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got mine yesterday from Hansohn Bros (who are great guys, and what fast shipping too!)
wonderful system, makes everything else obsolete |
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Question for you all, I've noticed, and it has been mentioned earlier in this thread, that the CAM-LOK Piston-to-Barrel Adapter Interface seems like it requires you to pull the can off of the barrel adapter just slightly in order to engage the threads to tighten the can.
I'm not sure if this is the way all of the CAM-LOK pistons and barrel adapters are fitting together, but they are with mine, so far. (very small sample) Question is, in practice, is this an issue? Is it something that "wears in" and becomes a non-issue once the parts have interfaced enough times? In the videos, it appears the cans are able to be fully seated and twisted, at speed, as opposed to having to be slightly pulled apart, then twisted. Any thoughts? This required "gap" is maybe 1/32", not even 1mm. Any issues with this in actual use? |
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Quoted: Question for you all, I've noticed, and it has been mentioned earlier in this thread, that the CAM-LOK Piston-to-Barrel Adapter Interface seems like it requires you to pull the can off of the barrel adapter just slightly in order to engage the threads to tighten the can. I'm not sure if this is the way all of the CAM-LOK pistons and barrel adapters are fitting together, but they are with mine, so far. (very small sample) Question is, in practice, is this an issue? Is it something that "wears in" and becomes a non-issue once the parts have interfaced enough times? In the videos, it appears the cans are able to be fully seated and twisted, at speed, as opposed to having to be slightly pulled apart, then twisted. Any thoughts? This required "gap" is maybe 1/32", not even 1mm. Any issues with this in actual use? View Quote Mine seem to "break in" reminds me of getting Key-Mo for first time- collars are tight as shit but after several on/off they loosen up, this has been my CAM-LOK experience also. After playing with it several times it seems to find "sweet spot" easier. I am used to "snapping" my traditional pistol silencers down tight for the last little bit, to really seat them on the barrel. I know that's not the best technical description, but when I put CAM-LOK silencer on, it's a very delibrate turn, make sure its on that taper and GO! |
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Having to push together, twist, and pull away is normal. It sometimes breaks in slightly to be nearly not required, but it is normal. We have to have some Z tolerance because very small changes in diameters on the tapers can push Z a few thousandths, and we are only working with about .014" across the threads and want near complete engagement of threads so we chose a fairly agressive helix angle to create tolerance to make the parts interchangeable across runs.
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Quoted: Finally had my 1/2x28 special cam lok mount delivered! The 938 is my edc and I got the threaded barrel last year. I put off getting a 1/2x28 special piston and I’m glad I did because now it has cam lok. Will try it this afternoon and see how it runs. I know the 938 can be finicky with heavier cans so we shall see how the obsidian 9k does. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50356138152_b6a91fcdcc_b.jpg View Quote The 938, can, and somewhat vintage Griffin mouse pad look sick! Pretty sweet combo. It's cool to see a 1/2x28 special used as intended in the field, for some Engineered Silence® |
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Quoted: Finally had my 1/2x28 special cam lok mount delivered! The 938 is my edc and I got the threaded barrel last year. I put off getting a 1/2x28 special piston and I’m glad I did because now it has cam lok. Will try it this afternoon and see how it runs. I know the 938 can be finicky with heavier cans so we shall see how the obsidian 9k does. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50356138152_b6a91fcdcc_b.jpg View Quote Ok, that’s cool. |
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I read on Facebook that someone launched their can down range using a 1/2x28 cam-lok.
Has anyone else had an issue? Would love to convert to this! |
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Quoted: I read on Facebook that someone launched their can down range using a 1/2x28 cam-lok. Has anyone else had an issue? Would love to convert to this! View Quote I did that once with an Octane 45 on a regular 3-lug. That’s where an over-bored 45 can on a 9mm saves getting baffle or front cap hits. The bullet barely kissed the last 2 inches of suppressor bore. The easier a mount goes on the easier it is to get sloppy with it. I’m more careful now. |
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Quoted: I read on Facebook that someone launched their can down range using a 1/2x28 cam-lok. Has anyone else had an issue? Would love to convert to this! View Quote I’d like to see some more actual details of this happening. Like what caliber was being shot, what ammo, and whether the locking threads failed, or whether it wasn’t on there right (like not rotated to engage the threads and the taper fully). |
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Quoted: I read on Facebook that someone launched their can down range using a 1/2x28 cam-lok. Has anyone else had an issue? Would love to convert to this! View Quote Nope. No issues here. I’m very anal about checking things though. I’ve put 500+ rounds of 45 through various Cam-Lok equipped cans and hosts in the last couple weeks with no problems. It’s simple but still a mechanical interface. I’ve never had a problem with ASR either but others obviously have. I tend to double check everything when it comes to firearms for several reasons. Safety is paramount but these are also expensive items that are a PITA to get and replace. Taking an extra couple seconds to make sure things are attached correctly has saved me a lot of “pain” over the years. |
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Quoted: Nope. No issues here. I’m very anal about checking things though. I’ve put 500+ rounds of 45 through various Cam-Lok equipped cans and hosts in the last couple weeks with no problems. It’s simple but still a mechanical interface. I’ve never had a problem with ASR either but others obviously have. I tend to double check everything when it comes to firearms for several reasons. Safety is paramount but these are also expensive items that are a PITA to get and replace. Taking an extra couple seconds to make sure things are attached correctly has saved me a lot of “pain” over the years. View Quote I have worked with a few guys before that could break a steel ball-bearing in a padded room. I don't doubt this kind of stuff happens, but I feel like its more than likely user error, than a failure of the system. |
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Quoted: The 938, can, and somewhat vintage Griffin mouse pad look sick! Pretty sweet combo. It's cool to see a 1/2x28 special used as intended in the field, for some Engineered Silence® View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Finally had my 1/2x28 special cam lok mount delivered! The 938 is my edc and I got the threaded barrel last year. I put off getting a 1/2x28 special piston and I’m glad I did because now it has cam lok. Will try it this afternoon and see how it runs. I know the 938 can be finicky with heavier cans so we shall see how the obsidian 9k does. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50356138152_b6a91fcdcc_b.jpg The 938, can, and somewhat vintage Griffin mouse pad look sick! Pretty sweet combo. It's cool to see a 1/2x28 special used as intended in the field, for some Engineered Silence® Thanks! It does look good with that setup and I put a few dozen rounds through it. So far it works pretty well, had a hand full failure to feeds, hopefully once I run that setup more, it’ll be more reliable. |
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@Green0
Do you have a recommendation or a plan for the 1 3/16-24 Booster crowd? These are the most popular stand alone boosters - they are widely used with F1 build and seemingly the only 'standard' booster modules there are. SD Tactical Arms, Gemtech and Liberty each make one, others do as well I am sure. However, I am not sure if any of them accept the standard pistons you make for Cam-Lok yet - such as SilencerCo, Griffin, Dead Air, Rugged, AAC, etc. Perhaps they do and I just don't know it. Point is, legions of folks that wish to convert to Cam-Lok won't be able to unless there is a 1 3/16-24 booster that accepts a Cam-Lok piston. I've asked SDTA, Gemtech if their boosters accept any of the pistons you currently make for Cam-Lok - I haven't gotten a response - so if anyone knows, please speak up. If anyone knows of another solution or plans - please share! |
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Quoted: @Green0 Do you have a recommendation or a plan for the 1 3/16-24 Booster crowd? These are the most popular stand alone boosters - they are widely used with F1 build and seemingly the only 'standard' booster modules there are. SD Tactical Arms, Gemtech and Liberty each make one, others do as well I am sure. However, I am not sure if any of them accept the standard pistons you make for Cam-Lok yet - such as SilencerCo, Griffin, Dead Air, Rugged, AAC, etc. Perhaps they do and I just don't know it. Point is, legions of folks that wish to convert to Cam-Lok won't be able to unless there is a 1 3/16-24 booster that accepts a Cam-Lok piston. I've asked SDTA, Gemtech if their boosters accept any of the pistons you currently make for Cam-Lok - I haven't gotten a response - so if anyone knows, please speak up. If anyone knows of another solution or plans - please share! View Quote Sounds like you'd want to just buy a Griffin Bushwhacker 46 booster assembly, no? I dont know if it is available separately. Looked, didnt see it. |
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Quoted: A few issues there, I don't know if that assembly is 1 3/16-24 - second, that one appears to have the piston set too deep. Take a look at the Gemtech LID, the SDTA Booster and the Liberty Booster - the piston is biased to have a greater portion of it to be external to the main suppresor tube. Many pistol cans have a smaller chamber and this style booster fits them, whereas one with the piston being 80% in the can body, it would not fit. https://productdatahub.com/images/rsr/large/GEM12177_1.jpg https://sdtacticalarms.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/booster-black-01.jpg https://2uw3472yi3st1vb2ak31mt31-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/booster2b.jpg This is important to many many Form1 Pistol can builders, as the cans are built to accommodate that threading and booster configuration where the piston is as much on the outside of the body as it is inside. If any of these boosters already accept a camlok piston then, we're all set - but I know the liberty does not - I cannot tell from pictures on the others. There are threads on Reddit and the Form1 Suppressors board about this - so many are trying to figure out this exact thing - how to convert the existing cans they have to cam-lok. View Quote From Griffins page for the Bushwhacker 46: Compatible with Universal QD piston system 1.375x24 threaded rear interface to support alternative mounting options Supports 3-lug QD kit in 9mm and 10mm/.45 via 1.375x24 Booster piston housing So I dont see why that wouldnt work, other than I dont know if they'd sell it separate. |
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Quoted: From Griffins page for the Bushwhacker 46: Compatible with Universal QD piston system 1.375x24 threaded rear interface to support alternative mounting options Supports 3-lug QD kit in 9mm and 10mm/.45 via 1.375x24 Booster piston housing So I dont see why that wouldnt work, other than I dont know if they'd sell it separate. View Quote 1.375x24 is different than 1 3/16x24, different threading. That aside, the piston is set too deep. There is a bit of a standard with the gemtech style booster - used heavily by Form1 builders. |
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Quoted: 1.375x24 is different than 1 3/16x24, different threading. That aside, the piston is set too deep. There is a bit of a standard with the gemtech style booster - used heavily by Form1 builders. View Quote Oh you sincerely meant 1-3/16. I thought maybe you made a typo. Well, sounds like my idea wont help you then. |
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@Green0
I got to take my 9mm and 45ACP adapters to the range today with my Obsidian 45 using the universal piston and it functioned flawlessly. Actually, it may have functioned a little too well. I got the can on each pistol just twisting it on tight with my hands. On both adapters (one on a CZ P10C and the other on a 1911) when I went to remove the can, it was stuck on super hard. I held the gun down with one hand and twisted with the other and just couldn’t get it. My range buddy had to hold the pistol down while I twisted the can with both hands, and that worked. Neither adapter came off and there’s no damage or anything to the adapters or the piston, it just really really didn’t want to come off. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a step I’m missing, such as lubing the threads or using some kind of thin o-ring in between the adapter and the piston? Or do I just need to step up my gym time? I’m able to twist the suppressor on and off at home, but after firing it really gets stuck. Amazing system, I can never go back to regular pistons even with this “issue”. I hesitate to call it that since the system worked amazingly well. Thanks for reading and let me know if there’s something I should be doing! |
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I would recommend putting oil on the taper in the piston. Also I haven't really briskly tightened a cam lok interface to use it. I snug the can to the adaptor and shoot it. If you over-tighten, especially without lubrication on the taper, you can stick the adapter a bit, requiring the use of a spanner on the can to loosen it.
Pertaining to the concept of launching a pistol silencer, I haven't heard it from the source or gotten any feedback from customer service, but wouldn't really be surprised if someone tried to use one without quite getting familiar with the system, because that could result in trying to shoot the silencer without meshing the threads at all which would obviously not work. That would be like getting Garand thumb because you didn't think about the bolt closing with your thumb in the action. A couple visitors were brought here by a guy we know who works with Hill People Gear, and they were guys from a government agency, both former Army SF guys, and we had a good conversation and an enjoyable visit. One of them was a bit of a fan of the company and had several of our products, and he initially couldn't quite figure the CAM-LOK interface out, which is understandable as it seems so simple, he probably didn't listen as I told him how it functioned. I explained it 2-3 times and he figured it out. It took about a minute but demonstrated how someone could potentially fail to conceptualize it, or to realize there was something there to conceptualize. To mount the can, you have to: 1. bayonet the barrel mount into the piston until the tapers contact. Sometimes that requires a slight radial search for the bayonet position before the can drops in. 2. apply and maintain light radial tension with either the can or the pistol in a clockwise direction 3. pull the silencer away from the pistol (this allows the threads to mesh whereupon the radial tension follows through, tightening the silencer onto the adaptor). To dismount the user has to: 1. put slight (slight) linear tension on the silencer, as if to pull the silencer off the barrel adaptor. 2. unscrew the silencer (as this happens the silencer will unlock and pop off the adapter). Errors I've seen are, pushing tapers together and trying to tighten the adapter without meshing the threads- it won't turn. Also unscrewing the silencer without pulling the silencer away from the gun- which can result in re-meshing the threads during removal and making the system look like it doesn't work well. So it's like an M1-Garand, where you have to learn the concept, and then it works so well, that people can watch someone do it without really figuring it out. |
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Quoted: 1.375x24 is different than 1 3/16x24, different threading. That aside, the piston is set too deep. There is a bit of a standard with the gemtech style booster - used heavily by Form1 builders. View Quote Interesting concept. I don't know if we will support it or not. We don't have a 1 3/16X24 booster system currently. It looks like it would have to be made of aluminum, which means anodizing and somewhat looser tolerances than we can hold with 17-4 stainless steel due to involving anodizing vendors who as well as anodizing parts, sometimes burn up parts, or botch and strip and re-finish parts. Hardcoat adds .001-.0015" per surface, and stripping and re-anodizing doesn't add material, and might remove some material. |
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Quoted: Interesting concept. I don't know if we will support it or not. We don't have a 1 3/16X24 booster system currently. It looks like it would have to be made of aluminum, which means anodizing and somewhat looser tolerances than we can hold with 17-4 stainless steel due to involving anodizing vendors who as well as anodizing parts, sometimes burn up parts, or botch and strip and re-finish parts. Hardcoat adds .001-.0015" per surface, and stripping and re-anodizing doesn't add material, and might remove some material. View Quote @green0 Thanks for considering it. The Dead Air booster is the same concept.... which would be perfect because you make cam-lok pistons for it. HOWEVER, while Dead Air decided to duplicate the build, they chose to change the thread to 1 3/16-28 instead of -24. So that's a no go. I don't necessarily think Griffin should make a 1 3/16-24 booster - while that solves the problem - it's not necessary. SDTA, Gemtech and Liberty all make them - already. I would suggest the easiest way for Griffin to tap that market by enabling the pistol can form 1 builders (legions of them) to use Cam-Lok would be to simply make a piston that works with one of those already existing boosters. The SDTA seems to be the go to as they are readily available all the time - so form1 builders use that as a Go-To for their pistol cans. I SDTA booster is 92 bucks with a piston of your choice, so it's cheap as well. |
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Is there a thread protector available? I saw a QD comp, is that the protector? If so, are they for sale?
This looks great for hopefully ending/drastically reducing end cap strikes for pistol use. |
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Quoted: Is there a thread protector available? I saw a QD comp, is that the protector? If so, are they for sale? This looks great for hopefully ending/drastically reducing end cap strikes for pistol use. View Quote I think Green0 addressed this earlier, that he doesn't think a thread protector is necessary but you could use the comp for that if you felt like it. I've now put Cam-lok on 5 different hosts, including my carry gun, and I'm not concerned at all, the threads are super beefy. |
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I missed his comments. Thx for letting me know. Did you torque them to 20 or just hand tight plus little more (freeball it)?
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I actually torqued to 20ft/lb, have to justify buying the driver by occasionally using it.
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Comps are in stock back from nitride.
I don't know when marketing will get them online for sale. |
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Just went ballz out on Hansohn Brothers and got adapters for every single threaded pistol barrel I have. #gamechanger
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@Green0 This is an OEM Gen 4 Glock 19 barrel. It has a weird step behind the threading, and when I install the normal 1/2x28 adapter, it drags on the recoil spring (if the adapter stopped at the step, it would clear the recoil spring). Will the "special" 1/2x28 adapter work?
Attached File |
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I’m embarrassed to ask but here we go....I installed the LH adapter on vp9sk barrel. Installed the piston on obsid 9 can. Is the piston a RH install on barrel? If so...are all pistons RH install? Graciousness.
Thanks |
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Quoted: @Green0, I believe the checkmate QD does work with the SiCo Spectre 22 but you have to remove two baffles from my research. I thought about doing it at one point but you haven’t made any kits in a while. I also decided I rather have the extra suppression on my sbr anyway since I use bulk pack generally. If you made a 22 cam-lok mount for the checkmate, I would think it would work on my can then since the Spectre 22 and checkmate share the same thread pitch. I would love that as an option, to have a QD taper and not loose any baffles or gain much additional length. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: You missed the more important part of his post: They came out with CAM-LOK and said "We aren't making an Osprey piston" their consumer base said "Aww man... that stinks. I'd love one!" and they listened. How many times do you see that? We try to listen. We also produced the 14.5X1LH 40 caliber CAM-LOK™ adapter that people asked for, the SRD compatible CAM-LOK™ piston, and the Ghost/Wolfmann compatible Plan-A™ adapter recently. Earlier this year we put a flash suppressing feature into the Optimus Micro cap. I think the CAM-LOK kit for rimfire and fixed barrel applications makes sense because it would be able to support the Checkmate direct thread and both of our current rimfire suppressors. The Checkmate QD kit is a much harder sell, because it doesn't support anything else. @Green0, I believe the checkmate QD does work with the SiCo Spectre 22 but you have to remove two baffles from my research. I thought about doing it at one point but you haven’t made any kits in a while. I also decided I rather have the extra suppression on my sbr anyway since I use bulk pack generally. If you made a 22 cam-lok mount for the checkmate, I would think it would work on my can then since the Spectre 22 and checkmate share the same thread pitch. I would love that as an option, to have a QD taper and not loose any baffles or gain much additional length. Ditto |
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Quoted: I’m embarrassed to ask but here we go....I installed the LH adapter on vp9sk barrel. Installed the piston on obsid 9 can. Is the piston a RH install on barrel? If so...are all pistons RH install? Graciousness. Thanks View Quote The CAM-LOK system is RH thread. The thread adapter is what it needs to be so that it matches your barrel. Yes, you twist the CAM-LOK right or clockwise from the barrel end to lock it. |
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Quoted: The CAM-LOK system is RH thread. The thread adapter is what it needs to be so that it matches your barrel. Yes, you twist the CAM-LOK right or clockwise from the barrel end to lock it. View Quote We wanted it to be natural to install the cans and installation torque makes it not an issue to have right hand threads. The LH threads only exist because HK made a RH thread for the MK-23, and wanted to make sure the MK-23 OHG could not be installed on an HK tactical .45. The rest of the Left hand HK threads were probably intended to make people think Left hand threads were correct which wasn't really the case. The MK-23 just place-held the correct threads. |
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That means HK users are effectively "untorquing" the Cam lok when mounting a can on. 1 of the reasons I chose the Ghost 45M was because it's booster housing can be gripped independently from the silencer body to torque/mount it onto the barrel threads, unlike the Rev45, which houses its booster inside the tube body. But adding an additional interface that employs opposing threads effectively negates that & introduces a slight risk of loosening it from the barrel.
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Quoted: That means HK users are effectively "untorquing" the Cam lok when mounting a can on. 1 of the reasons I cho6the Ghost 45M was because it's booster housing can be gripped independently from the silencer body to torque/mount it onto the barrel threads, unlike the Rev45, which houses its booster inside the tube body. But adding an additional interface that employs opposing threads effectively negates that & introduces a slight risk of loosening it from the barrel. View Quote Well, kinda. You put the thread adapters on the barrel with much more torque than I can do by gripping the can. Plus, you don't have to really "HULK SMASH" the can on with CAM-Lok. I go "snug" plus a little more and it stays put. |
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Quoted: Well, kinda. You put the thread adapters on the barrel with much more torque than I can do by gripping the can. Plus, you don't have to really "HULK SMASH" the can on with CAM-Lok. I go "snug" plus a little more and it stays put. View Quote Absolutely. I don't tighten the cans nearly as tight with Cam-lok. On standard pistons I would tighten them briskly and often. With Cam Lok it's just snug and once. With a rev, I tighten the housing to the tube with a wrench and the retainer finger snug, no issues. |
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Best mount next to a 3 lug. Put the cam-lok on my g19 stays tight and runs flawlessly.
Now I need one for my sig |
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Quoted: Absolutely. I don't tighten the cans nearly as tight with Cam-lok. On standard pistons I would tighten them briskly and often. With Cam Lok it's just snug and once. With a rev, I tighten the housing to the tube with a wrench and the retainer finger snug, no issues. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Well, kinda. You put the thread adapters on the barrel with much more torque than I can do by gripping the can. Plus, you don't have to really "HULK SMASH" the can on with CAM-Lok. I go "snug" plus a little more and it stays put. Absolutely. I don't tighten the cans nearly as tight with Cam-lok. On standard pistons I would tighten them briskly and often. With Cam Lok it's just snug and once. With a rev, I tighten the housing to the tube with a wrench and the retainer finger snug, no issues. Good to hear. |
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I ordered some, they're shipping from RSR, is there a quick & easy way to tell if the 13.5X1LH adapter is the recalled one or the current one? I'd hope they replaced their inventory, but want to be sure.
Thanks |
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Quoted: I ordered some, they're shipping from RSR, is there a quick & easy way to tell if the 13.5X1LH adapter is the recalled one or the current one? I'd hope they replaced their inventory, but want to be sure. Thanks View Quote The new one is ~3/8" longer - I posted detailed pictures a few pages back. |
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View Quote Neat kitten. The Cam Lok compensators are out. https://www.griffinarmament.com/cam-lok-carry-compensator-9mm-45cal/ |
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Quoted: Neat kitten. The Cam Lok compensators are out. https://www.griffinarmament.com/cam-lok-carry-compensator-9mm-45cal/ https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-lbyqmcyjkm/images/stencil/800x800/products/331/1339/Untitled-3__06558.1601940634.jpg?c=2 View Quote @Green0 Trying to order a Comp and your server is throwing errors as soon as I submit the order! "Server Error Something went wrong... Please try again later." DOH! |
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Was the error at the point of order submission of the complete order? What internet browser?
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