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Posted: 12/30/2017 11:48:45 AM EDT
[#1]
Will a front sight post on a M4 carbine obstruct the thermal view? Or the sight picture through the scope? Thanks
Edit- Tom with nightgoogles already answered it pages back. Edit no. 2 - You can use this thermal scope with a front sight post. |
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Posted: 1/3/2018 2:16:39 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Will a front sight post on a M4 carbine obstruct the thermal view? Or the sight picture through the scope? Thanks Edit- Tom with nightgoogles already answered it pages back. Yes I can. Thanks |
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Posted: 1/3/2018 2:21:51 PM EDT
[#3]
I'm pleased with the unit.
It's been very effective for me and the image is great. The FOV is pretty narrow, but for what it is and the price...I think it's a steal. |
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Posted: 1/3/2018 2:32:00 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryEdit - In your other two videos Wi Yeti - same rifle or different ones? thanks |
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Posted: 1/3/2018 5:29:17 PM EDT
[#5]
I'm using mine on a 10.5" rifle with A2 front sight. There is no sign of the post anywhere in the fov.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 1/4/2018 9:05:59 PM EDT
[#6]
What setting are yall using for the pts223. Someone said earlier that they were playing with gain and contrast, what did you come up with?
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Posted: 1/4/2018 10:16:51 PM EDT
[#7]
Has anyone tried mounting a dovetail mount to the scope and making a helmet mounted monocle?
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Posted: 1/5/2018 1:56:48 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What setting are yall using for the pts223. Someone said earlier that they were playing with gain and contrast, what did you come up with? Also, I was having some trouble with a spot and bad pixel cluster that were not visible in warmer conditions. I used the FLIR Boson App to connect to the PS233 and switch the core to External FFC mode (similar to how the Trijicon thermals operate). By NUC'ing on the sky or other uniform cold source, the pattern noise really improved, and the spot and bad cluster were no longer visible. The whole NUC process was more cumbersome though. First need to recognize the unit needs to FFC, then find a flat source, then use up and down buttons to initiate the NUC. Lens cap seemed to work ok, better than my hand but not as good as the clear sky (tough to find in the forest). Word of warning: Anyone who attempts to modify their Boson settings directly runs the risk of screwing up the scope. Don't mess with any settings that you don't fully understand. I have no idea if Armasight/FLIR tech support has a recovery path for these types of user-induced field failures. |
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Posted: 1/5/2018 4:12:34 PM EDT
[#9]
Just got my PTS233 in the mail. It's my first thermal, so this may be a stupid question. Upon turning it on, for a few minutes it clicks every few seconds like a shutter on a camera, and the image skips. Is this like a warming up/calibration process?
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Posted: 1/5/2018 4:42:28 PM EDT
[#10]
Yup, that is normal with an automatic Flat Field Correction bolometer, instrument is resetting all the thermoresistors back to equality as they heat up and cool off for a better view.
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Posted: 1/5/2018 6:57:12 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks sbmarmam I'll try those out. I had lowered my gain to 60 to 80 to help keep the trees from lighting up in outdoor alert, but haven't messed with anything else. Tell me more about AGC speed and how changing it effects things?
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Posted: 1/6/2018 6:58:01 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: damn. looks like the post will affect it but still can be used.- thank you sir. Edit - In your other two videos Wi Yeti - same rifle or different ones? thanks |
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Posted: 1/6/2018 7:12:42 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone tried mounting a dovetail mount to the scope and making a helmet mounted monocle? |
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Posted: 1/7/2018 11:52:27 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Isn't 1.44lbs+ pretty heavy for someone's neck? |
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Posted: 1/7/2018 2:57:07 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Isn't 1.44lbs+ pretty heavy for someone's neck? Now, if the q14 ever comes out then this wont be a problem... |
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Posted: 1/7/2018 8:27:13 PM EDT
[#16]
Edit: nvm
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Posted: 1/8/2018 12:44:25 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks sbmarmam I'll try those out. I had lowered my gain to 60 to 80 to help keep the trees from lighting up in outdoor alert, but haven't messed with anything else. Tell me more about AGC speed and how changing it effects things? AGC Speed - parameter that allows the user to control the refresh rate of Automatic Gain Control (AGC). The adjustment range is from 0 to 200 with a default value of 85 - range is actually 0 - 100. Basically, AGC Speed controls how quickly the AGC (brightness, contrast, etc.) responds to changes in the scene. If a bright object enters the filed of view, the image characteristics will change. The rate of change depends on the AGC Speed. A lower number causes the system to respond faster. If you'd prefer a more advanced definition, look at the Boson spec under Dampening Factor: The AGC algorithm computes the optimum transfer function for each new frame of incoming data. However, it is not always beneficial to allow the applied transfer function to change rapidly. Consider when a mid-sized hot object enters an otherwise bland scene. The new object will be allocated brighter grayshades, resulting in the background migrating towards darker shades. If this transition happens suddenly from one frame to the next, it can be disconcerting to a viewer, appearing as an image flash. Boson provides a temporal filter which can mitigate against a sudden flash by limiting how quickly the AGC can react to a change in scene conditions. A lower value of the Dampening Factor parameter allows the algorithm to react quicker. A value of 0% results in no filtering at all, and a value of 100% causes the AGC transfer function to stops updating altogether. The factory-default value is 85% |
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Posted: 1/8/2018 1:44:24 PM EDT
[#18]
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Posted: 1/8/2018 5:38:19 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote History
How long until they start shipping? |
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Posted: 1/8/2018 6:30:01 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks good!
How long until they start shipping? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks good!
How long until they start shipping? |
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Posted: 1/8/2018 11:54:58 PM EDT
[#21]
I'll buy one of the TNVC ones at some point in the future, but in the meantime I rigged up a similar thing for about $25. Betting theirs has better battery life though, and it definitely looks better. Mine looks a little ghetto.
I love that this optic can be powered by a battery pack like that. |
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Posted: 1/9/2018 11:55:15 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote History |
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Posted: 1/9/2018 3:44:23 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shipping? When did they start selling? I've been waiting to order one. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Looks good!
How long until they start shipping?  The custom cables for the PTS233 are complete as well.
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Posted: 1/10/2018 1:43:34 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryI am thinking the rear sight has to go in order for the thermal to fit. Anyone know? Oh and I will be buying one of the battery packs from TNVC for sure! Edit - what is the battery life bumped up to with it (fingers crossed it is over 8 hours?!) |
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Posted: 1/10/2018 2:33:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We will be releasing right after Shot Show. The last of the cradles are coming off the molds. The custom cables for the PTS233 are complete as well.Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Looks good!
How long until they start shipping? The custom cables for the PTS233 are complete as well. |
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Posted: 1/10/2018 3:32:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are the cables a custom length or does it need a custom connector? It will charge from standard USB C correct? |
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Posted: 1/10/2018 7:24:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The battery pack itself is an off-the-shelf unit (Anker Astro) and comes with a recharging cable. The recharge cable is USB/Micro USB (The same as the a Samsung phone). So, you can plug the battery into your laptop or an AC/USB wall outlet adapter. We also include a cable that is used between the Battery and the scope. This is a custom 7" cable that is USB/USB-C. Since the PTS scope uses a USB-C port, our cable will go from the battery into the port. It's a custom cable with a right angle connection on the USB-C. This keeps the connection low profile so it won't snag and break in the field. |
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Posted: 1/10/2018 8:09:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The battery pack itself is an off-the-shelf unit (Anker Astro) and comes with a recharging cable. The recharge cable is USB/Micro USB (The same as the a Samsung phone). So, you can plug the battery into your laptop or an AC/USB wall outlet adapter. We also include a cable that is used between the Battery and the scope. This is a custom 7" cable that is USB/USB-C. Since the PTS scope uses a USB-C port, our cable will go from the battery into the port. It's a custom cable with a right angle connection on the USB-C. This keeps the connection low profile so it won't snag and break in the field.
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Posted: 1/11/2018 11:32:57 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not sure if you guys have a disclosure agreement - but - Can you tell us the expected battery life increase? Will it run in conjunction with the 123 batteries? meaning say the batteries are in will they run first and then the external pack after the batteries run out? Thanks Clasky! With no CR123 batteries, and only the battery pack plugged in, the runtime at room temperature is approx 13.5 hours continuous. |
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Posted: 1/11/2018 1:03:51 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Working on the in-conjunction battery life test right now. With no CR123 batteries, and only the battery pack plugged in, the runtime at room temperature is approx 13.5 hours continuous. |
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Posted: 1/11/2018 1:07:05 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 13.5 hours?!?!! Aaaaannnnnnd you just SOLD one! thanks man.  We will be shipping them a few weeks after SHOT Show
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Posted: 1/11/2018 6:12:44 PM EDT
[#32]
you guys need to make a rail mounted battery for the IR Hunter.
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Posted: 1/11/2018 7:06:02 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you guys need to make a rail mounted battery for the IR Hunter. |
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Posted: 1/11/2018 7:08:10 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Our system can mount directly to a handguard. We are examining the most cost effective method to provide a cable for Trijicon EO products |
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Posted: 1/11/2018 8:15:10 PM EDT
[#35]
I am curious how it works when it's got batteries installed but is also powered through the USB. Not sure if it drains the USB and then starts on the batteries, or vice versa. I'll have to try it to see whether the USB or battery gets used first. IMHO, ideally it would run the USB dry before starting on the batteries. Fantastic unit though, I've been having a blast with it.
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Posted: 1/11/2018 8:58:41 PM EDT
[#36]
Did some testing with my unit tonight, using the Anker PowerCore 10000, because its what I have on hand. Given that TNVC is using an off-the-shelf Anker, I expect these results will mimic using their product, but I could be wrong.
Observations: • When there are good CR123s in the scope, the scope defaults to using them instead of the USB power • When the 123s die, or are removed immediately by unscrewing the cap, the scope switches to USB power effortlessly and without shutting down (I only tested this for a timespan of about a minute. It's still possible that running the scope for 4 hours on 123s could result in the Anker going into a sleep mode that I haven't discovered) • When the scope is running on the Anker, and 123s are inserted, it switches to the 123s immediately and with no hiccups |
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Posted: 1/11/2018 9:13:07 PM EDT
[#37]
Does the battery icon change to show whether it's being powered by usb or batteries? I thought i'd looked for that and didn't see a difference, but may be wrong.
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Posted: 1/11/2018 9:53:31 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does the battery icon change to show whether it's being powered by usb or batteries? I thought i'd looked for that and didn't see a difference, but may be wrong.
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Posted: 1/11/2018 11:20:29 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No difference. On my scope, switching between a set of brand new CR123s and a fully-charged Anker results in a quick blip of the battery icon. It drops down to the red setting, and then in a few quick seconds changes again to fully-charged green. But if the question is whether the icon tells you what power source it's metering, that answer is no. |
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Posted: 1/12/2018 9:36:11 AM EDT
[#40]
Anyone in The Woodlands/Conroe/Spring, TX area want to meet up and let me take a gander through their device? This is most likely the device I’ll end up acquiring and I’d like to see what I’m putting my $ into before I Spring for it.
Thanks |
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Posted: 1/13/2018 2:54:42 PM EDT
[#41]
I sighted mine in last week in zero degree temperatures in the middle of the day. I shot an aluminum can that's heat signature made it easy to see. It was about 80 yards and I was tagging it with ease, every shot. The distance was about 80 yards, I'm guessing. Ultimately, I'll dial it in at 50 to better be able to predict the impact point at 100 and 200.
This thing is sweet! I can't wait to smoke a yote or hog with it! It is everything I'd hoped it would be. |
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Posted: 1/15/2018 1:26:07 AM EDT
[#42]
I guess this question is for TNVC or anybody that might be knowledgeable enough to throw out an opinion. My buddy and I are interested in this scope for coyote hunting. The agency I work for has a FLIR ThermoVision Scout handheld that we received new in 2004, looks like it was built in '03. I've spent some time with it and it is my only reference as far a thermal goes. Here are some of the specs from the manual:
12 degree lens, I think it's 35mm but could be 50, I didn't measure it. Detector type: 160x120 focal plane array uncooled microbolometer Spectral range: 7.5-13 um The Scout can detect deer out to 400+ yards easily I would guess, although you can't ID them as deer. 150-200 yards it is fairly obvious they are deer and if it was a weapons scope you could probably shoot them. It easily detected a building at a mile tonight (hot hog confinement). The thing is clunky to operate and not that impressive as far as clarity goes with things like trees etc. The NUC (I think that is what it is) is loud and takes a second or two to perform. Overall it works but it is frustrating to use. So I'm assuming this 14 year old handheld is ancient, technology wise, but how would it compare overall to the PTS233? The PTS has a much smaller 19mm lens. I'm not sure how lens size effects thermal, is it clarity, FOV, or magnification? Back in '04 the Scout was said to be over $10K (we got it on a grant) so I'm wondering how a $2K weapons sight compares in 2017? |
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Posted: 1/15/2018 10:29:12 AM EDT
[#43]
The PTS233 is a good product, but it wouldn't make my Top 5 choices for a coyote gun. At least where I hunt, coyote shots are often long pokes. The 19mm 320 just isn't designed for that kind of work. You need more germanium.
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Posted: 1/15/2018 12:18:36 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The PTS233 is a good product, but it wouldn't make my Top 5 choices for a coyote gun. At least where I hunt, coyote shots are often long pokes. The 19mm 320 just isn't designed for that kind of work. You need more germanium. I just learned that an acquaintance has a couple ATN Thor 3x18x50mm scopes that I could probably test. How would those compare to the PTS233? |
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Posted: 1/15/2018 12:53:09 PM EDT
[#45]
Scout was never released with a 50mm lens. FLIR sold a very small quantity of 160x120 Scout units, but chances are you have a PS24 which is a 240x180 or a PS32 320x240. You really can't compare prices of today's units with ones 10-15 years ago. I actually have one of the original weapon mountable ThermoSight units with the Omega/UL3 160x120 core and 50mm lens. Back when it was initially released, MSRP was something like $10K. Not worth 1/100th of that price in today's market.
With the same 19mm lens, a 640 will give you more field of view but not more magnification. It will allow you to utilize a higher digital zoom factor though. The PTS line is coming out with larger focal length options (50, 75) so it might be worthwhile to wait for them to be released. |
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Posted: 1/15/2018 2:37:56 PM EDT
[#46]
I’ve shot hogs and coyotes out 225 yards with mine with the 19mm lens at 2X Power, not a problem.
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Posted: 1/15/2018 2:42:43 PM EDT
[#47]
I wouldn't hesitate to shoot a hog or coyote at 200 yards with my pts233.
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Posted: 1/15/2018 3:31:36 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Scout was never released with a 50mm lens. FLIR sold a very small quantity of 160x120 Scout units, but chances are you have a PS24 which is a 240x180 or a PS32 320x240. You really can't compare prices of today's units with ones 10-15 years ago. I actually have one of the original weapon mountable ThermoSight units with the Omega/UL3 160x120 core and 50mm lens. Back when it was initially released, MSRP was something like $10K. Not worth 1/100th of that price in today's market. With the same 19mm lens, a 640 will give you more field of view but not more magnification. It will allow you to utilize a higher digital zoom factor though. The PTS line is coming out with larger focal length options (50, 75) so it might be worthwhile to wait for them to be released. |
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Posted: 1/15/2018 3:43:42 PM EDT
[#49]
Detection would be better. Resolution would be better. Refresh rate difference is large. It'd generally be an overall way more capable optic than a 160x120 Flir Scout.
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Posted: 1/15/2018 4:22:38 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Detection would be better. Resolution would be better. Refresh rate difference is large. It'd generally be an overall way more capable optic than a 160x120 Flir Scout. |
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