Quoted: Quoted: looks like ill go ahead and get one.   anybody know of the best place for ammo for this thing? Also, i  have a friend who wants one as well, but only if there is a round available for hunting for it.  Does one even exist? You can buy hunting ammo in 7.5mm Swiss. I saw some Norma lead-tip 7.5 Swiss ammo at a gun store last week. It's expensive though. Are you sitting down? $60 for 20 rounds.

Hornady 165gr SPBT   $19.97/20  (Stock # HX5M-77407)
Sportsmans Guide 7.55X55

Quoted: Swingset, where did you get the longshanks?  Are they still available?

Got it from a friend, came from a collection somewhere. The long 1911's are out there, but mostly in private hands.

Mine is as mint as I've ever seen, so I got very lucky but if you think the K-31 is a smooth rifle, you need to shoot this one. The trigger is truly dreamy, and it feels like a .223 to shoot it.

Well, Wolf is SUPPOSED to have ammo out in 7.5 Swiss.  It's supposed to be brass cased and boxer primed.  It was supposed to be out right about now.  


I'd definitely pick up a K31 if I were you.  I have two now, and want to get a couple more.  I want to get one to have a scope mount (drill and tap, left side of receiver), and one to use as a match rifle with some nice sights.   And a couple to leave alone.  

Quoted: Quoted: looks like ill go ahead and get one.   anybody know of the best place for ammo for this thing? Also, i  have a friend who wants one as well, but only if there is a round available for hunting for it.  Does one even exist? You can buy hunting ammo in 7.5mm Swiss. I saw some Norma lead-tip 7.5 Swiss ammo at a gun store last week. It's expensive though. Are you sitting down? $60 for 20 rounds.

Graf's has Hornady 165gr BTSP for $19.99 for 20.

Quoted: Since this seems to be the K-31 thread, here's a Q I cleaned up one of the sweeties I brought home the other day, found out that a relatively light trigger pull on a dirty rifle has now become an extremely light pull once it cleaned up.  At least under three pounds.  Probably two.  It has a good deal of take up, but once you reach the engagement point, just a slight nudge will trip it.  Is this cause for concern?  I don't want it to slam fire, if it can do such a thing, when I close the bolt. My first has about a 4 pound pull and the other dirty one that's patiently waiting for the solvent has about a 6 pound pull.

They have a two stage trigger so the take up is normal.  My k31 has a really light trigger too.

Quoted: Niiice, but all I see is short rifles. You need a long one too! home.alltel.net/swingset/temp/1911_SR_full.jpg

i got a long one

Nice rifle, but that carpet is kind of painful.

Taggage

Here are my two..a 1944 on the left, a 1952 model on the right, both had the tags from the last soldier issued..and required no cleanup of anything(stocks arent even cleat skuffed)
the '44 was carried by a alpine(mountain)infantryman and the '52 carried by a sapper.

What is the decal on the buttstocks of those two K31's

I have a 1956 made K31, but it is by no means "like-new". It has seen its share of use despite it being made at the end of production. It shoots better than any rifle I own, better than my .308 Tikka.

A .30-cal muzzle wear gage wont even go into the muzzle, so it's bore is less than .308", and it has been shot quite a bit.

Once again for the masses, I present the blonde and the brunette:



Both shoot MOA or better if I do my part.

-White Horse

Quoted: What is the decal on the buttstocks of those two K31's

That would be "ProTell" stickers....that organization is the swiss's version of the "NRA"
It means Siding with William Tell(a hero to the Swiss, as he told the powerful ruling House of Hapberg to go take a flying leap when they tried to disarm the swiss population) We all heard about the shooting the apple off his sons head with an arrow..the part they left out is that he turned around and Killed that sheriff that forced him to do that soon after.

Quoted: Once again for the masses, I present the blonde and the brunette: img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/rcalhoun/Gun%20pics/K31_receivers.jpg Both shoot MOA or better if I do my part. -White Horse

wow, nice.

How did you manage to find 2 with no buttstock damage on the tops?

There is a ProTell member here in the U.S. that sells them and the lapel pins(which are very nice)
his email is :   Karl [email protected]

the lapel pins are two sizes priced@ 5.00&10.00
the stickers were either 2.00 or 3.00 each(cant remember ,and they come in two sizes as well, buttstock size and the large size @ 5.00 I think) all proceeds go to ProTell in switzerland.
Karl is a regular poster on swissrifles.com

Last time I talked to him he was running low on the stickers but was expecting more in.

ALSO, If you have ever wanted a brand spankin new sling for your K31, there is a guy that makes them(I have three of his slings) for 25.00 post paid and they are OEM in every detail and beautiful workmanship(complete with all metal). Pete is also a regular at swissrifles.com and has the email of : [email protected]

He made me a british issue type sling for my 1853 Enfield replica that is better than any I could get from the sutler outfits he da'man when it comes to historic leather slings.

Has anyone re-blued their's?  I've used BirchwoodCasey's permablue and it doesn't seem to stay on.

-mark

MauserMark, Try a product called "Blue Wonder". It is a bluing agent that comes in 2 parts, the bluing agent and a developer. You apply the blue then apply the developer to stop the bluing process.

I have had very good results with this product and it allows you to control how deep you want the bluing color. Be careful though, I have accidentally blued stainless when I spilt some on my bench.

Hope this helps and before you ask, no i don't own stock in the company.

Just got mine an hour ago.  Woo woo!!!

So what's the best way to clean the stock?  There's no cosmoline, but it's pretty grimy.  I'd like to get a deep clean and make it look as good as White-horse's.

Quoted: Just got mine an hour ago.  Woo woo!!! So what's the best way to clean the stock?  There's no cosmoline, but it's pretty grimy.  I'd like to get a deep clean and make it look as good as White-horse's.

I got mine on Friday, the stock was too beat up to ever look like White-horse's but I stripped off the old shellac, lightly sanded it, and then used amber shellac.  It looks much better but still has some marks and dings that give it some character.

Quoted: Quoted: Once again for the masses, I present the blonde and the brunette: img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/rcalhoun/Gun%20pics/K31_receivers.jpg Both shoot MOA or better if I do my part. -White Horse wow, nice. How did you manage to find 2 with no buttstock damage on the tops?

I purchased both of those in that condition.  The guy who buys them gets to pick from the supply of rifles.  He then gives them a little tlc and resells them.  I don't think they start out as $60 specials, though.  

BTW, I read in a post where the stock damage comes from.  They do barbed wire drills with them where a soldier lifts the barbed wire for the others to pass.  It isn't from stacking in the snow as some think.

-White Horse

Quoted: Just got mine an hour ago.  Woo woo!!! So what's the best way to clean the stock?  There's no cosmoline, but it's pretty grimy.  I'd like to get a deep clean and make it look as good as White-horse's.

Cut and paste from an earlier post.  I wrote and then saved this, because I knew it would come up again.

Here you go:

After several stock refinishes I went back to the fellow who did the K31's you see in the picture.  All that I could get out of him was a mumbled reply about "...a light coat of polyurathane."

Here is his simple secret and my experience together.

First, buy a boatload of sandpaper in 250, 400, 600, and 800.  

1.  Cover any cartouches with masking tape or a sticker to remind you not to buff them out.  

2.  Degrease the stock as much as you can. (I have found that simple green foaming organic grill cleaner works great on grease and cosmo, but with K31's cosmoline doesn't seem to be a problem.  Be sure to rinse well and let it dry before sanding.

3.  Steam out the bumps and scratches by using your iron (on high) and a wet washcloth.  Put the washcloth over the wood and press firmly with the iron, moving it back and forth.  Don't be shy with the water.  The steam will help lift out the scratches.  It helps, but can't work miracles.  Let it dry overnight.

4.  Sand the wood with the 250 until smooth.  Spend more time with the 400 and 600, then finally "polish" it with the 800.  Feel free to wipe the wood with a damp cloth between sandings, this will raise the grain and ready it for the next round of sanding.  Don't be tempted to use steel wool like some folks suggest.  You will get miniscule slivers of metal in the wood grain that will be there forever.  Some have suggested using the 3M scrub pads to avoid this, but I have not tried that.  The 800 sandpaper puts on a nice polish.  This step can take several days of hanging out alone the garage breathing sawdust and catbox fumes.  Relish the quality alone time.  

5.  Once you are done sanding, wipe the wood clean with a dry terry cloth or cotton rag.  Don't worry about the little bit of sawdust still left in the grain of the wood.

6.  Use a quality polyurathane like Minwax Fast Drying Satin (hint).  DO NOT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, they are probably for furniture finishing or something.  Start at one end of the stock and use a clean rag to wipe the finish on a section with a light coat.  Rub well to get the sawdust from the grain.  When you are done wiping it into a 4 inch section, wipe it off immediately using a dry part of the cloth.  Move on until the whole stock or part is done.  Do not apply a second coat like the directions say.

I have used this to refinish an old A2 Springfield stock.  It turned out just as stunning as the two K31's.  (This after some somewhat less than stunning stock refinishing projects for some relatives.)

Enjoy.

-White Horse

"Guisan" over on swissrifles.com  no doubt will have them.....he has a catalog in the marketplace section on that board...he is in the neatherlands,but I have ordered from him and the stuff gets here quick and he has a stellar reputation......is the guy to know for swiss gun parts and peices.

Has anyone seen slings on K31's?  I saw two at an almost local shop with slings.  One leather, one was braided like material.  Like what the guys are making the tac slings out of, but dirty white.  My K31 didn't have a sling.

Jim if you want a brand new sling see my earlier post on page 3 in this thread....I just replaced my two 1940's/50's slings with ones made by [email protected] for 25.00 each post paid
(they come with the metal also)the ones he makes are exactly the same as the regulation kind and with superb workmanship.
otherwise every sling you get for it will be a 50 year old piece of leather.

Quoted: 6.  Use a quality polyurathane like Minwax Fast Drying Satin (hint).  DO NOT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, they are probably for furniture finishing or something.  Start at one end of the stock and use a clean rag to wipe the finish on a section with a light coat.  Rub well to get the sawdust from the grain.  When you are done wiping it into a 4 inch section, wipe it off immediately using a dry part of the cloth.  Move on until the whole stock or part is done.  Do not apply a second coat like the directions say. -White Horse

Damn, my secret is out.  I read about this method a while back and tried it on my second K31.

Quoted: Quoted: 6.  Use a quality polyurathane like Minwax Fast Drying Satin (hint).  DO NOT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, they are probably for furniture finishing or something.  Start at one end of the stock and use a clean rag to wipe the finish on a section with a light coat.  Rub well to get the sawdust from the grain.  When you are done wiping it into a 4 inch section, wipe it off immediately using a dry part of the cloth.  Move on until the whole stock or part is done.  Do not apply a second coat like the directions say. -White Horse Damn, my secret is out.  I read about this method a while back and tried it on my second K31. home.earthlink.net/~theoneandonlyhoppy/images/c&r/02a.JPG

Well done.  

btw, where, exactly did you "read about this method a while back"?  

-White Horse

p.s.  Honestly, I don't where the method came from, I just like to share the results.

Quoted: Quoted: 6.  Use a quality polyurathane like Minwax Fast Drying Satin (hint).  DO NOT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, they are probably for furniture finishing or something.  Start at one end of the stock and use a clean rag to wipe the finish on a section with a light coat.  Rub well to get the sawdust from the grain.  When you are done wiping it into a 4 inch section, wipe it off immediately using a dry part of the cloth.  Move on until the whole stock or part is done.  Do not apply a second coat like the directions say. -White Horse Damn, my secret is out.  I read about this method a while back and tried it on my second K31. home.earthlink.net/~theoneandonlyhoppy/images/c&r/02a.JPG

Damn that's nice!!! I should talk you into doing mine..............

4 pages and nobody told me where I can get that badass bayonet!

Quoted: 4 pages and nobody told me where I can get that badass bayonet!

 I've been searching for several days too.  Found a couple, but no sawbacks.

Quoted: Quoted: so it's not a good idea to hunt with GP11? No!  Not a good idea to hunt with fmj.  Doesn't produce humane kills. Of course, you were probably joking when you asked the question.

FMJ doesn't produce 'humane kills'?   REally.  So it is suitable for shooting vermach soldiers but not suitable for deer?  ARe you serious.  WHY?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: so it's not a good idea to hunt with GP11? No!  Not a good idea to hunt with fmj.  Doesn't produce humane kills. Of course, you were probably joking when you asked the question. FMJ doesn't produce 'humane kills'?   REally.  So it is suitable for shooting vermach soldiers but not suitable for deer?  ARe you serious.  WHY?

When you shoot a deer you want it to go down fast and die quickly.  Why fast?  Because you don't want a wounded deer running off and dying somewhere where you can't find it.  Yes, it does happen that wounded deer get away and die later.

Why kill it quickly?  I'm not even a hunter and I know that answer.  Real hunters aren't sadist.  Hunting isn't about inflicting pain.

Yes, fmj is suitable for shooting people and not game animals.  At least, that's what world governments think.  Yes, I'm dead serious.  Ask any hunter on Arfcom.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: 6.  Use a quality polyurathane like Minwax Fast Drying Satin (hint).  DO NOT FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS, they are probably for furniture finishing or something.  Start at one end of the stock and use a clean rag to wipe the finish on a section with a light coat.  Rub well to get the sawdust from the grain.  When you are done wiping it into a 4 inch section, wipe it off immediately using a dry part of the cloth.  Move on until the whole stock or part is done.  Do not apply a second coat like the directions say. -White Horse Damn, my secret is out.  I read about this method a while back and tried it on my second K31. home.earthlink.net/~theoneandonlyhoppy/images/c&r/02a.JPG Well done.   btw, where, exactly did you "read about this method a while back"?   -White Horse p.s.  Honestly, I don't where the method came from, I just like to share the results.

It was probably on Parallax Bills site.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: so it's not a good idea to hunt with GP11? No!  Not a good idea to hunt with fmj.  Doesn't produce humane kills. Of course, you were probably joking when you asked the question. FMJ doesn't produce 'humane kills'?   REally.  So it is suitable for shooting vermach soldiers but not suitable for deer?  ARe you serious.  WHY?

People go down quicker than game, most probably because they know they've been shot and act accordingly.  Game knows nothing about guns or the effects.  All they know is they've been hit by something so if nothing stops then from running they will until they bleed out.

Quoted: 4 pages and nobody told me where I can get that badass bayonet!

Isn't progress wonderful...?




This one came from the Reno gunshow. Expect to pay $150-300. I've seen them online also.

Dang!  The next best thing would be to duct tape a samurai sword to the stock.  

Quoted: Does anyone know where to find ammo pouches for the K31 7.5 ammo on stripper clips?  I found some clips, now I just need a way to cary them.  It would be nice if it was original issue, but just a simple belt pouch would be okay.  The Mosin Nagant and Mauser pouches are too small. thanks

Ammo pouches, stripper clips, slings and bayonets can be found on internet auction sites like ePay

Quoted: Quoted: 4 pages and nobody told me where I can get that badass bayonet! Isn't progress wonderful...? img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/VonErnst/DSCF0287.jpg This one came from the Reno gunshow. Expect to pay $150-300. I've seen them online also.

Imagine the psychological effect of close quarters combat and coming face to face with that serrated pioneer bayonet!

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: 4 pages and nobody told me where I can get that badass bayonet! Isn't progress wonderful...? img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/VonErnst/DSCF0287.jpg This one came from the Reno gunshow. Expect to pay $150-300. I've seen them online also. Imagine the psychological effect of close quarters combat and coming face to face with that serrated pioneer bayonet!

That rather gruesome looking tool is for lifting barbed wire, but I understand you.  Yeesh.


Let's see...

Step 1:  Insert below the sternum.
Step 2:  Saw upward using back and forth motion through ribcage until aggressor shows no sign of life and/or ceases aggressive behavior.
Step 3:  Repeat as necessary, cleaning equipment thoroughly between use.

-White Horse

Quoted: Get one, and you'll find yourself like, me selling your extra mosins to get more.  Literally, I rarely take any other C&R to the range now other than my K31. This was a $60 beater that looked like crap when I got it from AIM, a little elbow grease and paitence paid off. i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/markawil/J-K-31.jpg

Selling Mosins to get K31s? Blasphemy!

How is the recoil of the 7.5 swiss? Bad?

I find it similar to a 91/30, but haven't shot either a whole lot.

Quoted: How is the recoil of the 7.5 swiss? Bad?

Quoted: Quoted: Get one, and you'll find yourself like, me selling your extra mosins to get more.  Literally, I rarely take any other C&R to the range now other than my K31. This was a $60 beater that looked like crap when I got it from AIM, a little elbow grease and paitence paid off. i11.photobucket.com/albums/a199/markawil/J-K-31.jpg Selling Mosins to get K31s? Blasphemy! How is the recoil of the 7.5 swiss? Bad?

Nah, my Browning A-Bolt 30-06 has more recoil.  I can shoot it 30-40 times with no problems.  I figured with the steel buttplate that I was gonna get raped when I pulled the trigger.  Not near as bad as I expected.

Is AIM the best place to order from?

OR Does the fact that This guy checks the condition of every rifle warrent the price hike for the rifles that are avalible from Allans-Armory?

www.allans-armory.com/aaresult.asp?PageId=31


Also any thoughts on the Albanian SKS?

Quoted: Has anyone seen slings on K31's?  I saw two at an almost local shop with slings.  One leather, one was braided like material.  Like what the guys are making the tac slings out of, but dirty white.  My K31 didn't have a sling.

A source for almost every K31 part

Who has the best price on these right now? I would like to pick up some bargin ones for projects.