This thread was long ago selected for non-archive status.  It will always be available in this forum, even if it sinks to the bottom of the last page.  No need to bump it to save it from going away.

This is the holster for your M-9 pistol; it was made for it, and is both ALICE and PALS compatible:http://www.unclesamsretailoutlet.com/Ambidextrous-M12-Pistol-Holster-Used-p/8874.htm.  They come and go at USRO, and sometimes new ones pop up, at a higher price.  A hip extender, also from Safariland, is available for it, should you want a bit of a drop, as many seem to do: http://www.unclesamsretailoutlet.com/Bianchi-Hip-Extender-1095013392213-p/2291.htm.

According to Safariland (the original mfr; there are others), the same holster ought to fit your 5" barrel 1911A1:http://www.safariland.com/holsters/tactical-military-holsters/.

These holsters are very well-made, and are ambidextrous.  Note the many accessories for it on Safariland link.  Unless you are riding in vehicles, the shoulder and chest rig are not worth a look.  Some folks opt to remove the flap, and in its place install a thumb break, which gives some security and increased access speed, albeit at some sacrifice in protection from the elements.

Ditto the recommendation for USRO, and you might also consider Ebay.  That said, this is a thread about ALICE items.  I would very much prefer that it was confined to that topic.  

You strongly suggest posting a separate topic/question on Tactical Gear Forum, where you might get more responses.

In any event, be advised that the USMC ditched the ILBE not because it was a comfortable pack--which it is-- but because it did not interface well with body armor.

That's good.  If you want to further research the ILBE, may I suggest posting a separate topic in another thread?  Much obliged.

Yes, I've made an ALICE Hellcat using the 1603 frame, and it works well with either size ALICE pack.  Your frame should look just like this:http://downeastinc.com/Products.php/?Link=1603.  Be prepared to compare the pic with a prospective purchase.

The frame will have molded-into it, near the bottom, exactly which frame type it is.  Hard to see if the waist belt is still attached. The DEI 1606 and 1603 frames are fine for ALICE retrofitting, with the 1603 fitting the Lg ALICE better, and the 1606 fitting the Med better.  However, either will do with either pack.

DO NOT buy any MOLLE frame other than these frame numbers, as the older (almost always BLACK) frames were found to be deficient, hence the re-designed (and different number) frames.

It's been a long time since I made these packs, and I forget the exact details.  However, I can say for sure, that I followed the Hellcat posts contained in this thread.  I never had to cut any frame, as I recall.  I think that if you go back through this thread, and read carefully, that your frame questions will be answered.

I think the main point of the original Hellcat posts is to use BOTH the MOLLE shoulder straps and waist belt on the MOLLE Frame onto which the ALICE packs were to bee mounted.  I wouldn't do the mod without both.  DEFINITELY NOT.  The point of the Hellcat posts was to attach a Lg ALICE pack to a modern, MOLLE frame, with BOTH MOLLE  waistbelt and shoulder straps.  Doing it halfway defeats the purpose of the mod.

By virtue of its' original construction, the Lg ALICE pack must be worn with a frame.  Med ALICE has options.

I suggest the DE 1606 MOLLE Frame, with Enhanced  MOLLE shoulder straps, and MOLLE waistband would be ideal for your TT ruck, as long as your TT ruck attaches in the same way a GI ALICE pack attaches to the frame.  The Enhanced MOLLE shoulder straps are very seldom seen in coyote brown, and are almost always in Woodland or desert camo.  The shoulder straps differ from Standard MOLLE shoulder straps in being curved in order to better accommodate body armor.  I suppose that would also include very heavy clothing as well.  If these things don't matter to you, then the standard MOLLE shoulder straps and waist belt can be found in 3-color desert, and can be easily dyed to a very close approximation of coyote brown.  The 1606 iframe will also allow attachment of a MOLLE Modular Sleeping System (MSS) carrier to the underside of your TT ruck, as long as your ruck has the same webbing strips (as found on all GI ALICE packs) sewn into the bottom of the ruck.  This gives you the option of a separate, removable carrier/pouch/compartment for your sleeping gear.  A very desirable addition to any ALICE-type ruck  The desert camo MSS carriers can be dyed, same as the waist belt and shoulder straps.

The latest iterations of the plastic DE frames have been tested--DE used to have vids-- and shown to withstand more abuse than the GI metal frame.  I believe the vid showed a fully loaded ruck (they mentioned the weight--it was pretty heavy) being tossed from some height, maybe about 6 feet or so, onto the corners of the frame, its' weakest points.  Metal frame was junk, and the plastic frame was GTG.  Can't speak to the new-and-improved TT metal frame, which is much better made than the GI metal frame, but rather pricy.

MOLLE Enhanced desert shoulder straps: https://www.amazon.com/Enhanced-Shoulder-Straps-Desert-Surplus/dp/B00CHSR1AA

MOLLE Desert waist belt:https://www.amazon.com/Army-Molle-Desert-Molded-Waist/dp/B006UBSXSY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470508382&sr=8-1&keywords=molle+waist+belt+desert

MOLLE desert MSS carrier:http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/military-issue-unique-items-odds-and-ends/military-bags/molle-ii-sleep-system-carrier-3-color-desert.html

See my thread on dyeing with Rit dye in Tactical gear forum.  I reckon you will need about 6 BOXES (not bottles) to dye the stuff to coyote brown.  With some luck and some experience, you will get a shade so close you can't tell the difference.  BTDT.
Might want to buy some inexpensive GI desert pouches to practice on.

Look for posts by Enforcer in this thread about how to attach the MOLLE stuff to the DE frame and set it up.  One thread of his was on using an ALICE frame with MOLLE gear, and IIRC, a later one showed how to attach MOLLE stuff to a DE frame.  

The integral shoulder and back padding on the MOLLE shoulder straps is necessary for user comfort when using any of the DE MOLLE frames, as one will discover if attempting to use ALICE-type shoulder straps, such as the TT shoulder straps.

As far as not wanting to use the MOLLE waist belt, remember that it is a load-bearing waist belt, and the user can take a lot of the weight off his shoulders when using the belt.  It allows greater comfort and endurance.  Give it a try; I think you might be impressed with the result.

A possible reason for this problem is that you are carrying a moderately-loaded pack and not using a load-bearing weight waist belt.  Since all the weight of the heavy pack is on your shoulders, you naturally lean forward, and the frame comes into contact with your body, causing your problem.

A load-bearing waist belt, properly fitted and used, would allow you to carry an even greater load with better comfort.  Such would allow you to walk more upright, in a better posture, and also provide room between the top of the pack and your body.  I have read your reasons for not wanting to use such a waist belt, and with all due respect, I think you are making a mistake.

I might add that the USMC and the US ARMY both currently field packs which use load bearing waist belts, and practically every civilian pack I have seen carrying 45 pounds or more has a load bearing waist belt. In fact, I think it almost impossible to find a long-range hiker without such a waist belt.

I suggest you reconsider.

If the load-bearing waist belt pushes down on your hips, that's because it's doing its' job.  IOW, it's supposed do that.

Practically every pack with a load-bearing waist belt has load-leveler straps that go between the top of the shoulder straps and the top of the pack.

Tighten them up, and the weight transfers to the shoulder straps; loosen them, and the belt takes more of the weight.  Experienced hikers often adjust the load-leveler straps to vary the load distribution on the body, both for comfort and to account for variances in terrain and so forth.

It would seem some of you folks have not been trained in how to use such packs.  Here's a start: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/backpacks-adjusting-fit.html

This is a surprisingly good video that shows a lot about how to pack and wear a modern pack.  Do yourself a big favor and watch all of it.  This answers a LOT of questions: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+wear+a+backpacking+backpack&view=detail&mid=CAFC0A12C5928AE2E8DECAFC0A12C5928AE2E8DE&FORM=VIRE

I understand that if one is in the Mil, one has different pack-wearing procedures than if one was a hiker in a more benign place.  For instance, if a Soldier was anticipating contact with the enemy, it would be reasonable to unfasten the waist belt and sternum strap in order to ditch the pack more quickly.  Ordinarily, it would be expected that if enemy contact was anticipated, one would not be wearing the pack at all, or perhaps a much smaller--and lighter-- assault pack, which might not need to be doffed at all.

The Mil switched to packs with load-bearing waist belts and sternum straps on account of the great weights modern soldiers must carry.  It takes some practice and experience to make the most of these new features, and the Mil does not exactly do a stellar job of training the troops on how to do it.  If you don't want to take advantage of these features, well, that's up to you.  OTOH, and with due respect, that sounds like driving a car with a six-speed transmission and only using the first 4 gears.