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Posted: 4/10/2002 5:27:28 PM EDT
Need help Silver Soldering a brake on a 14.5" bbl. I have the access to the tools, but have a few questions. How do you heat the bbl? Oxy Acetelene (sp) torch? Does this discolor the bbl at all? How hot does it need to be legal? Thanks....

-Jared
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 7:45:07 PM EDT
You need to heat the barrel evenly, all around the outside diameter with acetylene until the barrel is uniformly cherry red. Remove heat. Apply silver solder flux uniformly. Then with the silver solder in hand re-apply heat and solder till solder joint is uniform. I believe ATF requires a minimum melting temperature of 100 to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit. Force 44 solder and lead solder melt at too low a temperature to qualify. You may beed to refinish the barrel and the heat will probably cause a 'scale to form inside the bore. Good luck. JarheadGunner.
Link Posted: 4/10/2002 8:33:49 PM EDT
MAPP torch, silver solder paste (flux and solder mixed in syringe) with 1100+F melting point.

some discoloration of Parkerization. peel washer will make a mess, use crush washer or lock washer. re-park after.

search the BIY forum.
Link Posted: 4/11/2002 5:48:30 AM EDT
Complete direction (including a list of tools & the procedure) are in the How-To Do It section at the Maryland AR-15 Shooters Site......
Link Posted: 4/11/2002 1:50:15 PM EDT
Link Posted: 4/11/2002 3:03:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/11/2002 3:15:18 PM EDT by Scott_Jimenez]
the brakes i have installed in this method have gotten red from heat, but never the barrel. solder has flowed just fine.

if someone can provide actual data concerning the effects of this level of heat (well below dull red) on the barrel and any negative effects, i would love to see it.

Forest's link mentioned above:
communities.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/howtoattachamuzzlebrake.msnw

note: i concur with Rex's advice (less heat needed) and have employed it with success.

no need to heat the barrel directly.
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