I want a K98 Edit: I bought one. **10/20 New Question Pg2.** - Page 2

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - I want a K98 Edit: I bought one. **10/20 New Question Pg2.** (Page 2 of 2)

Posted: 6/1/2019 8:41:42 PM EDT

[#1]

I found a bolt that is near mint for 117 shipped. That seems to be the best price I can find. Anyone else have a source before I Fo?

Posted: 6/1/2019 9:03:19 PM EDT

[#2]

Also, if anyone has a recommendation for a sling and cleaning rod I would appreciate it..

Posted: 6/1/2019 9:17:43 PM EDT

[#3]

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Quoted:
Also, if anyone has a recommendation for a sling and cleaning rod I would appreciate it..

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https://www.ima-usa.com/

Posted: 6/1/2019 9:35:33 PM EDT

[#4]

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https://www.ima-usa.com/

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Also, if anyone has a recommendation for a sling and cleaning rod I would appreciate it..

https://www.ima-usa.com/

Thanks

Posted: 6/1/2019 9:48:31 PM EDT

[#5]

Its showing 2 lengths of cleaning rods. 10" and 12.5". What would be correct?

Posted: 6/1/2019 10:30:35 PM EDT

[#6]

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Its showing 2 lengths of cleaning rods. 10" and 12.5". What would be correct?

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Depends on the rifles stock, most late war are 12.5".
General rule is:
If the nut (that accepts the rod) is only visible from inside the stock & attached from the channel, then 12.5".
If the nut is visible on the outside of the stock under the rear band , then 10"...

An alternate way is to take a wire (cloths hanger) and measure the distance from the bottom of the hole to the center of the front sight band. That will get you a close measurement.

What are you looking for in a sling? Original, reproduction, other? I have an "other" that I can send you. Its an Israeli K98 sling with a repro keeper. Israelis are pretty close to original german k98s and are often mistaken for one. Difference is the brass hardware. The leather is nicely aged like a WWII German.

Posted: 6/1/2019 10:40:30 PM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:
Depends on the rifles stock, most late war are 12.5".
General rule is:
If the nut (that accepts the rod) is only visible from inside the stock & attached from the channel, then 12.5".
If the nut is visible on the outside of the stock under the rear band , then 10"...

An alternate way is to take a wire (cloths hanger) and measure the distance from the bottom of the hole to the center of the front sight band. That will get you a close measurement.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Its showing 2 lengths of cleaning rods. 10" and 12.5". What would be correct?

Depends on the rifles stock, most late war are 12.5".
General rule is:
If the nut (that accepts the rod) is only visible from inside the stock & attached from the channel, then 12.5".
If the nut is visible on the outside of the stock under the rear band , then 10"...

An alternate way is to take a wire (cloths hanger) and measure the distance from the bottom of the hole to the center of the front sight band. That will get you a close measurement.

Copy thanks.

I found a really cool Africa corps sling on that IMA site but they are OOS. I searched and searched for another but came up short. That would be cool to have..

Posted: 6/2/2019 7:55:09 PM EDT

[#8]

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Quoted:

Copy thanks.

I found a really cool Africa corps sling on that IMA site but they are OOS. I searched and searched for another but came up short. That would be cool to have..

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At The Front is the only way to go for a repro sling...

Their best...

https://www.atthefront.com/product-p/gwk98t.htm

Pricey, but not as much as originals, good and strong, useable as opposed to originals...can't go wrong...

PS an AK sling? Was it web? Then it was super farby and crap...the Germans never had anything but leather slings until maybe very late in the war...certainly not for the Afrikan campaign...

Posted: 6/2/2019 8:16:11 PM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
At The Front is the only way to go for a repro sling...

Their best...

https://www.atthefront.com/product-p/gwk98t.htm

Pricey, but not as much as originals, good and strong, useable as opposed to originals...can't go wrong...

PS an AK sling? Was it web? Then it was super farby and crap...the Germans never had anything but leather slings until maybe very late in the war...certainly not for the Afrikan campaign...

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Quoted:

Quoted:

Copy thanks.

I found a really cool Africa corps sling on that IMA site but they are OOS. I searched and searched for another but came up short. That would be cool to have..

At The Front is the only way to go for a repro sling...

Their best...

https://www.atthefront.com/product-p/gwk98t.htm

Pricey, but not as much as originals, good and strong, useable as opposed to originals...can't go wrong...

PS an AK sling? Was it web? Then it was super farby and crap...the Germans never had anything but leather slings until maybe very late in the war...certainly not for the Afrikan campaign...

Interesting. They stated it was for the Africa campaign?

Posted: 6/2/2019 8:33:44 PM EDT

[#10]

Nope. Fantasy crap. The Germans did not use web slings on their K98ks, even in the Afrika Korps. There were a few webbing slings produced for other weapons, like the Panzershrek and very late war last-ditch Volksgewehr rifles, but those were not for K98ks. Besides, they don't look anything like the fake web sling IMA is trying to sell as DAK K98k slings.

My friendly suggestion is to take a breath and do some research before spending any more money. The K98k pool is very deep, and diving in headfirst unprepared leads to wasting your time and money on stuff like Chilean bolts, DAK web slings, and special SS honor guard rifles from Mitchell's Mausers.

Gunboards and the K98k Forum are the two best online forums for K98k info. There's a wealth of information available on those two sites for free. And if you really want to learn a ton, the three/four volume Karabiner 98k series by Karem and Steves is well worth the (admittedly steep) cost, for a serious collector.

Posted: 6/2/2019 8:54:36 PM EDT

[#11]

Here's another source. https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewcategories.asp?idCategory=40

Also, RC's weren't imported with the action locking screws. Many people add them but they are rarely timed correctly to tightly hold the action in the stock. Thus over time this movement of the action in the stock will cause cracking/splitting of the stock at the wrist and or setback of the recoil log in the stock.

I also add shims made of strips of soda can between the action and the recoil lug so that the action is tight in the stock. It seems to help. The Russian reassembled these Mausers but didn't properly fit them during reassembly. Congrats and can't wait for a range report.

Posted: 6/2/2019 9:15:12 PM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:
Nope. Fantasy crap. The Germans did not use web slings on their K98ks, even in the Afrika Korps. There were a few webbing slings produced for other weapons, like the Panzershrek and very late war last-ditch Volksgewehr rifles, but those were not for K98ks. Besides, they don't look anything like the fake web sling IMA is trying to sell as DAK K98k slings.

My friendly suggestion is to take a breath and do some research before spending any more money. The K98k pool is very deep, and diving in headfirst unprepared leads to wasting your time and money on stuff like Chilean bolts, DAK web slings, and special SS honor guard rifles from Mitchell's Mausers.

Gunboards and the K98k Forum are the two best online forums for K98k info. There's a wealth of information available on those two sites for free. And if you really want to learn a ton, the three/four volume Karabiner 98k series by Karem and Steves is well worth the (admittedly steep) cost, for a serious collector.

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Thanks for the info

Posted: 6/2/2019 9:19:51 PM EDT

[#13]

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Quoted:
Here's another source. https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewcategories.asp?idCategory=40

Also, RC's weren't imported with the action locking screws. Many people add them but they are rarely timed correctly to tightly hold the action in the stock. Thus over time this movement of the action in the stock will cause cracking/splitting of the stock at the wrist and or setback of the recoil log in the stock.

I also add shims made of strips of soda can between the action and the recoil lug so that the action is tight in the stock. It seems to help. The Russian reassembled these Mausers but didn't properly fit them during reassembly. Congrats and can't wait for a range report.

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I'll check it out. Thanks

Posted: 6/4/2019 12:53:50 PM EDT

[#14]

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Quoted:
I found a bolt that is near mint for 117 shipped. That seems to be the best price I can find. Anyone else have a source before I Fo?

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Well I bought the bolt from legacy collectibles. I contacted the guy on eBay and asked a few questions. It took him a few days to get back to me and he wasn't the nicest to deal with. I had requested a few pictures of the marks on a couple of bolts and he said his pictures on eBay were already good enough. Well if you are into blurry shots taken from 5' away then I guess they would be perfect. I messaged him again and asked if he couldn't take better pictures if he was at least willing to grab the nicest finish bolt out of his pile for me, he never responded. His lack of care cost him a sale. I did email him back and he answered right away. He said he wasn't going to loose any sleep over the missed sale.

Legacy responded to a question within a matter of mins and shipped the very same day. 13$ cheaper too.

Posted: 6/5/2019 10:56:54 AM EDT

[#15]

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Quoted:

Well I bought the bolt from legacy collectibles. I contacted the guy on eBay and asked a few questions. It took him a few days to get back to me and he wasn't the nicest to deal with. I had requested a few pictures of the marks on a couple of bolts and he said his pictures on eBay were already good enough. Well if you are into blurry shots taken from 5' away then I guess they would be perfect. I messaged him again and asked if he couldn't take better pictures if he was at least willing to grab the nicest finish bolt out of his pile for me, he never responded. His lack of care cost him a sale. I did email him back and he answered right away. He said he wasn't going to loose any sleep over the missed sale.

Legacy responded to a question within a matter of mins and shipped the very same day. 13$ cheaper too.

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Tag is rough around the edges, but he has a lot of k98 parts and a lot of manufacturers/waffenamts to choose from. Probably the best selection out there right now if your looking for something specific.

Posted: 6/5/2019 3:29:44 PM EDT

[#16]

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Quoted:
Tag is rough around the edges, but he has a lot of k98 parts and a lot of manufacturers/waffenamts to choose from. Probably the best selection out there right now if your looking for something specific.

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Quoted:

Quoted:

Well I bought the bolt from legacy collectibles. I contacted the guy on eBay and asked a few questions. It took him a few days to get back to me and he wasn't the nicest to deal with. I had requested a few pictures of the marks on a couple of bolts and he said his pictures on eBay were already good enough. Well if you are into blurry shots taken from 5' away then I guess they would be perfect. I messaged him again and asked if he couldn't take better pictures if he was at least willing to grab the nicest finish bolt out of his pile for me, he never responded. His lack of care cost him a sale. I did email him back and he answered right away. He said he wasn't going to loose any sleep over the missed sale.

Legacy responded to a question within a matter of mins and shipped the very same day. 13$ cheaper too.

Tag is rough around the edges, but he has a lot of k98 parts and a lot of manufacturers/waffenamts to choose from. Probably the best selection out there right now if your looking for something specific.

Extremely.. I was nice and not asking for a whole lot but he apparently didn't want my money. That's ok with me..

Posted: 6/5/2019 7:28:33 PM EDT

[#17]

The bolt showed up this afternoon in excellent condition.

Posted: 6/5/2019 9:41:27 PM EDT

[#18]

I bought another k98 bolt years and years ago and tried it in my RC k98 and it split cases like crazy. Ended up just taking my bolt head and body from the orignal and put it on my new one and has been fine since. ( I needed a new firing pin and spring to shoot yugo ammo)

Posted: 6/5/2019 10:05:58 PM EDT

[#19]

Question regarding the cleaning rod. How in the hell is a 10" or a 12" rod supposed to clean the bore? Its a little short. lol

Edit: I figured it out. You have to use multiple rods to be able to clean one rifle. IE borrow your buddies.

Posted: 6/6/2019 11:05:19 AM EDT

[#20]

Yep. There were also separate individual cleaning kits with pull-through bore cleaning chains, similar in concept to a Boresnake.

Posted: 6/6/2019 11:25:20 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
Yep. There were also separate individual cleaning kits with pull-through bore cleaning chains, similar in concept to a Boresnake.

http://www.mp44.nl/images/equipment/rg34/rg34_18.jpg

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61QO9HrgrVL._SX425_.jpg

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Ahh good to know. Thanks.

Posted: 6/11/2019 10:58:53 PM EDT

[#22]

I need to headspace this gun. Is there a way to do it without buying the gauges?

Posted: 6/11/2019 11:39:05 PM EDT

[#23]

OST
i'm moving my K98 down from Dad's safe this weekend

Posted: 6/12/2019 12:53:02 PM EDT

[#24]

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I need to headspace this gun. Is there a way to do it without buying the gauges?

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Sandbag and a string

Odds are its fine. I have a field gauge and checked upwards of 20 98k's (various types RC, Romania Return, Bolt m/m) and probably 10 or so VZ24's with nothng failing.

Posted: 6/12/2019 6:48:56 PM EDT

[#25]

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Quoted:
Sandbag and a string

Odds are its fine. I have a field gauge and checked upwards of 20 98k's (various types RC, Romania Return, Bolt m/m) and probably 10 or so VZ24's with nothng failing.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
I need to headspace this gun. Is there a way to do it without buying the gauges?

Sandbag and a string

Odds are its fine. I have a field gauge and checked upwards of 20 98k's (various types RC, Romania Return, Bolt m/m) and probably 10 or so VZ24's with nothng failing.

Lol. I watched a video where a guy removed the firing pin and kept adding layers of tape to the end of the case. Once the bolt stopped closing on the case he removed the tape and measured thickness. Then he compared it to known differences in the no go, go and field gauges to see where his HS was at. Kind of a ghetto way but it made sense.

Posted: 6/14/2019 2:33:02 PM EDT

[#26]

Nice!

Mine is a byf 44 also, though it was a Yugoslavian capture.

Posted: 6/14/2019 3:56:04 PM EDT

[#27]

Quote History

Quoted:
Lol. I watched a video where a guy removed the firing pin and kept adding layers of tape to the end of the case. Once the bolt stopped closing on the case he removed the tape and measured thickness. Then he compared it to known differences in the no go, go and field gauges to see where his HS was at. Kind of a ghetto way but it made sense.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
I need to headspace this gun. Is there a way to do it without buying the gauges?

Sandbag and a string

Odds are its fine. I have a field gauge and checked upwards of 20 98k's (various types RC, Romania Return, Bolt m/m) and probably 10 or so VZ24's with nothng failing.

Lol. I watched a video where a guy removed the firing pin and kept adding layers of tape to the end of the case. Once the bolt stopped closing on the case he removed the tape and measured thickness. Then he compared it to known differences in the no go, go and field gauges to see where his HS was at. Kind of a ghetto way but it made sense.

Tape??

- yes; most ghetto and not accurate.

However, the general concept is sound.

An old retired gunsmith I know buys cheap feelerguage sets and cuts small sections of known-thickness metal to measure headspace that way.

Posted: 6/17/2019 12:37:26 PM EDT

[#28]

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but looking for advice and didn't want to create yet another "i want to buy a k98 thread"

Like the OP, I want a k98, but have realized that unless I happen to win the lottery and find a good deal on one, this will probably never happen. Honestly I should have bought one back when I first got my C&R but I was stupid and never did. My bad.

Also like the OP, I don't know much about them, the variants, etc. I have been reading all of your helpful suggestions and information.

So I have settled on getting a Yugo. I missed out on a recent sale of one here, but I have an opportunity to buy one somewhat locally (about 2 hrs away).

It is an M48A, all matching, bore and condition is very good. Seller also will include a bayonet/sheath, and sling (not sure if original).

His asking price is $475 shipped. Is this a pretty good deal on an M48A and worth picking up?

It might satisfy my Mauser need until maybe I can find a sweet deal on a RC, but not holding my breath.

Also-any ammo suggestions? I know all milsurp stuff is long gone, but not sure if there is any commercial stuff worth getting for avoiding.

If you guys could please let me know since I am a novice in regards to these rifles.
Thanks,
Mav

Posted: 6/17/2019 1:34:11 PM EDT

[#29]

475 is probably on the high side but it includes shipping. In the EE there was a nice like new one for $380, and I see deals quite a bit on m48s so i would hold off unless you really want it.

I would rather pick up a yugo k98 before a m48 and they are usually cheaper.

Posted: 6/17/2019 3:29:25 PM EDT

[#30]

Quote History

Quoted:

Lol. I watched a video where a guy removed the firing pin and kept adding layers of tape to the end of the case. Once the bolt stopped closing on the case he removed the tape and measured thickness. Then he compared it to known differences in the no go, go and field gauges to see where his HS was at. Kind of a ghetto way but it made sense.

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I was first shown this method 30 years ago by an old time gunsmith who said he had been doing this for 30 years before that.

You have to have some "touch" as Scotch tape is soft and easily crushed. You'll think you have excess headspace when you do not.

With a Mauser you MUST completely disassemble the bolt when checking headspace, including the extractor.
(True for most action types)

Posted: 6/17/2019 3:33:02 PM EDT

[#31]

Quote History

Quoted:
Tape??

- yes; most ghetto and not accurate.

However, the general concept is sound.

An old retired gunsmith I know buys cheap feelerguage sets and cuts small sections of known-thickness metal to measure headspace that way.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
I need to headspace this gun. Is there a way to do it without buying the gauges?

Sandbag and a string

Odds are its fine. I have a field gauge and checked upwards of 20 98k's (various types RC, Romania Return, Bolt m/m) and probably 10 or so VZ24's with nothng failing.

Lol. I watched a video where a guy removed the firing pin and kept adding layers of tape to the end of the case. Once the bolt stopped closing on the case he removed the tape and measured thickness. Then he compared it to known differences in the no go, go and field gauges to see where his HS was at. Kind of a ghetto way but it made sense.

Tape??

- yes; most ghetto and not accurate.

However, the general concept is sound.

An old retired gunsmith I know buys cheap feelerguage sets and cuts small sections of known-thickness metal to measure headspace that way.

It can be accurate based on user skill.
It will also give you the information to know what shim stock to cut.

Bolt guns have enough camming torque that you can push the shoulder back if using too thick of a shim.

All of this is why gauges are the best method. Little user knowledge required.

Posted: 6/17/2019 6:16:10 PM EDT

[#32]

Thanks. Any leads on inexpensive gauges? I hate to buy expensive ones for just one use.

Posted: 6/18/2019 8:20:54 AM EDT

[#33]

Quote History

Quoted:
475 is probably on the high side but it includes shipping. In the EE there was a nice like new one for $380, and I see deals quite a bit on m48s so i would hold off unless you really want it.

I would rather pick up a yugo k98 before a m48 and they are usually cheaper.

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Thanks for responding to my post. Yeah I missed out on that one in the EE. So you think $475 is a bit on the high side. I thought that too. I am still mulling it around for now, but will continue looking. Thanks again.

Posted: 6/18/2019 11:20:54 AM EDT

[#34]

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Quoted:
Thanks. Any leads on inexpensive gauges? I hate to buy expensive ones for just one use.

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You can buy a "Field" gauge.

It won't tell you a lot, but it will let you know if that headspace is not outside of maximum.

Posted: 6/18/2019 3:37:42 PM EDT

[#35]

Quote History

Quoted:

You can buy a "Field" gauge.

It won't tell you a lot, but it will let you know if that headspace is not outside of maximum.

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This is all I use to check mine.

Posted: 6/18/2019 4:29:16 PM EDT

[#36]

Quote History

Quoted:

You can buy a "Field" gauge.

It won't tell you a lot, but it will let you know if that headspace is not outside of maximum.

View Quote

Copy. Thanks

Posted: 10/18/2019 9:11:51 AM EDT

[#37]

Ok I have a question.

I was at the range the other day shooting at 100 yards and I had a hell of a time with the sights. They seem to blend into each other and deciphering the front from rear was difficult. I have never had problems with other guns.

Is there any way to help this? Paint?