User Panel
Quoted:
Mine came in. It’s pretty rusty on the barrel and tube. Missing front sling swivel, safety missing, butt pad chewed up pretty bad. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/6866799E-D795-4A76-94B5-28656F93FD21_jpe-1310858.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/10F2C955-356B-4D07-9EF3-5F1CDB55EE4D_jpe-1310859.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/EABAF802-CDC0-41CD-800B-6364F818FA1A_jpe-1310860.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/1005F221-9041-49AC-B65C-7E3BB29576D9_jpe-1310861.JPG View Quote |
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Man you guys make we want to get one now, it would go great with my 733 clone.
I wonder how much of mistake I would be making getting one these as my first shotgun |
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Mine came in. It’s pretty rusty on the barrel and tube. Missing front sling swivel, safety missing, butt pad chewed up pretty bad. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/6866799E-D795-4A76-94B5-28656F93FD21_jpe-1310858.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/10F2C955-356B-4D07-9EF3-5F1CDB55EE4D_jpe-1310859.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/EABAF802-CDC0-41CD-800B-6364F818FA1A_jpe-1310860.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66213/1005F221-9041-49AC-B65C-7E3BB29576D9_jpe-1310861.JPG View Quote The wood looks decent and very salvageable - The rust can be blasted or wire brushed off. Repark the steel and/or shoot it with a rattle can finish. Is the swivel on the front lug unique? I think that will clean up nice. Mine will be delivered Thursday - hoping it will be salvageable. |
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Quoted: How is the bore? The wood looks decent and very salvageable - The rust can be blasted or wire brushed off. Repark the steel and/or shoot it with a rattle can finish. Is the swivel on the front lug unique? I think that will clean up nice. Mine will be delivered Thursday - hoping it will be salvageable. View Quote |
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Ive tore down my second one. The trigger pack is normal looking and the hammer would fall when pulling the trigger every now and then. I sprayed it with rem oil and cant see anything wrong with it. Its cleaner than my first one. Now its not working about every twenty pulls.
Its either a broken spring somewhere or rust. The hammer had a good snap to it compared to the other one I replaced the hammer spring. Also the mag tube spring has a small kink in it. Been off at sometime and bent. Edit: Might be the sear spring. I can hold the pack upside down and hear a rattle and hammer will drop every time. I think the oil freed something up from sticking and working when it was right side up. Now its oiled it wont work in the normal level position. Upside down hammer falls normally. |
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Ive tore down my second one. The trigger pack is normal looking and the hammer would fall when pulling the trigger every now and then. I sprayed it with rem oil and cant see anything wrong with it. Its cleaner than my first one. Now its not working about every twenty pulls. Its either a broken spring somewhere or rust. The hammer had a good snap to it compared to the other one I replaced the hammer spring. Also the mag tube spring has a small kink in it. Been off at sometime and bent. Edit: Might be the sear spring. I can hold the pack upside down and hear a rattle and hammer will drop every time. I think the oil freed something up from sticking and working when it was right side up. Now its oiled it wont work in the normal level position. Upside down hammer falls normally. View Quote I had the sear pin on a 500 trigger pack fall out while trying to replace some other pin. What followed after that did verily sucketh mightily. I wish you luck. |
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Quoted: That would make sense about it being the sear spring based on what you shared. I had the sear pin on a 500 trigger pack fall out while trying to replace some other pin. What followed after that did verily sucketh mightily. I wish you luck. View Quote |
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/edited-image_zpsaejse5yq.jpg Mine arrived today. I think its good - Complete, appears functional and carried a lot (to the point of finish removal) was cleaned at some point in its past life - some repairs to fore-end. Red band of paint is thick. Safety works but is mushy and recoil pad is worn. The front swivel and screw was in the box. I'm thinking some Brownells Dark Gray Park will look good on this and replace the fore-end and recoil pad. View Quote And can you post a picture of the front screw/bolt for the swivel Thanks E3 |
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Quoted: Can you tell is the safety plastic or aluminum? And can you post a picture of the front screw/bolt for the swivel Thanks E3 View Quote The wood fore-end has a repair - some wood spanned as a bridge across the top of the forend expanding to both sides to fix a crack - decently done for what I would have expected from Malaysia. I will replace it - I found a NOS police fore-end that I will stain/dye to match the stock. I'm fairly certain the stock is Birch, but so oil soaked it looks like walnut. I'm cleaning it up a little it - is tacky with oil. Need to order a recoil pad and a safety detent. |
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/edited-image_zpsaejse5yq.jpg Mine arrived today. I think its good - Complete, appears functional and carried a lot (to the point of finish removal) was cleaned at some point in its past life - some repairs to fore-end. Red band of paint is thick. Safety works but is mushy and recoil pad is worn. The front swivel and screw was in the box. I'm thinking some Brownells Dark Gray Park will look good on this and replace the fore-end and recoil pad. View Quote |
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Got two more today.
First one in decent shape. Swivels are intact and very little red paint. Wood is in decent shape, should clean up okay. Top of safety gone.Butt pad needs to be replaced. Seems to function properly. Very little rust. Second one is rougher. Stock has been cracked and repaired and butt pad is rough. Safety completely gone. More surface rust. Swivels are in place. Seems to function okay also. A wide splotch of red paint on receiver. This is the roughest of the three. Overall, I am happy with all three. They are will be fun easy projects. |
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I decided to refinish the wood on mine...right after I got something on the stock that removed the finish.
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What would be the bayonet the Malaysian Military used with these? If any?
They seemed to have the HK33 rifle so that owuld have no compatibility bayonet wise. Curious, M7, m9 or other is correct?? or is their no correct and mount whatever I like? |
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What would be the bayonet the Malaysian Military used with these? If any? They seemed to have the HK33 rifle so that owuld have no compatibility bayonet wise. Curious, M7, m9 or other is correct?? or is their no correct and mount whatever I like? View Quote |
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I think the stocks are finished in years of oil and grime - I soaked mine in some lacquer thinner and the bucket of liquid was like mud. Still has some leaching out of the grip after drying.
If your wood turns gray from the dishwasher or just de greasing you can use wood bleach (Oxalic acid) on it and it will make it look like original wood color again. |
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I threw my first ones stock and parts except the handguard in the dishwasher. It stripped the finish right off. It was grey when it came out. I put tung oil on it and its fine. https://i.imgur.com/zu5fRCN.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I decided to refinish the wood on mine...right after I got something on the stock that removed the finish. https://i.imgur.com/zu5fRCN.jpg Instead I used a combo of the degreaser in question and acetone. I have tung oil ready to go. |
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Quoted: I debated doing that too. Instead I used a combo of the degreaser in question and acetone. I have tung oil ready to go. View Quote Remove red paint with Lacquer thinner and soak in lacquer thinner. let Dry and then since there was so much gunk still in it, I boil it in water to drive the oils that are in deep out. Dry then , wipe with some wood bleech. and let it dry. Almost done i just shot some semi-gloss poly on the butt stock. I am cleaning the fore-end in boiling water as I write this - Dang that stuff has crud deep in its pores. I will tryto save the old fore-end even though I have a NOS one on the way - I hate to let old wood die. |
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My method was - Remove red paint with Lacquer thinner and soak in lacquer thinner. let Dry and then since there was so much gunk still in it, I boil it in water to drive the oils that are in deep out. Dry then , wipe with some wood bleach. and let it dry. Almost done i just shot some semi-gloss poly on the butt stock. I am cleaning the fore-end in boiling water as I write this - Dang that stuff has crud deep in its pores. I will try to save the old fore-end even though I have a NOS one on the way - I hate to let old wood die. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: I debated doing that too. Instead I used a combo of the degreaser in question and acetone. I have tung oil ready to go. Remove red paint with Lacquer thinner and soak in lacquer thinner. let Dry and then since there was so much gunk still in it, I boil it in water to drive the oils that are in deep out. Dry then , wipe with some wood bleach. and let it dry. Almost done i just shot some semi-gloss poly on the butt stock. I am cleaning the fore-end in boiling water as I write this - Dang that stuff has crud deep in its pores. I will try to save the old fore-end even though I have a NOS one on the way - I hate to let old wood die. |
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Actually the hot water took a lot of the dings out of the stock. I didnt let it run on the drying cycle.
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Quoted: I had not thought about boiling. Is there a temperature range and/or a time limit? View Quote Generally it takes 1-2 boils at about 15 minutes for most anything I've encountered - Sometimes the wood looks clean but then let it dry or heat it and more oil will draw up from deep down. These are particularly deep with oily residue - My hunch is these stocks were issued dry and absorbed worked in linseed oil for decades but years of working in actually gives plain wood a cool look - I'm trying not to extract all of it out but enough to really bring out the grain. I was torn between refinish or leave close to as was left - Now I think I will buy a 2nd one to leave as a well used look and replace broken mechanical parts only. |
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Quoted: Not really - I got the idea from a guy that used it on Garand stocks with good luck. You don't want to do it if the wood has cracks in it - otherwise it really draws out the deep oil and removes dents. Generally it takes 1-2 boils at about 15 minutes for most anything I've encountered - Sometimes the wood looks clean but then let it dry or heat it and more oil will draw up from deep down. These are particularly deep with oily residue - My hunch is these stocks were issued dry and absorbed worked in linseed oil for decades but years of working in actually gives plain wood a cool look - I'm trying not to extract all of it out but enough to really bring out the grain. I was torn between refinish or leave close to as was left - Now I think I will buy a 2nd one to leave as a well used look and replace broken mechanical parts only. View Quote |
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Quoted: Not exactly but here is the before it was refinished - but did have some grime wiped off initially. https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/edited-image_zpsq1kgk8rc.jpg After cleaning, boiling and refinish. https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/012_zpsoiw38syu.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/012_zpsoiw38syu.jpg https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/011_zpscimu5pk6.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/011_zpscimu5pk6.jpg Fore-end not yet finished. https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/013_zpsceppxgru.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/013_zpsceppxgru.jpg View Quote |
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Well I fixed my trigger without the new parts. Spring leg had slipped off its perch. Stuck a screwdriver down in there and moved it. Works now.
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Quoted:
Well I fixed my trigger without the new parts. Spring leg had slipped off its perch. Stuck a screwdriver down in there and moved it. Works now. View Quote Always feels good when a simple fix does the job. I got to learn the hard way that to put the sear back in you had to remove a number of other parts first. Educational, but not something I want to repeat. |
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Waiting on a few replacement parts before it goes back together - Need that safety detent ball - Should be here Tuesday as well as recoil pad, and nOS fore end. Can hardly wait.
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Quoted:
Waiting on a few replacement parts before it goes back together - Need that safety detent ball - Should be here Tuesday as well as recoil pad, and nOS fore end. Can hardly wait. https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/001_zps0mzpized.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/001_zps0mzpized.jpg View Quote |
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Wow. That is the nicest metal I have seen on one yet. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Waiting on a few replacement parts before it goes back together - Need that safety detent ball - Should be here Tuesday as well as recoil pad, and nOS fore end. Can hardly wait. https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/001_zps0mzpized.jpg" target="_blank">https://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/X-ray6/001_zps0mzpized.jpg |
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Need some advice on the first one of these I have fixed up.
As many others have noted, the old plastic trigger assemblies are worn and have lost their black color - mine is a sort of dull gray. I tried rubbing some WD-40 into it but then the gray just comes back. Any idea on what would reliably restore the black color to the plastic trigger assembly? Maybe the stuff you put on automotive trim to make it black again? Second, the only part I am missing is the rear sling swivel. The screw and the mount are there, but I need the actual metal thing that the sling would go through. What should I use for this as I can't seem to find a replacement one. I'd appreciate a source for a replacement part for that sling swivel thing. Thanks for the help! David |
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Need some advice on the first one of these I have fixed up. As many others have noted, the old plastic trigger assemblies are worn and have lost their black color - mine is a sort of dull gray. I tried rubbing some WD-40 into it but then the gray just comes back. Any idea on what would reliably restore the black color to the plastic trigger assembly? Maybe the stuff you put on automotive trim to make it black again? Second, the only part I am missing is the rear sling swivel. The screw and the mount are there, but I need the actual metal thing that the sling would go through. What should I use for this as I can't seem to find a replacement one. I'd appreciate a source for a replacement part for that sling swivel thing. Thanks for the help! David View Quote As for the swivel. They are for sale around for around $6 to $8 plus shipping. GunParts Corp online has them. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/261290P |
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Need some advice on the first one of these I have fixed up. As many others have noted, the old plastic trigger assemblies are worn and have lost their black color - mine is a sort of dull gray. I tried rubbing some WD-40 into it but then the gray just comes back. Any idea on what would reliably restore the black color to the plastic trigger assembly? Maybe the stuff you put on automotive trim to make it black again? Second, the only part I am missing is the rear sling swivel. The screw and the mount are there, but I need the actual metal thing that the sling would go through. What should I use for this as I can't seem to find a replacement one. I'd appreciate a source for a replacement part for that sling swivel thing. Thanks for the help! David View Quote https://www.smokingpipes.com/accessories/pipe-supplies/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=24766 |
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I would hit that rust with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Get it off and blue it. Its not deep enough to be a safety factor.
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/147994/9C5FCE6E-DA61-4BAA-826A-06BD0B214798-1318814.jpg $400 worth of shotguns. View Quote |
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Received 2. One SUPER crusty, heavy pitting on outside of barrel. Took a brass brush to both and wiped with cold blue. Working on the rest of the parts now. The metal tube in the wood forend was corroded completely through. Thoughts on the pictured barrel? This is after a wire brush and only on the outside. https://imgdump5.novarata.net/800x941/1a1vfz.jpg https://imgdump5.novarata.net/800x941/wgq201.jpg View Quote I would sandblast it and try to get a better idea how deep the pits go and if they go deep and compromise the barrels integrity for pressure. There were guys that developed a gauge for barrel thickness for cowboy action shooters to measure barrel wall thickness changes As a few badly pitted barrels had blown in competition events. This was for non Damascus guns (e;g more modern steels) that had pitted that badly. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/147994/9C5FCE6E-DA61-4BAA-826A-06BD0B214798-1318814.jpg $400 worth of shotguns. View Quote Attached File |
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Thanks. I kick myself for not buying a wood stock ONG. This Mossberg makes the 870 look pristine when side by side.
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Found this online, looks like the same shotgun with Malaysian forces in 2015. https://i.imgur.com/n5wK1BY.jpg View Quote Oddly enough I have picked up a few Malaysian Guns over the years (C93 rifle and pistol (now SBR) Malaysian Kit builds, and a Singapore Police Webley revolver) Their loss is my gain Its nice when surplus can be revived instead of destroyed. |
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Quoted: Hope you don't mind, but that pic doesn't do them justice. Sooo. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/496445/9C5FCE6E-DA61-4BAA-826A-06BD0B214798-131-1318959.JPG View Quote |
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Thanks. Don’t know why it flipped on upload. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Hope you don't mind, but that pic doesn't do them justice. Sooo. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/496445/9C5FCE6E-DA61-4BAA-826A-06BD0B214798-131-1318959.JPG Anyone else notice how they seem to grow bayonets? I'm not done working on mine and I'll be darned if it didn't sprout one too. |
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So is the general consensus these are worth it even at this price?
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