My TRS came with an 18.5# recoil spring. I have put close to 2000 rounds through already with never a hiccup. Beautiful gun. Anyway, being concerned about the barrel lugs battering the slide stop pin on the return to battery, I decided to try a 17# recoil spring today. I noticed that the brass was ejecting in the right direction (to the right and behind me), but was now flinging it between 7-12 feet away. Also, as I would slam home a new mag and slingshot the slide to battery, it would fail to feed about every fourth mag. The round would get caught going up the barrel ramp and stop causing the slide to stop. Now my question is, could a slight change in my recoil spring cause these two issues. Those were the only "problems". Everything else went great as usual. Maybe there is a reason why Les puts 18.5# recoil springs in his TRS. He knows more than me that's for sure. Thanks for the replies.

The gun works perfectly and you start changing stuff and mess it up? Put the correct one back in. If, after 2K rounds you don't see any battering, don't worry.

More nice 1911s are ruined by changing parts then anything else. If one runs, leave it be.

Unfortunately the 1911 is the Holley carb of handguns. Keep messing with it after its working right, and you are guaranteed to fluck it up.

The manufacturer put that weight spring in for a reason, stick with it unless you are having problems that point to it as the cause.

ipsc 1911's see an easy 100k+ of life.

that 18.5 will not hurt a thing.

There's basically two springs that do the whole recoil/reload thing.

The recoil spring is just that...it chambers the next round.

The mainspring, inside the mainspring housing...that's the one that actually soaks up the bulk of recoil. Between that, the hammer strut/it's angle vis a vie the hammer, and the firing pin stop...the spring, bottom angle/radius of the firing pin stop, and position of the hammer strut really determine linger time and when the slide unlocks. Technically you can fire a 1911 sans recoil spring with no damage to the frame, provided you have an appropriate mainspring, firing pin stop, and hammer/hammer strut angle. Of course, it won't go back into battery

Changing one without changing the other is not a good idea...

As long as the gun is reliable, who cares where the brass goes? If the gun runs, I wouldn't start messing with it.