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Posted: 3/19/2002 1:17:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/19/2002 1:18:28 PM EDT by NORTEXED]
Does anyone know, is there any reason a good machinest couldn't "trim some weight from a Colt HBAR barrel? Maybe take it down to government profile. Also, does anyone have the specs on a "Government Profile" barrel? I need O.D. under the handguards and distance from sight base and barrel extension to start and finish taper. Thx. ED
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:21:09 PM EDT
No reason a good machinist couldn't do it. Kurt Wala (of Kurt's Kustom - see the Industry Forums) does this all the time. He did a great job turning my HBAR into a A2 profile (includeded refinishing). He charged $55 plus $10 shipping. Why take a chance? Here is a guy who knows what he is doing, and had done many of them for AR15.COMer's
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:26:54 PM EDT
Wouldn't it be easier and/or cheaper to just buy a government profile barrel ? And maybe sell your heavy barrel ?
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:32:17 PM EDT
Definately exploring all the options ;)
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:32:59 PM EDT
Sounds to me like a perfectly good excuse to build a 2nd upper. Then you could switch back and forth...
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:38:07 PM EDT

Originally Posted By USMC_LB:
Sounds to me like a perfectly good excuse to build a 2nd upper. Then you could switch back and forth...



Yes, I agree.
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:38:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Philadelphia_GunMan:
Wouldn't it be easier and/or cheaper to just buy a government profile barrel ? And maybe sell your heavy barrel ?



Well you compare:

$55 gets your current barrel turned down and refinished from Kurt.

$185 gets you a new A2 barrel. (if you need it POST-BAN compliant that will cost extra..)

Either way you need to send your upper (to Kurt or Bushmaster). So there is no difference in effort to get the job done. If you don't want to send your upper to BM you can get their barrel and do the work yourself (you will need AR specific tools - add $$ to the cost).

Now assume you get $100 for your old barrel (big assumption) it would still cost you $30 more to get a new barrel.

Any way you cut it - its cheaper & easier to send your HBAR to Kurt if you already have a rifle.
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 1:47:12 PM EDT
Wow. I didn't know barrels costed so much. I was just going under the assumption that sending a part out for custom work would cost more then a factory replacement.
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 3:16:16 PM EDT
Why don't you just get a fluted barrel? Or why don't you put the weight into the stock. I tried one Sunday a CMP DCM Bushmaster. With the weight in the stock it really does equal the balance. I was surprised it really didn't feel heavier. This way you save that HBAR.
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 3:51:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/19/2002 3:55:08 PM EDT by warlord]
I forget where I read it, but I HAVE HEARD that machining a barrel after it has been rifled is not recommended because it may cause distortions in the rifling.
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 5:05:05 PM EDT
I forgot about that. I was told by Bushmaster, they make fluted barrels in the white process. They also said turning a barrel after shot not good idea. I really am not sure and can't answer if true or not.
Link Posted: 3/19/2002 5:19:03 PM EDT
I was just looking for the absolute cheapest way to knock some weight off the HBAR to make it more carry friendly. When I bought it in 92', I didn't have another highpower rifle (job situation right before that time took care of those). I now have a excellant 400 + yard rifle, scoped, and would like to shave the HBAR down some for knocking around.
Link Posted: 3/20/2002 6:38:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By edpmedic:
I forgot about that. I was told by Bushmaster, they make fluted barrels in the white process. They also said turning a barrel after shot not good idea. I really am not sure and can't answer if true or not.



Well considering how many of us on AR15.com have had Kurt do this with no problems I wouldn't worry.

My rifle shoots just as well AFTER the procedure as it did before.

This is why I recommend Kurt, he KNOWS what he is doing and won't stress the barrel.
Link Posted: 3/20/2002 6:42:29 AM EDT

Originally Posted By edpmedic:
Why don't you just get a fluted barrel?


Costs would be comparable to buying a new A2 barel (i.e. MORE expensive) and it still weighs more than the A2.



Or why don't you put the weight into the stock. I tried one Sunday a CMP DCM Bushmaster. With the weight in the stock it really does equal the balance. I was surprised it really didn't feel heavier.



Yeah I want to see you carry that around all day at a class... Match rifles are heavy because the weight helps dampen movement and you are only holding the rifle for a short time.
Link Posted: 3/20/2002 10:18:42 AM EDT
Yea your right I never thought about having to carry it around all day. I was just amazed how it really balanced it out.
Link Posted: 3/20/2002 10:30:57 AM EDT
I may be wrong, but I think that a free float tube weighs less than the standard handguards due to the lighter weight "barrel nut". This may be another alternative to lighten your rifle, plus it will be more accurate.
Link Posted: 3/20/2002 12:12:35 PM EDT
Kurt responded quickly and courteously to my questions on this. He said it would be no problem to cut it to A2 profile, (and he says all barrels are profiled after their rifled. His best friend is a barrel maker and it's gospel. I also ask him if it could go M4 profils (cutting off the excess) and he said no due to location of gas port. I thought you might be able to get it down to 15" and permantly attach the flash suppressor, but I guess the gas port is still there at 15".
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