so the H3 suggested above would be a good choice. Once you get all your components in hand, I suggest you insert the spacer in the buffer tube, then drop in the buffer you are going to use (without spring) and insert the back end of the bolt into the buffer tube to check how far in it goes. There are minor differences in the dimensions of buffer tubes, so you want to check to be sure there is at least 1/8" clearance between your lower receiver and the back of the roller assembly on the bolt when the bolt is all the way to the rear. You do NOT want that roller assembly smacking into your lower receiver while cycling! While you have things assembled without the spring, also check to be sure the bolt catch will come up in front of the bolt to hold it back. Too much clearance between the roller assy and the receiver is no good either, as your bolt won't go far enough back to pick up rounds from the belt. There is a very narrow range for the bolt to come to the rear the proper distance- too far and it smacks into your receiver, too short and the bolt catch won't engage and the gun won't pick up rounds. That's why ARES includes the flat spacer that looks sort of like a quarter- to make sure you don't start battering your lower receiver. (Quarters also work, by the way.) |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 12:22:47 PM EDT
[#5]
Ahh thanks. All very good information.
The specifics of the "spool" are good to know, or at least how to check your clearances are all gtg before going bang. Im running the A2 stock right now, but can't decide if i want to put a CAR stock on it or not. i figured i could just make my own spacer on the lathe, but i didn't have any measurements or know what it was really trying to achieve. I can probably just spin one out now and save myself the 34 bucks ;) Make sure the bolt catches and it strips rounds but doesn't whack the receiver. Got it. i had read about the mg34 spring, but i don't really know where to find one. outside my familiarity on that one. Is there any reason to run a shrike standard bolt catch over a modified USGI one? {yes, I'm being cheap} 60 bucks seems a bit steep for the extended catch. Ive been waffling on sending this thing to m60joe and getting the front pin converted. It is a major PITA. |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 12:29:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Robert RTG has replacement MG34 springs.
http://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/NEW-PRODUCTION-MG34-MAIN-RECOIL-SPRING-16p2484.htm |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 1:12:30 PM EDT
[#7]
is the fightlite spring not even worth trying? should i skip it and go directly to the mg-34?
When trimming the 34 spring down, how do you know when you get to correct length? Clips coils till it will cycle and go no further? |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 2:23:11 PM EDT
[#8]
The AREA spacer I have measures 2.71" in length. Diameter will be the same as your buffer.
Try the ARES spring first. Dicking around with MG34 springs is for experiments with very heavy buffers in the A2 stock. The bolt catch I use is one that I Dremeled the thumb piece off of and had a buddy who welds turn it around and reweld it in place so it sticks out perpendicular to the side of the receiver. I'm a cheap SOB, too! |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 6:46:08 PM EDT
[#9]
Right! I've got so much crap in the garage I've got to justify using it somehow, or else it may never pay for itself like i insisted to the wife it would :D
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Posted: 7/12/2017 9:30:47 AM EDT
[#10]
OP
I basically did the same thing, modify parts vs buy them. You can mod a normal bolt catch, put it in a vise, heat it and bend the paddle down/forward, You will have to remove(sand) a little from the top and back to get it to function 100%, takes about 30 minutes. springs, just get a extra power wolff spring. I don't like cutting springs down form other guns unless there is no other option. I would start with a H3 buffer and go up from there. You will need to run "normal" ammo until is breaks in. I have a modded 9mm buffer that slows it down. AFA the spacer, you can fill a buffer tube with quarters or washers until you figure out the correct depth, then machine the part, or leave the quarters 
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Posted: 7/12/2017 11:30:13 PM EDT
[#11]
Alright i made a little progress.
Got the bolt catch done, got a MCR Main spring and the spacers.. When you go to charge the weapon you rack the bolt it won't strip the round the first time. Basically you have to pull the handle back twice to get it to hammer the round out of the link. This might just be break in, or normal, or some other issue. lol i don't know yet. The gas block seems a little wiggly on the barrel. I figure it should be about a press fit like most everything I've messed with. This seems not so right at all. Firing a round it doesn't even begin to attempt to eject. Im looking down the barrel and i swear for the life of me i cannot see the gas hole drilled in it. Thinking this barrel/gas block might need some attention...... Advise needed! :) How does you guys gas block fit the barrel? Can you see the gas port if you sight down the barrel with a light? If not, what size should i drill this gas port? |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 7:24:06 AM EDT
[#12]
The gas block should NOT be wiggly. There barrels are not cheap, so I would talk to the manufacturer about getting it fixed before I started drilling the gas port out.
Do you have the adjustable gas block? If so, make sure it's on the "wide-open" setting. Once it starts running, reduce the gas setting to the minimum that gives reliable operation. What length barrel are you running? Break-in should be done with magazines, not belts. Lube generously during break-in. Don't use steel case ammo during break-in. One addition to the system that I think is worthwhile is the cartridge guide made by Maui Arms. It's a plastic block that fits up in the front of the top cover and it insures that the point of the bullet does not rise up during the feed cycle and hit the receiver above the barrel ramp. I think Fightlite has a similar addition now, but Mark Genovese was selling his plastic ones for $85 and I think it's cheap insurance. If the round kicks up a little, the tip of the bullet can dig into the (relatively) soft receiver just above the barrel and dig out a little pocket. If the round catches there, the whole gun comes to an abrupt halt. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 10:48:53 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When you go to charge the weapon you rack the bolt it won't strip the round the first time. Basically you have to pull the handle back twice to get it to hammer the round out of the link. This might just be break in, or normal, or some other issue. lol i don't know yet. make sure the belt is all the way in, i.e a round is in the feed chute. It sound like its not all the way in. The belt can fall out a little if you don't keep pressure on it and cause your problems (unlike the SAW). Use a saw belt starter if you just want to lay it in. The gas block seems a little wiggly on the barrel. I figure it should be about a press fit like most everything I've messed with. This seems not so right at all. It should be pinned with NO movement Firing a round it doesn't even begin to attempt to eject. Im looking down the barrel and i swear for the life of me i cannot see the gas hole drilled in it. GAS BLOCK Advise needed! :) How does you guys gas block fit the barrel? Can you see the gas port if you sight down the barrel with a light? not on a 16" barrel, but you can on a 10" barrel If not, what size should i drill this gas port? |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 11:26:59 AM EDT
[#14]
More progress.
The gas block was in fact loose. I checked the taper pins and i was able to push one out easily with the tip of a bullet. I drove the pins back in until the gas block snugged up. It now fits with no wiggle, but the taper pin holes seem a hair oversize for those pins. They protrude from the bottom about 1/16-1/8. I think I'm going to need to get 1.25" long taper pins, drive them tight and trim to fit, to get things back as they should be. The gas block has a 3 position regulator thing, with a 4th position for off. The upper isn't new, but seems to be shot little to none. Its Stamped Ares Shrike. The barrel is 1:9 twist. I want to call fightlite and get their input on this, but word on the street is they don't much give a damn which makes me a bit nervous. I love getting told I'm stupid by manufactures :( {snowflake alert! I'm tender! lol} When i fire it, it seems like the gun is hanging up as it tries to index the belt sideways to present the fresh round for stripping. The front loop of the spent link was pitched upwards a hair, seemingly jammed up against the L shaped shelf of the reciever/top cover just ahead of the link. I wouldn't doubt belt misalignment. Can someone please advise me on the correct way to get the belt loaded? I do fight it trying to drop it in with the top cover open, it just wants to fall out. I guess i need to start with baby steps and pop a mag in this thing and see what kind of results i get. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 11:57:53 AM EDT
[#15]
No go using a p-mag as well.
It ejected, but it didn't feed the next round. It pinched the case between the bolt and feed ramps, leaving a massive dent in the unfired case. I would assume this means its short stroking. Gas is on position 3. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 12:57:12 PM EDT
[#16]
Made first contact with Fightlite. Submitted the form, will see what they have to say. Hopefully something other than "Insert Credit Card Here"......
Cause I'm running lean and the wife is running mean! 
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Posted: 7/13/2017 2:22:39 PM EDT
[#17]
When you set up the recoil spring and buffer, did you confirm that the bolt will go far enough to the rear to enable use of the bolt catch?
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Posted: 7/13/2017 2:41:16 PM EDT
[#18]
Yes, it will sit on the bolt catch.
However when the bolt is on the catch, it is not behind a linked round. So you couldn't just drop the bolt to chamber a round, you have to stroke the charging handle. Not sure if this is by design or not. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 2:51:05 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, it will sit on the bolt catch. However when the bolt is on the catch, it is not behind a linked round. It sounds like your buffer/spring setup is fubar since its tipping the rounds up. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 3:34:47 PM EDT
[#20]
I just dragged my Shrike out to confirm- when the bolt is properly held by the bolt catch the front of the bolt is roughly 1/2" behind the rounds sitting in the feed tray.
If your bolt is not that far back, something is not right. The bolt catch should be holding the face of the bolt, not the bolt carrier. Looks like you built in a short-stroke condition when you assembled things. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 8:57:13 PM EDT
[#21]
Alright took a closer look the rubber bumper was hanging out the buffer a bit.
Replaced buffer, the action spring is new as well. {Fightlite OEM one} Bolt Catch catches on the bolt face itself. Still takes at least 2 slingshots to strip a round from a link. I popped the gas block off the barrel. I.D. of the Gas Block is .754" OD of the Barrel Gas Journal is .748". At least i know where all my gas is going. Fightlite as expected is unresponsive/Damn near useless. They give zero fucks about customers or post sale support. Needless to say. Fuck Them. Looks like i will be either knurling the barrel to bring the OD up hopefully enough {.006 is a long ways to go}. Or possibly Tig Braze a band of SiBr around the journal and machine it back to size. Im just wary about putting that kind if heat into a barrel. Im no gunsmith, thats for sure. But the chance of failure alarm is going wild on all the ideas I've come up with thus far. Welding or brazing inside the gas block seems like an idea, but hard to pull off maybe? There doesn't seem to be enough meat to counter bore and sleeve the gas block down to size. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 9:30:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Try a Sprinco Orange spring from NoKick to push the bolt home every time. After it breaks in you might swap it back.
http://www.nokick.com/Sprinco_308_Carbine_Extra_Power_Buffer_Spring_p/sprinco-25762.htm I use one on my 5.56 BumpSAW and it has a lot of strength. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 2:21:02 AM EDT
[#23]
What i have been discovering lately is that oprod springs dont last very long, new ones produce a slower rate of fire for 600 to 1000 round depend on how ruff you are and they are ruined at 2-4k rounds.
I just dumped 1000 tracer in under 5 min utilizing 5 barrel change. The last two changes i dumped a 16oz water bottle down each so i wouldn't have to wait..i never wanted to do it but i have to say its worth it over buying more 800 barrels/F.sights/handles. With 3-4 barrels you can really blast away. Edit I was drunk when I wrote this and left out my main point. A new oprod spring can be so stiff as to impede cycling..you either have to shoot it in semi till it will cycle in full auto or just rack away untill she runs.after 2 200rd belt dumps it should be tip top shape...or perhaps a suppressed barrel would make it work till broken in. I don't own a can,and my beltfed wouldn't be my first choice to put one on. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 7:24:34 AM EDT
[#24]
Before you go crazy with alterations to the gas block or barrel, have you tried firing it since you fixed the short-stroke situation? Have you done the break-in with magazines? While the loose gas block is not good, you did report that the gun ejected brass during your last firing attempt so with the taper pins driven in good and tight you should be able to get functioning with magazines now that the bolt can travel to the rear properly. The sloppy fit of the gas block may solve itself by self-sealing with powder fouling after use. My barrels leak gas from around the gas block, but they work fine.
I hope you fixed the rubber bumper on the buffer properly, because if it came out once, it will do it again unless you fixed it well. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 8:59:18 AM EDT
[#25]
yes i test fired after fixing the short stroke issue/correct buffer to no avail.
The gas block isn't "sort of" loose. Its totally and completely fucked. I can't believe someone would let 4 grande out the door like this. You can sight down the barrel and look through the gap. The barrel is .002" undersize and the gas block is .004" oversize. These are strictly amateur numbers when it comes to holding tolerance across a production run. I wonder if they hire blind machinists? I am absolutely beside myself with Fightlite's overall disinterest in customer support. I have half the mind to toss this piece of shit in the trash can. Had the gas block been designed properly, this wouldn't be an issue. The taper pins and the gas port are on the same side of the gas block. So when you beat the taper pins tight, it gives you the maximum gap between barrel and block. Had Geoff just followed suit with every other AR on the planet this wouldn't be so bad. The pins or screws to attach the block should be on the OPPOSITE side of the gas hole, so as you tighten them it effects a seal between the two parts. Just like a stock AR gas block... Interestingly enough, the gas block for these guns is just a "standard" gas piston block laid on its side with a dovetail and carry handle provisions. i MIGHT be able to modify something out the junk box to get me back in the game. Since Fightlite won't even sell me the parts to fix their fuck up. {Did i mention I'm disgusted with fightlite?} As far as this fixing itself, i highly doubt that. It fits so sloppy that each round fired walks the taper pins out the hole. It doesn't take but maybe 5-10 rounds before the gas block is swinging around the barrel. Unless i can get the journal sizes back inline, theres no hope for this barrel combo. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 10:02:22 AM EDT
[#26]
Ouch. I hadn't realized that the situation was quite that bad. Sorry you have gotten no help from the company, but I can't say I'm surprised. A lot of the original depositors (myself included) waited for up to ten years before Geoff finally made good on his promises and even then he cheaped out by omitting sights and substituting an aluminum feed tray for the original steel design.
Good luck with the repair attempts. Perhaps a skilled machinist could open up the gas block and sleeve it? |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 1:50:45 PM EDT
[#27]
Alright. Making some progress on the turd!
Here are a couple pics of what I've run into so far. This is the gouge in the receiver, it seems to run the full length of the bolt carrier stroke. I imagine this is the friction eating up most my delinking energy. The moly grease hides it a bit and the flash washes it out..but i tried :/ 
I looked around at what could possibly have caused this mark, as its pretty gnarly. I thought it was the long cocking ear on the bolt carrier, but the mark lined up with the bottom edge of the cam pin. In this pic you can see where i sanded down the bottom outer edge of the cam pin. 
1/3 |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 1:51:15 PM EDT
[#28]
2/3
Links - The links seemed a bit unhappy to me. They looked dry and tired. So i sent them for a day in the spa {Carls Jr Cup and squirt of WD} i hose down all the links and swished em around to clean off any residual crap. Then i dumped em in a strainer basket thing and hit em with the air hose. They are surely cleaner and happier looking. The park on them turned to a bit darker color instead of the ashy grey they looked like. I linked up about ten rounds and hand cycled them through. First thing i noticed was the rounds pushed into the links easier. As i hand cycled them though it was about a 50/50 on wether or not they would strip the first time, or need a second slingshot of the handle to get them to go. The first of the belt made it home, so i was happy about that. Then a re rack here or there but for the most part it shows like it wants to run. With a coating of moly slime the carrier moves through the receiver like a different animal. it was very draggy, though well oiled. Now it moves pretty silky through the motions. So that just leaves the barrel and gas block to deal with before i can test fire it again. It REALLY sucks that Fightlite drags their feet like this. I can't even get past the front desk to talk to anyone "real". You call, they email you some paperwork, you email them back, they never respond, by email or phone. You call back, they say oh i need to respond to that. Ill get back to you. {But don't} Like seriously. WTF. Give me 15 minutes with someone that knows what sizes things shouldn't and should be. Get me the correct parts ordered. Done. I should have the parts to fix this on the way right now, not a week out waiting on a return phone call. UGH. *ENDRANT* |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 1:51:45 PM EDT
[#29]
3/3
So I'm thinking i either A} Make a sleeve for the gas block, furnace braze it in place, the bore the gas block up to .748. B} Bump Knurl the Barrel Gas Journal to light press fit {.755"}. Liberal application of Rocksett and push into place. C} Braze the gas journal of the barrel to build it up then turn it down to .754" to match the gas block. C and a half } Turn down the gas journal, shrink fit a 4140 sleeve. then turn that down to .754" D} Turn an AR Barrel Blank to fit the Shrek upper. It seems to be nothing special other than a holed drilled {probably EDM} for the locking pin and a few extra cuts for feeding from above. F} Fabricobble an aftermarket Gas Block to work with the Shrek upper. Or just make my own from scratch. So those are my choices as far as i can see them right now. Im going to give this till monday for Fightlite to respond, but if not, fuck it. Im going all in DIY full regret mode. I will probably chop the barrel to 12" at this point and re-thread it if i go full retard. Hopefully i don't ruin this thing, but momma didn't raise a patient man. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 2:22:59 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here are a couple pics of what I've run into so far. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 2:29:31 PM EDT
[#31]
Re host your pictures- photobucket no longer allows linking.
AFA the links, you can tumble them overnight in walnut, and then use spray wax. That works the best. Also look at the front band on the link, make sure during the stamping a ridge is not left, that can cause the round to catch. The newer links are junk compared to the older ones IMO. 
Before you do anything permanent to the barrel, try shimming it with thin metal. That way you can see how much loss of gas is affecting other things. if you cant shim it, hit the gas block with a couple welds on the opposite of the gas hole, then grind down to fit, as long as the gas hole side it tight it doesnt matter. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 5:07:07 PM EDT
[#32]
I tried uploading to one drive and imgur i don't seem to be having much luck.
Good call on the shim, worth a shot to see if it'll run at least, without doing anything crazy. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 5:23:28 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When you go to charge the weapon you rack the bolt it won't strip the round the first time. Basically you have to pull the handle back twice to get it to hammer the round out of the link. This might just be break in, or normal, or some other issue. lol i don't know yet. ........ Since Fightlite won't even sell me the parts to fix their fuck up. {Did i mention I'm disgusted with fightlite?} Now with the bolt all the way back, engage the bolt catch, put the belt in the feed tray, close the topcover, then release the bolt catch. You have just charged the weapon. After firing all the rounds the bolt catch should catch the bolt allowing you to reload without using the charging Handle. Ill admit mine doesn't catch it ever time I only use the charging hanndle to lock the bolt back and clearing jams, not for starting a new belt. As far as them not sending you parts to fix "their mistake" is it possible the mistake was not buying a unit from the manufacturer that is backed with a 1 year warrantee and support over getting a "deal" on someones none functioning unit? They will more than likely sell you a new barrel, or repair it for you if possible at your expense. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 5:30:41 PM EDT
[#34]
Edit, i wont say that the photo of your wear is good, but its not as bad as i have seen in the hand full of the ones i seen with my own eyes.
It is completely normal, we all wish it wasnt. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 6:40:17 PM EDT
[#35]
LOL. Its actually laughable people try and defend crap like this.
NO ONE. On this planet, aside from "Ares Defense" Cut that barrel journal too small, cut the gas block too large. Then put it all together KNOWING it wasn't right and kicked it out the door. My tax stamp took longer than a year to transfer, so whats it really matter where i bought it? It would be the same nonsensical run around. But heres the kicker! I called them {their phone number isn't even on their website} credit card in hand to order a bunch of spare parts, including a 12" barrel setup. I didn't know my barrel and gas block were toast at that point {but i did know the block wiggled}, i just wanted to have the shorty setup for shits and grins. I couldn't get anyone on the phone to tell me what i needed and take my money!! I didn't ask for warranty work, i said i have this and that issue what can you sell me to fix it? I wanted to know is the wiggly block normal? If they said Yes that would have been that, or No, send it in we'll fix it. Then i could have at least continued to place my order and get the 12" on the way! But NOOOOOO. We will email you a form to fill out requesting us to contact you at our leisure so maybe then you'll be given the opportunity to spend some money. Maybe. 1/2 |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 6:41:09 PM EDT
[#36]
2/2
FWIW I have 2 buddies that just bought M16's as well, both of them wanted Shrike uppers BAD. I called them and showed them this shit, told them spend their money with Freedom and get the FM-9. It costs less than half the money, actually works, and you can get support for the thing on the phone. NO MATTER WHERE YOU BOUGHT IT. More sales dollars lost :( So i guess I'm the bad guy for trying to fix this piece of junk. I get it. Its all my fault. How dare the manufacture support secondary sales, those are the devil! They need to make sure anyone who invests their money with Fightlite loses their ass and is never able to sell the junk, forcing more initial sales for them! That might be that actual worst business model I've ever heard of. I'll let ya know when this thing runs. Then its getting ran over by a half track. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 10:50:22 PM EDT
[#37]
I think your taking what i said the wrong way, then your rebuttle is full of fail.
If you fill fill out the request form they will give you your options.i bought mine from an authorized dealer, shot 55k round through it, ruined it, and the basically sent me a new one for free. They dont care where you bought it if you bought it from an authorized dealer. When you bought it matters....you have 1 year warrentee. Why do you feel they should fix your unit? Lets say it works fine now. A year from now when it breaks should they still fix it? These units are use and throw away or send back ... be polite and they'll fix it for $1000...so if thats the case buying a used one for more than 2000 is a bad deal. If you want a lifetime warrentee you should have bought a hk sear and a Michaels machine mm23ek (sear and host cost 45k) and even then its got a great warrentee, but you could wait 6 months to a year to get it repaired. Maybe your new to Full Auto or beltfeds....you got to pay to play. The ammo cost to ruin a shrike/mcr is many times more than the cost of the unit. And $1000 to repair it is how many rounds exactly? Regardless of what you Think about my opinion of your situation my loading advice is solid and only trying to help. And while you may not like my opinion, you have to admit some it rings true. If you bought a new one you'd be up and running, beak it and have it fixed... once again IHMO its wirth it just to avoid the stress. Just be warned, while great, these are toys... they are an inexpensive way into belt feds. Oh and the FM9s suck.. yes they work (about as good as a shrike) but load goofy and belt fed pistol rounds are just stupid . before you crush your shike, condsider trading my it for my fm9 with less than 500 rds in it. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 11:47:52 PM EDT
[#38]
I just skimmed over this post again...personally i like the looks and function of the shrike bolt catch.
Also just to mention it with a carbine setup a few quarter behide the buffer spring works as a shim in many setups. Not that you can't do that with a A2 stock, its just alot of quarters and un necessary weight. I sent you a pm as well |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 12:28:14 AM EDT
[#39]
Gas Port in the Barrel is about .083" {unmodified as far as i know}
The 3 position gas selector thing holes are about .040" .045" and .050" {Seems pretty small to me?} Sprinco Orange and MG34 {New Manufacture, The hoarder in me couldn't come to cut up an original} Springs are ordered, just for comparison and curiosity's sake. Also got some 2" long 2/0 taper pins and taper reamer {just to clean knurl burs out, they are already reamed a bit deep}....... I took a look at my links. They are stamped "ALK" and appear to be the smoother style with a nice radius on each side of the hoops. Thats about it for now until parts show up or Fightlite gives me a shout back. {Did you detect the sarcasm? I was rolling my eyes as bitchily as possible.} As of now my plan is to knurl the journal and rocksett the gas block in place. I tested my knurls on an old AK barrel and using the medium pitch knurl i can bump it up .010" pretty easy, leaving me enough to turn back down to nominal. the knurl hatch seems to leave no direct path for gas to leak. so between that and the rocksett all should be GTG. Then again, all things considered i have no clue WTF i am doing, totally winging it here...... The countdown continues. Will i get a return call before patience runs out? Will knurls happen? Tune in next time................. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 8:19:55 AM EDT
[#40]
mine took about a year, multiple calls yelling at secretaries, blind calling the company all day long at random offices until I got a replacement.
I do feel for you. It sucks spending that coin and getting a POS |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 10:29:09 AM EDT
[#41]
Taylor, what issues did you have with yours?
I've seen others have the same poor gas block fit on Ares generation uppers. Back then though Ares took care of it, probably well aware of the issue. Was yours the one with a fast wearing receiver? If so, where did it wear out at? |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 12:36:50 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Was yours the one with a fast wearing receiver? If so, where did it wear out at? TLDR receiver trashed, tried everything to fix, after a year got a replacement receiver and feed insert. I guess those pricks are using a metal insert I bitched about them not using in the first place. |
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Posted: 7/16/2017 1:15:50 PM EDT
[#43]
The metal insert is an improvement, if you look at the fightlite advertisement where they tell you what was retained and what was improved from the gen 5 modell they make no mention of the new steel insert.perhaps they dont like admitting there may have been a problem.
My old unit without the insert didn't experience any issues in that area.what failed on mine was the channel the charging handle rides in, the hole the oprod goes through and the tube that houses the oprod and spring that wore out. I think ill be giving ares(whatever) a call monday, i need 10 oprod springs and a firing pin. Midwest gun Works only has 2 springs in stock.i use to change them more infrequently, now i just do it every 1500-2000 rounds.it probably depends on how aggressively you use your unit. Every time i call them i ask if they have any used demo barrels, a buddy of mine got some one time. They prefer you buy new ones. Maybe if the op askes nicely they help him out.ill let you know what they say. |
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Posted: 7/17/2017 12:22:09 AM EDT
[#44]
OP, I can upload images for you. Just email them to me. Jaqufrost at gmail dot com.
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Posted: 7/18/2017 11:55:30 PM EDT
[#45]
Alright, FL reached out to me today and said "They want to see the upper"
Im not terribly sure what that means, or what they are proposing at this point. Im half elated, half worried to let it out of my sight. Will keep y'all updated with the progress. The skies lighten.... |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 11:50:32 PM EDT
[#46]
Send Them everything. I didnt send the barrels..or may not have sent all barrels and they made me send them.. i didnt have a barrel issue.Also make sure the unit is clean or theyll charge you.
Also dont call Them up and say there unit is a piece of shit..my buddy syarted off that way and got nowhere good. I was happy with mine told them so and they where happy to get it done.i totally understand if you where an initial purchaser who wait 8+ years to hold a grudge. But the past is the past. Once your up and running youll be a fanboy too. |
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Posted: 7/20/2017 9:42:10 AM EDT
[#47]
I like the idea {why i bought it} but i detest the level of service.
I also approached them as a fan boy, not as an irate or disappointed owner. From what i can tell, they want me to send them the complete upper so they can stare at it for an undetermined period of time, then they will bill me to repair the item that left their hands FUBAR in the first place. I CANNOT get a straight answer out of them for expected time frame for turnaround, intended outcome of sending it to them, nothing. No suggestion of "warranty", yet they will not tell me how much it would cost to fix their mistakes, or even what their shop rate is. "Send it to us, if it needs work, we will call you first" lol. UHM THE GAS BLOCK FELL THE FUCK OFF THE BARREL!! Of course it needs work! "We'll call you first" means to get billing authorization in my little mind. Uhm. No. lol. Anyhow the local machine gunners have rallied around the Shrike Conspiracy. I believe I'm just going to run my own parts. Side note the Sprinco Orange came in, seems to be about the same tension as the Factory Fight Lite spring, definetely less coils, but a thicker wire diameter. Out of 10 linked rounds i only had to drop the bolt twice on 2 rounds to strip and chamber them. {80% success rate} I think the receiver is just about ready to go. Side note #2 i got the mic's out today {i was just using dial calipers before} The barrel gas journal is on size {.7498}, only the gas block is over sized by several thou. I slid a mil spec gas block on just for a sanity check. Sure enough it located snug and securely. So if i could just get my hands on a gas block thats not oversized, i BELIEVE i will be good for my first semi successful test fire. |
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Posted: 7/20/2017 10:01:40 AM EDT
[#48]
The sprinco orange is designed to fully compress in a dpms style 308 carbine system. You can increase tension if you want by dropping a sleeve in the buffer tube for the sprint to stop on while the buffer goes deeper.
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Posted: 7/20/2017 2:03:00 PM EDT
[#49]
Barrel Extension and Bolt Lugs are non-standard. To anyone wondering.
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Posted: 7/23/2017 8:04:34 PM EDT
[#50]
I think you d be hard pressed to find a none proprietary part on that upper other than.... the bolt cam pin, firing pin , and firing pin retainer which are standard parts.
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