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Posted: 3/28/2002 8:50:56 PM EDT
OK you 10/22 wizards:

I took apart my 10/22 a bit, trying to install an extended mag release. I also took the trigger group out. Now when I put everything back together, the bolt won't go all the way back.

The problem seems to be linked to the bolt stop, which doesn't seem to be working properly. After 90 minutes of screwing with it I can't figger the damn thing out.

Whattup?

TIA

CR
Link Posted: 3/28/2002 9:02:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/28/2002 9:07:49 PM EDT by Zardoz]
Are you sure the pin is going through the bolt stop, and not outside of it? The top pin, I mean, not the pivot pin for the mag release.
Link Posted: 3/28/2002 9:05:26 PM EDT
Yes, pin is going through bolt stop. Thanks for the try.

The damn thing seems to work OK when I hold it together by hand. Bolt goes back, holdopen works. When I secure the trigger group into the receiver with the two pins, then it *stops* working and the bolt will no longer go all the way back.

Link Posted: 3/28/2002 9:10:36 PM EDT
Hmmm.......Charging handle & bolt are installed right? Been awhile, but IIRC, putting the handle and the bolt back in the rifle is a real PITA.
Link Posted: 3/28/2002 9:20:11 PM EDT
I never took the bolt and handle out of it. At this rate, I never will!

I also think the bolt holdopen is working properly now that I have played with it some more.

There must be some damn trick to this reassembly like the strut in the Ruger .22 pistol. I have *that* trick down. This thing is a bitch, once back together I am never taking the MF apart again!
Link Posted: 3/28/2002 9:23:07 PM EDT
Glad it seems to be working properly, and I hope it keeps on doing so, man. One thing I hate about Rugers is that they're not exactly "user-friendly" when it comes time to field strip.
Link Posted: 3/28/2002 9:33:45 PM EDT
Well Zardoz, the bolt holdopen works, but only when the rifle is partially dismantled. The MF bolt STILL won't go all the way back when the MF rifle is put back together.

Still waiting for the "miracle solution."

Maybe to the equipment exchange:

"FS Ruger 10/22 in pieces, or not working."
Link Posted: 3/28/2002 10:05:05 PM EDT
Changed my mind. I don't think the bolt stop is working right after all.

Curse this POS.

Going to bed. Some brilliant person will no doubt post the solution while I slumber.
Link Posted: 3/29/2002 2:07:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/29/2002 2:21:22 PM EDT by jcb9901]
if you can pull bolt all the way back with tigger group out the only things that I can see that would cause bolt not to open is if the hammer spring is binding or bent spring guide rod possibly catching /hitting something in trigger housing hole for hammer spring,could be bolt hold open if it is not laying flat with respect to triggger housing top edge.make sure hammer moves freely and will push down level with the housing top egdes and that the ejector is flipped forward into slot of trigger housing.

here's link to exploded view of 10/22:www.ontargetguns.com/expviews.html
Link Posted: 3/29/2002 2:36:02 PM EDT

Link Posted: 3/29/2002 2:36:49 PM EDT
jcb, thank you for your suggestions.

I have tested the trigger group's function outside the rifle. The hammer, safety, bolt stop, etc. all seem to work normally. Also everything in the entire assembly lies flat with the top of the housing, meaning nothing is sticking up to stop the bolt's full range of movement from what I can see.

Beats the hell outta me.

Gonna go home from work and monkey with it some more. Spitting and swearing the whole time.


Link Posted: 3/29/2002 4:57:44 PM EDT
Yo, Ranger,

No problem. I installed hammer, sear, extended release, auto bolt, the works. So can you.

But I had a little secret. I some some damn instructions. I'm not sure where you are in the process so you'll have to figure it out yourself. Below is a set of directions that WORK. This is in the OLD forums at Rimfirecentral.

Don't despond. If worst comes to worst, you can drive up to Ben Avery and we'll figure it out. Or hey, I'll take that 10/22 off your hands for a reasonable price.


www.rimfirecentral.com/fdgroups/forum04.pl?read=6024

=====================================
The first step of the process is to remove pin (B-35) the ejector pin. This releases the bolt lock spring (B-42) on the right side of the hammer as you look toward the front. Next you remove pin (B-19) the hammer pivot pin. This allows you to remove the hammer (B-17), the two plastic bushings (B-43) and the bolt lock spring (B-42). After the hammer and associated parts are removed, the hammer strut and spring (B-18, B-44, B-45) can be removed. Removing the trigger, sear, disconnector (B-20, B-23, B-25) assembly is next. To simplify re-assembly of this group make a blind pin (I use a round toothpick) length equal to the inside width of the trigger guard (B-2). As you push out the trigger pivot pin (B-21) follow it with the blind pin pushing the blind pin in far enough so it is completely inside the trigger guard. The trigger/sear/disconnector can then be removed through the top of the trigger guard (B-2). The trigger plunger/plunger spring (B-39, B-40) can be removed and the replacement B-40 installed. The Trigger/sear/disconnector group can then be dropped back into the trigger guard with the trigger coming through the slot in the bottom. Position this assembly so the back of the trigger is holding B-39, B-40 in place and the holes are lined up to accept B-21, the trigger pivot pin. Push B-21 through the trigger guard, through the trigger which will push out the blind pin and secure the assembly. To replace the bolt release/mag release next push out the magazine latch pivot pin (the other B-35). This allows you to remove the bolt lock (B-41) and the mag release (B-34) B-41 comes out the top, to remove the mag release push in on B-36, magazine latch plunger, and the mag release will drop out. Put the new pieces where the old ones came from, replace b-35 and those are secure. Compress the hammer spring (B-44) and the keeper (B-45) will slide off. Remove all the rough edges on the round end of the hammer strut (B-18), I use 600 grip paper on a hard surface and rub all the rough surfaces of the strut nose on it until they are smooth. Put on the new spring, compress it and replace the keeper. Next assemble the hammer, shims, bushings and bolt lock spring (with the bent leg on the bottom)and lower into the trigger guard -it is a tight enough fit that it all stays together. Safety needs to be in the fire position so it allows the all the holes to line up. When in position replace B-19, the hammer pivot pin. Rotate the bolt lock spring forward so the bent leg engages the little slot on the horizontal portion of B-41, Bolt release. Insert the ejector pin (B-35) through the bolt release, ejector (B-8), compress the bolt lock spring below the pin and push the pin into the hole on the right side of the trigger guard.
==================================


James


Link Posted: 3/29/2002 7:06:32 PM EDT
It's fixed. You guys are gonna kill me.

About three weeks ago, I mounted a scope on the rifle. I didn't like the ugly gaping screw hole in the top of the receiver, so I screwed the extra scope mount base screw into the receiver. Guess what? It went too far in. I didn't notice that at the time.

Didn't take the rifle out to the range. Never pulled bolt back. Next improvement was yesterday when I tried to install the extended mag release. Pulled the bolt back far enough to ensure an empty chamber, but not all the way back. Tinkered with rifle, tried to put it back together. For the FIRST time, tried to pull the bolt all the way back. No go. Hence the problem.

Finally, I noticed the screw was not completely flush with the interior of the receiver. Backed it out, problem solved.

DOH!

Problem solved.
Thanks to all for your attention and assistance.
Link Posted: 3/29/2002 7:15:53 PM EDT
So that's what they mean by SCREWED UP.
LOL

It's always the small stuff. At least I learned a new trick. Thanks for your pain.
Glad it's working.
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