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Posted: 11/6/2001 10:58:20 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/6/2001 11:21:51 AM EDT by Cleatus]
I have a post ban upper that has a muzzle brake attached. It looks similar to the standard brake, with cut slots (not "fake ones") and is attached to what appears to be my threaded barrel. It looks like there is a lock washer in between-and also is pinned in the bottom-but not welded or soldered. It is also "oversize" so a bayo could not fit over it-it also has a closed end except for the bullet exit hole-not open like military types.

Is this legal to use on a post ban rifle? I have heard as long as it is pinned you are ok and as long as it is pinned and soldered over you are ok, and as long as it is pinned, but not a actual muzzle brake(no 'real' slots) you are ok...
Does anybody know what is ok? Ok?

I have looked arund on this site but have only found many different, not absolute opinions.

Does soldering the brake on affect the barrel having to heat it that high-and is it absolutely necessary if it is already pinned?

Thanks.
Link Posted: 11/6/2001 11:05:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/6/2001 11:02:04 AM EDT by Vinnie]
If this is a permanently attached Muzzle brake, then yes it is legal for your post ban. If it is a Flash Suppressor, then it is not. Something about the opening being a certain diameter to be used as a grenade launcher. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable can elaborate more. You may have better/quicker responses in the Legal section.

Edited because I noticed you said it wasn't welded. If I remember correctly from other posts, it must be welded. What I can't remember is the exact number of points or how much around it must be welded.
Link Posted: 11/6/2001 8:27:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/6/2001 8:22:20 PM EDT by CKA]
I too have thought about using the bird cage flash hider and JB welding a washer on the end of it and soldering the now "muzzle brake-(via the washer)" on the the barrel for a permanent muzzle break. This will give my A2 the look of the original flash hider (cuz it is the original turned into a muzzle brake). EGW (www.egw-guns.com/egw.htm under "parts") sells the same one for $50 as well as brownells (product number 296-201-017, www.brownells.com).

I can't help but to think that they are using the original A2 bird cage and fixing a washer on the end and marking up the price $40, though I could be wrong and would like to be corrected if someone knows some facts about the product. Or more specifically of why the BTAF considers EGW's brake a true brake and why my "homemade" brake would not be.

Cleatus, as for if pinning alone is ok I’m not sure (my opinion is that it is not permanent if it is just pinned, but I’m not 100%). I have also “heard” that welding it a minimum of half way around the brake is good enough for it to be considered permanent. And lastly that if it is soldered on it is considered permanent (get 1100 degree silver solder paste, clean the brake and barrel free of oil (use acetone, metal MUST be clean), smear the paste around the threads, thread the brake on and off a few times to assure the paste is in covering the threads, and heat with a MAPP torch until a dull red (1100 degrees) or until you see the paste turning to a wet appearance, oil after cooled to replace the oil that the acetone took away). I just soldered a brake on to my FAL last week.

If anyone can throw in their 2c on the subject I would like to know more of what is ok and what is not. Any feed back is appreciated.
Link Posted: 11/7/2001 6:04:12 AM EDT
Thanks, I was kinda worried about heating the bbl up that much without changing its properties or warp.
Link Posted: 11/7/2001 1:45:28 PM EDT
Also, if you were to solder on a brake, you might need to use a peel or crush washer to make sure the the brake fits the way it is meant to (holes that are suppose to be at 12:00 are at 12:00 and not at 8:00 or 9:00 when brake is tight) and also let it air cool. Good Luck
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