bigger than a 74 and you are gonna have a problem maybe. Buy the Outry clone on amazon it's same as my PTS Mtek, return it if it doesn't fit.

just got my Pro in this week, and plan on going the helmet mount route.
Got the MK2B in my cart along with an IRdark eyecup and an IRNightshade. Are the latter 2 worth it? Would the Mk1C be better if you are just going with one optic? I was thinking of using it lefty, that way i can use my Thermion on my rifle.

Would also like to know y'all's recommendations on powerpacks. Thanks!

The Mk1c is better for single use as it is lighter and less bulk.

The Anker with trickle charge is the ONLY model that works. 15,000 mah to 20k mah is good.

so which model Ankers are 15k or 20k? I can only find the 10k

they change every so often. A 10k will work, but may be a bit too light weight for most.

Just search amazon for "Anker trickle"

For me, I'm not a fan of Eyecups on the Aurora. Lion's Gear sent me the eyecup adapters for free when I got a Gen 1 MACHOS. Aurora's need to be run very close to the eye (just off my eyebrows, in my case, and I run a flat screen with even the OEM eyecup removed) to get edge to edge views. Once you add the adapter, and then the rubber cup - even fully jammed to your eye, its about 10mm further away - I was losing viewable real estate.

There is also the technical perspective: When an Aurora is set to EVF Off>Auto - it illuminates the Eye Sensor IR light...that thing is a beacon, and if you run it like that, you'll want an eyecup even if you lose real estate IF you care if other humans with NODs can see you. But if you set EVF Off>Never - it kills the Eye Sensor. With that off, and the Display Brightness>Low - Auroras don't create face splash at all (might even be true for Med or High Brightness, but I never checked - look in a mirror and you'll know). So no eyecup needed. Plus, you're more spatially aware, and with Binos (how I ran the Pros), I'm ALWAYS looking under and around, because your natural night vision is unhindered.  

But (there's always a 'But') - the current firmware on the Pro (others too?), still has a bug with the IR Eye Sensor: After a Power Off, it doesn't respect the setting when powered back on - and the IR Eye Sensor illuminates. I've reported this numerous times. To fix this, at every power on, you need to Long Press, go to EVF OFF>, cycle up to Auto and select, then go back and select Never - that kills the IR light for that session. Play around while looking in a mirror, and you'll see what each option looks like.

So as usual, what you care about, and how you want to use them, will dictate if you want an eyecup.

Contents check of original small rectangular white cardboard boxed SiOnyx Aurora Green-Black camera

If anyone knows, did this also come with a charging plug, or only a 2 foot USB cord?

If it's no trouble. please link a pic of the included USB cord and charging plug with brand markings that goes into the wall electrical outlet.

In the many of the unboxing videos on youtube I haven't seen the wall outlet plug yet, if it's included.






Thank you for your reply. I have both, still new, from what you revealed in the video, it  came as a great surprise and it made me want to sell the KVC.

To be sure I am understanding you correctly. If they both line up correctly for me. Since you are a RKI, is it your recommendation, professional and expert opinion, that I should sell the KVC and keep the airisoft branded Sotac gear SM-2 bridge for better reliability and longevity?

The KVC bridge is so nimble, I feel it can be crushed in my hand by accident or if I bump into something, while that SM-2 feels rock solid. I'm unsure how how well those SM-2 springs and fittings will last under the elements and outdoors, but you're the man to know best.

These little parts add up quickly. I could man up and buy the Wilcox branded bridge too, but I'd rather put that $ into the TNVC etc. real NV fund pot or thermal for now.

In one of TNVC's posts somewhere, I think it was Augiee or someone at TNVC who wrote that a dual PVS + Thermal bridged system would give one a head ache, was tested by military to be a fail, and not recommended. Now, it's good to hear, that for you, the Aurora + thermal seems to work.

I'm looking for a thermal unit now, perhaps one of those Asian made / assembled in USA units with higher resolution over the Breech, if that's the RKI recommendation, to get as close to a fused system, without spending 10k or 50kK for a FGE L3 AN/PSQ-36 at TNVC yet. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to spend that kind of $ if I had it.

I'll have to go over the threads and see what you guys are recommending for bridge mounted thermal.

1. The Auroras don't come with a wall plug - use anything you already have.
2. I'm not a professional expert, I just buy stuff that due diligence indicates might be good, try it out, and either keep or discard. The SM-2 is a keeper in my book. If it (or any gear) gets wet or dirty, I clean, dry and lube after use - bad habit from the military. To use the Auroras with the SM-2 Bridge, you need to do some hand file work on M24 FLIR Shoes*
3. I have zero experience with the KVC Bridge. One guy in here tried it, and I *think* it didn't allow the Auroras to move back far enough. * All these answers are in this thread somewhere - find a way to search (Google Site Search?).
4. Helmet Mounted Thermal is very user preference specific - some love it, some hate it, and some are in the middle. I'm in the middle. The more experience you have running just a Monocular, the better you will like it, I believe. It's not Fusion, and you still don't have depth perception - but if you love running just one PVS-14, adding the Thermal is just a bonus.
5. As far as I know, it's Breach, NOX18, or iRay Mx 19/25 for purpose built, consumer Helmet Mountable. Performance, Price, and Politics will be your guide.

Just got my Pro in.  The charging connector doesn't seem to go all the way in... Can anyone verify if this is normal?
I'd hate to send it back already BUT I'd rather do so if this is going to be a problem

Attached File

Assuming it is not upside down, I get about 1/8" to 1/4" of exposed silver on a run-of-the-mill, straight, Micro-USB Connector. My Sionyx Cables have never been used, still in the case. Is it charging?

Edit: That looks normal to me.

Roger that. It charges fine and all, just making sure.

Yep that's normal. Just checked mine out of curiosity.

new thing for you guys ...clips
Attached File

Attached File

Dude already took my money for some, plus a MK2B yesterday. I just need a couple more pieces and my poor man's wizard eyes setup will be complete.
ETA: And I already have shipping info!

That is handy. Neat!

Post deleted.

To pair up with a SiOnyx Aurora on KVC bridge, since opinions and experiences change over time, what are you guys who have used both currently recommending: Breech or InfiRay MH-25?

On my bad connection, will appreciate your latest recommendations for which economy paired thermal unit to pull the trigger on.

The 640 x 512 InfiRay MH-25 comes in at around $3300 + $350 iRay MH25 PVS-14 Eyepiece Assembly.

The 320 × 256 FLIR Breach PTQ136 was about $2100-2400 new, not sure of current lowest sale promo price is.


I haven't looked through one, only holding one briefly, the Breach felt almost mil spec rock solid.

Looking only at photos and videos online, the MH-25 appears to be a delicate plastic construction, similar the SiOnyx Aurora OG Green.

For higher resolution and extended range, I'd go with the MH-25 if it is as robust as the Breach and not just some cheap plastic camera housing.

It appears both can be serviced in the USA. For an extra $1000 difference, is there going to be that much noticeable benefit, when helmet mounted at the eyeball level, outdoors with weapon mounted ir aimer?


The ability to record is not that big of a deal. Since I can't stock MH25 batteries, I'll be using a USB power pack and they both have connections.


Next issue is, for safety reasons, I have to run this setup with at least a 800-900nM ir laser eye pro. I'm not going to be able to bring the viewfinders really close to my eyes, so they will likely be making contact with the lens, I'll have to put some really short soft rubber o ring covers to reduce the rattling noise signature.

In the past, if it does not steam and fog up, the EXOSHIELD seemed to be the lowest profile eyepro, but today LPL are nowhere to be found. Current Smith Optics and ESS fan googles don't have any readily available LPL to reduce steaming and fogging up.

The Infiray 384+ 640+ also look interesting. Budget is about 4K.

Pretty sure only one other guy in here has ever tried a KVC Bridge - see my previous answer to you.

Where are you finding an MH25 for $3300? UNV has it at $4500. Make sure you're not looking at the ML19.

When paired with an Aurora, you don't need the the PVS-14 Eyepiece. AAMOF, you'll probably want to be in 'Helmet Mode' on the iRay - which shrinks/centers the image slightly.

It's IP67 rated, how long will you be under water? (Only IP68 is better)  - the housing feels metal (tap on tooth) and an iRay doc stated Magnesium. A Retailer said it was plastic. There are Hog hunters beating the piss out of it, it's fine.

Breach, iRay, or Nox is the age old question - guys that have owned the Breach, and then moved on, don't think too highly of it in comparison. Tons of threads about all of this.

Good luck wearing eye-pro with Auroras'

Since you may be the only other guy who fused a dual bridge setup. Not to cut down on your piece of the pie action. But maybe we'd make a good sales and promo team and TNVC will hire me too, to fill and reach the odd ball out of the box spectrum of customers out there that you don't reach.

Hopefully I will not need the Mod-Armory pano/bridge and still be able to utilize the KVC bridge. I have a Sotac sm-2  too but it has not been tested yet.

I just need to know the correct Wilcox mounting hardware for each choice, it appears the Infiray 640+, MH-25 and ML-19 are the top three choices unless we find something better in this low cost fused system. The Infiray 640+ looks to be a jack of all trades.


This is not a door kicker setup so I have no big problems with the KVC Bridge for recreational use, and was surprised to read how many of you couldn't get it to work and get far enough back. Maybe that's because I wear LPL eyepro.

The Aurora hits my cheap Oakley SI M Frame 2.0 goggles. Naturally I see a smaller window because it is farther away from my eye. But without goggles, there may be IR laser strikes.

When I have to wear goggles or some other LPL eyeware, I was wondering if you guys think I don't need to get the iRay MH25 PVS-14 Eyepiece Assembly, if the InfiRay MH-25 becomes the choice.

Since I'm wearing eyepro, maybe the opinion and experience of others may indicate that these thermals will not work for me because they will sit too far forward from eye.

Unlike the circular peep show view finders on other NV, I like the rectangular view finder on the Aurora, because it gives a larger FOV even in this position farther away from the eye.

If I removed eyepro, I'd get an even larger image, at the risk of losing my eyes to laser strikes, so it is not worth the risk in my view. For that reason I'm hopeful a thermal with a similar rectangular viewfinder will work for me.


A word about the Oakley SI M Frame 2.0 goggles. They are absolute garbage for my arm chair application. They steam and fog up right away making visibility difficult. I'm not sure how they got a mil contract with lives at risk with this unit. Maybe I'm not treating the lens as often as I should. The foam seal has already delaminated and fallen apart! The lens has been scratched up with a salty finish that flakes off with finger nails. Maybe that's a protective coating. I don't think that's the result of high power IR lasers in the 800-900nM spectrum wearing it down.

I thought goggles would be more appropriate than LPL glasses, to better protect from side laser strikes. As mentioned earlier, unfortunately, I haven't been able to find LPL sold to the public in the 800-900nM spectrum for Smith Optics and ESS fan googles so I can switch over to this eyepro or something better that is low profile with fan that has LPL. What are you guys using?

TNVC really seemed to have a great product there in the past called the Revision Exoshield Ballistic Goggles that they said was really low profile.  i just couldn't find the minimum LPL lens spectrum I need in  their drop down menu to order a few sets.

Since you work for TNVC, if you find any in stock or back room, even used, with at least rated for 800-900nM LPL please put me in line for a few sets and IM/email. Unfortunately they don't have built in fans but maybe I can mod something and in any case they'll be better than the garbage I have now that are steaming and fogging up. Even if they steam and fog up, at least they will be more low profile bringing the image closer to my eyes than other options.

Some sellers had a good sale promo price on InfiRay ML-19 and MH25 but that Infiray 640+ seems to be the best jack of all trades if only the mounting hardware is compatible with KVC, etc.

I don't work for TNVC - you may be mixing threads, TNVC_Will is in another HMT thread, or it's TNVC_Augee.

The Iray PFalcon 640+ isn't available in the US, you'd have to see if Falcon Claw (exclusive?) would ship it to you, and there were no Custom's problems (If you are in the USA). Looks like a Nox18 Competitor.

My bad, confusing threads, users, etc., all this time I mistakenly thought you were NITEWALKER   https://youtu.be/aiJgIdbXh9A?t=19   who has indicated he works for TNVC. so I wouldn't have bothered you with so many questions and even linked NITEWALKER videos to you in some of my questions because I thought it was all part of your cs job to assist people, please excuse the misunderstanding. That's what I get for multi tasking busy.

Yes, I can see to some extent, so you are doing something wrong, but don't take this as pro advice. Close the front cap and go from there.

Pro version. Headmounted KAC bridge, wearing defunct lens laser eyepro, while still in default settings, on pic and vid mode, twilight and night , the older T2 level 4 NV setting seems to work best. 2-3 can be seen easily too but 4 is best here. If transitioning from dark to light repeatedly, the T2 will wash out very easily under white backgrounds. Preference is to keep front cap closed. As an arm chair commando, don't ask me to bet life to it or run against the "pro's" at backwoods ranges and win, as often, without cheating.

We all wish we could afford real deal NV from the nice vendors here, but this is life and we must try to do the best with our available resources. For the ill trained, no to negative income bracket without disposable income, I hate to think the unthinkable, of how much more effective, a sub $4000 dreaded "legacy" ATN PVS15 under daylight and nighttime lit urban conditions, versus the ideal single tube wp pvs14 for $5000+ with the most perfect specs from a reputable vendor, with the addition of a jerry c/ce5, for a sub $10000 setup, would be in an urban setting with many bright light threats, even with auto gating and not burning your only set of tubes. That's for the pro's to answer and for people like us to dream about.

Now I have something for my neighborhood night watch

A helmet should show up today, which will be the final piece I need to finish my budget LARPing setup.

Got a Pro inbound.
Now have to get @gaspain mount and the other items from his list (counterweight rig, battery pack and cables, stuff and things), and then figure out a brain bucket for my Shrekead. I think I am going to be right at the top end for the Lancer helmet.

I think Team Wendy or Ops core has larger models. The Outry (Mtek Flux) on amazon is decent, but not sure about large heads in it. I no longer recommend Lancer, just better stuff out there now.

From what I saw on the Amazon info for the Outry it looks like I should have room in there. Got one coming tomorrow morning that I will try out.
Then I need to figure out if I want to get your one or two tube mount. I just have the one Pro coming right now, but I am thinking I will go to duals in the future and will just use one side for now.
Once all that is done, then I'll put together the other items. Like the clips, probably grab some of those too.

@scoobysmak-
What cover are you using?
Also, does anybody know of a suspension upgrade or replacement for the MTEK/Outry? The actual helmet and pads fit great, but the suspension straps (mainly the rear ones) are just a little too short.

If I'm not mistaken, the new firmware update now has the EFV "Never" setting persistent.

Easy to check - If you've applied the update already and have that setting activated ("Never"), turn it on standing in front of a mirror (in the dark, obviously). If you see no giant IR glow around your face - they fixed it. Auroras emit zero "face splash" with that sensor light off.

I’ll check that tonight. Didn’t have a lot of time last night to go through everything, just noticed the setting was persistent through power cycles.
My Kiloohm Mk2 comes in today, so hopefully I have more time to mount everything up and test it tonight.
ETA got a break so I checked it in the bathroom. The setting itself continues to show as selected, however the light is still on and you have to cycle through the menu still to turn it off.

Yup, it always stayed selected - just doesn't "obey".

Does it have an IR illuminator built in? Pics say no.

There's no IR Illuminator built into the Aurora, if that's what your asking. Use any IR light you want - since it "sees" up to 1100nm, even 940nm ones reach out there (most buy the $20 Fandy, which is focusable). Here's a Fandy at ~300yds, next to a MAWL:

NL3-ish, clear overhead with stars and thumbnail moon. Far treeline is about 250Y.

Probably closer to NL4 in shadow. Pic has more noise, video clip is more clear at 30fps, HDR on.

Fence in foreground is in overhang/tree canopy, looking across field NL3 to far side about 200Y

ETA:
Screengrabs from video of the above.

Yea, you'll notice that the onboard capture always looks worse than what you are seeing (with video being a bit better than stills, as seen above) in marginal conditions. Camera nerds can probably say why that is - probably has something to do with looking at the media on a 2"x1" screen vs a 15" Laptop or 55" TV screen, LOL. I've found the best way to try to relay what you are seeing - is the old school "camera up to the view finder" trick.

I work with 1310nm SFP fiber modules at work, for shits and gigs I tried my aurora pro to see if it could pick up that wavelength, and it did!

Seriously? Damn, pretty cool. Core Survival used to make a 1550nm Strobe (they still might) - I'd like to check one of those out.

If you are using the same cheap one, the Fandy 940nm Model 501IR Beam distance is listed as 20-50 meters

Which light is the Fandy, right of screen or left, that you are getting ~300yds? Sorry I do not have a Fandy or MAWL





Guys  To light up the Sionyx 940nm+ as of today, what's the best lowest footprint profile picatinny rail mount that is recommended for the Fandy 501IR light? Can you link it please.

I'm looking for something with a small low profile footprint. On one setup I have 3-4 slots and the other maybe 5 slots of rail space to work with.

Mounted at 3 o'clock, the garbage picatinny rail base that comes in the Sionyx Pro light kit is too big and unusable, it interferes with laser mounted at 12 o'clock.

I need a lower profile rail mount base. I also wouldn't mind if the light at 3 o'clock goes out a bit an inch or two or more to clear the laser at 12 o'clock.

With the impressive results you are all posting, I wish I had an adjustable 1100-1310nm Fandy light to be more discreet.

The Fandy is on the left - they produce a square beam when focused down for long range.

Any 1" Picatinny Clamp/Scope Ring should work - I use GG&G as they are small (but pricey). But, there is no pressure pad for them (I think someone posted a pad that *might* work, but you'd have to search and try it).

Worrying about the Nanometer of your Illuminator is a fools errand - there are more Auroras out there, than Gen 3 (they're way cheaper) - so other Auroras can see you.

I can't decipher all the rail mount position stuff, sorry.

I’ve got an aurora pro coming tomorrow to compliment my RNVGs with the primary use being as a camera; but would love to helmet it mount it as a loaner set as well. Does anyone have a current STL for a dovetail mount I can print? I looked back a few days to no avail, but figured it couldn’t hurt to ask.

I have a stl, but haven't successfully printed it yet. I have some petg on the way to try again. The abs was kicking my ass.

in PETG



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAA_uCtLZT8

The stl I have is a bridge for two Sionyx. It uses a Wilcox actual dovetail, keeping the hardest loaded part in aluminum and the large bridge is printed.

I’m looking for 100% printed; with a lanyard for backup if the print dies. Guess I need to quit being a baby and fire up autocad… thanks!

Looking for the cliff notes on this long thread.  Are these Sionyx units legit or are they junk?

Are they worth mounting to a helmet?  It seems like they are more geared towards airsoft etc.

Oh if you ask that, there will be varying opinions like anything else. So answers in order, yes, yes, maybe. This thread isn't 111 pages long because they are irrelevant.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Z7Z2HSL?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

That switch does work.  I am pretty sure the guts could be taken out with snapring pliers and put into the Uniquefire switch assembly, making it an even more universal option.  The threaded retaining ring inside the Uniquefire is the same threads as the body on the Fandyfire.