Cutting down a Shotgun Barrel

Site Notices

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Cutting down a Shotgun Barrel

Posted: 1/14/2002 3:53:48 PM EDT

I have a Mossberg model 88 maverick with a ridiculously long barrel. I originally bought it to have a good bird gun but a pump is too slow so I bought a good semi. What I want to do is to cut down the barrel of the mossberg for a home defense scatter gun. If anyone has a method for doing this with a industrial pipe threaded/cutter or just a plain pipe cutter I would appreciate it. Also, are there are restrictions other than 16" barrel and 28" overall? Thank you in advance

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 3:55:02 PM EDT

[#1]

Rifles are 16" minimun, shotguns are 18" and 26" OAL. I'd suggest 18 1/4" minimum measured from the boltface to end of barrel with the action closed.

Posted: 1/14/2002 3:57:51 PM EDT

[#2]

where do I make the barrel measurements from?

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:05:23 PM EDT

[#3]

The barrel is measured from the boltface when closed.

The Overall length is from the end of the barrel to the end of the stock. It shouldn't be a problem with most modern guns since there will always be an additional 8" beyond the closed boltface, especially with a stock on it.

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:13:51 PM EDT

[#4]

So close the bolt and drop a tape measure down the barrel and go about 18 1/4? sounds easy. How about methods to cut it down myself?

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:15:19 PM EDT

[#5]

The best way is to get a wooden dowl longer than the barrel. Close the bolt and stick it down the barrel then mark it where the barrel ends. Then measure from the other end up to where you want to cut it and mark the dowl again. Then you can just line up the top mark with the muzzle and the second mark will be where you want to cut and you can then mark the barrel.

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:20:08 PM EDT

[#6]

I would suggest if you are the least bit unsure of how close your cut'll be to leave an extra inch (19") Many Riot Shotguns are 20", so this wouldn't be a big deal. I am currently pondering how to enter the NFA market. As soon as I hear back about Incorporating, I might file a form 1 and cut mine down to 13" which is as far as I can cut it w/o going past the end of the slide. I might also consider a SB AR.

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:46:52 PM EDT

[#7]

Use a pipe cutter. unless you have a cool radial saw. The pipe cutter will leave a bitchen edge on the barrel, file it off.
GG

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:51:46 PM EDT

[#8]

GG, it will leave the edge on the inside right?

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:54:21 PM EDT

[#9]

How picky are you? I once cut a shotgun barrel down with a hacksaw. I was careful about it, then filed the rough edges, then blued the bare metal. I think I was 16, just made a project out of it and the results were just fine.

SB

Posted: 1/14/2002 4:55:53 PM EDT

[#10]

I geuss I could put that set if ginsus I got for christmas to the test but I think the pipe cutter method will work just fine, thanks.

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 5:13:25 PM EDT

[#11]

I'v got a 500 so they are probebly different but on mine you can swap barrels by unthreading the barrel that way you could keep your old barrel and just by a 18.5" from mossberg. But be careful if you cut it ATF won't cut you any slack if you are even a 1/4" short you could be in trouble!

Posted: 1/14/2002 5:48:31 PM EDT

[#12]

It is too expensive to by the new barrel if they even make one

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 6:09:41 PM EDT

[#13]

It can be done with a pipe cutter or a hacksaw, then dressed off with a file or a table or vertical sander. Be sure to go at least 18 1/2 inches FINISHED lenght, to allow for any questionable measuring devices. Take a dremel tool and appropriate metal grinding stone and put a light crown (bevel)on the muzzle after you square up everything. Have you thought about how you will replace the front bead? When I do these for people I use a lathe to cut and then to crown. Then a Forester jig to aline and drill and tap for the replacement bead. You can either cold blue the bare metal or hot blue the entire barrel or just leave it bright and shiny!
Might want to check with a nearby 'smith and see how much he will charge to do the work for you.
1911 greg has a very good point, remeber this it how it all started with Randy Weaver.

Posted: 1/14/2002 6:24:05 PM EDT

[#14]

From what I hear, 18 1/2 is the unofficial official "safe" length. If I line up the front site perfectly, can I use a tap and die to thread it or just drill a hole and jb it on? This is gonna be used mainly in low light home proctection so is a front bead really that necessary?

Posted: 1/14/2002 6:34:08 PM EDT

[#15]

No offense intended, but most "eyeball" jobs will be canted either right or left, those round surfaces can be tough sometimes. Best way is to drill and tap. You gotta drill the hole anyway, even to use good old JB weld.
A bead is very helpful (for me anyway) to index the gun, even in low light. I usually will put a large aluminum bead on them, something that you can pick up in a hurry.

Posted: 1/14/2002 6:45:24 PM EDT

[#16]

Would cutting a rifle barrel down pretty much be the same process?

Posted: 1/14/2002 6:50:45 PM EDT

[#17]

Blackeye-
With a rifle barrel you will definately want to use a lathe, perferably with a 4 jaw chuck to insure proper alinement and also to crown the muzzle after the shortening, so that the bullet will exit and release in an even manner, not tilted in any one direction. If not accuracy will go to heck.
Also is the majority of cases the barrel will need to be pulled from the receiver prior to the shortening / recrowning operation. It will then need to be re-installed adn the headspace verified. Sorry for the original short answer.

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:06:04 PM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:
But be careful if you cut it ATF won't cut you any slack if you are even a 1/4" short you could be in trouble!

Remember Randy Weaver?

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:10:47 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
This is gonna be used mainly in low light home proctection so is a front bead really that necessary?

No, its not necessary. Just shoulder the shotgun normally with your cheek on the gun. Front beads break/fall off shotguns all the time. I shoot with some folks that never bothered replacing theirs and they hit the birds just fine.

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:13:28 PM EDT

[#20]

So now that I know what I am gonna do, what is the best home defense load?

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:33:41 PM EDT

[#21]

I use Handloads. I mix tacks, pellets, and .38 lead balls in a 3" Magnum Load. Ougtha do alot of damage. Slugs are also good.

A slug won't scatter and possibly damage stuff. On the other hand #000 will do alot of damage to the BG.

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:36:12 PM EDT

[#22]

Federal Tactical 00 or Winchester Ranger Low Recoil 00.

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:37:39 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
So now that I know what I am gonna do, what is the best home defense load?

Keving67

My favorites are 00 buck, 000 buck, or reduced velocity 1 oz slugs. I think the high velocity slugs are intended for 4 legged creatures.

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:39:17 PM EDT

[#24]

I hunt with deer slugs and I know that the recoil can be enormous. How would buck shot with a pistol grip compare to slugs?

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:44:34 PM EDT

[#25]

Buckshot is slightly less recoil than a slug. Slugs will make your arm hurt. So will Buck shot if you fire enough rounds.

Posted: 1/14/2002 7:57:13 PM EDT

[#26]

Back to cutting that barrel you might want to take the taper of the barrel into consideration if your going to use a pipe cutter. It could make your barrel look threaded i.e run down the barrel because of the taper. Just a thought. Maybe some of these other guys thats done it before could verify this. Also on the ammo part I like #4 shot for close range or indoors.Then 00 buck and even farther distances slugs.

Posted: 1/14/2002 8:06:24 PM EDT

[#27]

I am thinking about using the foot pedal operated mechanical pipe threader that I have at work. I and just going to wrap the barrel real good to keep it from marring up the steel.

Keving67

Posted: 1/14/2002 8:28:43 PM EDT

[#28]

Originally Posted By Gun Guru:
Use a pipe cutter. unless you have a cool radial saw. The pipe cutter will leave a bitchen edge on the barrel, file it off.
GG

I say leave the edge. Bayonet? Fuck that! The edge will leave a nice mark when you do the twist and shout with it on someone's forehead.

Kinda like a hole saw - leave the burrs for extra bite.

Posted: 1/15/2002 2:41:30 PM EDT

[#29]

Federal #4 tactical buck is what I use.
GG

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Cutting down a Shotgun Barrel

Armory » General Firearm Discussion

Warning

Confirm Action

About AR15.COM

Stay Connected

Newsletter

Contact Us