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Posted: 3/4/2002 9:24:01 AM EDT
I need some help making a decision.
You guys are more familiar with this stuff than I am.
My first AR was a post-ban Heavy Barrel (damn heavy!) 20".
I'd like to get it "thinned out" and a muzzle brake on it.
I assume the muzzle brake has to be permanent?
What combination of "thinning" and muzzle brake would you suggest?
I don't want a spaghetti thin barrel but I don't want the railroad tie weight that it is now.
Thanks a bunch!
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 9:41:45 AM EDT
You want an honest opinion? Start lifting weights. A 20" HBAR isn't so heavy it should be a problem...unless you're dragging it 300 miles across Afganistan with a full pack. If you really feel the need to drop the weight, get a shorter barrel (16")or a Colt (some Colt HBAR's are only heavy outside the handguard - underneath, they're thinner). Don't bother with trying to turn down your current barrel - what you spend on shop time will outweigh the cost of a new upper after its offset by selling the one you currently have.
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 9:45:39 AM EDT
Ditto to what he said, not only that, but if you get your barrel thinned out, you could lose some accuracy as well.

And about the brake -- you would need to weld that puppy on. I sent one downrange 2 weeks ago that was fastened with loc-tite on the set screws.

But, IMHO, I would not get a brake since you need to weld it. If you ever have to remove the front sight housing, you are screwed!

"Keep it simple, stupid." Words to live by. ;)
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 10:02:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/4/2002 10:05:45 AM EDT by Waverunner]
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 10:24:33 AM EDT
I will have to disagree with what the others have said here. I hate HBAR barrels!

Why have them, if you are shooting for accuracy go with a stainless bull barrel. I don't like HBARs because the weight is unnecessary, and yes I work-out (5 days a week I might add).

They also take way longer to cool down after a 30 round mag. Why do you think the military uses them? They are lighter to pack around and cool much faster which is important in full-go.

If I were you, I would list the upper on the EE and then order an upper from Bushmaster with the gov't profile barrel and have them remove the lug and install a brake. They will do this there while assembling the upper and should not charge you any more to have this done.
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 11:12:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/4/2002 11:15:52 AM EDT by smoken44]
An easy fix is to order a new USGI COLT M16 barrel from Sarco and a set of triangle handgards. Total cost about 150.00. They have a 1-12 twist for 55gr bullets. Cut off bayo lug and weld a brake on the threaded end.

Sell HBAR barrel and handgards.

Rifle will end weighing around 7 lbs.
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 11:12:59 AM EDT
Yeah the HBARS are too heavy and don't give you anything of value for that weight.

Send it to Kurt he does great work. He slimmed down my HBAR to a A2 profile will no loss of accuracy. Rifle weighs a pound less and swings/handles much better. My buddy has one of Kurt's 4 slot brakes on his A2 profile rifle and I've noticed his has half the muzzle rise of my rifle (I didn't opt for the brake). BTW with the A2 profile not only do you get a rifle that is a bit lighter than a 16" HBAR, but you get less noise, less flash, a high muzzle velocity, and a longer sight radius. BTW its also cheaper to have your 20" barrel turned down than it is to buy a new barrel.

Best $65 I ever spent on a rifle.
Link Posted: 3/4/2002 11:22:34 AM EDT
Send it to Kurt. He does the best work of any other AR15 smith out there. You will probably not notice any change in accuracy and it will be a lot lighter. However, be prepared to have your upper gone for a while. I sent one of mine down and he had it about a month. But well worth it.
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