hello, here's some pics of my diy bino.

it is quite far from finished at this moment.

fired it up tonight, got first peek through it.

collimation does not seem to be a problem.

Cool.

Nice!

Got anything to add? Like how you did it, what lenses, what tubes, how you macined it?

Hatti, I always admire your work and machine skills. Do you considered making dual adapter like this for pvs14 instead of shelf construction like ANVIS?

neat design. it looks so much prettier in aluminum instead of delrin or some type of polymer.

thanks guys.

a bit more detailed info.
objective lenses  - AVS-6
eyepieces  - PVS-5
tubes - f9800 - slim anvis.



i tried to keep things as simple as possible.
the bridge is basically a dovetail with one side hinged and spring loaded - it allows for ID adjustment and quick attaching and detaching
bino halves.





as i have only 45mm round stock aluminum, i had to make dovetail plates and housings separate - not good, but considering round stock aluminum prices, it is a compromise.

an o ring, hopefully, will make this thing somewhat weather resistant.





now about my tools..
my old lathe



little mod - an inverter driven small 3 phase motor instead of tool post - very useful for radial milling and drilling.



and same motor can turn my little horizontal shaft milling machine into a vertical shaft one, which can do a lot more.



inverter

thank you Trzmiel.
did you mean a bridge for two PVS-14?

When I start working on my PVS-5 equipped with Photonis 43mm tubes I decided to make two separate monoculars. I've 3d printed housings and add battery compartment - nothing fancy. Then to make bino setup I thought about scissors like dual PVS adapter something like this:

thanks for clarification.
only downside with that setup, IMO,  would be messing with two power switches,

with my tools and materials it is easier to make square and linear things, so i decided to do it AVS style.



do you have your own printer or use 3d printing service?

this is kind of relevant to me, because i cannot gear my lathe for that AVS objective lens helicoid thread pitch,
so i guess, i will have to get focusing nut 3d printed.

Hatti, yes I have two of them :) if you need any help just send me pm.

You're giving me ideas.

I may have to give this a shot at some point.

Great job so far!

very nice of you, thanks!
though first i must remember how to write a 3d object describing script in OpenSCAD.

meanwhile i attached the bino to rhino mount and nightcap.
first impressions of wearing head mounted bino are not bad.
i really enjoyed star gazing.





next thing to do is to make some battery box.
would it be a good idea to make it really heavy, so it would serve also as counter weight?

Hey nice project. I always like seeing things like this. I do alot of builds using parys from differebt devices and manufacture special adapters to make everything fit together properly. Ite a fun way of staying creative and working the brain when building the same device kits day in and day out causes the brain to go into sn autopilot mode from the repetative grind. Doing these kind of projects is a great way to get out of that stagnant mindset that performing redundant tasks can bring about. I am pleased to see a cool project that is the result of another pesons creative mind. Good work.

One thing i wanted to say is that the pvs-5 eyepieces arent able to be collimated due to the fact that they dont have an offset lens element like the ANVIS 6/9 and PVS-14 style oculars do. Only oculars with an offset element can be collimated from what ive come to understand.

thank you for kind words, DTS.

i did not know about that collimation method using eyepieces.
i thought it was bridge function.

fortunately, either my brain is not picky in this regard or i was lucky to make everything parallel,
the images blend in one circle nicely.

now may i ask some questions??

AVS-6 and PVS-7A objective lenses look very similar in pictures.
any chance they are interchangeable?

and will the PVS-7 (without minus blue filter) lenses be advantageous over AVS-6 ones in dark rural environment where there is no
light pollution to worry about?

Your welcome. Again nice work.

collimation of a unit with pvs14 or anvis style oculars is done by rotating the entire ocular on both sides unti the ofset elements are positioned in such a way that the eylanes are aligned as closely as possible. On a pvs-5 the oculars do not have an offset element so collimation is not achieved by rotating the eyepieces. I have to do a bit more reasearch to find out for sure but i am thinking that the pvs-5 monocular pods were already well in alignment due to the way they were both secured into the metal frame structure inside the facemask, it is not really possible to move the monocular pods in a pvs-5 very much independently of one another so throwing off the alignment of the eyelanes is a bit difficult actually as they are secured in such a way that they must move in tandem in the same way so they will always be closely aligned if that makes sense. You cant realy move one pod around without the other one doing the same thing and ending up with both pods staying in alignment. There will be a small amount of play in any device of course, but at least in case of the pvs-5 it doesnt seen to make a whole lot of difference.

The occulars on the pvs-7 and avs-6 are not interchangeable no. They are designed very differently in the way theyinstal onto their respective units. The avs-6 oculars thread on as one piece and lock in place with a locking ring. Pvs-7 oculars are mated with the beam directing mirror assembly through the openings in the back plate and a threaded ring is threaded onto the rear of the eyepiece After the diopter ring is installed and the threaded ring is the stop for the diopter ring so it doesnt come off the eyepiece assembly by not sllowing it to be adjusted past a certain point. Hopefully that makes sense.

ETA: also after yhinking about it for a bit, tge pvs-5 are probably most likely collimated in a similar way as binos that use mum-14 style mono pods and oculars in that the tube needs to be shimmed, usually with tape until the eyepieces and tge tube outputs are aligned tge same in each pod. Ive separated a ton of  9916 tubes from the pvs-5 mono housings abd there us always tape left stuck on tge outer boot of the tube and sometimes on the inside surfaces of the mono pods. I never even thought about it until now but that seems to me the most likely reason that that tape is always there and it must be the purpose for it. I never eveb thought about that until just now realizing it after thinking it through a while. Haha i like learning things like that. Its like funny that you have seen sometging so many times and then one day just realize what it is for. Its just funny when it hits you all of a sudden and your just like, "WOW! How did i miss that with all the experiences i have had involving that particular thing?!?!?".  Thats crazy. Haha

Nice work so far - I prefer CAD and CNC machines - but have a tremendous amount of respect for guys who can make interesting parts using manual machines.

I look forward to seeing how this setup evolves and your final thoughts.

Hatti, great improvisation of your various machine tools.

As well as nice machining.

I particularly like you using your lathe chuck as an indexing head.  Where did you find the degree calibrated tape [home made?] and how do you lock the spindle -by engaging a gear set?

Re your question of the PVS-5 collimation provision, I have a pair I've conv to Gen 3 and I can look if you can be specific what I need to look for.

Bumping an interesting thread...