Originally Posted By Dano523:
Don't waste money on the drop in triggers for the Rugers; they still need to be fitted to get the most out of them.
Instead just have him take the rifle down to a smith to have the stock trigger worked over. I have no problems setting them up at 2lbs clean break with no creep, and neither should your local smith. Cost averages around $50 so have him check around and get references to the smiths work before letting him loose on the rifle (read he screw it up and you need a new trigger, ruger is going to make you send the whole rifle in to get a new trigger, and it will be set back at the factory 6lb break point*).
* Do send in a rifle to Ruger with any after market parts in place of the factory parts. The after market pulls will be pulled, replaced with factory parts, and you don't get the old parts back.
I think the above should read: "* Do NOT send in a rifle to Ruger..."
That is unfortunately true. Ruger has always been paranoid about liability issues caused by non-factory/non-factory installed/non factory-fitted parts used on rifles serviced by them.
The trick to dealing with this issue is to think ahead of them.
You should shoot your Ruger firearm a good bit to establish if there are any problems with it, and/or if it is in any way not up to snuff.
While you are doing that, go to Numrich and check out what parts for your gun they are able to sell you, and what parts are Ruger-only. You are primarily interested in parts prone to failure, such as extractors, ejectors, various springs, and firing pins, to name a few. There may be more or less, depending on the model of your gun. Purchase a couple of sets of the parts that you think you might need. Remember, this is a once-in-a-lifetime deal, so do it right.
You may even find that Numrich can supply all your wants. So much the better. Remember, you are only buying ahead on parts prone to failure/wear. I doubt any Ruger owner will ever need to replace the bolt in their deer rifle, but they may need to replace the extractor after a while.
Now that you have a baseline on your rifle, and all the parts that you can get from Numrich, send the thing back to Ruger, and have them sell you a sufficient number of Ruger-only fitted parts and correct any faults that you may have found.
My experience with Ruger is that they will go over the gun with a fine-tooth comb, and replace any and all out of spec parts for free. Sometimes these will be parts that seemed to fit and function just fine, but were no-go to their gunsmiths.
While doing this, they will also fit the parts that you purchased from them.
What you wind up with after this is a rifle that is in perfect, factory gunsmith-inspected working order with any and all faults corrected, as well as a lifetime's worth of spare parts for relatively little money.
Yes, it is a hassle, and rather anal of them.
BUT, having gone this route a couple of times, and having had them find and correct problems I was unaware of (they replaced a S.S. bolt on a Mini-14 for some reason, and the thing shot better afterwards; charge=$0), or did not think important, I can say that the whole thing was worthwhile in the end.
Once you get your Ruger back, and have fired it a few more time to verify function and no problems, THEN you can modify the thing. After all, you'll never have to send the thing back to them, will you?
In fact, if you are a little handy with guns, you may never have to send it to anybody for repairs, ever again.
When-and-if you sell/trade the rifle, the parts you have in hand plus the paperwork from Ruger showing the rifle has been gone over by them and the fitted parts you bought from them will be money in the bank.
I have used timney triggers in other rifles, and all worked well.
However, as said above, a little fitting/stoning of some surfaces is needed to wring out their full potential.