User Panel
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I just prefer the UC is all. Easier to deal with for me anyways. I've only used the dip on leaded up barrels. I honestly don't know how well the dip works on carbon that's caked on. May work really well. But the issue is not so much lead as it is carbon that almost seems to bond with the metal on a molecular level (joking, but that stuff is REALLY on there) View Quote US is the method of choice in the automotive industry for cleaning engine internals & components (BIG time carbon deposition pistons & valves), although the industrial US units operate at higher Hz, which is supposed to be preferred for aluminum. What are your thoughts/observations regarding that & the anodizing wear you mentioned earlier? ETA I despise auto incorrect. |
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I see. I haven't needed to clean my sealed can yet myself, but in researching it, the dip method does appear to remove everything, including the paint, which is okay since Cerakote C easy enough to come by. It looks to be a thorough method, the drawback being that it's restricted to using on SS, Inconel, & Stelite constructed (ie. rifle) cans. I really need to see if it reacts athe all with titanium. US is the method of choice in the automotive industry for cleaning engine internals have components (BIG time carbon deposition pistons have valves), although the industrial US units operate at higher Hz, which is supposed to be preferred for aluminum. What are your thoughts/observations regarding that the anodizing wear you mentioned earlier? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I just prefer the UC is all. Easier to deal with for me anyways. I've only used the dip on leaded up barrels. I honestly don't know how well the dip works on carbon that's caked on. May work really well. But the issue is not so much lead as it is carbon that almost seems to bond with the metal on a molecular level (joking, but that stuff is REALLY on there) US is the method of choice in the automotive industry for cleaning engine internals have components (BIG time carbon deposition pistons have valves), although the industrial US units operate at higher Hz, which is supposed to be preferred for aluminum. What are your thoughts/observations regarding that the anodizing wear you mentioned earlier? |
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I see. I haven't needed to clean my sealed can yet myself, but in researching it, the dip method does appear to remove everything, including the paint, which is okay since Cerakote C is easy enough to come by. It looks to be a thorough method, the drawback being that it's restricted to using on SS, Inconel, & Stelite constructed (ie. rifle) cans. I really need to see if it reacts at all with titanium. US is the method of choice in the automotive industry for cleaning engine internals have components (BIG time carbon deposition pistons have valves), although the industrial US units operate at higher Hz, which is supposed to be preferred for aluminum. What are your thoughts/observations regarding that & the anodizing wear you mentioned earlier? ETA I despise auto incorrect. View Quote Those I bead blast, which is also not a great idea because it removes the anodizing. That said there really is zero wear on any of the baffles. I guess the pistol powder isn't moving fast enough to have wear and erosion like you do with rifle cans. If I can take a can apart bead blasting if my preferred method for caked on carbon. Its fast and not much of a mess to clean up. |
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1.618" diameter, Good for 300 blackout subs and supers.
Might be a good way to get a modular 300 blackout can. |
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Good to see. Silencer Shop's ad copy has it listed as 1.375" diameter which seemed small to me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Good to see. Silencer Shop's ad copy has it listed as 1.375" diameter which seemed small to me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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1.618" diameter, Good for 300 blackout subs and supers. Might be a good way to get a modular 300 blackout can. This also explains the weight. |
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Yeah, that's good to hear. When I read 1.375" it immediately made the can seem pointless. Subgun cans should be a larger diameter like this. It's the perfect competitor to the Omega 9K, too bad Dead Air's 3-lug isn't a little shorter. View Quote Full specs are up on DA website. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/2072b02f-c9ac-4abd-8fe8-775ec3a04508-269880.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/badf893b-9150-4d6f-a29d-f39e5d1f2803-269881.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/e94f258d-aea7-4821-9c1f-58d297f036ec-269883.JPG Impressive numbers. View Quote I don't think there is any way they will come close to those numbers. |
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If they are true they are very impressive. I don't think there is any way they will come close to those numbers. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/2072b02f-c9ac-4abd-8fe8-775ec3a04508-269880.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/badf893b-9150-4d6f-a29d-f39e5d1f2803-269881.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/e94f258d-aea7-4821-9c1f-58d297f036ec-269883.JPG Impressive numbers. I don't think there is any way they will come close to those numbers. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/2072b02f-c9ac-4abd-8fe8-775ec3a04508-269880.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/badf893b-9150-4d6f-a29d-f39e5d1f2803-269881.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/361125/e94f258d-aea7-4821-9c1f-58d297f036ec-269883.JPG Impressive numbers. View Quote |
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No outer serialized tube to irreparably damage... View Quote |
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In the short it's 4 db louder than the Omega 9k (maybe more on an MP5) but .6 inches shorter. The long db numbers are impressive but the weight is a trade-off. To me it's cool but doesn't make sense for a semi PCC. A subgun might be different since that was the primary application.
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Since all the baffles are welded together, who cares. It is not like the are going to cut the stack in half and weld in a new set of baffles if you have a strike. Welded cans are generally 1 piece items. Hence a 2 piece can has some value for repair. View Quote So on a can that's intended for full-auto 9mm, if they serialize it close to the muzzle, they can cut off the baffle stack, and/or replace with a new second "long" module or whatever you want to call it (pending ATF's up-coming determination) |
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I realize they will cut the baffles off, that was my point. If there was tube covering the welds, and that tube was the serialized portion, were it damaged, I would possibly need a new suppressor, correct? So on a can that's intended for full-auto 9mm, if they serialize it close to the muzzle, they can cut off the baffle stack, and/or replace with a new second "long" module or whatever you want to call it (pending ATF's up-coming determination) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Since all the baffles are welded together, who cares. It is not like the are going to cut the stack in half and weld in a new set of baffles if you have a strike. Welded cans are generally 1 piece items. Hence a 2 piece can has some value for repair. So on a can that's intended for full-auto 9mm, if they serialize it close to the muzzle, they can cut off the baffle stack, and/or replace with a new second "long" module or whatever you want to call it (pending ATF's up-coming determination) Deleting the tube and welding the stack is a move to increase internal volume; take note of how this is done in conjunction with an increase in diameter of the can. |
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I was not aware of any MFG doing this. I think would be cheaper and safer to give them a new can AND pay the tax. View Quote |
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I haven't heard any stories yet of end users having a baffle strike or weld failure on their tubeless cans and how the manufacturer handled it. So I guess we'll all find out the course of action when someone suffers that issue and what the companies end up doing.
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I haven't heard any stories yet of end users having a baffle strike or weld failure on their tubeless cans and how the manufacturer handled it. So I guess we'll all find out the course of action when someone suffers that issue and what the companies end up doing. View Quote |
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Paid for mine last week. Makes for the 5th Dead Air can in jail this year.
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No outer serialized tube to irreparably damage... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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The tubeless design element is understood but not a reason for welds that appear to have an issue at first glance. They may be perfectly fused with a joint detail that facilitates the undercut appearance of these welds but they are not the most cosmetically pleasing I've seen. In the industry I work these would warrant further investigation/inspection prior to being approved for deployment. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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But why do welds look like total shit? 900 bucks for shitty welding? no way |
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On a totally unrelated note... DA is coming out with different end caps for the Ghost M. No ETA as of yet but they're being worked on.
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Maybe its just me but the welds look fine IMO. I mean its a rough look, but it looks like it's supposed to look that way so it's fine, if that makes sense? More importantly to me the cerakote looks good. When my dealer got in a shipment of Masks a couple of them had rough cerakote like there was bits of sand in places so I went through a couple of boxes and found a clean one. That grit in the cerakote would have bothered me a lot more than these welds, but maybe I just have a weird strain of OCD.
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Just ordered one. Will head down to the shop to do the kiosk thing either Monday or Tuesday when I pick up my Zenith Z-5P.
This will be my first can. |
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Source....This is the first I've heard this. I have a Ghost and was hoping they would offer endcaps to replace the wipes. View Quote |
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I wouldn't be touching anything modular until the ATF makes another determination they have no business making.
I like the way the welds look. Obviously done for aesthetic purposes. |
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I wouldn't be touching anything modular until the ATF makes another determination they have no business making. I like the way the welds look. Obviously done for aesthetic purposes. View Quote |
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Modular silencers are fine. I have no concerns buying anything on the market right now.
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I wouldn't be touching anything modular until the ATF makes another determination they have no business making. I like the way the welds look. Obviously done for aesthetic purposes. View Quote |
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Wasn't there a video a while back of someone screwing two Omegas together or something? Someone refresh my memory View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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The atf is talking about suppressors that can be turned from 1 suppressor into 2 suppressors. Not 1 suppressor into a shorter suppressor. View Quote |
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Why aren't there any reviews or videos on this can. I really want one, but I'm not throwing money down on it blindly.
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Why aren't there any reviews or videos on this can. I really want one, but I'm not throwing money down on it blindly. View Quote If it's what you're looking for on paper, I'd buy it as DA doesn't put out garbage. |
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It's brand new. Reviews on cans take some time. We still don't even have solid reviews/feedback on suppressors that came out before the Wolf. If it's what you're looking for on paper, I'd buy it as DA doesn't put out garbage. View Quote |
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I was just wondering if it was rated for .300 blackout. On Dead Air's site it says only 9mm, but The Firearm Blog says it's rated for .300 blackout. Just want some clarification. View Quote If you mean this post, I don't recall adding 300Blk specs. Not to steal Todd's response, but I just asked - the Wolf will handle 300 subs and supers. |
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http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/08/01/dead-air-wolf-9sd/ If you mean this post, I don't recall adding 300Blk specs. Not to steal Todd's response, but I just asked - the Wolf will handle 300 subs and supers. View Quote |
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I ordered one months ago before I even saw one. Still haven't received mine yet.
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I got mine in today but with the photo bucket changes I don't have a way to host pictures. I'll try to get a video on a few different hosts this weekend and report back.
Pictures are on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/HBguns/posts/1932590340348669 |
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