Oh ya I read that before.  Seems to me you just back out the buffer tube one turn or in further one turn until the pistol grip fits snug.  I could be wrong but it seems just playing around with the tightness would fix that.  We should find out shortly when everyone is installing these.  The trigger guard has a protrusion on the rear that is supposed to keep it from moving back and forth so if there's movement then the grip would have to be loose and there would have to be a gap between the grip notch and the protrusion.  It also seems if you can't get grip tight for some reason and there's a slight gap between the grip notch and protrusion you could simply add a shim on the grip of some sort or a little epoxy or jb weld to take up any gap on the grip.  That's what I'll be doing if there's any movement.  I'm flying blind since I never had an M4 to compare to, but if the grip is on tight I would think there shouldn't be movement even if there's a slight gap between the trigger guard and grip.  I don't see how it would be dangerous either way as long as the buffer tube nut is tight because the grip can't back out because of that notch.

For anyone interested, here's a side by side comparison of the DPS trigger guard and the A&S.  As you can see the DPS has a lot more meat on the top of the rear protrusion, and in the center by the hammer, and in the rear in the area above the grip protrusion.  Findsman said A&S worked in the DPS, but it is very different.  Here is a link to all the pics I took so far including trigger guards:

DPS Gallery

Here's all the trigger pics:

https://i.imgur.com/34YQ0R8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yc2D41G.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jLAHy6s.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wfyPKF1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/l92WRPc.jpg

Here is the notch in the DPS grip for the trigger guard:
DPS grip notch

I also noticed the wear on the hammer off center when I took these pics.

Makes sense- thanks for the explanation. I’ve got the SDS Radikal- so I can’t confirm either way. Just felt bad for posting the link for the stock if there was some possibility it wouldn’t fit the CD 601 (since that was the requested application).

There’s a sulun stock kit selling on eBay for $445!!!

Started at $200, 24 bids right now, holy moly that's insane.

Sometimes people have more money than patience.

Probably Benelli M4 owners. Thats still like half the going rate of an actually Benelli C stock.

Anyone know where a can find a Benelli m4 recoil tube It dosent have to be a position marked one

I have a five position Benelli m4 one coming in on Monday

I can’t seem to find one anywhere, I bought a masa tac. Stock but the recoil tube on my CD 601 is too long

There tough to find these days .Inless you want to pay up .I’ll have 5 position up for sale after I get it

I've got one off of my SAX-2. Anyone wants it let me know.  ** Sold

IM sent

my main interest is the collapsible stock on this turknelli m4 clones.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8OIAow-RMY

Email sent to revolution armory.....

I installed the A&S trigger guard, TTI oversized safety, and the TTI reduced power hammer and trigger springs tonight.  The channel where the trigger slides through on the A&S is much narrower than the DPS housing.  My DPS trigger wasn't even close to fitting.  I weighed my options and figured it would be better to sand/file the inside of the trigger guard channel.  I did that a little bit and that is some hard aluminum.  After squeezing the trigger in and out a few times it was all scraped up so I said screw it and started filing parts of the trigger until it would fit.  By the time I was done I had filed and sanded the entire side on both sides of the trigger.  Took me about 3 hours start to finish.  I was pretty sure Findsman didn't mention any issues so either the thickness of the trigger varies a lot or my A&S was way out of spec, which I highly doubt.  Disassembling and re-assembling the trigger group is really easy as long as you don't let the hammer spring and safety spring fly around the room, but I've tinkered and modified and built a lot of guns so YMMV.  Note that the A&S comes with a roll pin for over travel and another oversized roll pin that replaces the regular safety pin.  You cannot use the old pin because the hole in the A&S is oversized for that roll pin.  I think that sucks because I hate roll pins.

Everything seemed to work fine after I got it back together but now if I ride the bolt forward slowly the trigger doesn't reset.  I don't remember it doing that before.  If I let the bolt fly forward it resets fine.  I don't know if that's something I did, the TTI hammer or trigger spring, or something a little off on the A&S compared to the DPS housing.  Maybe one of you with a stock DPS can dry fire yours, pull bolt back to lock, and ride it forward when you hit bolt release and see if yours does the same thing...pretty sure mine reset fine no matter if I rode the bolt forward or not.  With the TTI springs the trigger is a lot lighter.  Also good to note the TTI safety and some others I saw are all one color with no red coloring in the fire position which is really strange to me.  That might not be very safe for anyone not familiar with an M4.

If I had to do it over again I think I'd rather spend $80 on a ShootingSight hammer and get that to work than having to get that trigger to fit in the A&S.  That was a real chore.  I got the entire TTI spring set with a reduced recoil spring, so soon as I get the Sulun stock I can install that, but I'm suspicious of this trigger not resetting unless I let the bolt fly forward.

I got an email earlier that Delta Mike shipped my Sulun stock again, so it was apparently returned and shipped like everyone else.

This problem I mentioned yesterday about the A&S trigger housing with the DPS trigger, I think I found the problem.  Normally when the bolt cycles the hammer would come back and kick the disconnector back as the rear hook on the hammer and disconnector go past each other.  The hammer then comes up and gets caught on the trigger sear and is in cocked position, ready to release the hammer on a trigger pull.  If you are holding the trigger back after you shoot the bolt comes back and knocks the hammer down, but the disconnector is in the forward position, which catches the hammer.  When you release the trigger the hammer catches on the trigger sear and is still cocked.

So what mine is doing is catching on the disconnector unless the bolt goes forward with full force.  If anyone here understands triggers maybe they can explain to me why the hammer is catching the disconnector when I ride the bolt forward, but not when I let it fly forward.  It looks to me like because of that rear large pin in the A&S trigger housing, that the rear trigger notch sits in, it's making the disconnector too far forward and catching on the hammer.  I can see the trigger notch is preventing the rear of the trigger from going down enough so the disconnector is too far forward.  I think the solution to my problem is to sand a little bit off the top of the rear notch of the trigger so the disconnector is slightly further back.  Need some opinions if anyone understands what i'm talking about.

Attached is the section of trigger I believe needs to be sanded to move disconnector back, and a picture of the hammer snagged on disconnector without trigger held back.

Best thing to do is get rid of A&S and put a factory Benelli trigger housing.All your doing grinding and sanding is making more problems and unreliable down the road .I put a factory plastic housing in mine no problems .The Turkish packs are out of spec compared to Benelli ones.Got to remember it’s a $600 shotgun not $1500.So they cut corners and quality.The a&s has to tight tolerances for a sloppy trigger group really

Saw your email.

It almost looks like the hammer geometry is different than mine, like thicker on the top but not as thick as the SS hammer if that’s your trigger pack.  Did you take the finish off the trigger or is that another production variation too? Ugh.

That top area you circled is the surface that controls the trigger reset distance and where the disconnector slips off the hammer.  Spring pushes upward at the front of the trigger, rear of trigger rotates downward and stops on the top surface of that notch.  Playing with mine, it’s pretty close to the top travel limit when it slips off to the other hook. Taking the tiniest bit off might address it.

Catching up on the thread.... so it looks like trigger components and optics rails are variations now. For the record, my CD serial starts with 20SA12 and is in the 400 range. Wonder if the first part is year of production, like if folks that bought them this year are 21SA12 series. I’ve also got the metal (likely aluminum) optics rail.

It’s a small consolation, but a lot of the variation BS also affects the real Benellis from what I could gather on the Benelli Forum. Their QC may be better to avoid the mushrooming carriers and messed up o-rings but it seems Italians build soup sandwiches for shotguns too. Probably plays into why we don’t see a lot of 922R trigger components. Maybe someone needs to tool up and make US clones of the pistol grip since that design seems pretty universal.

badcrc, that is the same problem i had using my factory radikal trigger housing with the FFT trigger, disconnector, and hammer.  searching i found others that complained about the same thing using factory benelli or a&s parts.  most suggested to lightly sand on the disconnector until it was gtg and that is what i did.

As long as you're not going crazy taking material off there's no reason you would make it unreliable, but sure that's possible.  You can also make a $2000 Benelli unreliable by putting in one of the springs slightly crooked or doing almost any upgrade so that's not a reason not to do anything.  That's why you test any gun thoroughly if you plan on hunting with it or using it for HD.  What do you think a gunsmith is going to do if you brought in an M4 and the trigger didn't fit in the A&S?  If you think every gunsmith is a trigger expert, they aren't, yet many would likely send it with a quick mod they did.  I like to tinker and get things to work, and if I wanted a poly trigger housing I would have just kept the DPS one.



OK so I'm on the right track about the trigger...now just need to figure out how much clearance the disconnector needs to clear the hammer.  Yes, I had to take the entire finish off of both sides of the trigger to fit in the A&S.  Soon as I get it working I'm going to blue it.  After you said you didn't have an issue with the A&S I thought for sure either they sent me the wrong housing or something else was majorly different on my DPS.  A&S verified the housing I have is for the M4.  The DPS trigger housing trigger channel is gigantic compared to the A&S, so if yours just dropped into the A&S there must have been tons of slop on the DPS housing, which means there can be a huge variation of trigger thicknesses and it would still function.  Some of these BCGs might be soft but that trigger sure didn't file down easy.  Mine is serial 20SA12S low 500.  Don't know if yours has the last S in the first part of the serial or you just left it out here.


I think in this instance it's better to sand on the notch.  I would think sanding on the sear of the disconnector you could make it not function at all, which then would make the gun uncocked after firing if you held the trigger too long because the hammer would slip off the disconnector and fly up before the next round was loaded.

Picked up my 601 DPS yesterday. Pics: https://imgur.com/a/fPYYABP

UPC: 805380094112 Serial: 20SA12S-13xx

Both my rail and rear sight are polymer. People with the 8053800941129 UPC have said theirs are aluminum.

Externally the finish is pretty nice for a $550 shotgun. My one complaint is that the front sight is slightly canted.

Internally there are tool marks on the feed ramps, I doubt they will impede function. The action is pretty stiff but I don't have much to compare it to, I imagine it will smooth out with use.

I'm hoping mine is outside the range of soft carriers. I'll update after I've put some rounds through it.

Does anyone know if the Scalarworks Sync red dot mounts work with these shotguns?

The sync should work.

Mine (again fitting a fft full trigger group into a factory radikal house) was catching only on 1 corner when you released the trigger.  I sanded the disconnect on the 1 side until it released  when the trigger was released.  If the trigger is all the way back it still fully catches on both sides.  I just took little by little by fine hand file (like 4 passes) until that issue stopped.

I have a radikal but yes it worked one mine.  Pretty sure all these are coming out of the same armory.

Cheapest place I found one in stock a month ago was Amazon.

Scalarworks sync fits on my sds radikal, no issues.

I talked to StrangerDanger on Benelli Forums and he said the same thing, but he says if I file that notch the disconnector won't go forward enough.  But the issue is it's too far forward, and when you're pulling the trigger it would still be forward and function correctly.  When the trigger is pulled the disconnector is forward and the hammer pushes it back and if trigger is still pulled the hammer catches on the disconnector.  I think either way will work, I'll have to look at it and see which way I want to go.  He also said a lot of people with Benellis have had this exact same problem over the last year or so.

Problem solved with my trigger.  I took the advice of ws-6 and StrangerDanger and filed the front of the disconnector slightly until it didn't catch unless trigger was pulled.  Looks like it works perfectly now.  For anyone that gets the A&S trigger housing for the DPS just be aware if the trigger is too thick the only way to get that into the trigger channel is to sand or file the entire side of the trigger on both sides, then you might have that disconnector issue which looks easily solvable.

Update to my 601 DPS.

Serial number in the 1200s

Current shell count is 300.
Shells used were Federal (walmart) #7 and #8

Total FTF/FTE : 17±2

Shot 150 shells today in about a 45 min.

Subjectively: I can't seem to tell if there is any change in performance. It will still occasionally hiccup but today most of the hiccups were FTF. I did not have a single FTE. On a previous outing most of the failures were FTE with shells getting stuck half way when it did happen.
I handed it to a another shooter and he experienced 2 FTF in 5 shots. I shot the rest of the 150 and as far as I recall I only had 1 FTF today.
It seems to be throwing shells about 4 feet away. This a guess, I did not actually measure the distance.

Attached are some images of how the Triggers housing, piston system, bolt and carrier and the receiver appear.

The bolt carrier tail seems to be getting beaten up. Other parts are showing some wear. I can't seem to tell if anything concerning happening. Maybe someone with more experience can have a look and give better feedback.

I do own a benelli m4 and will probably compare internals once this 601 reaches 800 shells shot.

CD 601 guts

On your ftf, are the shells catching on the carrier latch?  There is a small ridge on it that was causing my ftf that a sanded down some.

Need a better pic of the bolt where the piston contacts it. Can't tell if that's peening or not.  Zooming in on that picture, it sure looks like the right side is getting chewed up good.  If enough metal rolls over the bolt slows down and eventually it could even freeze.  The receiver rail on that side will likely show some galling too.

Shot my DPS some more with all the changes I did.  It actually cycled everything even 8 shot this time.  I greased bolt and everything really good beforehand.  I had a bunch of light primer strikes this time which I'm sure is the TTI hammer spring.  This is the third time I had problems with guns after installing light springs so I'm done with that.  I'll probably keep the trigger spring and install the recoil spring when the Sulun stock arrives.

Took my repaired SAX2 out to shoot and put about 75 rounds of various loads through it and it functioned fine. Had a few failure to extracts, not sure if it's related to ammo since other brands functioned fine, but no signs of mushrooming on the bolt carrier after it was replaced.

I will have to put more rounds through the gun without any major failures before I can treat the gun as truly reliable, but so far so good. Looks like it may very well have been an issue of a batch of soft bolt carriers that struck my particular gun.

I also took my repaired SAX2 out to shoot today too, shot about 35-40 buck and slugs, and 25 federal bulk pack loads, did not have any problems with peening of the bolt carrier, only had about 5-6 FTF during my session at range today.

so far so good, this May i will take it to shotgun class run it through it paces.

Additional Images of the pistons and the bolt are attached.

CD Bolt and piston

I have however in the process of taken these images discovered something interesting. The trigger on the DPS seems to have a mind of its own. Made a video to show what it is doing.
You will see that sometimes, I have it pulled all the way back and it wont fire, hangs for a bit and then fires on its own. I can disengage and it won't fire....for now.

And I did initially say that the benelli m4 and the CD don't feel that different, but in the video you will notice that the benelli seems to have a more "better put together" chunk when it slams forwards.



Any input would be appreciated.

P.S please ignore the vortex razor that I have mounted on the CD 601, I had it laying around and was just goofing.

I received the T4 back today and inspected the new bolt and it looked great. I fired a total of 61 rds to test it out. I fired 25rds and disassemblked it to inspect the bolt carrier. The left side of the bolt carrier looked to be ok but the right had some minor deformation. I fired 25 more rounds and it began to have issues. I fired 8 more rounds and the bolt started to bind up in the receiver. The last 3 rounds I fired the bolt stopped in the receiver. I disassembled it to inspect and the right side of the bolt carrier had deformation like the original bolt.

That looks pretty good.

The bolt looks similar to mine.  Looks like the pistons just wore off the finish like mine, no biggie.  I'd take the trigger group out and put your finger in front of the hammer and cock it and fire it a bunch and see where it's hanging up.  Make sure to push the hammer down far enough and see if it's hanging on the disconnector instead of the trigger sear without the trigger pulled.  It looks as if the hammer is hanging up on the disconnector but then slipping off the trigger sear.

I've shot about 100 rounds in mine so far, and I just took it all apart and it's extremely clean inside except the aeroshell grease I used.  On the bolt link/rod thing it doesn't look like I have any wear on the back where it contacts the buffer spring.  Makes me wonder if there's some slapping going on with the guns that were peening.  Now I need to swap the TTI hammer spring back to stock and test it again to make sure that was the cause of my light strikes.

So we have a replacement bolt gone bad.  Either the new bolt was bad too, or some of these are overgassed.

1st bolt was deformed on both sides.

CBP just got back to me about the original package from Delta Mike that was returned.  I got a tracking number 4 days ago for the new package but it still shows it's in NZ.  According to CBP soon as it says "Inbound Out of Customs" USPS has the package:

I made a video.

It seems you are right about the disconnector.




Any recommendations on how to proceed further? If I am honest, I don't necessarily understand much. Will check some YouTube videos about the trigger system. At least, I can then have a conversation without thinking "which one is the diconnector?"

I'm no trigger expert myself, I've modified a lot of parts of various guns but I never touch the triggers.  Filing my disconnector was the first time I ever dared to mess with a trigger for fear of messing it up, except for polishing triggers.  What I can say is your trigger should be releasing the hammer in that position, but it's hanging on the trigger sear, not the disconnector.  The disconnector is that piece on the trigger with the pin behind it that's spring loaded so when the hammer hits it the disconnector moves back and catches the hammer if you have the trigger pulled.  Before I said to push the hammer down far enough to see if the disconnector was a problem but in your video you only push it down far enough to catch the trigger sear, but clearly there's a problem there as it should release every time on that ledge.  Looks like you need to either file the hammer face a little or file the trigger sear face a little, either one, to make the ledge shallower.  I can't tell you which one, I'd have to do some research myself.  I'd make sure that's the issue before doing anything because that's a critical part, and if you do anything do it very slowly and check and test each couple swipes of the file.

I would be very cautious on that one because I don't understand why your trigger was releasing by itself in the other video you posted.  If the sear was catching as it should and the trigger released by itself, it might be some other issue and you'd really be goofing it up if you filed anything.  Might want to just see if they'll send you another trigger group.

Ok, I've been watching Atlantic since the SAX-2 came in stock last week.  
https://atlanticfirearms.com/products/sds-semi-auto-12-gauge-shotgun-sax2-713135218799

Wishing and hoping it'd go out of stock so I didn't have to think about it, but couldn't resisit any longer.  Just ordered one for myself.

Any leads on where to get a field stock for this?  From reading the thread, I think the field style stock from Sulun should fit this without issue?  

I put a Benelli field stock on mine. It came out very well.

What'd that run ya?  It appears they used to be around $150, and now 250 - 300 if you can find one.  The Sulun one doesn't appear much different and still in the $50 - $100 range.

Seems to be working fine now

Anyone heard from DeltaMike about the stocks being re-shipped?  Last I heard was the generic updated on 4/19 that we’d get new shipping info Jan few days.

I got an email DM on 4/20 that they reshipped it.   Saw it was picked up on 4/22, and is 'in transit with airline' as of 4/27.